AmLactin Tops At-Home Glycolic Acid in Dermal Trials, Dray Says

Dr Dray

Retail glycolic acid only acts on the surface due to safety buffering, while clinical trials show 12% ammonium lactate thickens both the epidermis and the dermis.

AI-assisted summary of Amlactin vs. Glycolic Acid: Which Is Better for Anti-Aging? — original source. Check the original for full context.

Source published: 2026-08-31

Key ideas

In-office glycolic acid peels (20%–70%) reach the dermis to trigger collagen remodeling, but retail over-the-counter glycolic products are buffered to higher pH levels for safety, confining their activity primarily to superficial epidermal exfoliation. (1:33)
Human clinical biopsy data reveals that twice-daily application of 12% lactic acid over 16 weeks significantly increases both epidermal and dermal thickness, whereas a 5% concentration only thickens the epidermis. (5:51)
A human clinical trial demonstrated that co-applying buffered 12% ammonium lactate alongside clobetasol successfully prevented corticosteroid-induced dermal and epidermal atrophy without diminishing the steroid's anti-inflammatory efficacy. (9:34)
While 12% ammonium lactate possesses stronger clinical support for at-home dermal thickening than over-the-counter glycolic acid, broad-spectrum sun protection remains the overriding medical requirement for preventing ultraviolet-driven collagen breakdown. (19:01)

Detailed notes

## Background Published on YouTube by dermatologist Dr Dray on August 31, 2026, this video examines whether AmLactin (12% ammonium lactate) or glycolic acid is better suited for anti-aging. The video breakdown contrasts the clinical research regarding epidermal and dermal thickness, exfoliation, and collagen remodeling across professional in-office chemical peels and over-the-counter topical skincare.

## TL;DR Dr Dray compares glycolic acid and 12% ammonium lactate, demonstrating that outcomes depend heavily on formulation, pH, and whether a product is applied at home or administered clinically. While professional in-office glycolic acid peels (20%–70%) reach the dermis to stimulate collagen remodeling, retail over-the-counter glycolic products are buffered and largely limited to superficial epidermal exfoliation. In contrast, human biopsy studies show that at-home 12% ammonium lactate can increase both epidermal and dermal thickness and help counteract corticosteroid-induced atrophy. Dr Dray emphasizes that while 12% ammonium lactate has stronger clinical evidence for home dermal support than store-bought glycolic acid, broad-spectrum sun protection remains the foundational, medically necessary defense against photoaging.

## Atmosphere & style The presentation feels educational, clinical, and reassuringly grounded, driven by Dr Dray's trademark analytical skepticism toward skincare marketing hype. Her delivery is calm and methodic, breaking down complex histopathological concepts and clinical trial data into digestible practical guidance without dramatic overstatements. Rather than promoting an exhaustive routine or pitting actives against each other in an imaginary competition, the discussion maintains an empowering, evidence-based tone that manages expectations and prioritizes individual skin tolerance and foundational sun defense.

## Bulletin - [01:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=93s) In-office glycolic acid peels (20%–70%) reach the dermis to trigger collagen remodeling, but retail over-the-counter glycolic products are buffered to higher pH levels for safety, confining their activity primarily to superficial epidermal exfoliation. - [05:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=351s) Human clinical biopsy data reveals that twice-daily application of 12% lactic acid over 16 weeks significantly increases both epidermal and dermal thickness, whereas a 5% concentration only thickens the epidermis. - [09:34](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=574s) A human clinical trial demonstrated that co-applying buffered 12% ammonium lactate alongside clobetasol successfully prevented corticosteroid-induced dermal and epidermal atrophy without diminishing the steroid's anti-inflammatory efficacy. - [19:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1141s) While 12% ammonium lactate possesses stronger clinical support for at-home dermal thickening than over-the-counter glycolic acid, broad-spectrum sun protection remains the overriding medical requirement for preventing ultraviolet-driven collagen breakdown.

## Key takeaways - [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=0s) AmLactin Daily 12% Lotion utilizes buffered ammonium lactate, an alpha hydroxy acid naturally present in skin that functions as both a gentle chemical exfoliant and an effective humectant. - [01:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=93s) Glycolic acid's small molecular structure enables rapid cutaneous penetration, establishing high concentrations (20%–70%) at low pH as the clinical standard for in-office collagen remodeling chemical peels. - [04:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=248s) Over-the-counter glycolic acid products cannot replicate professional chemical peels because consumer formulas are neutralized or buffered to higher pH levels to prevent chemical burns and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. - [05:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=351s) In a 16-week human trial, twice-daily application of 12% lactic acid significantly increased both epidermal and dermal thickness, while a 5% formulation only produced epidermal thickening. - [08:28](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=508s) Topical stimulation of dermal thickness provides critical therapeutic utility for fragile, atrophic skin prone to spontaneous tears and bruising, such as on the sun-damaged dorsal hands of older adults. - [09:34](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=574s) Histopathological biopsy data demonstrated that concurrent use of 12% buffered ammonium lactate prevented clobetasol-induced cutaneous atrophy while preserving the steroid's full anti-inflammatory action. - [12:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=724s) Between at-home retail products, 12% ammonium lactate is clinically favored over OTC glycolic acid for anti-aging because it reliably demonstrates measurable improvements to dermal thickness. - [14:40](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=880s) Over-the-counter glycolic acid remains a valuable superficial intervention for smoothing skin texture, binding moisture, reducing comedones, and hastening the clearance of epidermal hyperpigmentation. - [14:40](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=880s) Higher concentrations such as AmLactin 15% should not automatically be assumed to be superior to 12%, as variations often stem from vehicle or buffering differences rather than proven clinical gains. - [16:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=993s) Very few topicals possess clinical evidence of altering the dermis; proven at-home agents are limited to retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, retinaldehyde) and stabilized pure L-ascorbic acid. - [16:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=993s) Layering multiple harsh anti-aging actives lacks evidence for enhanced dermal remodeling and frequently triggers barrier irritation and reactive post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. - [19:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1141s) Ultraviolet radiation penetrates into the dermis to upregulate collagen-degrading enzymes and suppress cutaneous immune repair, making daily sun protection the foundational defense against photoaging. - [20:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1200s) Skincare ingredients do not exist on a competitive hierarchy ('gold, silver, and bronze'), as wide biological variation among individuals means product choice must be guided by personal skin tolerability. - [21:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1278s) AmLactin lotion can be applied to facial skin if tolerated and may be paired alongside topical retinoids to target dermal aging through complementary mechanisms.

## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=0s) Introduction: AmLactin vs. Glycolic Acid for Anti-Aging

A frequent question in dermatology is whether AmLactin or glycolic acid is better for anti-aging. Both ingredients belong to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) class, which is widely recognized for smoothing the skin's surface, chemical exfoliation, refining rough texture, and fading hyperpigmentation. However, when evaluating them specifically for anti-aging outcomes, crucial nuances emerge. The answer fundamentally hinges on ingredient concentration, product formulation, and setting—specifically, whether a product is applied at home or administered in a clinical office setting.

Dr. Dray clarifies terminology from the outset: AmLactin is an over-the-counter skincare brand offering multiple moisturizers, not a single standalone active ingredient. The focal point of this comparison is 12% ammonium lactate—found in AmLactin Daily 12% Lotion—evaluated against glycolic acid. Ammonium lactate represents a buffered form of lactic acid, an AHA naturally found in human skin that functions both as a gentle exfoliant and as an effective humectant to enhance moisture retention.

- Both lactic acid and glycolic acid function as exfoliating and humectant AHAs. - AmLactin Daily 12% utilizes buffered ammonium lactate rather than raw, unbuffered lactic acid. - Outcome comparisons depend strictly on concentration, vehicle, pH, and the environment of application.

[01:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=93s) Molecular Size and In-Office Glycolic Acid Peels

The primary chemical distinction between glycolic acid and lactic acid is molecular structure. Glycolic acid possesses a smaller molecular size than lactic acid, allowing it to penetrate skin layers far more rapidly and readily. This rapid penetration makes glycolic acid an exceptional active ingredient when high, biologically meaningful concentrations need to reach deep cutaneous targets. Consequently, dermatologists routinely use glycolic acid as the standard agent for in-office chemical peels designed to treat photodamage and visible aging.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Glycolic Acid In-Office vs At-Home Skincare accDescr: Flowchart contrasting the delivery, concentration, depth of action, and clinical effects of professional in-office peels versus at-home formulations.

subgraph Office["In-Office Dermatologist Peels"] A["Glycolic Acid (20%–70%)"] --> B["Low pH / Unbuffered Vehicle"] B --> C["Deep Penetration into Dermis"] C --> D["Collagen Remodeling & Wrinkle Reduction"] end

subgraph Home["At-Home Retail Skincare"] E["Glycolic Acid (OTC)"] --> F["Higher pH / Partially Buffered"] F --> G["Action Limited to Epidermis"] G --> H["Surface Smoothing & Hydration"] end ```

In-office peel formulations differ drastically from anything sold on retail shelves. Dermatologists utilize concentrated glycolic acid solutions ranging from 20% up to 70%, formulated at a very low pH with specialized delivery vehicles that facilitate aggressive penetration. This creates an intentional therapeutic window that carries a real risk of chemical burning if not carefully administered. When performed properly, extensive clinical and histologic (biopsy-proven) evidence demonstrates that high-strength glycolic peels induce true dermal remodeling, stimulate new collagen production, improve skin firmness and elasticity, and visibly diminish wrinkles. Between lactic acid and glycolic acid for an in-office peel, "without a doubt, it's going to be glycolic acid."

- High-strength in-office glycolic acid peels range from 20% to 70% concentration. - Peel efficacy depends on the percentage, low pH, vehicle formulation, and carefully controlled contact time. - Histologically verified benefits of professional peels include dermal collagen remodeling and structural tightening.

[04:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=248s) The Reality of At-Home Glycolic Acid Skincare

The clinical evidence supporting high-potency professional peels cannot simply be extrapolated to consumer products bought in stores. Over-the-counter glycolic acid serums and creams represent an entirely different biological exposure. Because high concentrations and low pH levels present major risks of severe skin irritation, chemical burns, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—particularly in deeper skin tones—consumer formulations are intentionally partially neutralized or buffered to a higher, safer pH.

While buffering ensures safety for unsupervised daily use, it fundamentally limits the depth of penetration. Consequently, retail glycolic acid products work almost exclusively at the superficial epidermal level. They deliver noticeable benefits: smoothing rough surface texture, boosting hydration, providing a subtle plumping and firming look, and accelerating the clearance of epidermal pigmentation. However, retail-grade glycolic acid does not reach the dermis to trigger the deep structural collagen remodeling achieved by in-office chemical procedures.

- Over-the-counter glycolic products are buffered or neutralized to higher pH levels for home safety. - Low pH coupled with high AHA strength poses severe risks of burns and pigmentary complications in darker skin phenotypes. - Consumer glycolic formulations excel at epidermal exfoliation and hydration, but do not reproduce clinical dermal remodeling.

[05:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=351s) Clinical Evidence for 12% Ammonium Lactate and Dermal Thickness

Because over-the-counter glycolic acid remains primarily superficial, 12% ammonium lactate (AmLactin 12% Lotion) stands out due to clinical trial data assessing at-home, user-applied regimens. In a highlighted clinical study, researchers compared the effects of 5% versus 12% lactic acid formulations applied to the face twice daily over 16 weeks (specifically avoiding the sensitive eyelid area, where AHAs cause dryness and irritation), evaluating subjects at intervals of 4, 8, 12, and 16 weeks.

The trial's skin biopsy analyses revealed a critical divergence between the two concentrations. The 5% formulation increased the thickness of the epidermis, which counteracts the epidermal thinning typical of intrinsic aging and photoaging. The 12% concentration, however, significantly increased the thickness of both the epidermis and the dermis. This finding is notable for a safe, accessible topical product, demonstrating that 12% ammonium lactate can influence deeper dermal architecture—the layer composed of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans that degrades over time.

[08:28](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=508s) Beyond Cosmetics: Treating Fragile, Atrophic Skin

The ability to build dermal thickness carries medical implications that extend far beyond cosmetic wrinkle reduction. Chronic sun exposure and intrinsic aging cause progressive skin atrophy. On vulnerable, highly sun-exposed areas like the dorsal hands, this dermal and epidermal thinning leaves the tissue frail, paper-thin, prone to spontaneous skin tears, easily bruised (senile purpura), and impaired in its wound-healing capacity.

An accessible, cost-effective formulation capable of stimulating both epidermal and dermal thickening offers therapeutic utility for older adults facing severe skin fragility. Nonetheless, Dr. Dray emphasizes the importance of managing expectations: while biopsy data proves tangible structural changes, consumers must be realistic. Applying 12% ammonium lactate will not cause someone to "wake up looking 30 years younger" or entirely erase deep wrinkles, but it offers documented, modest improvements from a safe at-home moisturizer.

- Dermal structural integrity relies on collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. - Sun-damaged skin on the backs of the hands suffers from thinning, frequent tearing, ecchymosis, and poor healing. - 12% ammonium lactate serves as an affordable, non-prescription intervention to strengthen fragile, atrophic cutaneous tissue.

[09:34](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=574s) AmLactin and Steroid-Induced Skin Atrophy

Dr. Dray highlights a compelling human clinical study examining buffered 12% ammonium lactate lotion and its ability to counteract a common dermatological problem: long-term corticosteroid-induced dermal atrophy. Potent topical steroids, such as clobetasol, are considered clinical game-changers for managing inflammatory skin conditions, but prolonged use carries the notorious adverse risk of causing dermal and epidermal thinning, often leading to irreversible stretch marks in the treated areas. In this trial, researchers investigated whether co-applying 12% ammonium lactate lotion alongside clobetasol could mitigate or prevent that structural thinning.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Co-Application of Ammonium Lactate and Clobetasol accDescr: Diagram illustrating how 12 percent ammonium lactate counters clobetasol side effects without blunting anti-inflammatory efficacy.

subgraph Treatment["Concurrent Topical Regimen"] A["Potent Steroid: Clobetasol"] B["12% Buffered Ammonium Lactate"] end

subgraph Effects["Clinical and Histological Outcomes"] C["Anti-inflammatory Efficacy Maintained"] D["Epidermal & Dermal Thinning Prevented"] end

A --> C A -.->|"Risk of Atrophy"| D B ==>|"Offsets Dermal/Epidermal Thinning"| D ```

The histopathological findings—backed by physical biopsies demonstrating objective tissue changes—showed that the concurrent use of 12% buffered ammonium lactate successfully spared both the epidermis and the dermis from atrophy. Crucially, researchers addressed a frequent patient worry about whether combining actives might cancel one another out: tests evaluating anti-inflammatory markers confirmed the steroid remained fully active. The ammonium lactate offset the structural side effects without interfering with the medication's therapeutic mechanism of action. While Dr. Dray clarifies that this study is not an explicit mandate that everyone must use 12% ammonium lactate as an anti-aging remedy, it provides robust human tissue evidence that the formula triggers measurable structural changes extending well into the dermis.

[12:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=724s) Is AmLactin 12% Better Than Glycolic Acid?

When addressing the central question—is AmLactin 12% better than glycolic acid?—Dr. Dray insists the verdict depends entirely on the context. If comparing products designed for safe, over-the-counter home use, the scientific evidence favors 12% ammonium lactate over at-home glycolic acid, because 12% ammonium lactate reliably improves both epidermal and dermal thickness. Commercial at-home glycolic acid formulations are simply not engineered to yield the profound dermal collagen remodeling observed in high-strength, in-office chemical peels. However, Dr. Dray emphasizes that at-home 12% ammonium lactate is by no means stronger or more potent than a professional, dermatologist-administered glycolic peel.

This distinction highlights a broader lesson in analyzing skincare claims. Consumers frequently search for a simple "what's better, this or that," but that framing is an oversimplification. Evaluating an active requires assessing its concentration, delivery system, buffering, vehicle pH, and whether it is an unsupervised home product or a clinical intervention. If consumers read a dermatology textbook describing glycolic acid’s small molecular size and potent collagen-stimulating capacity, they often fall into the trap of falsely concluding that their store-bought glycolic acid toner will outshine AmLactin for deep wrinkle reduction.

[14:40](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=880s) The Realistic Value of At-Home Glycolic Acid

Choosing 12% ammonium lactate for dermal effects does not make an at-home glycolic acid serum or toner a waste of time. At-home glycolic acid remains a stellar superficial exfoliant that delivers genuine surface-level perks:

- **Surface Smoothing & Enhanced Penetration:** By sloughing away dead surface cells, it refines texture and can facilitate the penetration of subsequent skincare steps. - **Humectant Hydration:** Glycolic acid naturally binds water to boost epidermal moisture, which supports healthy cellular turnover. - **Accelerated Pigment Clearance:** Hastened epidermal turnover helps shed localized, unwanted hyperpigmentation. - **Comedone Reduction:** Enhancing keratinocyte maturation and clearing out cohesive follicular debris cuts down on pore-clogging comedo formation in acne-prone skin.

Dr. Dray cautions consumers against conflating these superficial exfoliation benefits with the deep dermal remodeling produced by in-office chemical peels. Even when home formulas feature numbers as high as 20%, they are heavily buffered for consumer safety, meaning their activity stays predominantly confined to the skin's surface.

Addressing related formulations, Dr. Dray briefly mentions AmLactin’s 15% lotion. She cautions against assuming 15% is automatically superior to 12%; the higher stated percentage likely reflects vehicle or buffering differences rather than a clinically proven boost in dermal remodeling, especially since the two strengths have not gone head-to-head in trials. The key takeaway remains that 12% ammonium lactate possesses distinct, human-proven dermal benefits that ordinary store-bought glycolic acid cannot match.

[16:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=993s) The Short List of Proven At-Home Dermal Actives

Putting both acids in perspective, Dr. Dray notes that neither ingredient is the solitary cure for aging skin, largely because very few over-the-counter topicals can meaningfully alter the dermis. The short roster of scientifically backed ingredients capable of operating below the surface includes:

- **The Vitamin A Family (Retinoids):** Cosmetic over-the-counter options like retinol and retinaldehyde are converted by skin enzymes into active retinoic acid. Although that enzymatic conversion takes time, long-term use improves collagen production and softens wrinkles. Prescription tretinoin is the gold standard and holds formal FDA approval for treating photodamage. - **Targeted Acne Retinoids:** Adapalene 0.1% gel (available over the counter in the United States) as well as prescription strengths (adapalene 0.3%) and alternative topical retinoids like tazarotene and trifarotene all possess clinical evidence demonstrating collagen stimulation. - **L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C):** Ascorbic acid can reach the dermis to influence dermal thickness and collagen, but cosmetic derivatives do not share this evidence and remain largely superficial. Pure ascorbic acid remains notoriously tricky to formulate because it is difficult to keep stable and challenging to transport across the skin barrier.

Dr. Dray pushes back against the trend of stacking multiple harsh anti-aging actives together in a single routine. Layering numerous products has never been objectively proven to yield superior dermal remodeling, but it frequently triggers irritation and barrier impairment, ultimately sparking reactive hyperpigmentation. Given the limited number of ingredients that truly work beneath the skin's surface, a focused routine built around proven actives is far more dependable than chasing unverified combinations.

[19:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1141s) The Foundational Role of Sun Protection in Preventing Dermal Thinning

Dr. Dray emphasizes that overriding every topical active ingredient discussed is rigorous sun protection. Applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen, wearing sun-protective clothing, and actively adjusting everyday behaviors around sun exposure make a massive difference that reaches far deeper than the superficial stratum corneum. Ultraviolet rays penetrate deep into the dermis, where they upregulate destructive enzymes that break down and degrade structural collagen. At the same time, UV radiation suppresses the cutaneous immune system's intrinsic ability to step in and repair tissue damage.

This deep damage directly accelerates age-related dermal atrophy, a process made significantly worse over time through cumulative, chronic ultraviolet exposure. A prime example of this vulnerability is the backs of the hands—an area of naturally delicate, thin skin that is continually exposed to the elements and prone to severe thinning and wrinkling. Protecting sun-exposed territories and strictly avoiding intentional tanning behaviors is non-negotiable for anyone serious about preserving dermal structural integrity.

- Broad-spectrum sunscreen and UV-protective clothing guard against deep dermal penetration. - Ultraviolet radiation triggers enzymatic degradation of structural collagen while suppressing immune-mediated repair mechanisms. - The backs of the hands represent a particularly high-risk zone for accelerated photoaging and dermal atrophy due to their naturally delicate skin and frequent, unshielded sun exposure.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: UV Radiation and Dermal Atrophy accDescr: Flowchart illustrating how ultraviolet radiation causes dermal collagen degradation and atrophy. subgraph UV_Impact["Ultraviolet Radiation Damage"] A["Deep UV Penetration"] --> B["Upregulates Collagen-Degrading Enzymes"] A --> C["Suppresses Cutaneous Immune Repair"] end subgraph Outcome["Clinical Consequence"] B --> D["Accelerated Dermal Atrophy"] C --> D D --> E["Severe Thinning (e.g., Backs of the Hands)"] end ```

[20:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1200s) The Bottom Line: Realistic Expectations and Individual Tolerability

When summarizing at-home options specifically aimed at improving dermal thickness, Dr. Dray states that AmLactin 12% lotion offers genuine confidence, holding "a fighting chance of doing something above and beyond just improving the surface of the skin." However, surface improvements are nothing to dismiss; increasing epidermal thickness and refining superficial texture remain valuable dermatological goals in their own right. At the same time, practical tolerability dictates success: individuals with highly reactive or sensitive skin may struggle to tolerate 12% ammonium lactate or strong topical retinoids, meaning those options simply will not suit every routine.

Dr. Dray cautions viewers against falling into the trap of product hierarchy, reminding everyone that "skincare ingredients are not in some sort of Olympics. There's not a gold, silver, and bronze for anti-aging." While consumers naturally gravitate toward whatever appears most potent, robust, or clinically supported, human skin exhibits immense biological heterogeneity. People vary widely in how their skin responds to specific actives, and aside from daily sun protection—which is medically necessary for long-term health and disease prevention—anti-aging skincare choices remain purely personal. For those wanting evidence-backed routines, the scientific support primarily points toward 12% ammonium lactate for home use or in-office professional glycolic acid peels.

- 12% ammonium lactate demonstrates verifiable potential for both dermal and epidermal thickening, but personal tolerability must dictate its use. - Skincare ingredients should not be treated as a competitive hierarchy ("gold, silver, and bronze") because patient skin types and tolerances vary widely. - Sun protection remains the only medically mandatory step for long-term skin health, making all other anti-aging interventions optional personal choices.

[21:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1278s) Practical Application Tips and Video Wrap-Up

Concluding the discussion, Dr. Dray clarifies a common point of confusion: AmLactin lotion can indeed be applied to the facial skin, provided that an individual's skin tolerates the formulation without excessive irritation. She directs viewers to an end-screen video detailing exact application techniques for AmLactin, including step-by-step guidance on how to safely pair 12% ammonium lactate alongside topical retinoids for those looking to combine two complementary, dermis-targeting anti-aging powerhouses.

She wraps up by thanking viewers for tuning in, encouraging them to like and share the video with friends, and delivers her signature sign-off reminding everyone not to forget their sunscreen before saying goodbye until tomorrow.

## Notable quotes > [01:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=93s) without a doubt, it's going to be glycolic acid. — Dr. Dray

> [08:28](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=508s) wake up looking 30 years younger — Dr. Dray

> [12:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=724s) what's better, this or that — Dr. Dray

> [20:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1200s) a fighting chance of doing something above and beyond just improving the surface of the skin. — Dr. Dray

> [20:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE&t=1200s) skincare ingredients are not in some sort of Olympics. There's not a gold, silver, and bronze for anti-aging. — Dr. Dray

## Mentioned Dr. Dray, AmLactin, AmLactin Daily 12% Lotion, AmLactin 15% Lotion, Glycolic acid, Ammonium lactate, Lactic acid, Clobetasol, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin, Adapalene, Tazarotene, Trifarotene, L-Ascorbic acid, Vitamin C

## Video description Is AmLactin or glycolic acid better for anti-aging? Dermatologist Dr. Dray breaks down the science behind these two popular alpha hydroxy acids and explains why the answer depends on the concentration, formulation, pH, and whether the product is being used at home or as an in-office chemical peel.

In this video, Dr. Dray compares 12% ammonium lactate, such as AmLactin Daily 12% Lotion, with glycolic acid specifically for anti-aging. She explains what the clinical research shows about epidermal and dermal thickness, collagen-related changes, exfoliation, skin texture, and the important differences between professional glycolic acid peels and over-the-counter glycolic acid skincare products.

She also discusses human clinical studies suggesting that 12% ammonium lactate may provide benefits beyond superficial exfoliation, including effects on both the epidermis and dermis. Dr. Dray explains why this makes 12% ammonium lactate an interesting option for an at-home anti-aging skincare routine.

In this video:

00:00 Introduction 00:59 What are AmLactin and glycolic acid? 03:13 Why glycolic acid is popular for chemical peels 05:51 What about 12% ammonium lactate at home? 07:50 Why does dermal thickness matter? 09:36 AmLactin and steroid-induced skin atrophy 12:04 Is AmLactin better than glycolic acid? 12:54 The problem with comparing skincare ingredients 14:40 What about glycolic acid at home? 16:33 Other anti-aging ingredients to consider 19:59 The bottom line

AmLactin vs. Glycolic Acid for Anti-Aging

Glycolic acid has a smaller molecular size than lactic acid and can penetrate the skin efficiently. At high concentrations used in professional chemical peels, glycolic acid can produce significant exfoliation and dermal remodeling.

However, those high-strength glycolic acid peels should not be confused with typical over-the-counter glycolic acid serums and lotions. Concentration, pH, formulation, and contact time all influence how an AHA behaves in the skin.

For at-home skincare, 12% ammonium lactate has particularly interesting human clinical evidence. Research has demonstrated changes in epidermal and dermal thickness with 12% lactic acid, while another human study found that 12% ammonium lactate helped spare against corticosteroid-induced atrophy in both the epidermis and dermis.

That does not mean AmLactin is equivalent to a professional glycolic acid peel, or that it will dramatically reverse wrinkles. However, the research suggests that 12% ammonium lactate may have effects that extend beyond simple surface exfoliation.

Dr. Dray also discusses other evidence-based anti-aging ingredients, including retinoids, tretinoin, retinaldehyde, retinol, adapalene, and topical vitamin C, as well as the importance of daily sun protection for preventing photoaging.

Products Mentioned

Amlactin Daily 12% Lotion https://amzlink.to/az0r9ArzAFr9W Glycolic acid products I recommend: https://amzlink.to/az09Ts3KSZ2YV

This video is for educational purposes and does not replace individualized medical advice from a dermatologist or other qualified healthcare professional.

#AmLactin #GlycolicAcid #AntiAgingSkincare #LacticAcid #Skincare #Dermatologist #AHA #Photoaging #SkincareRoutine #AntiAging

FTC: This video is not sponsored. Links are commissionable, meaning I may earn commission from purchases made through links.

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Disclaimer: This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this Youtube channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this Youtube channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.

[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnlFKtIQSNE)

中文简报

Dray表示：在真皮临床试验中，AmLactin效果优于家用甘醇酸由于安全性缓冲处理，市售甘醇酸仅作用于表皮表面，而临床试验显示12%乳酸铵可使表皮和真皮同时增厚。 Dr Dray对比了甘醇酸与12%乳酸铵，表明护肤效果在很大程度上取决于配方、pH值以及产品是居家使用还是由诊所专业施用。虽然专业诊所的甘醇酸换肤（浓度为20%–70%）能够触达真皮层以刺激胶原蛋白重塑，但市售非处方甘醇酸产品经过缓冲处理，作用基本局限于浅表表皮去角质。相比之下，人体活检研究显示，居家使用12%乳酸铵能够增加表皮和真皮的厚度，并有助于对抗皮质类固醇引起的皮肤萎缩。Dr Dray强调，尽管12%乳酸铵在居家真皮支持方面的临床证据强于市售甘醇酸，但广谱防晒依然是抵御光老化的最基础、最具医疗必要性的防线。诊所专业甘醇酸换肤（20%–70%）可深入真皮层诱导胶原蛋白重塑，但市售非处方甘醇酸产品出于安全考虑被缓冲至较高pH值，其作用主要局限于表皮浅层去角质。 (1:33) 人体临床活检数据表明，每日涂抹两次12%乳酸持续16周，可显著增加表皮和真皮的厚度，而5%的浓度仅能使表皮增厚。 (5:51) 一项人体临床试验证明，在涂抹氯倍他索的同时联合使用经缓冲的12%乳酸铵，成功预防了皮质类固醇引起的真皮和表皮萎缩，且未降低类固醇的抗炎疗效。 (9:34) 尽管12%乳酸铵在家用真皮增厚方面比非处方甘醇酸拥有更强有力的临床支持，但广谱防晒依然是防止紫外线诱导胶原蛋白分解的首要医疗要求。 (19:01)

Reading summary

Dr. Dray explains that choosing between AmLactin and glycolic acid for anti-aging depends entirely on product formulation and clinical setting. While high-strength in-office glycolic acid peels remain superior for deep collagen remodeling, over-the-counter 12% ammonium lactate offers distinct, biopsy-proven dermal thickening that retail glycolic acid formulations cannot replicate. In-Office Glycolic Peels Versus Store-Bought Formulations (1:33) Glycolic acid possesses a smaller molecular structure than lactic acid, allowing rapid penetration into cutaneous layers. In clinical settings, dermatologists administer high-strength peels ranging from 20% to 70% at a low pH in unbuffered delivery vehicles. Histologic and biopsy evidence confirms that these controlled professional treatments penetrate deeply to trigger dermal collagen remodeling, improve elasticity, and reduce wrinkles. In contrast, retail over-the-counter glycolic serums and creams are intentionally partially neutralized or buffered to higher pH levels to prevent chemical burns and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This required safety buffering restricts their activity to the superficial epidermis. Retail glycolic acid effectively exfoliates surface debris, boosts hydration, improves rough texture, and accelerates epidermal pigment clearance, but it cannot duplicate the deep dermal restructuring achieved by in-office clinical procedures. Biopsy Evidence for 12% Ammonium Lactate (5:51) Because retail glycolic acid remains largely superficial, 12% ammonium lactate—found in AmLactin Daily 12% Lotion—stands out due to clinical trial data assessing unsupervised home use. In a 16-week study comparing twice-daily facial applications, 5% lactic acid increased only epidermal thickness, whereas 12% lactic acid significantly increased the thickness of both the epidermis and the dermis, where structural collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans reside. Further human histopathological research examined 12% buffered ammonium lactate applied alongside clobetasol, a potent corticosteroid known to cause severe skin thinning and stretch marks. Biopsies proved that concurrent ammonium lactate application successfully protected both the epidermis and dermis against steroid-induced atrophy. Crucially, inflammatory marker evaluations confirmed that the active offset structural thinning without compromising the corticosteroid's therapeutic efficacy. Therapeutic Utility for Fragile, Atrophic Skin (8:28) The capacity of 12% ammonium lactate to enhance dermal thickness extends beyond cosmetic fine lines to medical applications for fragile, aging skin. Intrinsic aging and cumulative sun exposure induce cutaneous atrophy, leaving high-exposure areas like the dorsal hands prone to senile purpura, spontaneous skin tears, and slow wound healing. Non-prescription 12% ammonium lactate serves as an affordable option to reinforce this thinning tissue, though Dr. Dray cautions consumers to expect modest structural improvements rather than the total erasure of deep wrinkles. Proven Dermal Actives and Foundational Sun Protection (16:33) Very few non-prescription topicals demonstrate proven capacity to alter the dermis. The narrow roster includes retinoids—such as over-the-counter retinol, retinaldehyde, and adapalene 0.1%, alongside prescription tretinoin—and stabilized pure L-ascorbic acid. Dr. Dray advises against stacking multiple harsh anti-aging topicals, noting that product layering lacks evidence of superior remodeling and frequently provokes barrier damage and reactive pigmentation. Overriding all topical interventions is rigorous broad-spectrum sun protection. Ultraviolet radiation penetrates deep into the dermis, where it upregulates enzymes that destroy structural collagen while blunting natural immune repair mechanisms. Shielding exposed areas, especially vulnerable zones like the backs of the hands, is the foundational step required to halt progressive dermal atrophy. Dr. Dray emphasizes that anti-aging skincare should not be viewed as an Olympic hierarchy of superior ingredients. While 12% ammonium lactate has the strongest at-home evidence for building dermal thickness, its use must be guided by individual skin tolerance, and retail glycolic acid remains a valid choice for surface exfoliation. Apart from medically necessary daily sun protection, selecting topical anti-aging interventions remains an individualized decision.

Source quotes

[1:33] Dr. Dray: without a doubt, it's going to be glycolic acid. [8:28] Dr. Dray: wake up looking 30 years younger [12:04] Dr. Dray: what's better, this or that [20:00] Dr. Dray: a fighting chance of doing something above and beyond just improving the surface of the skin. [20:00] Dr. Dray: skincare ingredients are not in some sort of Olympics. There's not a gold, silver, and bronze for anti-aging.

Original transcript

[0:00] Well, hey guys. Welcome back. If you're [0:01] new here, I'm Dr. Dray. I'm a [0:02] board-certified dermatologist. In this [0:05] video, we're going to talk about a [0:06] question that comes up a lot. AmLactin [0:08] versus glycolic acid for anti-aging. [0:10] Which one is better? Both AmLactin and [0:13] glycolic acid are alpha hydroxy acids, [0:15] otherwise known as AHAs. AHAs are a [0:18] class of ingredients that can smooth the [0:20] skin surface, exfoliate, improve rough [0:23] skin texture. It can even lighten [0:25] unwanted hyperpigmentation. But, when [0:28] we're talking specifically about [0:30] anti-aging, there's a key distinction [0:32] between AmLactin lotion and glycolic [0:35] acid. The answer depends a lot on the [0:38] concentration, the formulation, the [0:40] setting. Are we talking about at-home [0:42] use or in the office? And in this video, [0:44] I'm specifically going to be comparing [0:46] 12% ammonium lactate, which is AmLactin [0:50] 12% lotion, with glycolic acid. And [0:53] we're going to focus specifically on [0:54] what we know about the effects these two [0:57] ingredients have on the skin. To [0:59] clarify, when I say AmLactin, that's a [1:02] skin care brand. It's not a specific [1:04] product, and they're a brand that has, [1:06] well, a variety of lotions. I'm [1:08] specifically talking about 12% ammonium [1:11] lactate, down in AmLactin daily 12%. [1:14] Ammonium lactate is a buffered form of [1:16] lactic acid. Lactic acid is an alpha [1:18] hydroxy acid naturally found in your [1:20] skin, but also utilized topically to [1:22] gently exfoliate the skin and to improve [1:24] moisture retention. It acts as a [1:26] humectant. Glycolic acid also does these [1:29] things, and likewise is an alpha hydroxy [1:31] acid. The major difference between the [1:33] two is their overall structure. Glycolic [1:35] acid has a smaller molecular size [1:37] compared to lactic acid. That smaller [1:39] size allows glycolic acid to penetrate [1:41] the skin more readily compared to lactic [1:44] acid, which can be an asset when trying [1:46] to get an ingredient into the skin at a [1:48] very high and meaningful concentration, [1:50] which is one of the reasons why glycolic [1:52] acid has become such a popular [1:53] ingredient in in-office chemical peels [1:56] that a dermatologist might offer you to [1:58] treat certain skin disorders or to [2:00] improve the look of aging skin. But when [2:02] we speak of glycolic acid, something [2:04] that's very important for you to [2:05] understand is that the glycolic acid [2:07] that is used in office for chemical [2:09] peels is very different than what is [2:11] available to you for the safe at-home [2:14] use in skin care products. That [2:16] distinction matters because it really [2:18] changes how you approach this question [2:20] with regards to AmLactin 12% lotion [2:23] versus glycolic acid for aging skin. [2:25] Because when glycolic is used in office [2:28] by a dermatologist for a chemical peel, [2:30] the formulations and the concentrations [2:33] are very, very strong. Much stronger [2:35] than what you would get in a product you [2:36] can buy in the store. Not only are we [2:38] talking higher percentage strengths [2:40] ranging from 20 to 70% for in-office [2:43] peels, but the overall formulation of [2:45] the peel reagent in comparison to the [2:48] stuff that you buy in the store. Because [2:50] other things factor in here as far as [2:53] the strength, the penetration of [2:55] glycolic acid. In-office peels, the pH [2:58] and the overall delivery system, the [3:00] vehicle, is such to allow really, [3:02] really, really high levels of [3:04] penetration into the skin that introduce [3:07] a window of potential to actually burn [3:10] the skin and harm the skin if not [3:12] properly administered. As far as [3:14] in-office glycolic acid peels done by a [3:16] dermatologist, there is ample clinical [3:19] research-backed and histalogic, meaning [3:21] biopsy-proven, benefits for the use of [3:24] in-office glycolic acid peels not only [3:27] for improving the appearance of aging [3:29] skin at the surface, but for actually [3:31] getting in there and improving the [3:33] deeper layers of the skin including an [3:35] improvement in collagen production which [3:37] ultimately helps to improve the look of [3:38] wrinkles. In-office glycolic acid peels [3:41] can yield dermal collagen remodeling [3:43] effects that firm, tighten, and smooth [3:46] the skin and can dramatically alter the [3:49] appearance of the skin in areas where [3:51] you've gotten a lot of sun damage. So, [3:53] if someone were to ask me, I'm going to [3:54] a dermatologist for an in-office [3:56] chemical peel, what's going to be [3:58] better, glycolic acid or lactic acid, [4:01] aka ammonium lactate in the case of the [4:03] buffered stuff? Without a doubt, it's [4:04] going to be glycolic acid, without a [4:07] doubt. However, we can't take the [4:09] evidence for the 20 to 70% strength [4:12] glycolic acid formulations that are used [4:14] in office and apply those outcomes to [4:17] the stuff that you buy in the store with [4:18] glycolic acid. It's completely different [4:20] exposure. Because the ability of [4:22] glycolic acid to invoke these biological [4:24] responses depends on how well it can [4:26] penetrate and how deeply it penetrates [4:28] into the skin. This depends on not only [4:30] the percentage of glycolic acid, but the [4:33] overall formulation, especially the [4:35] vehicle, the delivery system, and its [4:37] pH, as well as its contact time with the [4:40] skin. Like all alpha hydroxy acids, [4:42] glycolic acid certainly can be [4:44] irritating. That irritation can lead to [4:46] unwanted pigmentation in deeper skin [4:48] tones and can even burn the skin if not [4:50] carefully administered. These effects [4:52] and risks are much greater when the [4:54] glycolic acid concentration is high and [4:56] the pH is low. In contrast, the glycolic [4:59] acid skin care products that you buy and [5:02] are safe to use at home, they're either [5:04] partially neutralized or buffered to a [5:06] higher pH, and these modifications allow [5:09] for them to be safely used at home, but [5:11] the benefits of the ingredient are now [5:13] mostly going to be happening at the [5:14] surface of the skin. And that's nothing [5:16] to balk at. At-home products can improve [5:19] the surface smoothness of the skin, can [5:21] help with moisture retention, plumping, [5:23] and offering a very subtle surface [5:25] firming effect to the skin, and can also [5:28] help to hasten the clearance of unwanted [5:30] pigmentation that is existing up higher [5:33] in the top parts of the skin, the [5:34] epidermis. But, these products that you [5:37] buy and use safely at home, they're not [5:39] going to be strong enough to get to the [5:42] level where they can actually impart the [5:44] dermal remodeling effects that you would [5:46] get with the stronger stuff that is [5:48] administered by a dermatologist in [5:51] office. So, here in comes 12% ammonium [5:54] lactate in the AmLactin 12% lotion. This [5:57] is something that stands out to me as [5:59] noteworthy because there are actual [6:00] clinical studies that show that at-home [6:03] topical preparation, user-applied, in [6:06] other words, like you applying it [6:07] yourself, of buffered ammonium lactate [6:10] formulations can yield some pretty [6:13] interesting dermal effects. As I said at [6:15] the beginning of the video, AmLactin is [6:17] just a brand, and they have a few [6:18] different lotions. They also have a 5% [6:21] AmLactin lotion. So, why am I drawing [6:23] your attention to that? Because in one [6:25] study, subjects applied either a 5% or a [6:28] 12% lactic acid solution. They applied [6:31] it to the face twice a day, avoiding the [6:33] eyelids, where these ingredients, as a [6:35] side note, can be pretty drying and [6:37] irritating to delicate eyelid skin. They [6:39] were followed for 16 weeks, but they [6:40] were evaluated at 4, 8, 12, and 16 [6:44] weeks. And researchers examined changes [6:46] in skin thickness. So, we're not just [6:48] talking about skin smoothness, the skin [6:50] looking brighter, improvement in rough [6:52] texture at the surface of the skin. And [6:54] here's where the two percentages of [6:56] lactic acid differed. 5% lactic acid [6:59] improved thickness of the epidermis. [7:02] That's the top part of your skin. And [7:04] that's a great change to have noted, not [7:06] just um you know, by rubbing the skin or [7:08] looking at it, but rather the biopsy [7:11] showed that the epidermis was getting [7:12] thicker. The reason that's good is that [7:15] with aging and sun damage, we get [7:17] atrophy of the epidermis. However, with [7:19] aging and sun damage, we also get, well, [7:22] dermal atrophy as well, loss of collagen [7:25] in the deeper layers of the skin. That's [7:26] part of what leads to to uh wrinkles. [7:28] And what was interesting is that the 12% [7:31] group not only showed that improvement [7:32] in thickness of the epidermis, but also [7:34] the dermis as well, which is one of the [7:37] reasons why I think 12% ammonium lactate [7:40] in AmLactin 12% lotion is worth looking [7:43] at for a product that you can safely use [7:46] at home that might meaningfully improve [7:48] the thickness of the deeper layers of [7:49] the skin. Because when it comes to [7:51] improving the visible signs of skin [7:53] aging, it's not all localized to the [7:55] epidermis. With intrinsic and extrinsic [7:59] aging, we see changes to both the [8:01] epidermis and the dermis. The dermis [8:02] contains things like collagen, elastin, [8:04] and glycosaminoglycans, [8:06] which contribute overall to the [8:08] structure of the skin. As far as an [8:09] ingredient that you can use safely at [8:11] home that now has some evidence to back [8:13] up that it's working not just at the [8:15] epidermis, but the dermis, I think that [8:18] is worth knowing about and considering [8:20] for those of you truly seeking to [8:22] improve not just the epidermis, but the [8:24] dermis as well with an affordable, safe, [8:28] at-home option. And above and beyond the [8:29] cosmetic benefits of just having less [8:32] obvious wrinkles perhaps, the other [8:34] thing to keep in mind is that that [8:35] dermal atrophy piece of things also [8:38] underlies structural changes that [8:40] ultimately set up older adults for [8:43] increased problems with their skin as [8:46] they get older that can lead to, well, [8:48] harm. Namely, on we think about it a lot [8:50] on the backs of the hands where the [8:51] atrophy of the skin related to [8:53] cumulative sun damage there, this is [8:55] very sun-exposed territory, leaves the [8:57] skin on the backs of the hands [8:58] incredibly fragile, prone to tearing, [9:00] easy bruising, and overall poor wound [9:03] healing. So, this is an affordable, [9:06] relatively speaking in the grand [9:07] landscape of skin care, safe, at-home [9:10] product that has the potential to really [9:12] make a meaningful difference for these [9:14] individuals, and another reason why I [9:17] think it's worth knowing about. Of [9:18] course, the histologic change in [9:20] clinical studies is great to see as [9:22] confirmation, but let's set our [9:24] expectations realistically. It doesn't [9:26] necessarily mean that you're going to [9:27] wake up looking 30 years younger after [9:29] using this, that it's going to [9:30] completely erase wrinkles. It can [9:32] modestly improve them perhaps through [9:34] the the collagen effects here. Then [9:37] there's another human study that I also [9:39] want to draw your attention to. And this [9:41] is specific with the buffered ammonium [9:43] lactate. Researchers wanted to know [9:45] whether 12% ammonium lactate could [9:48] prevent or mitigate long-term [9:50] corticosteroid-induced [9:52] dermal atrophy. So, if you're not aware, [9:54] topical steroids are widely used in [9:56] dermatology to manage a variety of [9:58] inflammatory skin conditions. They can [10:00] be game-changers, but very potent [10:02] topical steroids, one of their potential [10:05] adverse side effects is, well, dermal [10:07] atrophy. And that leads to stretch marks [10:10] in the area where these topicals were [10:13] applied. And so, this is a clinical [10:15] study that actually looked at, well, if [10:17] we apply ammonium lactate 12% lotion [10:21] alongside the potent topical steroid [10:24] clobetasol, can we protect against or [10:27] prevent that dermal atrophy thing? Just [10:30] like with aging, corticosteroid-induced [10:32] atrophy of the skin doesn't just affect [10:34] the dermis, it affects the epidermis. [10:36] And what this study showed was that the [10:38] concomitant use of 12% buffered ammonium [10:40] lactate lotion alongside the clobetasol [10:43] could mitigate and and prevent both the [10:46] epidermal and the dermal atrophy that [10:49] can occur with the clobetasol. Also of [10:52] note, for those of you who often [10:54] verbalize the concern about applying [10:57] different products together conflicting [10:59] with one another, this study also looked [11:01] to make sure that the clobetasol was [11:04] still working. In other words, the [11:05] buffered ammonium lactate wasn't sparing [11:08] the epidermis and dermis because it was [11:10] rendering the steroid ineffective. They [11:12] still were able to show that the steroid [11:15] was working by measures of [11:17] anti-inflammatory markers and things of [11:19] that sort. In other words, it seems as [11:21] though the ammonium lactate is [11:23] specifically helping to come in and [11:25] address that dermal and epidermal [11:28] atrophy piece of things, offsetting the [11:30] negative side effect of the clobetasol [11:32] without interfering with the [11:33] clobetasol's mechanism of action for [11:36] benefiting the skin in the treatment of [11:38] inflammatory skin conditions. It's not [11:40] as though this study says, "Well, [11:42] everyone should be using ammonium [11:43] lactate 12% as an anti-aging treatment [11:46] at home." But, it's another piece of [11:48] human clinical and histopathologic, [11:50] meaning like actual biopsy showing, [11:52] "Yep, there is an objective change [11:54] there." Demonstrating the efficacy of [11:57] at-home use of 12% ammonium lactate for [12:01] improving not just epidermal thickness, [12:03] but dermal thickness as well. So, now [12:05] let's get into the actual question. Is [12:07] AmLactin 12% better than glycolic acid? [12:10] To answer that question, of course, it [12:12] depends on the scenario that you're [12:14] comparing them to. Specifically though, [12:15] when we're talking about at-home use, so [12:18] not in an in-office peel, at-home use, [12:20] ammonium lactate would be superior [12:23] because at 12% strength at least, it can [12:26] improve not just epidermal, but dermal [12:28] thickness. Glycolic acid products that [12:30] you're going to buy for safe at-home use [12:33] are not going to allow the glycolic acid [12:35] to meaningfully impact the dermal [12:37] collagen like what you would get in an [12:39] office peel. The answer is going to be, [12:42] evidence-based wise, 12% ammonium [12:44] lactate. But, 12% ammonium lactate is by [12:47] no means more powerful than an in-office [12:49] glycolic acid peel. So, this is actually [12:51] a really important lesson here when it [12:53] comes to critiquing and evaluating and [12:55] deciding whether or not a given skin [12:57] care ingredient is right for you. [13:00] Because a lot of times people want to [13:01] know, "What's better, this or that?" [13:03] But, that's really an oversimplification [13:05] because you have to ask, "What's the [13:07] concentration? What's the overall [13:08] formulation? The delivery system? Is [13:10] this something that is being [13:11] administered in office, or is it [13:13] something that is gentle and safe enough [13:15] for me to use at home?" Okay, well, if [13:17] that's the case, then what is it [13:18] realistically doing? Is it just acting [13:21] at the surface of the skin? Is it just [13:23] kind of hanging out there and [13:24] moisturizing? Or is it truly getting in? [13:27] Is it safe enough to formulate a product [13:30] that actually gets in that I can use [13:32] without supervision, without burning my [13:34] skin, that's going to affect the kind of [13:36] changes that I want? Or is it better to [13:38] go with an in-office procedure to derive [13:40] the benefit of this? Cuz that's really [13:42] where this conversation starts to go. [13:44] For glycolic acid to really get in there [13:46] and yield those dermal effects that we [13:48] see in office peels, you got to be [13:50] getting it from, well, an in-office [13:52] peel, not stuff that you buy at home. [13:55] that you buy at home, regardless of the [13:56] percentage, even if you happen to come [13:58] across a 20%, that's going to be in a [14:01] formula that is buffered and is still [14:04] likely to mostly be working at the [14:06] surface of the skin. And that's nothing [14:07] to balk at. Working at the surface of [14:09] the skin is great. It smooths and it may [14:12] help improve epidermal thickness, which [14:15] again, that's exactly what the lower [14:16] percentages of ammonium lactate in the [14:19] other AmLactin lotions do, the 5% [14:21] strength. But, if you're reading in a [14:23] dermatology textbook, for example, about [14:25] how glycolic acid is smaller, it [14:27] penetrates better, there's ample [14:29] evidence that it improves collagen, then [14:31] you may falsely conclude that, "Oh, my [14:33] glycolic acid toner is much better for [14:36] anti-aging, for improving wrinkles than [14:39] AmLactin lotion." So, does that mean [14:41] that using an at-home glycolic acid [14:43] toner or other at-home glycolic acid [14:45] product is a complete waste of time? [14:47] Absolutely not. Without a doubt, at-home [14:49] glycolic acid can help to exfoliate the [14:51] surface of the skin, smoothing it out. [14:53] Ultimately, that may allow for better [14:55] penetration of ingredients. a humectant, [14:58] so that's going to improve moisture [14:59] content, which ultimately it's going to [15:01] help with the natural turnover processes [15:03] of your epidermis. It's going to help [15:04] hasten the clearance of unwanted [15:06] pigmentation. And it also can help to [15:09] cut down to a certain extent on comedo [15:12] formation in individuals who have acne, [15:14] because by smoothing the skin and [15:16] helping with keratinocyte maturation to [15:19] a certain extent, you're you're to get a [15:20] reduction in the buildup of well, those [15:23] little pore plugs of a comedone. But, I [15:25] would just be cautious about [15:26] extrapolating the results of a very, [15:29] very potent you know, [15:30] office-administered chemical peel with [15:32] glycolic acid to the products that you [15:34] can buy and safely use at home. In other [15:36] words, if you are looking for an alpha [15:38] hydroxy acid that can improve not just [15:40] the epidermis, but the dermis that you [15:43] can safely use at home from a product [15:44] that you can buy in the store, no [15:46] dermatologist required. It's going to be [15:48] the AmLactin 12% lotion or higher. As a [15:50] side note, I didn't really want to get [15:52] into this too much. I've talked about it [15:53] in other videos, but AmLactin also makes [15:55] a 15% lotion. I would not look at that [15:58] as superior to 12%. It's probably just [16:01] as effective, but the higher percentage [16:03] might just reflect formulation [16:05] differences between those two products [16:07] rather than a true meaningful difference [16:09] as far as the ability to get down to the [16:12] dermis. I don't know. It you know, it [16:14] really all [16:15] those haven't been compared head-to-head [16:16] in other words. But, without a doubt, [16:19] the 12% strength is offering something [16:21] unique at the very least in comparison [16:23] to the lower percentage strengths of [16:25] ammonium lactate as is evidenced by the [16:27] 5 versus 12% study. And it's offering [16:30] something that you can't reliably get [16:32] from an at-home glycolic acid product. I [16:34] also want to put this into perspective [16:36] for you. Neither AmLactin 12% or [16:38] glycolic acid are the end-all be-alls of [16:41] improving the look of aging skin. And [16:43] when we're talking about other stuff [16:45] that can meaningfully impact the dermis [16:49] that you can buy and safely use at home, [16:51] there's not a whole lot. Okay, what are [16:53] your options? You have the vitamin A [16:55] family. Retinol and retinaldehyde are [16:58] cosmetic ingredients that your skin [17:00] converts to retinoic acid. I'll be at a [17:01] little slow, but once that happens, over [17:04] time, yes, you can get an improvement in [17:06] collagen production and a diminishment [17:08] of wrinkles. You also have prescription [17:10] tretinoin with ample evidence that it [17:13] can improve collagen production and help [17:15] with wrinkles. It's even FDA approved [17:17] for the treatment of photo damage. And [17:21] you also have another retinoid that you [17:24] can even buy here in the United States [17:25] without a prescription over the counter. [17:27] It's a medication used to treat acne, [17:29] but it's got the evidence that it can [17:30] improve collagen and that is adapalene [17:33] 0.1% gel. Or maybe you're being [17:36] prescribed adapalene 0.3% or maybe [17:38] you're being prescribed another one of [17:40] the topical retinoids like tazarotene or [17:42] trifarotene. These all count improve [17:45] collagen. The other topical that needs [17:47] to be brought up here is ascorbic acid, [17:50] vitamin C. Make sure it's ascorbic acid [17:53] because there are a lot of derivatives [17:54] out there that will not impact the [17:56] dermal thickness, the dermal collagen. [17:58] Okay, they may work at the surface of [18:00] the skin, but they're not getting in to [18:02] do what ascorbic acid could do. The [18:04] limitation of ascorbic acid is again a [18:06] formulation limitation. It's challenging [18:08] to get ascorbic acid into your skin and [18:11] it's challenging to formulate a product [18:12] where the ascorbic acid actually stays [18:15] stable. It's a very popular skin care [18:17] product to pursue for anti-aging, for [18:19] skin brightening, and people have been [18:22] told that they must use this ingredient. [18:24] But I'm here to share with you guys, [18:26] yeah, it can work provided it's [18:28] formulated correctly, but it's not the [18:30] end all be all as far as addressing that [18:32] dermal layer. And whether or not you get [18:35] even more improvement if you stack a [18:38] bunch of ingredients together, that's [18:39] never really been looked at either in an [18:41] at-home routine in any sort of objective [18:43] fashion. And we know that the more [18:45] products you use, the greater the [18:47] likelihood that you develop irritation [18:49] which can lead to unwanted effects like [18:50] hyperpigmentation. There's really not a [18:52] lot skin care product wise that's going [18:55] to work below the surface of the skin. [18:57] These are in the the ingredients. These [18:59] are the ingredients that have evidence [19:01] that they can. Not to mention the other [19:03] ingredient over all of this and that is [19:05] your sun protection. Sun protection with [19:07] a broad spectrum sunscreen and of course [19:10] sun protective clothing and the [19:11] behaviors that you choose around sun [19:14] exposure make a huge huge difference not [19:17] just at the surface of the skin but down [19:19] below because those UV rays they [19:21] penetrate deeply. They upregulate [19:24] enzymes that degrade the collagen in [19:26] your skin and they also suppress your [19:28] immune system's ability to come in and [19:31] heal damage. So for those reasons you [19:35] really want to be actively protecting [19:36] your skin from the sun. I mean as I [19:38] mentioned earlier a big issue with [19:40] age-related dermal atrophy that is [19:42] exacerbated made more severe likely [19:45] through cumulative sun exposure because [19:47] it's a very sun exposed territory and [19:49] delicate skin to begin with it's going [19:51] to be the backs of the hands. Okay, so [19:53] make sure you're protecting sun exposed [19:55] skin and you're not engaging in tanning [19:58] intentional tanning behaviors. All [20:00] right, so the bottom line when it comes [20:02] to stuff that you use at home for [20:03] improving dermal thickness. I say locked [20:06] in 12% lotion without a doubt you can [20:08] feel a lot more confident has a fighting [20:10] chance of doing something above and [20:12] beyond just improving the surface of the [20:14] skin but improving the surface of the [20:16] skin is nothing to balk at. Improving [20:18] epidermal thickness is definitely a [20:20] great goal. If you have very sensitive [20:22] skin you might not tolerate 12% ammonium [20:25] lactate. You might not tolerate a [20:26] topical retinoid and so it you know it [20:29] might not be right for you. Skin care [20:31] ingredients are not in some sort of [20:33] Olympics. There's not a gold silver and [20:36] bronze for anti-aging. Okay. [20:39] So keep that in mind as tempting it is [20:41] as it is to to want to go after things [20:44] that we perceive to be like the most [20:45] powerful, the most robust, the most [20:48] evidence-based. There's a lot of [20:49] heterogeneity out there and there's a [20:51] lot in terms of how people differ as far [20:54] as what they respond to and so what's [20:56] going to be right for them. Okay, none [20:58] of this is medically necessary aside [21:00] from the sun protection to keep your [21:01] skin healthy long term but otherwise you [21:04] know this This a personal choice and if [21:06] you want to guide your decision-making [21:08] for how to build your skin care routine [21:10] about what's actually been shown to [21:12] possibly work, it's going to be 12% [21:14] ammonium lactate at home or an in-office [21:16] glycolic acid peel. All right, y'all. I [21:18] hope this helped clarify. On the end [21:19] slate, I'm actually going to put my [21:21] video um discussing how to apply [21:24] AmLactin lotion. And yes, it can be [21:26] applied to the face if I didn't mention [21:27] that, provided you tolerate it. Check [21:29] that video out cuz I break it down into [21:31] how to use it alongside a retinoid if [21:33] you want to pair the two anti aging uh [21:35] dermal targeting ingredients, if you [21:37] will, together. So, watch that video [21:39] next if that is of interest to you. But, [21:41] if you enjoyed today's video, give it a [21:43] thumbs up, share it with your friends, [21:44] and as always, don't forget sunscreen [21:46] and subscribe. I'll talk to you guys [21:47] tomorrow. Bye. [21:50] >> [music] [22:03] [music]