REMEDY Adds Derivative to Claim 15% Azelaic Strength, Dr Dray Says

Dr Dray

REMEDY's $25 serum cannot substitute for prescription medicine because its 15% complex relies on an unproven azelaic derivative that lacks clinical trial evidence for acne or rosacea.

AI-assisted summary of REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Review: Is It Really 15%? — original source. Check the original for full context.

Source published: 2026-09-30

Key ideas

REMEDY's 15% Azelaic Acid Complex achieves its advertised percentage by pairing 10% pure azelaic acid with 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate (azeloglycine), meaning it is not a 15% pure azelaic acid medication. (0:35)
In the United States, over-the-counter cosmetic azelaic acid is capped at 10% and restricted to cosmetic claims, whereas clinically proven treatments for acne, rosacea, and melasma require 15% to 20% prescription-strength formulations. (0:35)
Scientific evidence for potassium azeloyl diglycinate remains weak, with existing rosacea trials lacking vehicle controls and zero clinical data evaluating its performance on acne or hyperpigmentation. (2:37)
Dr. Dray discontinued testing the serum after two weeks due to recurrent eyelid dryness and facial itching triggered by the azeloglycine derivative, opting instead for the similarly priced ($25) Anua 10% Azelaic Acid Serum. (7:12)

Detailed notes

## Background Published by dermatologist Dr. Dray on YouTube on September 30, 2026, this video reviews the REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Advanced Clarifying Serum. According to the description, Dr. Dray examines the product's formulation—explaining that it contains 10% azelaic acid combined with 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate rather than true 15% azelaic acid—while assessing its clinical backing, comparing it to Anua's 10% serum, and sharing her own testing results.

## TL;DR Dr. Dray clarifies that the serum is a cosmetic product capped at 10% azelaic acid with an added 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate derivative, warning consumers not to mistake it for prescription-strength medication. She highlights supportive ingredients like niacinamide, beta-glucan, and vitamin B12, but notes that potassium azeloyl diglycinate lacks strong controlled clinical evidence for acne or hyperpigmentation. Dr. Dray experienced eyelid dryness and facial itching after two weeks of use—a personal sensitivity she attributes to the derivative—leading her to stop testing. While she considers the $25 price point reasonable and the formula suitable for cosmetic maintenance, she personally prefers the Anua 10% Azelaic Acid Serum and emphasizes that cosmetic serums cannot replace proven treatments for diagnosed skin conditions.

## Atmosphere & style The presentation is marked by Dr. Dray's signature calm, pragmatic, and authoritative clinical demeanor, blending consumer advocacy with rigorous dermatologic critique. Her delivery is refreshingly candid as she demystifies skincare marketing claims without veering into hyperbole, maintaining a level-headed and educational tone throughout. Watching the video feels like an intimate, transparent consultation with an objective expert who thoughtfully separates physiological science and personal adverse reactions from commercial hype.

## Bulletin - [00:35](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=35s) REMEDY's 15% Azelaic Acid Complex achieves its advertised percentage by pairing 10% pure azelaic acid with 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate (azeloglycine), meaning it is not a 15% pure azelaic acid medication. - [00:35](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=35s) In the United States, over-the-counter cosmetic azelaic acid is capped at 10% and restricted to cosmetic claims, whereas clinically proven treatments for acne, rosacea, and melasma require 15% to 20% prescription-strength formulations. - [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) Scientific evidence for potassium azeloyl diglycinate remains weak, with existing rosacea trials lacking vehicle controls and zero clinical data evaluating its performance on acne or hyperpigmentation. - [07:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=432s) Dr. Dray discontinued testing the serum after two weeks due to recurrent eyelid dryness and facial itching triggered by the azeloglycine derivative, opting instead for the similarly priced ($25) Anua 10% Azelaic Acid Serum.

## Key takeaways - [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=0s) The REMEDY serum retails for around $25 and combines 10% azelaic acid with 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate to market a '15% azelaic acid complex'. - [00:35](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=35s) Cosmetic azelaic acid in the US is legally limited to 10% concentration and cannot make medical claims to treat acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation. - [00:35](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=35s) Prescription-strength azelaic acid (15%–20%) possesses robust clinical trial backing for treating skin diseases, whereas cosmetic formulations are limited to improving appearance and soothing redness. - [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) Potassium azeloyl diglycinate cannot be clinically equated to pure azelaic acid, and adding 5% of this derivative does not match the efficacy of a 15% prescription formulation. - [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) The primary clinical study on 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate lacked a placebo vehicle control, leaving it unproven whether patient symptom relief stemmed from the derivative or merely the moisturizing base. - [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) There are currently no clinical trials evaluating potassium azeloyl diglycinate for the treatment of acne or hyperpigmentation. - [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) Dr. Dray suggests marketing the formula as a '15% complex' is clever branding that may mislead consumers into believing they are purchasing medication-strength azelaic acid. - [05:54](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=354s) Niacinamide is included to support skin barrier integrity, soothe inflammation, and inhibit melanosome transfer to improve uneven pigmentation. - [05:54](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=354s) The formulation incorporates vitamin B12 and beta-glucan to calm inflammation and help mitigate the transient stinging and itching frequently triggered by azelaic acid. - [05:54](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=354s) Botanical extracts such as centella asiatica, licorice root, and green tea provide additional antioxidant and anti-redness support. - [07:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=432s) Dr. Dray stopped using the serum after two weeks due to eyelid dryness and facial itching, noting she has experienced the same reaction from other products containing potassium azeloyl diglycinate. - [07:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=432s) Dr. Dray clarifies that her adverse reaction is a personal ingredient sensitivity and does not mean the product is unsafe or ineffective for other users. - [08:23](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=503s) There is no comparative clinical evidence showing that pairing 10% azelaic acid with potassium azeloyl diglycinate provides superior results over a standard 10% azelaic acid formulation. - [09:26](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=566s) Dr. Dray prefers the similarly priced Anua 10% Azelaic Acid Serum, which shares core soothing botanicals but omits potassium azeloyl diglycinate and vitamin B12. - [10:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=645s) Consumers should evaluate the REMEDY serum strictly as a cosmetic maintenance product for skin tone and redness rather than a substitute for prescription medical treatments.

## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=0s) REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Introduction

Dr. Dray introduces the REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Advanced Clarifying Serum, a product retailing for roughly $25 whether bought directly through REMEDY's site or from Amazon. She points out that $25 is the standard going rate across nearly all REMEDY serums, most of which she has already reviewed on her channel.

Right off the bat, she issues a major clarification: while the product is boldly marketed as a "15% azelaic acid complex," it is **not** a 15% azelaic acid serum. In the United States, cosmetic formulations are legally capped at a maximum of 10% azelaic acid. She emphasizes that pure azelaic acid is a genuinely useful dermatologic ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory properties, its ability to regulate keratinization in the epidermis, and its impact on pigment production. However, there is a strict divide between cosmetic claims and prescription medicine:

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Comparison of Cosmetic vs Prescription Azelaic Acid accDescr: Chart contrasting cosmetic 10 percent formulas against 15 to 20 percent prescription treatments.

subgraph Cosmetic["Cosmetic Formulations (Max 10%)"] C1["Available Over the Counter (~$25)"] C2["Improves Appearance & Skin Tone"] C3["Calms Skin Redness"] C4["Cannot Legally Claim to Treat Diseases"] end

subgraph Rx["Prescription Formulations (15% – 20%)"] R1["Requires Prescription / DTC Clinic in US"] R2["Clinically Proven to Treat Acne"] R3["Clinically Proven to Treat Rosacea"] R4["Clinically Proven to Treat Melasma & Hyperpigmentation"] end ```

- In the US, prescription-strength formulations range between 15% and 20% and must be obtained via a doctor or direct-to-consumer telehealth platforms (though they are sold over the counter in some other countries). - Cosmetic products (10% strength) can only legally claim to improve the general look of the skin, even out skin tone, or soothe mild redness. - Cosmetic products cannot legally claim to *treat* acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or melasma, because 10% has never been clinically established in trials to treat those medical diseases. - Consumers should not mistake the "15%" label on this bottle for an affordable prescription substitute: "They're not the same thing, okay? This is not intended to treat a skin disease and it's not 15% azelaic acid."

---

[02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate Explained

Dr. Dray pulls back the curtain on how REMEDY arrives at the "15% complex" claim: the formula combines 10% azelaic acid with 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate (often referred to as azeloglycine), an azelaic acid derivative. While derived from azelaic acid, this ingredient is far less researched. Dr. Dray evaluates a notable trial published in the *Journal of Dermatologic Treatment*, where patients presenting primarily with rosacea-associated erythema and telangiectasias used a topical cream containing 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate twice daily for 12 weeks. While investigators reported reductions in stinging and burning, Dr. Dray emphasizes that the study suffers from critical methodological limitations.

Chief among these limitations is the complete lack of a placebo or vehicle control. "You don't just put pure potassium azeloyl diglycinate on the skin, sprinkle it on like a salt shaker," she explains; it must be delivered within a topical moisturizing base. Without testing the identical vehicle base without the active, it is impossible to know whether the soothing of sensitive skin was driven by the derivative itself or merely by moisturizing the skin barrier. Furthermore, the trial compared patients only against their own baseline, and all subjects had already been treated previously with established medical therapies like topical azelaic acid or metronidazole.

There are currently zero clinical studies evaluating potassium azeloyl diglycinate for acne or hyperpigmentation. Dr. Dray expresses skepticism about its role in the serum, remarking: "I think they put it in there because they believe it might help. I also think they put it in there because azelaic acid complex sounds like azelaic acid and it sounds like, 'Oh wow, this is 15%. I'm getting more like a medication strength.' A little sneaky."

- Potassium azeloyl diglycinate lacks any robust evidence demonstrating added benefit over 10% azelaic acid alone. - It cannot be mathematically or clinically substituted for pure azelaic acid to claim a 15% therapeutic effect. - The only clinical data available evaluates rosacea sensitivity symptoms in an uncontrolled, non-placebo vehicle study.

---

[05:54](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=354s) Niacinamide, Beta Glucan, Vitamin B12 & Botanicals

Turning to the remainder of the ingredient list, Dr. Dray highlights what she calls "the workhorse of the skin care industry" that nobody can escape: niacinamide. For those who tolerate it—including Dr. Dray herself—niacinamide is an excellent supportive ingredient that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and blocks the melanosome transfer from melanocytes into surrounding epidermal keratinocytes to help brighten uneven tone.

The rest of the formula features soothing, hydrating, and antioxidant agents that complement skin clarity: - **Beta-glucan:** Provides intense hydration and barrier support. - **Vitamin B12:** Included for its emerging topical evidence in reducing inflammation and easing cutaneous itch—an especially clever addition given that azelaic acid frequently triggers transient tingling and itching upon application. - **Centella Asiatica Extract:** Offers antioxidant defense and calms irritation. - **Licorice Root Extract:** A well-regarded botanical often utilized to combat redness and uneven pigmentation. - **Green Tea Extract:** Delivers soothing polyphenol antioxidant protection.

Dr. Dray summarizes the overall formula as thoughtful and logical on paper for anyone seeking general improvements in clarity and tone while mitigating background redness, assuming the skin tolerates all components well.

---

[07:12](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=432s) Dr. Dray's Personal Experience and Product Evaluation

Sharing her hands-on testing experience, Dr. Dray reveals that after a couple of weeks of use, she developed noticeable eyelid dryness and persistent facial itching. This reaction mirrors previous experiences she has had with other skincare products formulated with potassium azeloyl diglycinate. While pure azelaic acid is notorious for inducing temporary tingling or itchiness, she notes that in her personal case, prolonged itching and eyelid dermatitis have consistently surfaced only when using products with the potassium azeloyl diglycinate derivative.

Because of this flare-up, she stopped using the serum after two weeks and was unable to evaluate its long-term benefits for skin clarity or tone. She is careful to remind viewers that her personal reaction does not classify the serum as bad or unsafe: individual sensitivities vary greatly, and this simply marks the second time that this specific derivative has disagreed with her skin.

Reflecting on the product as a whole, Dr. Dray considers the $25 price point quite fair for an elegant, multi-ingredient 10% azelaic acid serum packed with supportive soothers. However, the core question remains whether the 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate provides any real functional advantage, or whether it simply exists to help the product stand out in a saturated market and justify the "15%" label on the front of the box. Currently, there is a total void of head-to-head clinical data proving that combining 10% azelaic acid with this derivative outperforms standard 10% azelaic acid formulations, nor is there evidence showing cosmetic 10% formulas match prescription strengths for clinical efficacy.

[09:26](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=566s) REMEDY vs. Anua 10% Azelaic Acid Serum

While cosmetic azelaic acid products are popular, there is still no robust clinical evidence that a 10% strength can actually treat medical dermatological conditions like acne, rosacea, melasma, or hyperpigmentation in the way prescription formulations do. When choosing an over-the-counter option, Dr. Dray personally prefers, frequently buys, and enjoys the Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Serum. She has reviewed the Anua serum previously and even addressed viewer concerns raised on TikTok regarding a rumored formulation change; she covered that in a dedicated video detailing why the change is not a concern for her.

Comparing the two formulations, Anua shares a very similar core botanical and brightening profile—featuring niacinamide, licorice root, and centella asiatica—but it omits both potassium azeloyl diglycinate and vitamin B12. For Dr. Dray's skin, the Anua formula simply performs better. Both serums retail in roughly the same price ballpark around $25, give or take a dollar depending on the retailer. While Dr. Dray sticks with Anua, she emphasizes that both serums are very good formulas. The REMEDY serum could easily become a "holy grail" for consumers who are already fans of the REMEDY brand, tolerate its ingredients well, and want to incorporate azelaic acid into their regimen.

---

[10:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=645s) Final Verdict: Cosmetic Benefits vs. Medical Treatments

From an objective standpoint, Dr. Dray notes that science cannot yet confirm what the addition of potassium azeloyl diglycinate truly offers to consumers beyond standard azelaic acid, nor how this hybrid cosmetic formula compares to prescription-strength medications. Consequently, shoppers should not rely on this serum—or any cosmetic-grade azelaic acid—as a primary treatment for diagnosed skin disorders like active acne, rosacea, melasma, or deep hyperpigmentation. Those seeking to resolve medical skin issues are far better served by evidence-based prescription treatments. Instead, the REMEDY serum should be viewed strictly through the lens of cosmetic maintenance: soothing the skin and improving overall skin tone evenness.

Regarding her own adverse reaction, Dr. Dray clarifies that experiencing eyelid dryness and itching from potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a recurring sensitivity for her personally: "It's a me issue. It's not necessarily a REMEDY azelaic acid serum issue." She encourages viewers who tolerate the ingredients to consider it, especially if they already enjoy the REMEDY lineup. She concludes by directing viewers to her previous review of another REMEDY serum, reminding everyone to like, share, subscribe, and wear their sunscreen.

## Notable quotes > [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=0s) 15% azelaic acid complex — Dr. Dray

> [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=0s) They're not the same thing, okay? This is not intended to treat a skin disease and it's not 15% azelaic acid. — Dr. Dray

> [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) You don't just put pure potassium azeloyl diglycinate on the skin, sprinkle it on like a salt shaker — Dr. Dray

> [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) I think they put it in there because they believe it might help. I also think they put it in there because azelaic acid complex sounds like azelaic acid and it sounds like, 'Oh wow, this is 15%. I'm getting more like a medication strength.' A little sneaky. — Dr. Dray

> [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) Oh wow, this is 15%. I'm getting more like a medication strength. — Dr. Dray

> [02:37](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=157s) A little sneaky. — Dr. Dray

> [05:54](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=354s) the workhorse of the skin care industry — Dr. Dray

> [09:26](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=566s) holy grail — Dr. Dray

> [10:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k&t=645s) It's a me issue. It's not necessarily a REMEDY azelaic acid serum issue. — Dr. Dray

## Mentioned Dr. Dray, REMEDY, REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Advanced Clarifying Serum, Anua, Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Serum, Journal of Dermatologic Treatment, Amazon, TikTok, Azelaic acid, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Azeloglycine, Niacinamide, Beta-glucan, Vitamin B12, Centella asiatica, Licorice root, Green tea extract, Metronidazole

## Video description Dermatologist Dr. Dray reviews the REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Advanced Clarifying Serum, a $25 skincare serum marketed as containing a 15% azelaic acid complex. But there is an important distinction: this is not a 15% azelaic acid serum. The formula contains 10% azelaic acid plus 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate, also known as azeloglycine. Dr. Dray breaks down what is known about these ingredients, how potassium azeloyl diglycinate compares with azelaic acid, and whether this combination offers meaningful benefits over a traditional 10% azelaic acid product. The video also covers the evidence for azelaic acid in acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation, the limited clinical evidence for potassium azeloyl diglycinate, and the other ingredients in the formula, including niacinamide, beta glucan, vitamin B12, centella asiatica, licorice root, and green tea extract. Dr. Dray also shares her personal experience using the REMEDY serum. After a couple of weeks, she developed eyelid dryness and facial itching and discontinued the product. She notes that this is her individual experience and does not mean everyone will experience irritation. The video also compares the REMEDY serum with the Anua 10% Azelaic Acid Serum, which Dr. Dray personally uses and repurchases. The two products have a similar overall concept and price range, but the Anua serum does not contain potassium azeloyl diglycinate or vitamin B12. Most importantly, Dr. Dray explains why “15% azelaic acid complex” does not mean 15% azelaic acid, and why consumers should not assume that 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate is equivalent to an additional 5% azelaic acid. She also discusses why she would like to see prescription-strength azelaic acid become available over the counter in the United States, given its versatility in dermatology and established history of use.

Products Mentioned Remedy 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Advanced Clarifying Serum https://amzlink.to/az0M7w6trRrcB Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Serum https://amzlink.to/az0DaPVjUyYmq

Timestamps 0:00 REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex Introduction 0:35 What Does 10% Azelaic Acid Actually Do? 2:37 Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate Explained 5:54 Niacinamide, Beta Glucan, Vitamin B12 & Botanicals 7:12 Dr. Dray's Experience With the Serum 8:23 Is the $25 Price Worth It? 9:35 REMEDY vs. Anua 10% Azelaic Acid 11:27 Final Thoughts

Keywords: azelaic acid, azelaic acid serum, 10% azelaic acid, 15% azelaic acid, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, azeloglycine, REMEDY azelaic acid, REMEDY 15% Azelaic Acid Complex, Anua azelaic acid, azelaic acid for acne, azelaic acid for rosacea, azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation, dermatologist skincare review, azelaic acid review, best azelaic acid serum, prescription azelaic acid, cosmetic azelaic acid

#AzelaicAcid #AzelaicAcidSerum #remedyskincare #Acne #Rosacea #Hyperpigmentation #SkincareReview #Dermatologist #DrDray FTC: This video is not sponsored. Links are commissionable, meaning I may earn commission from purchases made through links.

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Disclaimer: This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this Youtube channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this Youtube channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.

[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtnlMdbZW4k)

中文简报

Dray称Remedy复配5%衍生物以模拟处方级壬二酸 Remedy的护肤复合物依赖于一种研究不足且缺乏临床证据的衍生物，无法替代治疗痤疮或玫瑰痤疮的处方疗法。 Dr Dray剖析了REMEDY精华的营销手法，解释称化妆品法规对非处方壬二酸设有10%的法定上限，这意味着其宣传的“15%复合物”依靠的是5%的壬二酸二钾（PAD），而非处方级强度的壬二酸。她批评了支持PAD的证据有限且在方法学上存在缺陷，并审视了配方中的辅助成分，包括烟酰胺、β-葡聚糖和舒缓植物成分。在试用期间出现眼睑干燥和面部发痒后（她将这种个人敏感反应归因于PAD），她停用了该产品，并将其与自己耐受良好且偏爱的Anua 10%精华进行了对比。最终，她告诫观众，在治疗痤疮、玫瑰痤疮或黄褐斑等病症时，化妆品精华无法替代经临床验证的处方疗法。 REMEDY的15%壬二酸复合物精华并不含15%纯壬二酸；它是将10%壬二酸与5%壬二酸二钾（PAD）复配，以符合美国化妆品10%的法定上限。 (0:00) 壬二酸二钾的临床证据依然薄弱，仅依赖一项存在重大方法学局限且无对照的玫瑰痤疮研究，且在痤疮或色素沉着方面没有任何已发表的验证证据。 (2:37) 该配方具备完善的辅助成分组合，包括烟酰胺、β-葡聚糖、甘草根、绿茶、积雪草以及外用维生素B12，以缓解壬二酸引起的瘙痒。 (5:54) Dr. Dray在试用两周后因眼睑干燥和面部发痒而停用该精华，她认为这一反应与个人对壬二酸二钾敏感有关。 (7:12) 在25美元的同等价位下，Dr. Dray更推荐Anua的10%壬二酸精华，该产品未添加PAD和维生素B12，但能提供相当的舒缓植物成分且不会引发刺激。 (9:26)

Reading summary

Dr. Dray clarifies that REMEDY's serum is not a prescription-strength 15% azelaic acid product, but rather a cosmetic 10% formulation blended with 5% of a less-researched derivative. While she finds the supporting formula well-designed for general skin tone maintenance, she cautions that cosmetic products cannot legally or clinically substitute for medical treatments. Cosmetic Limits and the 15% Claim (0:00) Although marketed under a "15% azelaic acid complex" label, the REMEDY serum contains only 10% pure azelaic acid. Dr. Dray points out that United States regulations cap over-the-counter cosmetic azelaic acid at 10%. Genuine 15% to 20% formulations are classified as prescription medicines clinically proven to manage dermatologic conditions like acne, rosacea, and melasma. Cosmetic 10% formulations are legally restricted to claims regarding improving skin appearance, evening tone, and soothing mild redness. Because 10% azelaic acid has not been clinically established in trials to treat medical skin disorders, Dr. Dray emphasizes that consumers should not treat this $25 cosmetic serum as an over-the-counter replacement for prescription medication. Methodological Gaps in Azeloglycine Research (2:37) The serum achieves its "15% complex" branding by pairing 10% azelaic acid with 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate, a derivative with limited scientific backing. Dr. Dray reviews a 12-week study in the Journal of Dermatologic Treatment evaluating a 5% potassium azeloyl diglycinate cream in rosacea patients. While stinging and burning decreased, the trial lacked a vehicle or placebo control, making it impossible to determine whether symptom relief came from the derivative itself or the hydrating base formulation. Furthermore, there are no clinical trials investigating potassium azeloyl diglycinate for acne or hyperpigmentation. Dr. Dray views the combination as a marketing tactic to evoke prescription-level potency, noting there is no clinical evidence that this hybrid provides added benefit over standard 10% azelaic acid alone. Supporting Barrier and Anti-Inflammatory Ingredients (5:54) Beyond the active complex, Dr. Dray highlights a supportive ingredient blend aimed at improving clarity and barrier function. The formula includes niacinamide to reinforce the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes into epidermal keratinocytes. Additional soothing agents include beta-glucan for deep hydration, along with green tea, licorice root, and centella asiatica extracts for antioxidant defense and redness reduction. The formula also incorporates vitamin B12, an emerging ingredient for relieving topical itch and irritation that Dr. Dray notes could help offset the tingling sensations commonly provoked by pure azelaic acid. Personal Sensitivity and the Anua Alternative (7:12) During testing, Dr. Dray discontinued the serum after two weeks due to facial itching and eyelid dryness, a recurring sensitivity she attributes specifically to potassium azeloyl diglycinate rather than standard azelaic acid. She emphasizes that her adverse reaction represents an individual sensitivity rather than an inherent safety flaw in the serum. For a 10% cosmetic option, Dr. Dray prefers the Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Serum, which retails for a comparable $25. While Anua shares core botanicals like centella, licorice root, and niacinamide, it excludes vitamin B12 and potassium azeloyl diglycinate. Dr. Dray considers both products well-formulated, suggesting REMEDY remains a viable cosmetic option for consumers who tolerate all ingredients. Dr. Dray concludes that while the REMEDY serum offers a solid cosmetic formula at an accessible $25 price, current evidence does not demonstrate that potassium azeloyl diglycinate enhances clinical efficacy. Shoppers seeking treatment for diagnosed conditions such as acne, rosacea, or melasma should rely on evidence-based prescription therapies rather than cosmetic complexes.

Source quotes

[0:00] Dr. Dray: 15% azelaic acid complex [0:00] Dr. Dray: They're not the same thing, okay? This is not intended to treat a skin disease and it's not 15% azelaic acid. [2:37] Dr. Dray: You don't just put pure potassium azeloyl diglycinate on the skin, sprinkle it on like a salt shaker [2:37] Dr. Dray: I think they put it in there because they believe it might help. I also think they put it in there because azelaic acid complex sounds like azelaic acid and it sounds like, 'Oh wow, this is 15%. I'm getting more like a medication strength.' A little sneaky. [2:37] Dr. Dray: Oh wow, this is 15%. I'm getting more like a medication strength. [2:37] Dr. Dray: A little sneaky. [5:54] Dr. Dray: the workhorse of the skin care industry [9:26] Dr. Dray: holy grail [10:45] Dr. Dray: It's a me issue. It's not necessarily a REMEDY azelaic acid serum issue.

Original transcript

[0:00] Well, hey guys. Welcome back. If you're [0:01] new here, I'm Dr. Dray. I'm a [0:03] board-certified dermatologist and in [0:05] this video, I'm going to be reviewing [0:06] for you Reme D's new 15% azelaic acid [0:10] complex advanced clarifying serum. We're [0:12] going to talk about what is in this [0:14] ingredient-wise. I'm going to talk about [0:16] my personal experience testing it out. [0:19] This is a serum that retails for about [0:21] $25 whether you're buying it directly [0:23] from the brand or somewhere like Amazon, [0:25] for example. Um around $25, which is the [0:28] going rate for pretty much all the [0:30] serums from and if you're curious, I [0:32] have reviews of most of them at this [0:34] point. Right off the bat, I want to [0:35] point out this says 15% azelaic acid [0:38] complex, but this is not 15% azelaic [0:41] acid, okay? It's 10% azelaic acid as is [0:44] the case for most cosmetic formulations. [0:47] Cosmetics in the United States with [0:49] azelaic acid max are going to have 10%, [0:52] but azelaic acid is a really useful [0:54] dermatologic ingredient, [0:55] anti-inflammatory, and it can have some [0:57] beneficial effects on keratinization in [0:59] the dermis as well as pigment [1:02] production. Now, prescription strengths [1:04] of azelaic acid can actually treat skin [1:07] conditions, namely acne, rosacea, [1:09] hyperpigmentation, and melasma. [1:12] Prescription strengths, however, are [1:13] going to be anywhere from 15 to 20% and [1:16] those are available by prescription or [1:18] through a direct-to-consumer website, at [1:20] least here in the United States. Other [1:22] countries, you can get those medication [1:25] strengths over the counter without a [1:27] prescription. We'll get more into that [1:28] towards the end of the video. But, what [1:30] this ingredient can offer at the [1:31] cosmetic strengths is, well, it can [1:34] improve the look of the skin, okay? [1:36] That's the kind of claim that one can [1:37] make with 10% azelaic acid versus actual [1:41] 15%. 10% azelaic acid could improve the [1:44] appearance of uneven skin tone, maybe [1:46] calm the skin, but it's not okay to say [1:50] that 10% azelaic acid treats acne, [1:53] treats rosacea, treats [1:55] hyperpigmentation, treats melasma [1:57] Because 10% is not established to treat [2:01] any of those things, the research that [2:03] we have showing that azelaic acid treats [2:06] skin diseases shows that 15% and higher, [2:09] cuz that's what's been examined, are the [2:11] strengths that treat those conditions. [2:13] No one's really tested this cosmetic [2:15] strength that you're coming across in [2:16] products, okay? So, in other words, if [2:19] you are someone with one of these skin [2:20] conditions and you come across this [2:23] serum from Remedi, don't just see the [2:24] 15% and think, "Oh great, I can buy this [2:27] now, um you know, on Amazon or from [2:29] Remedi. I don't have to get a [2:30] prescription." They're not the same [2:32] thing, okay? This is not intended to [2:34] treat a skin disease and it's not 15% [2:36] azelaic acid. How do they get away with [2:38] calling it a 15% azelaic acid complex? [2:42] Well, the complex has to do with the [2:44] fact that this is 10% azelaic acid plus [2:47] 5% of an ingredient called potassium [2:49] azeloyl diglycinate. What the heck is [2:52] this? This is a derivative of azelaic [2:55] acid. It is much, much, much less [2:57] studied in comparison to azelaic acid, [3:00] however. Um there is an interesting [3:02] study that was published quite a while [3:04] ago in the Journal of Dermatologic [3:05] Treatment that looked at a cream [3:07] containing 5% potassium azeloyl [3:10] diglycinate in people with rosacea, [3:13] okay? People whose rosacea was mostly [3:15] like a lot of redness and prominent [3:17] blood vessels. Individuals in this study [3:19] applied this, um in a topical, twice a [3:22] day for 12 weeks. And the investiga- [3:25] -gators reported at the end of the study [3:27] an improvement in symptoms of stinging [3:30] and burning. But, there are some [3:31] important limitations of this study and [3:32] why you shouldn't assume that this [3:34] ingredient is going to be really good [3:36] for your rosacea per se. What are the [3:38] limitations? Well, there's no placebo, [3:40] okay? Anytime you you put a topical on [3:42] someone's skin and you show a reduction [3:44] in symptoms of sensitivity, burning, [3:46] stinging, you show an improvement in [3:48] anything. You have to prove that the [3:50] improvement that you got is not the [3:52] result of moisturizing the skin, okay? [3:54] Cuz you're putting something on that is [3:56] inherently moisturizing. Uh because you [3:58] don't just put pure potassium azeloyl [4:01] diglycinate on the skin, sprinkle it on [4:03] like a salt shaker. You put it into a [4:06] topical, which is any you know, it's in [4:08] a vehicle. And the vehicles are going to [4:10] be moisturizing, okay? So, you need a [4:12] you need a vehicle control. In other [4:14] words, you need the same exact topical [4:16] without the ingredient of interest in [4:18] it. And you need to compare and [4:20] contrast. The patients were just [4:21] compared with their own baseline. And [4:23] also of importance in this particular [4:25] study, all the patients had a prior [4:27] history of having been already treated [4:30] in the past at least with azelaic acid [4:32] and or metronidazole, another topical [4:36] rosacea treatment. In other words, we [4:38] need to see more studies to really [4:40] substantiate the effects of this [4:42] ingredient on rosacea specifically. And [4:45] we don't have any studies looking at it [4:47] for acne or for hyperpigmentation. In [4:49] other words, I have no objective [4:51] information to give you all with regards [4:53] to what this ingredient in this product [4:55] actually can offer your skin above and [4:57] beyond what the azelaic acid 10% in the [5:00] product was or is offering. Because we [5:03] don't really have good stu- we don't [5:04] have studies like that. This is a [5:06] cosmetic ingredient that's in there, [5:07] okay? I think they put it in there [5:09] because they believe it might help. I [5:11] also think they put it in there because [5:12] azelaic acid complex sounds like azelaic [5:15] acid and it sounds like, "Oh wow, this [5:17] is 15%. I'm I'm getting more like a [5:20] medication strength." A little a little [5:22] sneaky. It's still a 10% azelaic acid [5:25] serum, okay? And nothing uh about the [5:28] potassium azeloyl diglycinate is [5:30] evidence-based for offering additional [5:33] benefit, okay? Not saying it can't help, [5:35] but I just don't have like a paper to [5:37] give you guys to say, "Look, this is the [5:38] paper that showed that it offered [5:40] additional benefit," okay? Cuz the only [5:42] paper we really have on it clinically [5:43] speaking is one that showed a reduction [5:46] in sensitivity symptoms with rosacea and [5:48] there was no placebo control in there to [5:50] know if that had anything to do actually [5:52] with the ingredient or just putting this [5:53] topical on. What else is going on in [5:55] this? Well, you've got you guessed it, [5:56] the workhorse of the skin care industry. [5:58] If you're new here, you're like, what [6:00] the heck is she talking about? I'm [6:01] talking about niacinamide, that B [6:02] vitamin that you just can't you just [6:04] cannot escape from, okay? Niacinamide is [6:07] fantastic if you tolerate it, which I [6:09] do. I love it. It's great for the [6:11] moisture barrier. It's anti-inflammatory [6:13] and it's great for uneven pigmentation. [6:15] It inhibits the transfer of pigment [6:17] packets in the melanocytes to the [6:18] surrounding keratinocyte cells of the [6:20] epidermis, ultimately helping to clear [6:22] up uneven skin tone, target [6:24] hyperpigmentation. This also has beta [6:26] glucan, which is very moisturizing. It [6:28] has B12 in it, which is interesting [6:30] because there's a little bit of evidence [6:31] that applying B12 topically to the skin [6:33] can have an anti-inflammatory {slash} [6:35] soothing effect and actually potentially [6:37] be very helpful for itch, which, you [6:39] know, if you know anything about azelaic [6:41] acid, it can make the skin a little bit [6:43] itchy in some cases, especially the [6:45] prescription strength. So, makes sense [6:46] that they included that in there. There [6:48] are also several anti-inflammatory, [6:50] antioxidant ingredients, centella [6:52] asiatica extract. You also have licorice [6:54] root, which is known to be good for [6:56] redness as a side note. And then you've [6:58] got green tea extract as well. The [6:59] ingredients are logical as far as a [7:01] product that's going to help improve [7:03] overall skin tone and clarity, help [7:05] lessen redness, perhaps, or also help to [7:08] lessen uneven skin tone, provided you [7:10] tolerate it okay. What was my personal [7:13] experience using this? I actually [7:15] developed dryness on my eyelids and a [7:17] lot of facial itching, which is [7:19] interesting. I have had that happen in [7:21] the past with other products that [7:23] contain the potassium azeloyl [7:26] diglycinate, but not just azelaic acid, [7:29] which is kind of interesting because [7:31] azelaic acid is can cause dryness and [7:34] itch of the skin. A lot of people report [7:36] that. But for me, I have only ever [7:38] encountered that myself personally with [7:41] products that contain potassium azeloyl [7:44] diglycinate. Because I developed facial [7:47] itch irritation, I stopped using it [7:49] after a couple of weeks, okay? So, I [7:50] really can't give you guys a good idea [7:53] of like how the more long-term benefits [7:55] in skin tone and clarity were with me [7:58] with this product. Keep in mind, me [7:59] developing that doesn't necessarily mean [8:02] that the product is bad per se because [8:04] you can develop that type of reaction to [8:06] pretty much any product. It's going to [8:08] vary depending on the person and the [8:09] product. And for me, there does seem to [8:11] be a bit of a theme with um that [8:13] particular ingredient and me having this [8:15] issue. Um it's not 100%, but it's [8:17] happened now. This will be the second [8:19] time and I attribute it to that and just [8:22] it not agreeing with me. The cost of [8:24] this product is $25. I actually think [8:26] that's pretty reasonable for a topical [8:29] serum with the combination of [8:31] ingredients this has. It's a 10% azelaic [8:34] acid serum with some other soothing [8:36] anti-inflammatory ingredients that can [8:37] help with skin tone. It also has the [8:39] potassium azeloyl diglycinate in there, [8:42] but I can't really speak to what that's [8:44] actually offering this product [8:45] legitimately because there's just not a [8:47] lot of data on it, frankly. The bigger [8:49] question to me here though is just like [8:51] does the addition of the potassium [8:53] azeloyl diglycinate serve to help you or [8:56] does it serve to help make this stand [9:00] out from any of the other 10% azelaic [9:03] acid serums out there on the market? We [9:05] don't have good head-to-head clinical [9:06] data um showing that the combination is [9:09] substantially better than 10% alone. [9:11] Definitely do not have any studies [9:13] comparing the 10% cosmetic strengths of [9:16] azelaic acid to the prescription [9:18] strengths for cosmetic outcomes of [9:21] improving skin tone or for certainly not [9:24] for treatment outcomes, okay? We don't [9:26] have any evidence that the 10% strength [9:28] can actually treat acne, can actually [9:30] treat rosacea, can actually treat [9:32] hyperpigmentation, can actually treat [9:33] melasma like we do the prescription [9:36] strength. For me, personally, I prefer [9:39] use, frequently buy, and enjoy A new at [9:41] 10 as a lake acid serum. I've previously [9:45] reviewed it here, and I've also [9:47] addressed and if some of you guys like [9:48] over on my Tik Tok had a lot of concerns [9:51] about someone pointing out a potential [9:53] formulation change. I addressed that in [9:55] a separate video. So, if that's a [9:56] question that you have, make sure you [9:58] check out that video. I explain in [10:00] detail there why I'm not worried about [10:02] that at all. But, [10:04] for me personally, the A new at one [10:06] works better. It has very similar [10:09] ingredients, but it does not have the [10:10] potassium azelaoyl diglycinate. It [10:13] doesn't have the B12 either, but it's [10:14] got the niacinamide, it's got the [10:16] licorice root, it's got centella in it, [10:18] and I really get along well with that. [10:21] It's still roughly the same price, give [10:22] or take a dollar, depending, you know, [10:24] again, where you're buying it from. So, [10:25] for me, personally, that's going to be [10:27] the one I buy, but they're both very [10:29] good, and, you know, I see the remedy [10:32] one being one that becomes a holy grail [10:35] for people. So, if you're someone who's [10:37] interested in azelaic acid, and you [10:39] already like the brand, you've tried [10:41] some of their other products, and they [10:42] tend to go well for you, you know, I [10:43] definitely think it's worth considering. [10:45] I just can't tell you guys objectively [10:48] A, how the addition of potassium [10:51] azelaoyl diglycinate to this formula, [10:53] what that actually offers you. B, I [10:55] cannot tell you how this objectively [10:58] compares to the medication strengths, [11:01] but I would not rely on this to treat [11:04] skin conditions. I would only choose [11:06] this if you were looking for the [11:07] cosmetic benefits of, you know, soothing [11:10] the skin and improving the overall [11:11] evenness of your skin tone. I would not [11:14] rely on any cosmetic strength to treat [11:16] acne, rosacea, melasma, [11:18] hyperpigmentation. They're just not [11:20] evidence-based to do that. Not to say [11:22] that they couldn't help those [11:23] conditions, but you'd be better served [11:25] by the formulation shown to treat those. [11:28] Me having dryness and irritation from [11:30] potassium azelaoyl diglycinate, that's [11:33] something I've encountered before. It's [11:34] a me issue. It's not necessarily a [11:36] remedy as like acid serum issue. Anyway, [11:39] on the end side I'm going to put my last [11:40] remedy serum review of one of their [11:43] other serums. If you're curious about [11:44] that one, but if you guys enjoyed this [11:46] one, give it a thumbs up, share it with [11:47] your friends, and as always, don't [11:48] forget sunscreen and subscribe. I'll [11:50] talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye. [11:53] >> [music] [12:07] [music]