Dr. Dray Warns Stacking Exfoliants Triggers Skin Barrier Collapse

Dr Dray

Natural dead-cell shedding depends on water-activated enzymes, meaning moisturizers resolve dry and flaky skin while additional scrubs and chemical acids only accelerate barrier damage.

AI-assisted summary of How Often Should You Really Exfoliate Your Skin? — original source. Check the original for full context.

Source published: 2026-09-02

Key ideas

Exfoliation needs are highly individual, with routine grooming habits such as razor shaving, washcloth cleansing, and high-pressure shower water already providing significant overlooked mechanical exfoliation. (3:10)
Stratum corneum shedding depends on endogenous hydrolytic enzymes that require adequate water to function; maintaining barrier hydration through moisturizers often resolves flakiness without any exfoliating acids or scrubs. (8:11)
Scrubbing or applying chemical acids to tretinoin-induced peeling exacerbates barrier collapse; gently massaging mineral oil or facial oil safely loosens dead flakes while preserving moisture. (9:04)
Estrogen decline during menopause reduces natural moisturizing factors and slows shedding, making humectant alpha hydroxy acids helpful, though caution is necessary for those with co-occurring rosacea. (10:33)

Detailed notes

## Background This video was published on YouTube by dermatologist Dr Dray on September 2, 2026. According to the page description, it breaks down how often to exfoliate, the differences between chemical and physical methods, how everyday habits contribute to friction, and how to spot and manage an over-exfoliated skin barrier.

## TL;DR Dr Dray dispels the myth of a universal exfoliation schedule, explaining that natural desquamation already sheds dead skin cells and that everyday activities like shaving, washing with cloths, and showering introduce hidden physical exfoliation. She details how chemical exfoliants (AHAs and BHAs) work compared to mechanical methods and retinoids, highlighting why hydration and moisturizing are essential for natural enzymatic shedding. The video outlines common warning signs of barrier collapse—such as burning, redness, and worsening melasma or flaking—and advises dealing with retinoid peeling using gentle oils rather than aggressive scrubs. Ultimately, she emphasizes a minimalist, barrier-first philosophy: assess existing friction, avoid stacking active ingredients, and refrain from introducing exfoliants if the skin is already healthy and functional.

## Atmosphere & style The presentation is clinical, measured, and refreshingly pragmatic, driven by Dr Dray's direct and no-nonsense educational delivery. Rather than peddling skincare trends, she speaks with the reassuring authority of a practicing dermatologist cautioning viewers against commercial hype and unnecessary multi-step regimens. The tone feels grounded, candid, and demystifying, stripping away consumer anxiety with clear biological explanations and sensible, barrier-protective advice.

## Bulletin - [03:10](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=190s) Exfoliation needs are highly individual, with routine grooming habits such as razor shaving, washcloth cleansing, and high-pressure shower water already providing significant overlooked mechanical exfoliation. - [08:11](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=491s) Stratum corneum shedding depends on endogenous hydrolytic enzymes that require adequate water to function; maintaining barrier hydration through moisturizers often resolves flakiness without any exfoliating acids or scrubs. - [09:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=544s) Scrubbing or applying chemical acids to tretinoin-induced peeling exacerbates barrier collapse; gently massaging mineral oil or facial oil safely loosens dead flakes while preserving moisture. - [10:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=633s) Estrogen decline during menopause reduces natural moisturizing factors and slows shedding, making humectant alpha hydroxy acids helpful, though caution is necessary for those with co-occurring rosacea.

## Key takeaways - [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=0s) Exfoliation merely accelerates desquamation—the skin's intrinsic biological process of shedding dead corneocytes—and is not an automatic requirement simply because someone has skin. - [01:38](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=98s) Chemical exfoliants break intercellular bonds (AHAs) or penetrate sebum-rich pores (BHAs), whereas topical retinoids regulate cell differentiation upstream rather than directly dissolving dead surface cells. - [01:38](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=98s) High acid concentrations act faster but carry elevated risks of irritation and flaking, whereas lower concentrations achieve identical long-term clinical improvements with greater barrier safety. - [03:10](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=190s) Everyday friction from washcloths, manual razor shaving, and the kinetic pressure of shower water functions as mechanical exfoliation that must be factored into overall skin tolerance. - [05:02](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=302s) There is no universal exfoliation schedule; while some resilient skin tolerates frequent use, many people benefit from once or twice weekly exfoliation, and others do best without any at all. - [06:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=375s) The earliest indicator of an over-exfoliated skin barrier is sudden stinging or burning upon application of gentle, non-active cleansers and moisturizers. - [06:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=375s) Excessive exfoliation can induce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and provoke severe flares in reactive pigmentary conditions like melasma. - [08:11](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=491s) Dehydration deactivates the enzymes responsible for breaking down corneodesmosomes, causing dead skin cells to compact into rough, dry flakes that require moisture rather than harsher exfoliation. - [09:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=544s) Tackling retinoid peeling with scrubs or chemical acids creates a cycle of worsening irritation, whereas lubricating dry patches with mineral or facial oil gently removes flakes without abrasion. - [10:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=633s) Menopausal skin experiences thinning and reduced natural moisturizing factors, making humectant AHAs beneficial for both hydration and cell turnover, provided underlying redness or rosacea is not provoked. - [12:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=732s) Recovering from over-exfoliation requires stopping all active acids and physical abrasives, simplifying care to a gentle cleanser, barrier-repair moisturizer, soothing agents like niacinamide, and sunscreen. - [12:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=761s) The availability of inexpensive, targeted skincare actives frequently drives unnecessary multi-step routines, whereas optimal skin health relies on using only what the skin genuinely requires.

## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=0s) The Purpose of Exfoliation and Desquamation

Online advice regarding how frequently to exfoliate is full of conflicting dogmas, ranging from claims that skin must be exfoliated twice a day to declarations that once a week is the absolute limit. Dr. Dray emphasizes that no single correct schedule exists. An individual's optimal frequency depends on their skin type, environmental climate, concurrent skincare steps, and active ingredients. The most frequent pitfall in skincare routines is unintentional over-exfoliation: people rarely recognize how many everyday habits already accelerate cell shedding before they ever pick up a dedicated exfoliating product.

Fundamentally, the outermost surface of the skin undergoes an ongoing, intrinsic physiological process called desquamation, shedding dead cellular plates known as corneocytes. Exfoliating products and tools merely speed up and hasten this natural rate of shedding. Stripping away the top layer of compacted dead cells leaves the skin feeling visibly smoother, more even, and noticeably more radiant. It can also accelerate the clearance of superficial epidermal pigment and tackle stubborn rough, cracked, or bumpy skin textures. Furthermore, certain exfoliants target the pores directly to relieve blackheads, whiteheads, and acne flares. However, Dr. Dray cautions against treating exfoliation as an automatic requirement: "Simply having skin is not a reason to exfoliate." The real question is whether adding an exfoliant supplies any tangible benefit that the skin's built-in renewal processes cannot achieve on their own.

- **Corneocyte Shedding**: The biological process of shedding outer dead cells is called desquamation. - **Visual and Clinical Outcomes**: Exfoliation enhances surface smoothness, promotes a radiant appearance, lifts superficial epidermal pigment, and refines rough or bumpy texture. - **Targeted Utility**: Depending on the formulation, exfoliants can either clear follicular debris to reduce acne lesions or soften thick, hyperkeratotic skin.

---

[01:38](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=98s) Chemical Exfoliants and Cellular Turnover

Chemical exfoliation functions by dissolving and breaking the intercellular bonds that anchor shedding dead cells together, prompting them to detach much faster. The most prevalent chemical agents are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid. In contrast, beta hydroxy acids—chiefly salicylic acid—are lipid-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deep into the sebum-rich environment of the pores to dissolve debris and curb the formation of open and closed comedones. Other non-exfoliating ingredients achieve similar clarity by regulating cell differentiation upstream. Topical retinoids (including prescription formulas as well as cosmetic retinol and retinaldehyde) do not directly dissolve dead surface cells; instead, they normalize the rate at which the epidermis matures and travels outward. Because the cells reach the surface in uniform cohorts, shedding becomes far more orderly and regular, substantially reducing the baseline need for traditional exfoliants.

The intensity of a chemical exfoliant depends heavily on formulation attributes, especially the active concentration. Lower-percentage acids work more gradually, offering gentler exfoliation that minimizes the risk of barrier impairment, whereas high concentrations work more rapidly but sharply increase the incidence of irritation, flaking, and dryness. Dr. Dray reminds viewers that pursuing the highest potency is unnecessary: safe, home-use exfoliants arrive at the exact same clinical result over time, differing only in their speed of action and risk of adverse reactions.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Chemical Exfoliation and Turnover Mechanisms accDescr: Diagram illustrating how chemical exfoliants and retinoids operate on the skin surface and pores. subgraph DirectExfoliation["Direct Bond Breakdown"] A["Surface Corneocytes"] --> B["AHAs: Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic"] C["Pore Follicle & Sebum"] --> D["BHA: Oil-Soluble Salicylic Acid"] B --> E["Accelerated Cell Detachment"] D --> E end subgraph UpstreamRegulation["Epidermal Maturation"] F["Topical Retinoids & Retinaldehyde"] --> G["Normalized Epidermal Maturation"] G --> H["Uniform, Predictable Shedding"] end ```

---

[03:10](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=190s) Mechanical Exfoliation and Everyday Friction

Mechanical exfoliation relies on physical friction to scrape away loosening corneocytes. While traditional examples include abrasive facial scrubs, loofahs, facial brushes, and exfoliating body mitts, significant physical abrasion occurs during regular grooming routines. Simply washing with a cloth using light to medium pressure acts as an effective mechanical exfoliant. Shaving is another major, commonly overlooked physical exfoliant: running a razor across the skin not only shears away facial or body hair at the skin line but also physically planes away layers of surface cells. In clinical settings, professional procedures such as microdermabrasion and dermaplaning utilize this same mechanism in a standardized, controlled manner.

Friction also accumulates during basic hygiene routines. The sheer velocity and pressure of shower water striking the skin hastens the detachment of corneocytes, functioning as a mild mechanical exfoliant on its own. Showering, body washes, and facial cleansers—particularly those fortified with low-level chemical acids—all compound physical and chemical shearing forces. When someone showers under high water pressure, scrubs with a washcloth, shaves their legs or face, applies a physical scrub, and finishes with an acid-infused lotion, the layered friction severely compromises the stratum corneum. These small, uncounted stressors rapidly add up, producing barrier collapse, stinging, and reactive redness.

- **Primary Physical Tools**: Abrasive bead scrubs, loofahs, brushes, washcloths, and exfoliating body mitts. - **Overlooked Physical Exfoliation**: Manual razor shaving and the physical force of high-pressure shower streams. - **Clinical Modalities**: Dermaplaning and microdermabrasion. - **The Stacking Hazard**: Combining showers, washcloths, razors, scrubs, and exfoliating moisturizers creates excessive cumulative abrasion.

---

[05:02](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=302s) Determining Your Ideal Exfoliation Frequency

Because tolerance varies radically across individuals, there is no universal exfoliation schedule. Certain resilient skin types can handle twice-daily chemical exfoliants without adverse effects, whereas individuals with compromised barriers or reactive skin types achieve far better results by skipping dedicated exfoliants entirely. Dr. Dray advises approaching any new exfoliating treatment conservatively, starting at low frequencies to observe biological tolerance before escalating. She remarks that "you don't get extra credit for exfoliating every day, but you also don't get extra credit for going around and policing everybody and telling them that they should never exfoliate every day."

For many individuals, applying an exfoliant once or twice a week provides noticeable textural improvement and radiance without compromising the barrier. Mechanical friction requires particular caution: if an individual already shaves an area daily—such as women shaving their legs every morning—layering chemical acids or scrubs onto that same site is an easy way to trigger severe dermatitis. Routine frequency must always be judged against the background friction already taking place.

---

[06:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=375s) Recognizing Over-Exfoliation and the Dangers of Stacking

When introduced judiciously, exfoliation effectively smooths coarse skin, clarifies uneven skin tone, minimizes follicular impactions, and softens conditions like keratosis pilaris, which is characterized by rough, keratin-plugged hair follicles sitting on an erythematous base. However, noticing early benefits often tempts people into believing that more frequent or aggressive exfoliation will yield even better outcomes. In reality, stepping past the skin's tolerance threshold quickly induces cutaneous distress.

The initial indicators of an over-exfoliated skin barrier are unmistakable: gentle, everyday products that were previously well tolerated suddenly cause acute stinging and burning upon contact. The skin often displays persistent erythema, sudden flushing, and a rebound flare of inflammatory conditions like rosacea or acne vulgaris. In skin prone to hyperpigmentation, excessive exfoliation generates sustained cutaneous inflammation, triggering post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). It is particularly destructive for melasma—a pigmentary disorder that Dr. Dray highlights as being "oh so sensitive, oh so fickle." Stacking multiple active steps, such as shaving the face, applying a glycolic acid toner, and following with a salicylic acid cream, virtually guarantees barrier collapse. A fundamental skincare principle applies: the greater the number of active, irritating products layered together, the higher the risk of adverse inflammatory reactions.

- **Keratosis Pilaris**: Characterized by keratinized, dry buildups around follicular openings, often presenting as rough bumps on an inflamed, red base. - **Subjective Warning Signs**: Stinging, tingling, or burning sensations from gentle, non-active moisturizers and cleansers. - **Objective Warning Signs**: Persistent erythema, flushing episodes, and flare-ups of baseline rosacea or acne. - **Pigment Risks**: Induction of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and severe flares of finicky melasma patches.

---

[08:11](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=491s) Why Proper Moisturization Facilitates Natural Shedding

Moisturizing is frequently dismissed as a purely cosmetic or comforting step, yet it plays a fundamental biological role in skin renewal. When stratum corneum hydration drops, the endogenous hydrolytic enzymes responsible for breaking down the corneodesmosomes that bind dead skin cells together become inactive. In this water-depleted state, cellular shedding grinds to a halt; dead cells cannot detach, becoming dry, compacted, and "caked on," which manifests clinically as rough patches and flaky skin.

Counterintuitively, the remedy for dry, rough flaking is rarely more aggressive exfoliation. Regular application of effective moisturizers restores the water reservoir in the outer skin layers, re-establishing the optimal enzymatic environment for normal desquamation. By maintaining adequate skin barrier hydration, dead cells shed on schedule without intervention, eliminating the textural buildup and rough feel that leads people to reach for scrubs and acids in the first place.

[09:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=544s) Managing Flakes and Peeling: Why Moisturizer Trumps Exfoliation

A well-moisturized stratum corneum naturally appears smoother and can even diminish the look of uneven pigmentation through light scattering. However, the single most common pitfall occurs when individuals notice dry, peeling, or flaky patches and instinctively reach for an exfoliating scrub or acid to scrape them away. Flakiness is actually visible proof that the skin is already attempting to shed excess cells on its own; piling extra exfoliation on top of an already compromised barrier only triggers deeper irritation and further peeling.

A prime clinical example is the familiar retinization peeling that accompanies topical tretinoin, especially during the introductory weeks. Instead of attacking tretinoin flakes with an alpha hydroxy acid or an abrasive facial scrub, the far gentler and more effective remedy is applying mineral oil or a preferred facial oil directly to the dry areas. Massaging the oil over the skin lubricates the surface and allows dead, clumped flakes to slough away effortlessly while simultaneously reinforcing moisture retention. Once those rough clusters are removed without friction or irritation, regular moisturizer spreads smoothly across the surface, effectively sealing in hydration and stopping the cycle of persistent dryness.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Dealing with Tretinoin Peeling and Flakes accDescr: Flowchart illustrating the right approach versus the damaging approach when managing facial peeling.

subgraph Problem["Skin Peeling & Flaking"] A["Flaky Skin / Tretinoin Peeling"] end

subgraph WrongWay["Damaging Instinct"] B["Reach for AHAs or Physical Scrubs"] C["Stripped Barrier & Escalating Flaking"] end

subgraph RightWay["Barrier-Supporting Approach"] D["Apply Mineral or Facial Oil"] E["Gently Slough Clumped Dead Flakes"] F["Apply Rich Moisturizer to Lock Hydration"] end

A -->|"Common Mistake"| B B --> C A -->|"Recommended Method"| D D --> E E --> F ```

- **The Tretinoin Trap**: Using chemical exfoliants or physical scrubs to polish away tretinoin-induced peeling temporarily strips surface flakes but damages the stratum corneum, creating a vicious cycle of heavier flaking. - **The Oil Method**: Mineral oil or gentle facial oils mechanically soften and detach shedding skin without compromising underlying moisture levels or disturbing fragile cells.

---

[10:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=633s) Menopause, Aging Skin, and the Double-Edged Sword of AHAs

Women navigating their 40s and beyond are perpetually bombarded with marketing declaring that exfoliation is an absolute, non-negotiable imperative. While there is a solid biological rationale behind this advice, mature skin requires a nuanced approach. The hormonal shifts of menopause bring a significant drop in estrogen levels, which rapidly alters skin physiology. Skin loses water far more readily because it stops producing natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) in robust quantities, epidermal and dermal layers thin out, and the protective barrier becomes compromised. This steep drop in water content impairs natural enzymatic shedding, resulting in a dull, rough buildup of dead stratum corneum cells on the surface.

Because water content dictates natural desquamation, moisturizer remains the frontline defense for postmenopausal skin, frequently reducing the need for aggressive exfoliants altogether. When intentional chemical exfoliation is warranted, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) shine because they behave intrinsically as humectants—binding moisture into the tissue while chemically ungluing compacted, flaky cellular heaps. Depending on formulation and concentration, AHAs can also encourage structural thickness in mature tissue. Nevertheless, this is not a one-size-fits-all solution; many mature women simultaneously contend with skin conditions like rosacea, where intentional acid exfoliation can easily spark severe flushing, irritation, and barrier collapse.

- **Estrogen Decline**: Causes reduced synthesis of natural moisturizing factors, leading to accelerated transepidermal water loss and structural thinning of both epidermis and dermis. - **Hydration and Shedding**: Desquamation enzymes require water to function; maintaining hydration via moisturizers directly supports natural cellular turnover. - **The Role of AHAs**: AHAs combine chemical exfoliation with humectant hydration and potential collagen-stimulating benefits, but must be avoided or used with extreme caution by those prone to rosacea.

---

[12:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=732s) Recovering from Over-Exfoliation: The Reset Routine

When exfoliation has gone too far—leaving the complexion stinging, tight, red, or excessively sensitized—the immediate mandate is to hit pause on all exfoliating actives. Every acid, scrub, washcloth, and active treatment must be eliminated from the regimen until the skin's protective lipid barrier has an opportunity to rebuild itself. The focus shifts entirely to rehabilitation, favoring rich, occlusive barrier creams designed to halt water loss and accelerate stratum corneum repair.

To calm persistent inflammation and sensitivity during this recovery phase, lightweight hydrating essences or toners packed with soothing ingredients like niacinamide can be introduced. Stripping the daily ritual down to the bare essentials—a gentle, non-stripping cleanser, a restorative moisturizer, and a dedicated moisturizing sunscreen every morning—is typically all that is required. Given a few weeks of consistency and zero abrasive interference, the cutaneous barrier reliably bounces back to a calm, resilient state.

- **Immediate Cessation**: Stop all physical and chemical exfoliants entirely at the first sign of burning, stinging, or redness. - **Barrier Repair**: Swap lighter lotions for dense, lipid-replenishing barrier creams that seal in water. - **Soothing Actives**: Incorporate anti-inflammatory agents like niacinamide to diminish post-irritation sensitivity. - **The Core Routine**: Restrict daily care strictly to gentle cleansing, intensive moisturizing, and broad-spectrum sun protection.

---

[12:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=761s) The Modern Skincare Trap and Final Takeaways

There is no universal, rigid schedule dictating how frequently an individual must exfoliate. Skin needs vary dramatically across different skin types, environmental climates, and phases of life. Some individuals thrive with zero deliberate exfoliation in their routines, whereas others genuinely benefit from targeted chemical or mechanical interventions. The governing philosophy should always be: "if it's not broken, don't fix it." If the skin feels comfortable, texture is soft, and the barrier is intact, adding an exfoliant simply for the sake of following a routine trend is an unnecessary gamble.

This tendency to overdo things is one of the most perilous traps of the contemporary skincare market. While consumers enjoy unprecedented access to an endless array of targeted active ingredients and affordable formulas, this abundance tempts people to purchase and layer treatments their skin never actually needed. When managing cellular turnover, "more isn't better"—the true objective is doing only what is strictly required to support skin function. Viewers looking to delve deeper into comparative ingredients for mature skin are encouraged to review the breakdown of glycolic acid versus ammonium lactate (as formulated in AmLactin lotion) to see how different AHA profiles compare for aging skin.

- **Individualized Frequency**: Exfoliation frequency ranges from never to several times weekly depending on genetic tendencies, skin thickness, and barrier health. - **The Pitfall of Product Abundance**: The proliferation of cheap, specialized skincare products frequently leads to unnecessary multi-step routines that trigger preventable barrier dysfunction. - **Glycolic Acid vs. Ammonium Lactate**: Different AHAs offer distinct humectant and exfoliating profiles, with lactic acid derivatives like ammonium lactate serving as potent moisturizers for xerotic, mature skin.

## Notable quotes > [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=0s) Simply having skin is not a reason to exfoliate. — Dr. Dray

> [01:38](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=98s) safe, home-use exfoliants arrive at the exact same clinical result over time, differing only in their speed of action and risk of adverse reactions. — Dr. Dray

> [05:02](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=302s) you don't get extra credit for exfoliating every day, but you also don't get extra credit for going around and policing everybody and telling them that they should never exfoliate every day. — Dr. Dray

> [06:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=375s) oh so sensitive, oh so fickle. — Dr. Dray

> [06:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=375s) the greater the number of active, irritating products layered together, the higher the risk of adverse inflammatory reactions. — Dr. Dray

> [08:11](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=491s) Counterintuitively, the remedy for dry, rough flaking is rarely more aggressive exfoliation. — Dr. Dray

> [09:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=544s) Flakiness is actually visible proof that the skin is already attempting to shed excess cells on its own — Dr. Dray

> [10:33](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=633s) Because water content dictates natural desquamation, moisturizer remains the frontline defense for postmenopausal skin — Dr. Dray

> [12:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=732s) When exfoliation has gone too far—leaving the complexion stinging, tight, red, or excessively sensitized—the immediate mandate is to hit pause on all exfoliating actives. — Dr. Dray

> [12:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=761s) if it's not broken, don't fix it. — Dr. Dray

> [12:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o&t=761s) more isn't better — Dr. Dray

> There is no universal answer for how often to exfoliate. — Dr. Dray

## Mentioned Dr. Dray, AmLactin, Amazon, YouTube

## Video description How often should you really exfoliate your skin? In this video, dermatologist Dr. Dray explains how often to exfoliate, the difference between chemical and physical exfoliation, and how to tell when your skin is being over-exfoliated.

Exfoliation can help improve rough texture, clogged pores, keratosis pilaris, flaky skin, and the appearance of uneven skin tone. But exfoliating too frequently or combining multiple exfoliating methods can disrupt the skin barrier and lead to dryness, burning, stinging, redness, peeling, and worsening of certain skin conditions.

Dr. Dray explains why everyday habits such as shaving, using a washcloth, and cleansing can contribute to the overall amount of physical stress on the skin, even though they may not be thought of as traditional exfoliation. She also discusses the importance of regular moisturizing for supporting the skin barrier and normal shedding of dead skin cells.

The video also covers how exfoliation needs can change with aging and menopause, when skin may become drier and rougher but also more sensitive and fragile.

Topics covered:

0:00 Introduction 0:34 What Does Exfoliation Actually Do? 1:38 Chemical Exfoliation 3:10 Mechanical Exfoliation 5:02 How Often Should You Exfoliate? 6:15 The Benefits of Exfoliation 6:51 When Exfoliation Becomes Too Much 7:37 Don't Stack Exfoliants 8:11 Don't Forget Moisturizer 10:33 What About Menopause and Aging? 12:12 What Should You Do If You've Over-Exfoliated? 12:41 Final Points

Whether someone uses glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, a facial scrub, a washcloth, or simply shaves regularly, the ideal exfoliation routine depends on the individual and how their skin responds.

Key takeaway: There is no universal answer for how often to exfoliate. Some people may benefit from exfoliating once or twice a week, while others can tolerate more frequent exfoliation. Some people may not need to exfoliate at all. Paying attention to skin sensitivity and maintaining a healthy skin barrier are essential.

#Exfoliation #Skincare #Dermatologist #SkinBarrier #ChemicalExfoliation #PhysicalExfoliation #AgingSkin #KeratosisPilaris

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Disclaimer: This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this Youtube channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this Youtube channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.

[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLDs-KM0F1o)

中文简报

Dr. Dray警告：叠加去角质或致皮肤屏障崩溃皮肤死皮细胞的自然脱落依赖水激活酶，这意味着保湿剂即可解决干燥脱皮，而额外叠加磨砂膏和化学酸类只会加速破坏屏障。 Dr. Dray破除了“固定通进去角质周期”这一迷思，解释道皮肤自身的角质剥落机制本就会代谢死皮细胞，而剃须、用毛巾洁面和淋浴等日常行为早已带来了常被忽视的物理去角质作用。她详细对比了化学去角质剂（AHA和BHA）与物理去角质法及维A酸类成分的作用机制，强调补水与保湿对维持天然酶促脱屑至关重要。视频还指出了皮肤屏障崩溃的常见警示信号（如灼热感、泛红以及黄褐斑或脱皮加重），并建议在应对维A酸引起的脱皮时应使用温和油脂而非剧烈磨砂。最后，她倡导极简与屏障优先的护肤理念：评估日常摩擦、避免叠加活性成分，在皮肤健康且机能良好时切勿额外引入去角质步骤。去角质需求高度因人而异，使用剃须刀剃须、毛巾擦洗以及高压淋浴冲洗等日常护理习惯，实际上已经提供了大量常被忽视的物理机械去角质作用。 (3:10) 角质层脱落依赖于需要充足水分才能运作的内源性水解酶；仅通过保湿剂维持屏障水合状态通常就能改善起皮脱屑，无需使用任何去角质酸类或磨砂膏。 (8:11) 对使用维A酸（tretinoin）引起的脱皮进行磨砂或刷酸会加剧屏障崩溃；轻柔打圈按摩矿物油或面部护理油可以在保留水分的同时，安全地松动死皮碎屑。 (9:04) 更年期雌激素水平下降会减少天然保湿因子并减缓角质脱落速度，使兼具吸湿特性的果酸（AHA）变得有益，但伴有玫瑰痤疮的患者仍需谨慎使用。 (10:33)

Reading summary

Dr. Dray argues that exfoliation is not an automatic physiological requirement, as the skin continuously sheds dead cells through natural desquamation and everyday mechanical friction. Optimal frequency is highly individualized, and rough texture or flaking is frequently better resolved by restoring skin hydration rather than applying harsh acids or physical scrubs. Mechanisms of Natural Shedding, Acids, and Retinoids (1:38) The outer stratum corneum naturally sheds dead corneocytes through an enzymatic process known as desquamation. Chemical exfoliants accelerate this shedding: water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid, dissolve intercellular bonds at the skin surface, whereas oil-soluble beta hydroxy acids, primarily salicylic acid, penetrate sebum to clear follicular impactions. Dr. Dray notes that lower-potency formulations achieve the same clinical outcomes as higher concentrations over time, while significantly reducing the risk of irritation and barrier damage. In contrast, topical retinoids do not directly dissolve cellular bonds. Instead, retinoids normalize epidermal maturation and cellular differentiation upstream. Because new cells reach the surface in orderly cohorts, shedding occurs predictably, which Dr. Dray highlights as significantly reducing an individual's baseline need for supplemental chemical exfoliants. Everyday Physical Friction and Regimen Stacking Hazards (3:10) Deliberate physical scrubs, loofahs, and brushes represent only a fraction of the mechanical friction experienced by the skin. Routine grooming acts as a powerful physical exfoliant; manual razor shaving planes away surface cells alongside hair, while washcloths and high-velocity shower streams physically dislodge corneocytes. Clinical procedures like microdermabrasion and dermaplaning merely standardize these identical abrasive mechanisms. The primary danger arises from unintentional regimen stacking. When individuals combine daily shaving or washcloth scrubbing with acid cleansers, mechanical scrubs, and exfoliating moisturizers, the cumulative shearing forces compromise the stratum corneum. Dr. Dray emphasizes that layered friction rapidly triggers barrier collapse, acute stinging, and contact dermatitis, making it essential to audit baseline friction before introducing dedicated exfoliants. Restoring Moisture to Resolve Flaking and Peeling (8:11) The hydrolytic enzymes responsible for breaking down the corneodesmosomes that bind dead cells together require adequate water to function. When stratum corneum hydration drops, these enzymes deactivate, trapping dead cells into dry, compacted, flaky plaques. Consequently, rough texture and surface flaking often signal barrier dehydration rather than a deficiency in exfoliation. Instinctively scraping away dry patches or tretinoin-induced peeling with scrubs and AHAs strips the barrier further and worsens shedding cycles. Dr. Dray advises against treating visible peeling with exfoliants; instead, applying mineral oil or a gentle facial oil lubricates clumped dead flakes, enabling them to slough away effortlessly without friction. Following with a rich moisturizer restores enzymatic desquamation and seals the barrier without inducing inflammatory irritation. Recognizing Barrier Damage and Executing Regimen Resets (6:15) Over-exfoliation occurs when the skin's tolerance threshold is surpassed, commonly triggered by aggressive product use or layering multiple active ingredients. Its primary clinical indicator is acute stinging or burning when applying gentle, non-active moisturizers. Objective signs include persistent erythema, flushing episodes, and flare-ups of acne or rosacea. In hyperpigmentation-prone skin, excessive exfoliation generates inflammation that sparks post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and exacerbates delicate conditions such as melasma. Reversing barrier damage requires the immediate cessation of all chemical acids, physical scrubs, and washcloths. Dr. Dray outlines a restorative protocol centered on a gentle cleanser, dense lipid-replenishing barrier creams, lightweight anti-inflammatory agents like niacinamide, and daily sunscreen. Eliminating abrasive stressors for several weeks allows the lipid matrix to rebuild and restores baseline tolerance. Dr. Dray concludes that consumers must avoid the modern trap of overcomplicating skincare routines simply because targeted active products are widely available. While mature skin experiences declining estrogen and reduced natural moisturizing factors—making humectant AHAs potentially helpful—conditions like rosacea require strict moderation. The governing rule remains "if it's not broken, don't fix it": if the skin barrier is comfortable and functioning, adding deliberate exfoliants is an unnecessary risk.

Source quotes

[0:00] Dr. Dray: Simply having skin is not a reason to exfoliate. [1:38] Dr. Dray: safe, home-use exfoliants arrive at the exact same clinical result over time, differing only in their speed of action and risk of adverse reactions. [5:02] Dr. Dray: you don't get extra credit for exfoliating every day, but you also don't get extra credit for going around and policing everybody and telling them that they should never exfoliate every day. [6:15] Dr. Dray: oh so sensitive, oh so fickle. [6:15] Dr. Dray: the greater the number of active, irritating products layered together, the higher the risk of adverse inflammatory reactions. [8:11] Dr. Dray: Counterintuitively, the remedy for dry, rough flaking is rarely more aggressive exfoliation. [9:04] Dr. Dray: Flakiness is actually visible proof that the skin is already attempting to shed excess cells on its own [10:33] Dr. Dray: Because water content dictates natural desquamation, moisturizer remains the frontline defense for postmenopausal skin [12:12] Dr. Dray: When exfoliation has gone too far—leaving the complexion stinging, tight, red, or excessively sensitized—the immediate mandate is to hit pause on all exfoliating actives. [12:41] Dr. Dray: if it's not broken, don't fix it. [12:41] Dr. Dray: more isn't better Dr. Dray: There is no universal answer for how often to exfoliate.

Original transcript

[0:00] Well, hey guys, welcome back. If you're [0:01] new here, I'm Dr. Dray. I'm a [0:02] board-certified dermatologist. How often [0:05] should you be exfoliating? Once a week, [0:07] twice a week, every day, twice a day? [0:10] Seems like everywhere you turn on the [0:11] internet, someone has a different [0:13] definitive answer. There is no one [0:15] correct answer. It depends on your skin [0:17] type, what things you're going through, [0:19] the climate you're in, what else is [0:20] going on in your skin care routine, and [0:22] what other products you happen to be [0:24] using. I find a lot of people end up [0:26] overdoing it when it comes to [0:27] exfoliation simply because they fail to [0:30] realize all the things they're already [0:31] doing that are actively promoting [0:33] exfoliation of the skin. What does [0:34] exfoliation actually accomplish? The [0:37] outermost layer of your skin is [0:38] constantly shedding dead cells known as [0:40] corneocytes. This is a normal process [0:42] and it's referred to as desquamation. [0:44] Exfoliation hastens that and accelerates [0:47] the process. In removing some of these [0:49] accumulated surface dead cells, you make [0:51] the skin feel smoother. It looks more [0:53] even and has more of a radiant glow. It [0:55] also helps to hasten the clearance of [0:58] collections of unwanted pigmentation [1:00] that exist up higher in the epidermis. [1:02] In some situations, can be helpful for [1:05] certain skin conditions and skin [1:06] concerns. And certain exfoliants are [1:08] particularly useful in the setting of [1:11] rough skin texture, rough and bumpy [1:12] skin, the buildup of dry, cracked skin, [1:15] while others have a particular finesse [1:18] for, say, the pore, and therefore they [1:20] end up being very helpful for [1:22] blackheads, whiteheads, acne-related [1:24] issues. But, your skin is built to [1:27] naturally exfoliate on its own. Simply [1:29] having skin is not a reason to [1:31] exfoliate. The question is whether or [1:32] not adding an exfoliant is going to [1:34] offer anything of particular benefit to [1:37] you and your skin care routine. There [1:38] are two sort of broad categories of [1:40] exfoliation, chemical exfoliation and [1:42] mechanical. Chemical exfoliation uses [1:44] ingredients that loosen the bonds [1:45] between those shedding dead cells, [1:47] helping to hasten their removal. [1:49] Examples include alpha hydroxy acids [1:51] like glycolic, lactic, mandelic, or [1:53] salicylic acid. Because salicylic acid [1:56] is oil-soluble, it has the unique [1:58] ability to really localize down in the [2:00] pore, making it useful for exfoliating [2:03] the pore and cutting down on blackhead [2:04] and whitehead formation. There other [2:06] ingredients that can influence the rate [2:08] of the normal turnover processes of [2:10] things and ultimately, while they don't [2:12] directly exfoliate, they help in cutting [2:14] down on, well, the need to exfoliate. [2:16] For example, a topical retinoid or [2:19] cosmetic retinol or retinaldehyde helps [2:21] to normalize the rate at which the [2:22] epidermis matures so that everything [2:25] that comes to the top is a dead cell [2:27] more so at the same time and therefore, [2:30] you get more consistent rates of [2:32] shedding. And when we're talking about [2:34] chemical exfoliation, there are various [2:36] features of the given chemical [2:38] exfoliating product that can influence [2:40] the robustness, if you will, of the [2:42] exfoliating response initially. For [2:44] example, lower percentages tend to be a [2:46] lot gentler, easier to tolerate, whereas [2:49] higher percentages may work a little bit [2:51] faster, but be more inclined to lead to [2:53] dryness and irritation. You don't always [2:55] necessarily need the strongest, most [2:57] powerful, the most intense. Most things [2:59] that you use that you can use safely, I [3:01] should say, at home, they're going to [3:03] achieve the final end result the same. [3:05] It's more a difference in how the [3:08] process goes for you and how long it [3:10] takes to get there. The other category [3:11] is mechanical exfoliation. This [3:13] essentially relies on the physical [3:15] removal of those shedding cells through [3:17] friction applied to the skin. An obvious [3:19] example is the use of an exfoliating [3:21] facial scrub with particles in it that [3:24] are rough and help to [clears throat] [3:25] mechanically abrade away those shedding [3:28] cells. Just using a washcloth on the [3:30] skin mechanically exfoliates it, [3:32] especially with light to medium [3:34] pressure. Some people use an exfoliating [3:36] brush or a loofah or an exfoliating body [3:38] mitt. Shaving is another surprising [3:40] example of mechanical exfoliation, which [3:43] a lot of people don't realize that's [3:45] what's happening when they shave. They [3:47] are mechanically exfoliating in addition [3:49] to cutting the hairs at the surface of [3:51] the skin. Then, there are procedures [3:52] like dermaplaning, microdermabrasion, [3:54] that are designed mechanically exfoliate [3:56] the skin. The surprising thing that most [3:58] people won't realize is that even the [4:00] act of getting in the shower and letting [4:01] the shower water beat over the surface [4:03] of your skin helps to hasten skin's [4:06] natural exfoliation processes. Depending [4:08] on the pressure of the water, it can be [4:10] quite exfoliating. Bathing, cleansing, [4:12] washing your face, washing your body, [4:14] that aids mechanical exfoliation. And [4:16] some body washes and facial cleansers [4:19] use chemical exfoliating ingredients to [4:21] aid the process even further. And while [4:23] I wouldn't necessarily consider bathing [4:25] or washing one's face mechanical [4:28] exfoliation or regular exfoliation, do [4:31] be aware that when you stack other forms [4:34] of exfoliation on top of bathing, you [4:36] are getting, well, multiple [4:38] [clears throat] multiple kickoffs there [4:40] as far as those dead cells. You're [4:41] showering, using a washcloth, shaving, [4:44] and then coming in with a mechanical [4:45] scrub, and then coming on over with an [4:48] exfoliating acid in a body lotion after [4:50] you get out of the shower, that's quite [4:52] a bit. All those little things start to [4:54] add up. You have to consider how much [4:55] you're doing because all of that [4:58] exfoliation can backfire. You can get [5:00] unwanted irritation and problems. How [5:02] often should you actually be doing this? [5:04] There isn't a universal schedule. Many [5:06] products can safely be used twice daily [5:09] as tolerated for the purposes of [5:12] chemical exfoliation. Mechanical [5:14] exfoliation, it will really depend on [5:16] the body site. It will depend on the [5:18] pressure. It will depend on the nature [5:21] of the exfoliant, and also what else you [5:23] have going on. Some people are probably [5:25] better off not exfoliating at all. Their [5:28] skin doesn't need it, and doing so just [5:30] increases the likelihood of irritation [5:32] and problems. So, if you're thinking of [5:33] introducing an exfoliant, I think it's [5:35] reasonable to do so conservatively. And [5:37] get a sense of how your skin responds [5:39] and if it's helping. You don't get extra [5:41] credit for exfoliating every day, but [5:43] you also don't get extra credit for [5:45] going around and policing everybody and [5:47] telling them that they should never [5:49] exfoliate every day. If once or twice a [5:51] week is giving you the results that you [5:53] need without excessively irritating your [5:54] skin, then stick to that. Just be aware [5:56] that if you're using a mechanical [5:57] exfoliant, I'd be particularly cautious [5:59] about adding other things into the [6:01] routine. For example, if you shave a [6:03] given area every single day, like some [6:05] women shave their legs every day. Well, [6:07] then you may want to be a little bit [6:09] more careful with choosing to use some [6:12] form of exfoliant on your legs on top of [6:15] that. What good comes from exfoliating? [6:17] Well, where appropriate, exfoliation can [6:19] help to smooth the surface of the skin, [6:21] brighten up uneven skin tone. It can [6:23] help cut down on pore clogging. [6:25] Ultimately, that's going to be helpful [6:26] for acne. It can help improve the look [6:29] of dry, rough, coarse skin texture and [6:31] the condition keratosis pilaris, where [6:33] you get a buildup of dry, rough skin [6:36] around the follicles leading to these [6:37] little bumps that can become inflamed on [6:39] a red base. But, just because you begin [6:41] to appreciate some benefit from [6:44] exfoliating through whichever means you [6:46] choose, don't assume that that means [6:47] that more exfoliating is going to make [6:49] things even better. Because the problem [6:52] is that exfoliation can easily become [6:55] too much. Your skin will usually provide [6:57] some important warning signs that you [6:59] have over exfoliated. For example, [7:00] products that you have normally [7:02] tolerated just fine will suddenly start [7:04] stinging, burning. Your face might get [7:06] red after you apply them. May [7:07] experience, of course, flushing, but [7:09] also aggravation of underlying skin [7:12] conditions like acne or rosacea. Over [7:14] exfoliating can worsen hyperpigmentation [7:17] by generating [clears throat] unwanted [7:18] inflammation and driving [7:19] post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. [7:21] It's also notoriously offensive to the [7:24] tricky and stubborn pigmentary disorder [7:26] melasma, which is oh so sensitive, oh so [7:29] fickle. Burning, redness, stinging, and [7:32] sensitivity are telltale clues that you [7:34] should probably back down on the [7:35] frequency and overall extent of [7:37] exfoliation. One of the biggest issues [7:39] that people can run into, even [7:41] unknowingly, is stacking multiple [7:42] exfoliants. This is where you can really [7:44] get into a situation where you basically [7:46] start over exfoliating. For example, you [7:49] don't need to shave your face and then [7:50] apply a glycolic acid toner, follow it [7:53] up with a salicylic acid cream. All of [7:56] those things can come together and [7:58] really just cause too much irritation [8:00] for you. Regardless of if it's [8:01] exfoliating or some other approach to [8:04] your skin care routine, always remember [8:06] the principle that the more products you [8:08] use, the greater the likelihood of skin [8:10] irritation. Don't forget to moisturize [8:12] your skin. People underestimate the [8:15] value of moisturizing, not just for your [8:18] skin barrier, staying hydrated not [8:20] becoming dry and flaky, but for helping [8:23] your skin will not become dry and flaky. [8:25] In other words, helping it to turn over [8:28] more normally and not need to be [8:29] exfoliated. When the water content in [8:32] your skin drops, the enzymes that [8:34] maintain the barrier, they don't [8:35] function well. At that lower water [8:37] content, stuff does not shed [8:39] efficiently. It's like dry, caked on [8:42] there, and you start to get rough [8:43] texture, flakiness, dry patches. But [8:47] when you consistently moisturize and you [8:49] keep water content to a good level in [8:52] the outermost layers of the skin, those [8:54] processes go along much more smoothly [8:57] and well, you don't get this build-up of [8:59] dry rough skin texture. Regularly [9:01] moisturizing helps to improve the [9:03] appearance of the skin and keep it [9:04] smooth and also help to lighten the [9:06] appearance of unwanted pigmentation [9:08] through light scattering. I draw your [9:10] attention to this because where I see [9:12] people going wrong the most is they [9:14] might run into a situation where they [9:15] develop patches of dry flaky skin and [9:18] they immediately reach for some sort of [9:20] exfoliating product. When really what [9:22] they should be doing is using [9:23] moisturizing ingredients to deal with [9:25] the flakiness because flakiness is a [9:27] sign that your skin is attempting to [9:29] exfoliate exfoliate away stuff. Trying [9:33] to exfoliate more exfoliation just leads [9:35] to, well, more barrier issues for you. [9:38] For example, if you develop a lot of [9:40] peeling with topical tretinoin, which is [9:42] common, especially in the beginning, I [9:44] don't suggest reaching for an exfoliant [9:46] to deal with those flakes, but rather [9:48] reach for a little mineral oil or facial [9:51] oil of your choosing and rub it over the [9:53] flakes to help them to slough off, but [9:56] at the same time the oil is lubricating [9:59] the surface of the skin and helping to a [10:01] certain extent with moisture retention. [10:03] And then, once you have done that with [10:05] the oil and the skin is a little [10:06] smoother, you don't have so many flakes [10:08] clumped up, then your moisturizer will [10:09] go on much better, you know, on top of [10:12] skin that is no longer flaky, and it'll [10:14] help lock in hydration and cut down on [10:16] that dryness and flaking that you [10:18] experience with topical retinoid. [10:19] Whereas, if instead of doing that, you [10:21] choose to use an alpha hydroxy acid or [10:24] some sort of scrub, it'll loosen and [10:26] remove those flakes, but it'll cause [10:29] more flaking as as it does that, and [10:31] that's not what you want in this [10:33] situation. Another thing that comes up a [10:35] lot is that women in their 40s and [10:37] beyond are told you need to start [10:40] exfoliating. It is a must do. And there [10:43] is good reason behind that [10:44] recommendation because with menopause, a [10:46] few things happen. You have a decline in [10:48] estrogen, and that affects your skin [10:51] quite a bit. Your skin starts to lose [10:52] water more readily because it no longer [10:55] produces the natural moisturizing [10:56] factors as robustly. Barrier function [10:59] becomes compromised, and the epidermis [11:01] and dermis, they do start to thin, [11:03] leading to even more water loss. And [11:05] therefore, well, you run into that [11:07] situation where you get that build-up of [11:09] dry, rough skin texture because you have [11:11] a drop in water content due to a decline [11:14] in natural moisturizing factors and [11:16] barrier function. So, first and [11:18] foremost, when it comes to the needs of [11:20] postmenopausal skin, aging skin, [11:23] moisturizer becomes even more important [11:25] for most women. On top of moisturizer, [11:28] which I already highlighted, directly [11:30] benefits the exfoliation processes, [11:32] ultimately cutting down on the need to [11:34] exfoliate. Some women do find that they [11:36] really do benefit quite a bit from [11:38] introducing an alpha hydroxy acid in [11:41] particular for aging skin for a few [11:44] reasons. This chemical exfoliant [11:45] improves water content because that [11:47] baseline it is a humectant, but it also [11:50] helps to loosen and shed those outer [11:53] flaking dry cell heaps. And depending on [11:56] the overall formulation, it can also [11:59] help to improve the thickness of the [12:00] skin. But other women will not be able [12:02] to tolerate more frequent or more [12:04] aggressive or more intentional [12:05] exfoliation. Many women deal with the [12:08] skin condition rosacea and over [12:10] exfoliating can of course make that [12:12] worse. What should you do if you have [12:14] developed over exfoliation? Well, stop [12:16] using exfoliating products for a period [12:18] of time, reach for thicker, richer [12:20] moisturizing creams, barrier creams to [12:22] help the barrier get back on track. You [12:24] may elect to use a hydrating serum or [12:26] toner with anti-inflammatory ingredients [12:28] like niacinamide fruit to soothe the [12:31] sensitivity. After a few weeks of just [12:33] keeping the routine very simple, [12:35] cleanse, moisturize, and moisturizing [12:37] sunscreen during the day, you'll likely [12:39] find that things turn around pretty [12:41] quickly. All right, y'all, if you're [12:42] looking for a simple answer as to how [12:44] often you need to exfoliate, you're not [12:46] going to find it here because it varies [12:48] from person to person and their given [12:50] life circumstance. Some people do not [12:52] need to exfoliate at all, whereas others [12:54] find it to be particularly beneficial [12:56] for reasons I have outlined today. If [12:58] your skin is comfortable, your barrier [13:00] is fine, you don't feel like you have [13:02] dry rough skin texture, then if it's not [13:04] broken, don't fix it. This is one of the [13:06] biggest pitfalls of our modern landscape [13:09] of extensive skin care product choices. [13:11] While it's great to have more variety, [13:14] more options, more unique ingredients, [13:16] targeted ingredients, accessible price [13:18] points, it comes at a cost to our skin [13:21] barrier because it tempts us to try out [13:23] things that we wouldn't have otherwise [13:25] bothered with back before all of this [13:27] was available and that we don't really [13:30] need and it can backfire. When it comes [13:32] to exfoliation, more isn't better. The [13:35] goal is to do just what you need and you [13:38] might be doing all that you need right [13:40] now. Okay guys, I hope today's video was [13:42] helpful in clarifying this tricky topic [13:45] with regards to skin care routines and [13:47] exfoliation. It is difficult to predict [13:50] how exfoliating will go for any one [13:52] person but hopefully the points made [13:54] today's video help you guys out. On the [13:56] end slide I'm going to put one of my [13:58] recent videos all about the alpha [14:00] hydroxy acid glycolic acid versus lactic [14:03] acid salt ammonium lactate such as what [14:06] is found in AmLactin lotion. Definitely [14:08] check that out because I do a comparison [14:10] of the two ingredients and how they [14:12] compare for the purposes of aging mature [14:15] skin. So, check that video out next if [14:17] you missed it but if you enjoyed today's [14:19] video, give it a thumbs up, share it [14:20] with your friends and as always don't [14:22] forget sunscreen and subscribe. I'll [14:24] talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye. [14:42] >> [music]