U-M Study Traces Century of Student Food Activism to 1910s Banquets
University of Michigan
Turn-of-the-century banquets filled an institutional housing void to forge campus belonging, initiating an unbroken century of student-led mobilization that continues to shape university food policy.
Before dormitories predominated at the University of Michigan in the 1910s, severe campus housing shortages forced most students into private rooming houses, turning student-organized multi-course banquets into primary anchors for social connection and belonging. (7:07)
Archival analysis of period cookbooks indicates that serving cake and ice cream together occurred on only three Sundays in an entire domestic year, making the pairing at student banquets an intentional symbol of abundance and luxury. (39:44)
Early campus dining logistics relied directly on Washtenaw County's approximately 3,500 working farms and manual ice-and-salt churns to supply fresh meat, dairy, and seasonal produce before mechanical refrigeration became widespread. (30:39)
Wartime food conservation during WWI—including Meatless Mondays, student-signed loyalty pledges, and female 'farmette' harvesting squads—established a century-long precedent for student-led campus food activism. (44:31)
Detailed notes
## Background
Published on YouTube by the University of Michigan on September 24, 2026, this recording documents a presentation from the 'Making Michigan' lecture series at the Judy & Stanley Frankel Detroit Observatory. Delivered by collegiate lecturer in anthropology Lisa C. Young on September 17, 2026, the lecture examines how student-organized banquets in the early 20th century cultivated identity and community during a period before campus dormitories predominated.
## TL;DR
Drawing from student scrapbooks and archival menus at the Bentley Historical Library, Lisa C. Young investigates how early 20th-century U-M students used multi-course banquets to foster a sense of belonging amidst fragmented boarding house living. The talk details the elaborate course structures, gendered dining norms, local Washtenaw County food sourcing, and the luxurious rarity of serving cake and ice cream together prior to widespread refrigeration. Young also explores wartime food conservation during World War I and traces parallels to modern student-led food sustainability initiatives on campus, concluding with an audience Q&A on campus alcohol geography, gendered campus spaces, and domestic cooking technology.
## Atmosphere & style
The presentation carries a warm, conversational, and collegial atmosphere, blending academic archival inquiry with vivid domestic history and food appreciation. Lisa C. Young engages the audience with approachable humor, candid personal reflections on historical recipes, and genuine fondness for student life across different eras. The resulting experience feels like an inviting community salon, enriched by nostalgic local geography and curious historical details.
## Bulletin
- [07:07](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=427s) Before dormitories predominated at the University of Michigan in the 1910s, severe campus housing shortages forced most students into private rooming houses, turning student-organized multi-course banquets into primary anchors for social connection and belonging.
- [39:44](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2384s) Archival analysis of period cookbooks indicates that serving cake and ice cream together occurred on only three Sundays in an entire domestic year, making the pairing at student banquets an intentional symbol of abundance and luxury.
- [30:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1839s) Early campus dining logistics relied directly on Washtenaw County's approximately 3,500 working farms and manual ice-and-salt churns to supply fresh meat, dairy, and seasonal produce before mechanical refrigeration became widespread.
- [44:31](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2671s) Wartime food conservation during WWI—including Meatless Mondays, student-signed loyalty pledges, and female 'farmette' harvesting squads—established a century-long precedent for student-led campus food activism.
## Key takeaways
- [03:17](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=197s) Anthropological research demonstrates that shared meals serve as foundational human rituals easing life transitions, functioning historically as a key social stabilizer when students entered university life.
- [07:07](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=427s) Campus residential capacity was severely constrained in the 1910s, with dormitories housing only about 20% of female students and Greek houses holding 1,500 students, leaving the majority dependent on rooming houses and fragmented dining options.
- [11:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=705s) Over 120 student scrapbooks preserved at the Bentley Historical Library demonstrate how students curated menus, dance cards, and banquet programs to memorialize their social networks and campus identities.
- [15:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=901s) Student banquets were strictly gender-segregated, with male scrapbooks preserving significantly more programs due to broader representation across professional, academic, and Greek societies.
- [20:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1251s) Banquets were highly choreographed social gatherings featuring multi-course meals, formal toasts, and faculty speakers, providing essential intergenerational mentorship outside the classroom.
- [28:27](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1707s) Menus reflected pronounced gender distinctions and seasonality; beef appeared almost exclusively on men's menus as a masculine luxury, while spring banquets featured fresh local strawberries and early peas over winter canned goods.
- [30:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1839s) Washtenaw County's extensive agricultural landscape, encompassing roughly 3,500 farms, supplied the necessary dairy, meat, and fresh produce for large campus dining events prior to modern refrigerated transit.
- [32:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1959s) The 1915 Women's League 25th Anniversary Luncheon hosted 350 women in Barbour Gymnasium, representing one of the largest non-athletic gatherings on campus and asserting women's collective presence.
- [39:44](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2384s) Comparing banquet records to domestic guides like Sarah Tyson Rorer's Everyday Menu Book reveals that serving cake alongside ice cream was exceptionally rare in home dining, elevating banquet desserts into lavish treats.
- [42:14](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2534s) Serving ice cream before mechanical refrigeration required complex planning and intense labor, relying on wooden tubs packed with ice and salt to preserve desserts for immediate consumption.
- [44:31](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2671s) WWI home-front conservation altered student eating habits through voluntary pledges, rationing, and organized 'farmette' labor brigades to address agricultural workforce shortages.
- [48:05](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2885s) Wartime dietary adaptations established a continuous line of campus food activism that connects early patriotic rationing to modern student sustainability efforts, Meatless Mondays, and the U-M Campus Farm.
- [54:06](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3246s) Local boarding house operators and Black community caterers like Ella Hall played vital backstage roles in preparing elaborate dishes and cakes tailored to campus societies and sororities.
- [01:07:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4059s) Official banquets observed strict temperance, reinforced by campus rules and Ann Arbor's municipal boundary along Division Street, which banned alcohol sales east toward university grounds.
- [01:09:36](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4176s) Dedicated women's social spaces like Barbour Gymnasium and the Michigan League were created through concerted student organizing and fundraising to secure autonomous recreational and dining facilities.
## Detailed walkthrough
### [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=0s) Welcome to "Making Michigan" and the Centrality of Food
Andrew Rutledge, the in-house historian at the Bentley Historical Library, opens the evening's lecture in the series "Making Michigan" at the Judy & Stanley Frankel Detroit Observatory. Acknowledging both in-person and virtual attendees, Rutledge extends thanks to co-sponsor Alumni Association of the University of Michigan Lifelong Learning Program. With the fall semester having kicked off three weeks prior, campus is bustling with over 50,000 students navigating ongoing construction, settling into courses, and forging new friendships—treading paths worn by generations of Wolverines since the university first opened in Ann Arbor in 1841.
Rutledge points out that among the rare constants across this long timeline is the central, communal role played by food. Shared meals—whether conversations over trays in dining halls or late-night snacks with roommates—rank among the most cherished college memories across campuses worldwide. Yet the social structure of these meals has evolved dramatically over time. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, decades before dormitory life became the campus norm, the premier social events of the school year were elaborate, multi-course formal banquets hosted by student organizations. These choreographed gatherings helped instill an enduring sense of belonging and produced a rich archival record preserved at the Bentley.
To unpack this history, Rutledge introduces Lisa C. Young, the Volney H. Jones Collegiate Lecturer in the Department of Anthropology at U-M. Young, who earned her undergraduate degree at Michigan before completing her PhD at the University of Arizona, previously conducted archaeological fieldwork in the American Southwest. She developed a focus on Michigan's institutional food history during the university's bicentennial celebrations, turning archival records into a vibrant research program and curriculum.
[03:17](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=197s) An Archaeologist's View: Shared Meals and Student Belonging
Taking the podium, Professor Lisa Young explains that her presentation represents ongoing research developed through a first-year seminar she has taught in recent years. Emphasizing that the project is an evolving "work in progress," she notes that her current students spent that very day at the Bentley Library analyzing archival banquet menus. While her background is in anthropological archaeology rather than conventional history, she notes that both disciplines require assembling fragmented clues and disparate sources to understand human behavior.
Within anthropology, shared meals are recognized as fundamental to what makes us human. Young uses this lens to prompt her students to connect historical dining to current questions of food systems, campus sustainability, and their own immediate social transitions. Leaving home for college forces students to navigate sudden changes: eating among strangers, coping with dining hall choices, and having food prepared by staff rather than family members. Young shares an observation from one of her first-year students who remarked that when the cafeteria is crowded, "I sit at a table with new people, so I can get to meet them." Young reflects on how dorm dining halls initially scaffold community, recalling a recent Zoom conversation with fellow alumni where complaints about dorm food, "mystery meat," and endless varieties of hamburger gave way to nostalgic recognition of Couzens Hall as their foundational campus gathering spot. That initial communal experience reflects the campus-wide move-in slogan, "you belong here."
[07:07](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=427s) Campus Housing in the 1910s: Dorms, Greek Houses, and Boarding Houses
Young points out that this universal dormitory dining experience did not exist a century ago. The landscape of campus housing was fragmented, raising fundamental questions about where students actually gathered to eat and form communities. In 1915, the university opened its first residential halls—Helen Newberry Hall, followed by Martha Cook Building. Together, however, they accommodated only roughly 200 women, which Young estimates constituted just about 20% of the female student body at the time, leaving thousands of male and female students entirely outside the dorm system.
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Early 20th Century U-M Student Housing Distribution
accDescr: Diagram illustrating where students lived and ate prior to widespread campus dormitories.
Pop["U-M Student Body (Early 20th Century)"]
subgraph HousingTypes["Primary Living & Dining Accommodations"]
Dorms["Early Dormitories (1915)<br/>• Helen Newberry & Martha Cook<br/>• ~200 women only (~20% of female students)"]
Greek["Fraternities & Sororities<br/>• ~50 members per chapter<br/>• ~1,500 students total (1914 Daily estimate)"]
Boarding["Boarding Houses<br/>• e.g., Minnie Wallace's boarding house<br/>• Shared family-style dining"]
Rooming["Rooming Houses & Private Rentals<br/>• Sleeping rooms only<br/>• Needed separate dining arrangements"]
end
Pop --> Dorms
Pop --> Greek
Pop --> Boarding
Pop --> Rooming
```
To illustrate where the remaining student population went, Young references a 1926 campus map showing residential blocks surrounding the campus densely packed with fraternity and sorority houses. While these Greek chapters provided intimate communal dining for groups averaging around 50 members, a 1914 article from *The Michigan Daily* estimated that Greek housing accommodated only around 1,500 students in total. The rest of the student population turned to local boarding houses scattered throughout Ann Arbor, such as the North State Street boarding house operated by Minnie Wallace in the early 20th century (preserved today as the purple-painted Minnie's Co-op). Yet boarding houses offered limited capacity. Turning to reports from *The Michigan Daily* in October 1914, Young underscores that as campus enrollments surged, the town faced an acute shortage of suitable accommodations, with residents and university observers growing increasingly anxious about the massive influx of roomers who had lodging but no integrated boarding facilities.
[11:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=705s) Boarding Houses, Food Insecurity, and the Bentley Library Scrapbooks
In the early 20th century, the surge in student enrollment placed severe logistical strain on Ann Arbor. Predictions noted that an extra 4,500 loaves of bread and 1,500 pounds of meat per day would be required just to feed the growing campus. Crucially, the majority of boarding and rooming houses did not provide meals for their residents. Unless a student had the rare fortune of living in a dormitory or gained admission into a fraternity or sorority, coming together to share regular, communal meals was not a built-in part of the Michigan experience. Instead, most students fended for themselves, scrounging for food across various local eateries while living scattered in private rooming houses.
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Student Meal Landscape vs Special Dining
accDescr: Flowchart contrasting everyday decentralized eating with intentional banquet gatherings.
subgraph Everyday["Everyday Student Reality"]
A["Rapid Student Growth<br/>+4,500 loaves bread, +1,500 lbs meat/day"] --> B["Rooming Houses<br/>(No meals provided)"]
B --> C["Scattered, Solitary Dining<br/>(Local cafes, no shared experience)"]
end
subgraph Intentional["Intentional Community Building"]
D["Campus Organizations<br/>(Fraternities, YWCA, League)"] --> E["Student Banquets"]
E --> F["Belonging, Rituals & Sumptuous Menus<br/>(Preserved in Scrapbooks)"]
end
```
This fractured everyday reality led to an appreciation of the student scrapbooks housed at the Bentley Historical Library. When tasked with designing a bicentennial course titled *Food at U of M*, the perspective of an archaeologist prompted an examination of the deep past: "Because I know that thinking about the past helps us think about where we are and where we're going in the future." That inquiry shifted focus toward special, intentional gatherings where students enjoyed elevated food, forging a sense of belonging otherwise absent from daily life.
- The Bentley Historical Library holds over 120 University of Michigan student scrapbooks.
- The earliest volumes date to 1870 (about 30 years after the university's founding), extending into the 1940s and a few into the 1950s.
- The decade between 1910 and 1920 forms a rich cluster, yielding at least 50 scrapbooks donated by alumni.
- Many volumes were commercial blank books featuring a block "M" on the cover, sold by Ann Arbor bookstores as Michigan keepsakes.
---
[15:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=901s) Banquet Programs as Artifacts of Campus Life
Delving into the scrapbooks quickly revealed an archival rabbit hole, requiring strict discipline to stay focused on collecting banquet programs for classroom research. Out of approximately 40 scrapbooks examined in detail, the vast majority contained preserved banquet programs. Just as modern students document and curate their lives through social media photos, turn-of-the-century students glued physical paper souvenirs into their scrapbooks to preserve their college memories.
The collections show notable variations in banquet attendance and retention:
- Some student scrapbooks contained only a single program, while others held as many as 14 distinct programs.
- Male students saved far more banquet programs than female students, largely because men belonged to a broader array of organizations that hosted these dinners.
- Host groups included social fraternities, professional fraternities (some with dedicated chapter houses, others non-housed), religious groups like the Young Baptist Guild, and broader campus societies such as the Women's League.
- Student banquets during this era were strictly gender-segregated: there were distinct men's banquets and women's banquets. Despite a small handful of co-ed clubs existing on campus, banquets were never co-ed events.
---
[17:46](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1066s) Scrapbook Examples: Karl Brandt and Gertrude Benson
Specific scrapbooks vividly illustrate how students memorialized their dining rituals. On one side is the scrapbook of Karl Brandt, an active diner who kept multiple banquet keepsakes pinned to single pages. His mementos reflect his involvement in Alpha Nu—an oratorical association dedicated to debate and speechmaking, which boasted 70 members in 1920 without maintaining a physical house, yet hosted banquets at least twice a year. Brandt also saved programs from Delta Theta Phi, a professional law fraternity that housed approximately 45 members in 1920.
```mermaid
flowchart LR
accTitle: Comparison of Student Scrapbooks
accDescr: Comparison of Karl Brandt's and Gertrude Benson's saved scrapbooks and activities.
subgraph Brandt["Karl Brandt (Men's Organizations)"]
KB1["Alpha Nu Oratory Association<br/>(Debate, 70 members, biannual banquets)"]
KB2["Delta Theta Phi<br/>(Law fraternity house, ~45 members)"]
end
subgraph Benson["Gertrude Benson (Women's Organizations)"]
GB1["YWCA Dinners<br/>(Attended as a freshman; most collected)"]
GB2["Michigan Women's Luncheon<br/>(Annual, League-sponsored)"]
GB3["Personal Diaries & Calendars<br/>(Marked Armistice Day, World War I)"]
end
```
On the other side is the meticulously maintained scrapbook of Gertrude Benson. In the front, Benson recorded the names of acquaintances she regularly visited, alongside calendars tracking historic milestones like Armistice Day ending World War I. Her pages feature programs adorned with flags from the annual Michigan Women's Luncheon, organized by the Women's League—the group whose collective efforts eventually funded the construction of the Michigan League building. Benson also preserved menus from the campus YWCA, which was remarkably active. Across all women's scrapbooks examined, YWCA banquet programs appear most frequently, followed closely by the Michigan League luncheons. Benson's records confirm a broader pattern: many students who preserved multiple banquet souvenirs attended their very first banquet as freshmen, establishing an early social anchor on campus.
---
[20:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1251s) Defining the Student Banquet
Viewed through an anthropological lens, student banquets possessed distinct cultural elements, even if they lacked the magical excess of a fictional feast:
- **A Defined Gathering:** While not as cinematic as "the Harry Potter banquets", they were intentional, large gatherings assembled for a dedicated purpose, such as fraternity or sorority initiations.
- **Structured Program of Events:** Unlike an informal holiday meal or Thanksgiving dinner, a banquet was structured around ceremonial rituals: toasts, formal speeches, and live performances.
- **Sumptuous Dining:** The meals featured food that students considered "sumptuous." When polled, modern first-year students defined sumptuous as "plentiful", but the term also implies luxury, expense, and polished, elevated visual presentation.
---
[23:05](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1385s) Stanley Lowe and the May 1919 Alpha Chi Sigma Banquet
An exemplary case study is found in the memorabilia of Stanley Lowe. His scrapbook preserves a program from an Alpha Chi Sigma fraternity banquet held in May 1919, just months after the conclusion of World War I as campus life returned to peacetime normalcy. Although Alpha Chi Sigma had roughly 53 members in 1920 and occupied a chapter house, this celebratory meal was held off-site at the Delta Cafe. The Delta Cafe was one of several prominent Ann Arbor dining establishments capable of accommodating large private assemblies in dedicated dining rooms.
The interior of Lowe's program exemplifies the standard format preserved across these collections: a formal printed list of attendees and a choreographed schedule of designated speakers and toasts.
[24:22](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1462s) A Chemistry Fraternity Banquet: Toasts, Mentorship, and Dow Chemical
Even on a banquet program that provides the bare minimum—listing just names without the elaborate toast titles or poetic quotations often printed beneath them—a great deal of social history comes into focus. At the head of the program sits the toastmaster, Dr. Edgar C. Britton, while the final speaker listed at the bottom is Professor Henry Kraemer. The two men listed between them were fraternity members, one from the local chapter and another representing a visiting chapter. While the exact headcount for the evening remains unrecorded, the room was packed with active fraternity brothers gathered to dine and listen to speeches.
Lisa Young admits that she loves "to snoop on the people who are in the banquet programs." Looking up Dr. Britton reveals that he had only recently completed his doctorate in chemistry at the University of Michigan. At the time of the dinner, he was serving as a postdoctoral fellow and university instructor, just on the cusp of departing Ann Arbor to launch a distinguished industrial career at Dow Chemical. Young laughs off a brief slip in her notes—"I think I said this was law. I think this is the chemistry one. I apologize. Too many Greek letters for me to keep them all straight"—before highlighting the presence of Professor Kraemer, who was serving as the Dean of the College of Pharmacy. Gathering dozens of young college men around a table where a rising postdoctoral researcher and a senior dean shared toasts and broke bread was a deliberate act of community building, immediately forging a powerful sense of academic and professional belonging.
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Fraternity Banquet Program Hierarchy
accDescr: Flowchart illustrating the leadership, speakers, and student attendees at the chemistry fraternity banquet.
subgraph Toastmakers ["Speakers & Leadership"]
TM["Toastmaster:<br/>Dr. Edgar C. Britton<br/><i>(Postdoc / Chemist heading to Dow)</i>"]
SP1["Chapter & Visiting Fraternity Members<br/><i>(Toasts & Fraternal Remarks)</i>"]
DEAN["Keynote / Concluding Speaker:<br/>Prof. Henry Kraemer<br/><i>(Dean of Pharmacy)</i>"]
end
TM --> SP1
SP1 --> DEAN
DEAN -.->|"Fosters professional belonging"| STU
```
[26:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1599s) The Classic Multi-Course Dinner and Mrs. Angell's Dining Standards
The evening's dinner followed a strict, formal multi-course structure typical of late-nineteenth and early-twentieth-century banquets. The meal opened with a hot soup, accompanied by a cold relish plate of crisp celery and radishes left directly on the table. The hearty entrée course featured broiled sirloin steak served with potatoes, early June peas, and hot rolls. Following the main entrée came the customary salad course: a refreshing fruit salad paired with "Saratoga chips," the thin, crispy precursor to modern potato chips. For dessert, the men were treated to strawberry shortcake à la mode, followed by hot coffee.
This meal structure closely mirrors the formal dining advice laid out by Sarah Caswell Angell (wife of former U-M President James B. Angell). In her introductory guidelines for the 1904 *Ann Arbor Cook Book*, Mrs. Angell codified what constituted a proper, respectable dinner: starting with soup and cold plates, moving to a meat entrée with potatoes, followed by a lighter salad course, a dessert, and ending invariably with coffee. She went so far as to recommend that coffee should ideally be taken away from the dining table, retiring instead to the sitting room so guests could rise and mingle. At fraternity banquets, that final course routinely took the form of "coffee and cigarettes," creating an intimate, lingering post-dinner atmosphere where young men sat together to smoke, reflect on the toasts, and deepen their personal connections.
[28:27](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1707s) Gendered Menus, Spring Produce, and "Early June Peas"
Across an examination of roughly thirty student banquet programs from this era—divided evenly between male and female organizations—clear cultural distinctions emerge. Most noticeably, beef appeared almost exclusively on men's menus. A thick, broiled sirloin was regarded as a quintessential masculine luxury, a heavy cut fit for a celebratory male banquet.
Beyond gendered tastes, the May date of the fraternity dinner reveals a deliberate celebration of spring seasonality:
- **Early June Peas:** At a time when Clarence Birdseye had not yet commercialized flash-freezing and domestic freezers did not exist, the ubiquitous winter staple was canned peas. Specifically marketing fresh "early June peas" in May highlighted premium seasonal produce over preserved pantry goods.
- **Strawberries:** Strawberry shortcake served in mid-to-late spring was a prized seasonal dessert. While late May was on the early edge for local Washtenaw County harvests, berries were either coaxed early or shipped north by rail from slightly warmer southern regions.
- **Radishes and Spring Relishes:** Crisp cold radishes and fresh celery offered a crisp contrast to heavy winter fare.
- **The Ann Arbor Farmers Market:** The market formally opened in May 1919, establishing a dedicated civic hub where local growers could supply town institutions with just-picked fruits and vegetables.
[30:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1839s) Washtenaw County's Food System: Census Data and Local Sourcing
Examining historical menus prompts a broader investigation into the local food web that supplied Ann Arbor's kitchens. Although the federal agricultural census scheduled for 1920 was somewhat disrupted as the USDA recouped from the logistics of World War I, the available five-year county census reports paint a vivid picture of a deeply agrarian Washtenaw County.
Around 1920, Washtenaw County was home to approximately 3,500 working farms, with an average size of around 100 acres. An astonishing 88 percent of the county's total land area was dedicated farmland. Of those 3,500 operations, 126 farms specifically grew strawberries, and more than 200 registered commercial production of fresh green vegetables. Most impressive of all, roughly 2,600 farms maintained active dairy herds. The rich cream for the banquet's ice cream and the fresh butter melted over the sirloin and potatoes were almost certainly harvested from pastures right outside town limits, underscoring how fortunate Ann Arbor diners were to enjoy an abundance of hyper-local agriculture.
| Washtenaw County Agricultural Metric (~1920 Census) | Documented Total |
|:--- |:--- |
| **Total Number of Working Farms** | ~3,500 farms |
| **Average Farm Size** | ~100 acres |
| **Proportion of County in Farmland** | 88% |
| **Farms Commercializing Strawberries** | 126 farms |
| **Farms Commercializing Fresh Green Vegetables** | 200+ farms |
| **Farms Operating Active Dairies** | ~2,600 farms |
[32:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1959s) The 25th Anniversary of the Women's League: 350 Women in Barbour Gymnasium
Turning from small fraternity gatherings to campus-wide assemblies, Young examines the Michigan Women's Luncheon of April 1915, held to mark the 25th anniversary of the Women's League. The League was established in 1890, exactly twenty years after Madelon Stockwell became the first woman admitted to the university in 1870. Recognizing that male students had established extensive fraternity houses and exclusive social clubs, collegiate women recognized they needed an organized body to advocate for themselves and build their own community. The Women's League led the charge to secure female dormitories, lobbied for the construction of Barbour Gymnasium so women had dedicated spaces for athletics and large banquets, and ultimately spearheaded the campaign to build the Michigan League building.
```mermaid
flowchart LR
accTitle: Growth of Women's Representation at U-M
accDescr: Timeline tracing the progression of women's integration at the University of Michigan from 1870 to the 1915 luncheon.
ADM -->|"20 years later"| WL
WL -->|"Campus advocacy"| BARB
BARB -->|"Venue for milestone"| LUNCH
```
While over 2,000 women were enrolled on campus by 1915, the luncheon program itself does not include an attendee register. Young turned to archival reporting in *The Michigan Daily*, which ran a detailed feature two days after the gathering. The paper reported that 350 women—comprising undergraduate students and returning alumnae—gathered inside Barbour Gymnasium. Sixteen expansive tables filled the floor alongside an elaborate central "birthday table," all festooned in decorative ribbons of pink and purple and loaded with Easter lilies. Outside of Saturday football games, the luncheon stood as one of the largest campus gatherings of the era and the single premier social event for Michigan women. Men were invited solely as guest speakers, including current university president Harry B. Hutchins and President Emeritus James B. Angell, who was beloved among alumnae for his decades of steadfast support for coeducation.
[35:55](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2155s) Catering Logistics, Macédoine Salad, and the Longone Culinary Archive
Feeding 350 seated guests in a gymnasium required astonishing catering precision. The 1915 luncheon menu demonstrates both elegance and culinary ambition:
- **Entrée:** Creamed chicken served alongside potato soufflé. Young pauses to marvel at the culinary mechanics required to turn out hot potato soufflé for 350 diners in a gymnasium: "Did they put them in the little individual cups or did they—how did they do that? The logistics are, I'm thinking about it a lot."
- **Accompaniments:** Hot rolls, sweet fruit jelly, and table plates of wafers and olives.
- **Salad:** A Macédoine salad, consisting of precisely, finely diced vegetables or fruits bound in dressing.
- **Dessert & Beverage:** Rich caramel ice cream, frosted cake, and hot coffee.
To uncover how these elaborate banquet recipes were sourced and scaled, Young made research trips to the Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive in the University of Michigan's Special Collections Library. Complementing that collection, she located an original copy of the 1904 *Ann Arbor Cook Book* (also available digitally through the Ann Arbor District Library), compiled by the ladies of a local church. These domestic community cookbooks provide a vital window into the exact culinary preparations, seasoning profiles, and serving rituals that sustained university life at the dawn of the twentieth century.
[37:23](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2243s) Making a Macédoine Salad and Everyday vs. Banquet Meals
Examining the period recipes reveals how much effort went into presentation, even for dishes made with humble ingredients. A recipe for a "Macédoine salad" calls for staple root vegetables like carrots and turnips to be washed, peeled, and diced before being dressed with either French dressing or mayonnaise. The defining characteristic of a classical Macédoine cut is that every piece of vegetable must be trimmed into a perfectly uniform, tiny square. The speaker shares an anecdote about attempting to recreate the recipe at home, only to surrender after ten minutes of meticulous knife work: "There's no way I'm cutting these things into perfectly cut squares. So we're having the salad, just my knife skills aren't that good." Despite the simple components, serving such a dish at a banquet signaled high culinary refinement and care through labor-intensive knife work.
```mermaid
flowchart LR
accTitle: Everyday Dinner vs Banquet Menu Comparison
accDescr: Flowchart comparing the components of a typical middle-class Sunday dinner to a U-M banquet meal.
subgraph Sunday["Mrs. Rorer's Sunday Dinner"]
S1["Soup & Roast Entrée"] --> S2["Single Dessert<br/>(Cake OR Ice Cream)"]
end
subgraph Banquet["U-M Student Banquet"]
B1["Multi-Course Dinner<br/>(Roast, Macédoine Salad)"] --> B2["Double Dessert Luxury<br/>(Cake AND Ice Cream)"]
end
```
Looking at these historical banquet menus as a whole raises an important question: while the meals were clearly elegant, they were not extravagantly out of reach. To determine how these special occasions actually differed from ordinary home dining of the era, the speaker turns to *Mrs. Rorer's Everyday Menu Book*, published in 1905. Sarah Tyson Rorer was essentially "the Martha Stewart of her time." A prominent culinary authority who founded the Philadelphia Cooking School and managed dining facilities at two World's Fairs, Rorer wrote for middle- and upper-middle-class East Coast households, providing aspiring homemakers with complete meal menus for every single day of the year.
---
[39:44](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2384s) Mrs. Rorer’s Menus and the Rarity of Cake and Ice Cream
Because the featured Women's League banquet took place in April, the speaker examined Mrs. Rorer’s recommended menus for that same month. A typical first Sunday in April called for the main "dinner" in the middle of the day, following church services. The meal began with a soup course, moved to an entrée of roast duck with stuffing and stewed turnips, followed by celery, canned peach ice cream, and sponge cake, concluding with a much lighter supper in the evening. Even though Rorer was a fierce advocate for fresh seasonal produce, April fell outside local fruit seasons, making canned peaches an acceptable substitute in her view.
Driven by an archaeologist's instinct to quantify patterns, the speaker ran digital searches across the entire 365-day text to track how often ice cream appeared:
- Ice cream was featured on only 20 Sundays across the entire year (fewer than half of all Sundays).
- It appeared on only eight weekdays, and one of those instances was explicitly to use up Sunday leftovers, reflecting Rorer's emphasis on household thrift.
- Most strikingly, having cake and ice cream *together* on the same menu occurred on only three Sundays in the entire book.
This contrast illuminates the true cultural meaning of the student banquets. The savory courses closely mirrored an upscale Sunday dinner at home with family, but the desserts elevated the event into a distinct luxury. Banquets did not force a choice between pastry and a frozen treat; they provided both. At the Women's League banquet, diners enjoyed caramel ice cream and cake, while the men's banquet served strawberry shortcake à la mode.
---
[42:14](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2534s) The Logistics of Ice Cream Before Modern Freezers
Serving ice cream to a crowded room in the early 20th century was an impressive logistical feat. Prior to 1920, mechanical refrigeration was in its infancy. While Ann Arbor ice cream parlors and university facilities may have possessed electric churning equipment, home freezers and commercial deep freezers did not exist. Making ice cream required wooden buckets packed with salt and ice around a central metal churn. Even with early electric motors assisting the churning, the resulting ice cream had a very short lifespan and began melting immediately.
Transporting and plating ice cream for an event like the Women's League banquet meant coordinating service for roughly 350 women packed into the gymnasium in April:
- The ice cream lacked modern chemical stabilizers, meaning servers had to rush it out to tables at top speed.
- It was often served in specialized nested bowls with ice packed into the outer dish to preserve its consistency.
- Archival issues of *The Michigan Daily* reveal a profusion of advertisements for local ice cream parlors, proving that walking out for ice cream was one of the premier social activities for students.
Because cold desserts were such a coveted treat, ending the banquets with cake and ice cream transformed a simple gathering into a celebratory ritual. It welcomed incoming freshmen into a shared university family by treating them to the ultimate comfort of a home-cooked Sunday dinner, elevated by a rare double dessert.
---
[44:31](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2671s) World War I Food Conservation and the "Farmettes"
This communal food culture extended far beyond celebration into civic duty, as shown in the scrapbook of student Gertrude Benson from 1917 and 1918. Pinned among Benson's college memories is a wartime food conservation pledge card carrying the solemn warning: "Disloyalty in little things gives aid to the enemy." The card outlines rigorous voluntary restrictions designed to free up supplies for American and Allied troops overseas:
- Observing "Meatless Mondays" and "Meatless Tuesdays."
- Eating one entirely meatless meal every day.
- Observing porkless Saturdays.
- Rationing sugar, noting that civilians ordinarily consumed twice the sugar necessary.
Rather than resisting federal conservation guidelines, University of Michigan students actively championed them. *The Michigan Daily* regularly ran front-page articles tracking fraternity houses, sororities, and women's dormitories as each organization formally signed onto the food conservation pledges. Furthermore, with college men enlisting and heading off to the battlefields in Europe, severe agricultural labor shortages hit Michigan's agricultural belt. Women on campus formed organized agricultural squads dubbed "farmettes," traveling out into local orchards to harvest cherries and apples to keep the regional food supply intact.
---
[48:05](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2885s) Modern Parallels: Composting, Local Food, and the Campus Farm
The federal conservation circulars distributed during the Great War mirror modern environmental and dietary initiatives with striking precision. Government flyers emphasized four key rules: avoid food waste, reduce meat consumption, and eat local produce. For an archaeologist looking at campus life across the centuries, the parallels over the last twenty years in Ann Arbor feel like direct déjà vu:
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Student-Driven Campus Food Initiatives
accDescr: Timeline tracing student-led food sustainability initiatives from the late 1990s through the Campus Farm.
A["Late 1990s: Student groups push dining halls to adopt composting"] --> B["Early 2000s: East Quad residents challenge chefs on wholesale food sourcing"]
B --> C["2012: U-M Campus Farm established ('Students growing food for students')"]
C --> D["Weekly Farm Stand: Thursdays 12–3 PM offering 30% student discounts"]
```
- In the late 1990s, a student environmental organization successfully pressured campus dining halls to institute comprehensive food waste composting, redirecting kitchen scraps into rich soil rather than landfills.
- In the early 2000s, student residents in East Quad began questioning dining hall chefs about where their produce came from. When chefs explained that supplies were ordered from industrial wholesale distributors like Sysco and Gordon Food Service, students pushed back, asking why a campus encircled by rich agricultural land was not sourcing food locally.
- Those student conversations laid the direct groundwork for the University of Michigan Campus Farm, which officially launched in 2012 with the guiding ethos of "students growing food for students."
- To guarantee direct student access to fresh produce, the initiative launched an on-campus farm stand operating every Thursday from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM, offering a 30% discount to all enrolled students.
[50:19](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3019s) A Century of Student Food Activism: From Wartime Duty to Sustainability
Tracing the lineage of campus eating practices reveals a continuous century of student-driven activism around food. Young points out that at East Quad, students similarly initiated conversations about eating sustainably, at one point adopting "Meatless Mondays." While many campus students initially avoided East Quad on those specific days, the experiment sparked crucial discussions about reducing the carbon footprint of student diets. Today, that legacy lives on in dining halls through dedicated "plant-forward" and sustainable meal days.
Young draws a direct parallel between modern environmental consciousness and the student sacrifices of World War I. While students during the First World War altered their diets out of patriotic duty to support the troops overseas, today's students are motivated by planetary sustainability and climate awareness. Both eras underscore how deeply student agency has influenced institutional food practices across a hundred-year span.
[51:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3101s) Acknowledgments and the Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive
Closing out the formal presentation, Young expresses deep gratitude for the rich archival collections at the University of Michigan that make this research possible. Over the past decade, she has collaborated closely with the archivists at the Bentley Historical Library, giving special thanks to Caitlin Moriarty and Sarah McCluskey for their warm guidance and classroom support. Young credits a transformative "Teaching with the Archives" faculty fellowship at the Bentley Library, where monthly cohort meetings helped reshape how she integrates archival materials into undergraduate coursework.
Young also highlights the Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive housed in the Hatcher Graduate Library, urging the audience to attend its upcoming events and exhibitions:
- **Upcoming 1920s Cooking Exhibit**: Exploring technological shifts in home cooking during the 1920s, hosted at the Hatcher Graduate Library (starting at 4:00 PM).
- **Historic Recipe Tasting**: An opportunity to sample the archival Wesleyan College fudge chocolate cake.
- **Student Collaborators**: Young credits her students, noting that their insightful questions and investigative energy continuously push her research into unexplored corners of the banquet scrapbooks.
[54:06](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3246s) Q&A: Uncovering the Kitchen Staff and Ella Hall's Recipe Book
Opening the floor, event host Andrew Rutledge exercises host privilege to ask who was actually behind the scenes preparing food for these large-scale gatherings—such as the Delta Cafe or private boarding house staffs. Young admits that kitchen labor remains one of the hardest nuts to crack because institutional records routinely omitted kitchen workers. However, a significant clue emerged when the university library published the 1930s–1940s recipe book of Ella Hall, a Black woman who owned several Ann Arbor boarding houses, including a surviving home near the Ann Arbor Farmers Market.
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Researching Forgotten Kitchen Labor
accDescr: Flow showing the trail of archival clues from Ella Hall's notebook to fraternity and sorority catering.
subgraph ArchivalClues["Archival Clues"]
A["Ella Hall's Recipe Notebook<br>(1930s-1940s)"] --> B["Clipped & Handwritten Recipes"]
B --> C["Devil's Food Cake Recipe<br>(Ann Arbor Cookbook, p. 313)"]
end
subgraph CateringConnections["Student Banquet Connections"]
C --> D["Marginalia: 'Kappa Gamma' / Sorority Notes"]
D --> E["Boarding House Cooks Hired<br>for Banquets & Daily Meals"]
end
```
Ella Hall's recipe notebook contains a combination of clippings, handwritten notes, and personal annotations. Most telling are marginal notes linking specific pastries to campus Greek life:
- Her Devil's Food cake recipe cites page 313 of the local *Ann Arbor Cookbook* (which contained only two devil's food recipes) alongside the handwritten notation "Kappa Gamma."
- Other pastry notations reference specific sororities, suggesting that student groups contracted boarding house operators to bake specialty desserts for banquets or daily meals.
- Because the university lacked a centralized dining and catering staff in the early 20th century, food preparation for hundreds of attendees was likely pieced together through local boarding houses and commercial town restaurants.
[57:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3435s) Food Waste, Leftovers, and Wartime Scrutiny
Rutledge inquires about the fate of banquet leftovers, especially given campus conservation pledges. While personal scrapbooks rarely document waste disposal, culinary guidebooks of the era—particularly those of domestic educator Mrs. Rorer—strictly mandated incorporating all leftover ingredients into subsequent meals. Young notes that wartime menus reflect distinct cutbacks; one World War I banquet menu notably omitted either cake or ice cream rather than serving both, demonstrating deliberate restraint.
Undergraduate researchers in Young's course discovered this cultural sensitivity reflected in local press coverage:
- A student archival search in *The Michigan Daily* uncovered an article publicly castigating a local Ann Arbor restaurant for offering an extravagant eight-course Thanksgiving dinner during wartime.
- Young emphasizes that wartime rationing on campus was rarely total deprivation; instead, students were asked to make modest adjustments, such as substituting beans for meat or observing one meatless meal per week while food remained otherwise plentiful.
[58:54](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3534s) Attendance, Social Class, and the Shadow of Michigamua
Rutledge raises the question of accessibility and class representation at the 25th anniversary Michigan League dinner, where 350 attendees were present out of roughly 2,000 enrolled women. Young explains that while documentation is scarce, events appear to have been broadly open to all women students, supported by annual dues of approximately $1. Announcements ran publicly in *The Michigan Daily*, and personal scrapbooks (such as Gertrude's) often preserved luncheon programs rather than formal paid tickets.
Asked what other archival discoveries caught her attention, Young reflects on the Michigan League's vital role in forging a community when women constituted less than 25% of the student body. Alongside benign artifacts like football and theater programs, scrapbooks also preserve darker campus rituals that Young deliberately sidesteps with introductory students due to their complexity:
- Photographic documentation of hazing rituals associated with the senior honor society Michigamua.
- Highly problematic banquet menus produced by Michigamua members who utilized an Ojibwe dictionary to playfully rewrite menu items, leaving a complex, troubling record of university history that demands careful contextualization.
[01:01:59](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3719s) Linguistic Wordplay on Student Menus and Historic Cakes
Lisa Young reflects on the fascinating textual details found inside the student banquet programs, noting how student organizations played with language. One program from an Indigenous or related organization features course items translated into Ojibwe using period dictionaries. Another program, produced by a musical society, engages in humorous wordplay by renaming courses and dishes after musical instruments and musical movements. A law organization's menu performs similar puns with legal terminology. Young expresses her fascination with how students manipulated food vocabulary, admitting that she really needs the help of a linguist to fully decode these menus. She remarks on how poignant it is to physically touch these banquet programs and realize they are physical memories preserved by students more than a century ago.
Young also recounts her past collaborations with University of Michigan Dining Services before the COVID-19 pandemic. She used to provide chefs with historical banquet recipes, which they prepared for the class. However, because the students never managed to eat very much of the food, Young felt uneasy about the food waste—even though in some years they opened up the leftovers to general diners in the dining halls. The project shifted direction when COVID-19 hit and dining services became severely short-staffed. Nevertheless, Young continues the tradition of baking a historic dessert herself to celebrate the students' final presentations, noting, "It's desserts that we need to celebrate." Her go-to bake is the Lazy Daisy cake, an old-fashioned favorite. At this point, host Andrew Rutledge officially opens the floor to the audience for questions, asking attendees in the room to wait for a docent with a microphone so that the virtual audience can hear.
- Programs used puns tailored to specific student societies: legal terms for law fraternities, musical instruments and tempos for music societies, and Ojibwe terms based on period dictionaries.
- Before COVID-19, dining chefs prepared historic banquet dishes for the seminar, but food waste led to a pivot.
- Young routinely bakes a historic "Lazy Daisy cake" for her students after their term presentations.
---
[01:04:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3848s) Ice, Ice Cream, and the Evolution of Food Technology
An audience member asks about Mrs. Rorer's everyday menu suggestions, recalling Young's earlier point that ice cream was occasionally served on a Monday or Tuesday using leftovers from Sunday dinner. The questioner asks whether Mrs. Rorer must have had a freezer in Philadelphia. Young clarifies that Mrs. Rorer did not have a mechanical freezer. Instead, late-nineteenth and early-twentieth-century households and confectioneries preserved ice cream by packing containers directly into tubs of crushed ice mixed with coarse salt, a technique that maintained freezing temperatures. Young explains that guidance from the era explicitly advised confection shops that they could make ice cream a day ahead, provided it remained packed in salted ice.
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Ice Cream Preservation in the 1910s
accDescr: Diagram illustrating how ice cream was produced, chilled with salt and ice, and kept cold without mechanical refrigeration.
subgraph Preparation["Confectionery Preparation"]
A["Ice Cream Churned / Prepared"]
end
subgraph Cooling["Pre-Mechanical Cooling Method"]
B["Packed in Ice and Salt"]
C["Maintains Sub-Freezing Temperature"]
A --> B
B --> C
end
subgraph Limitations["Storage & Distribution"]
D["Preserved for 1 to 2 Days"]
E["Local Sourcing Required (No Long Cold Chains)"]
C --> D
C --> E
end
```
Young notes that similar ice-storage methods were employed in Ann Arbor, supported by local ice houses and early artificial ice plants. Although she could not confirm whether local newspaper advertisements in the *Michigan Daily* for manufactured ice originated in the 1910s or the 1920s, she highlights how the 1910s sat on the cusp of immense systemic shifts:
- **Historical Parallels:** The class was taught immediately after COVID-19, allowing students to draw poignant comparisons between their own lives and students experiencing the 1918 influenza pandemic—including archival scrapbooks preserving newspaper instructions on how to wear masks.
- **Kitchen Technology:** Electricity and gas were emerging, alongside train-imported goods, but modern electrical appliances were rare. Students uncovered *Michigan Daily* advertisements for novelty electric warming plates.
- **Local Food Networks:** Because electrical mechanical refrigerators were not yet adopted (becoming available but extraordinarily expensive in the 1920s), banquet food still had to be sourced locally rather than shipped along extensive refrigerated cold chains.
- Ice cream in that era remained a perishable treat that lasted only a day or two rather than sitting in a home freezer indefinitely.
---
[01:07:39](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4059s) Prohibition, Campus Rules, and Division Street
An audience member inquires whether menus reflected the advent of Prohibition, asking whether banquet bills of fare shifted from serving alcohol to going dry, or whether drinking had always been frowned upon for students. Young clarifies that alcohol never appears on the official student organization menus in the scrapbooks; menus only list after-dinner cigars and cigarettes. She defers to Andrew Rutledge and a previous lecture by James Tobin, explaining that the university had strictly barred alcohol on campus.
Young elaborates on campus and town geography:
- Official student banquet events were not permitted to serve alcohol.
- Discussions surrounding the construction of the Michigan Union explicitly decreed that the building would not serve alcohol.
- Students seeking a drink had to venture toward downtown Ann Arbor and Main Street.
- Audience members and Young discuss Ann Arbor's historic alcohol boundary along Division Street: alcohol was permitted west of Division Street, but prohibited east of Division toward campus.
- An audience member notes that the local VFW post on South Division did serve alcohol, though Young and the questioner clarify that major social shifts around campus drinking accelerated primarily after World War II.
---
[01:09:36](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4176s) Women's Spaces: Barber Gymnasium and the Michigan League
Another audience member asks about the women's gymnasium with a "B" initial mentioned earlier in the talk, prompting Young to identify it as Barbour Gymnasium. Located adjacent to the men's Waterman Gymnasium—where the Chemistry Building stands today, near the intersection of North University and Church Street, across from the Ruthven Building—Barbour Gym served as a crucial women's center. The audience member recounts local lore about the extreme marginalization of female students in the university's early coeducational decades, when professors reportedly ignored women in class, women were forbidden from entering the Michigan Union without a male escort, and gym hours conflicted with key courses. According to this narrative, women rallied around Barbour Gym, founded the Women's League, and raised funds by baking and hand-hemming handkerchiefs to eventually construct the Michigan League, which opened in 1929 just as the Great Depression struck, forcing them to deed the facility to the university.
Young addresses these accounts, contextualizing women's status by decade:
- While overt discrimination and silencing certainly characterized the initial decades after women were admitted in 1870, by the 1910s women had established a formidable presence and a strong voice across campus.
- This era was marked by intense suffrage activism; Michigan passed state women's suffrage before the Nineteenth Amendment was ratified nationally in 1920.
- Prominent female leaders spearheaded campus organizing, including Dr. Eliza Mosher, the university's first Dean of Women, after whom the Mosher-Jordan dormitory was later named.
- The Women's League was formed in 1890, successfully lobbying to build Barbour Gymnasium so female students had an athletic and meeting space of their own.
- When the League began fundraising to build the Michigan League building, students came up with ingenious fundraisers; the illustrated campus map showing fraternities and sororities featured in Young's lecture was created and sold specifically to finance the League's construction.
Rutledge then steps in to transition the Q&A to questions submitted by the virtual audience.
[01:13:28](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4408s) Scrapbooks, Social Networking, and Student Culture
Responding to a question from the online audience about what observations in the historical materials most impress or surprise her students, Lisa Young points to the commercial photographs of campus buildings frequently pasted into scrapbooks. While modern undergraduates assume students simply bought postcards and prints to remember what the university looked like, Young asks them to look deeper into who those students were. Nearly all the scrapbooks examined belonged to in-state Michigan students, many arriving from small, rural towns such as Ludington or Tecumseh. For someone coming from those communities, the university structures were quite literally the largest buildings they had ever encountered in their lives; pasting them into an album was a declaration of presence: "here I am on this campus."
Young highlights how scrapbooks also reveal early mechanisms of interpersonal networking before modern telecommunications. Artifacts like dance cards and calling cards offer a vivid look at how young people negotiated their social lives when they had no smartphones and residential telephones were nonexistent. Other campus traditions bridged the past and present: even though Michigan Stadium (the "Big House") had not yet been built, football fever was already in full swing. Walking past landmarks like the President's House, erected in the 1840s, helps contemporary students realize the physical continuity of the grounds and appreciate how diligently the University of Michigan has preserved its own institutional memory. Young also notes her own surprise regarding historical student activism around food, tracing a through-line from food-related mobilization during World War I to modern student-led sustainability campaigns, demonstrating that students have consistently provided the necessary nudge pushing the university to be its better self.
- Scrapbooks analyzed often belonged to rural Michigan natives (e.g., from Ludington and Tecumseh) for whom campus architecture was unprecedented in scale.
- Dance cards and calling cards illustrated networking without phones or modern communication devices.
- Football culture was already thriving prior to the construction of Michigan Stadium.
- Student food initiatives show continuity from World War I-era domestic thrift to modern environmental and sustainability activism.
[01:16:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4590s) Baking Technologies: Coal, Gas, and Domestic Efficiency
An audience member asks an "off the wall" question about when early boarding houses switched from coal-fired baking to alternative fuels. Young explains that in urban centers like Ann Arbor, gas rapidly supplanted coal during this era, though iceboxes remained the norm for cooling, and old photographs of State Street show infrastructure such as overhead trolley wires rather than fully modern electrification. The questioner humorously reveals his personal connection to the subject: he is Young's husband, and he recalls growing up in Pennsylvania during the early 1950s where his mother ran a summer hotel with an entirely coal-fired oven, making baking an intensely demanding, volatile chore.
```mermaid
flowchart TD
accTitle: Domestic Fuel Transition
accDescr: Flowchart illustrating the evolution of household and commercial kitchen energy sources from coal to gas.
A["Coal-Fired Ovens<br>(Uneven heat, labor-intensive)"] --> B["Gas Ranges<br>(Advocated by Sarah Tyson Rorer, 1905)"]
B --> C["Predictable Temperature & Efficiency<br>(Early adoption in urban centers like Ann Arbor)"]
B --> D["Delayed Rural Adoption<br>(Electrification reaching Dexter only in 1920s-1930s)"]
```
Young notes that baking with coal required managing unstable, fluctuating heat. Culinary authority Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer actively urged homemakers in her 1905 writings (and earlier works) to abandon coal in favor of gas stoves. Rorer argued that gas saved labor, delivered consistent results, and allowed women to execute complex, ambitious menus efficiently through proper planning. While cities like Philadelphia and Ann Arbor embraced gas early, surrounding rural areas lagged behind; Young notes that reliable electrical grids did not reach nearby towns like Dexter until the 1920s and 1930s.
- Sarah Tyson Rorer campaigned for gas ranges as essential tools for domestic efficiency and temperature control.
- Coal baking required constant vigilance due to lack of steady heat regulation.
- Outlying communities such as Dexter did not see reliable electrification until the 1920s and 1930s.
[01:19:13](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4753s) Ann Arbor's First Indoor Plumbing and Closing Remarks
Young tests the audience with a piece of local trivia: where was the first indoor plumbing installed in Ann Arbor? The answer is the President's House in 1871. Sarah Caswell Angell, wife of incoming University President James Burrill Angell, refused to relocate from Vermont to Michigan unless the home was fitted with modern indoor plumbing, establishing an early standard for campus domestic comfort.
Following the trivia, host Andrew Rutledge formally closes the lecture. He thanks Observatory Director Greg Parker for handling the livestream, the Michigan Media visuals team for filming, and announces that the recording will be emailed to registered attendees and permanently archived within a week. Rutledge invites guests to attend the next Making Michigan event on October 15th, featuring historian Jack Dempsey discussing Michigan's pivotal role in the Civil War. That lecture coincides with the opening of a new Detroit Observatory exhibition, *"Fill the ranks: The Civil War and the University of Michigan"*, examining how campus and local communities debated secession, the service of students and alumni, and Michigan's post-war rise as the nation's largest university. Rutledge concludes by welcoming in-person attendees to eat cake outside—joking that, modern conveniences notwithstanding, they have no ice cream—and inviting them to tour the historic upstairs telescopes with the observatory docents.
- **1871 Plumbing Milestone:** The President's House received Ann Arbor's first indoor plumbing after Sarah Caswell Angell made it a condition of moving from Vermont.
- **Next Event:** October 15th talk with historian Jack Dempsey on Michigan in the Civil War.
- **Upcoming Exhibition:** *"Fill the ranks: The Civil War and the University of Michigan"*, covering the 1850s–1860s debates, student enlistment, and the university's post-war expansion.
- **Observatory Public Hours:** Open Thursday afternoons, Friday afternoons, and select Saturdays.
## Notable quotes
> [03:17](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=197s) I sit at a table with new people, so I can get to meet them. — Lisa C. Young
> [03:17](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=197s) you belong here. — Lisa C. Young
> [11:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=705s) Because I know that thinking about the past helps us think about where we are and where we're going in the future. — Lisa C. Young
> [24:22](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1462s) to snoop on the people who are in the banquet programs. — Lisa C. Young
> [24:22](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=1462s) I think I said this was law. I think this is the chemistry one. I apologize. Too many Greek letters for me to keep them all straight — Lisa C. Young
> [35:55](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2155s) Did they put them in the little individual cups or did they—how did they do that? The logistics are, I'm thinking about it a lot. — Lisa C. Young
> [37:23](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2243s) There's no way I'm cutting these things into perfectly cut squares. So we're having the salad, just my knife skills aren't that good. — Lisa C. Young
> [37:23](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2243s) the Martha Stewart of her time. — Lisa C. Young
> [44:31](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2671s) Disloyalty in little things gives aid to the enemy.
> [48:05](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=2885s) students growing food for students
> [01:01:59](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=3719s) It's desserts that we need to celebrate. — Lisa C. Young
> [01:13:28](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4408s) here I am on this campus — Lisa C. Young
> [01:19:13](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd4lcJ9OjHo&t=4753s) Fill the ranks: The Civil War and the University of Michigan — Andrew Rutledge
## Mentioned
Andrew Rutledge, Bentley Historical Library, Judy & Stanley Frankel Detroit Observatory, University of Michigan, Lisa C. Young, Helen Newberry Hall, Martha Cook Building, The Michigan Daily, Minnie Wallace, Minnie's Co-op, Women's League, Karl Brandt, Alpha Nu, Delta Theta Phi, Gertrude Benson, YWCA, Stanley Lowe, Alpha Chi Sigma, Delta Cafe, Dr. Edgar C. Britton, Dow Chemical, Professor Henry Kraemer, Sarah Caswell Angell, Ann Arbor Cook Book, Ann Arbor Farmers Market, Madelon Stockwell, Barbour Gymnasium, Harry B. Hutchins, James B. Angell, Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive, Sarah Tyson Rorer, Mrs. Rorer's Everyday Menu Book, East Quad, Sysco, Gordon Food Service, University of Michigan Campus Farm, Caitlin Moriarty, Sarah McCluskey, Hatcher Graduate Library, Ella Hall, Michigamua, Michigan Union, Dr. Eliza Mosher, Michigan League, Waterman Gymnasium, Jack Dempsey
## Video description
Making Michigan lecture series
"Cake and Ice Cream: Creating a Sense of Belonging at U-M Student Banquets in the Early 20th Century"
Lisa C. Young
September 17, 2026
Judy & Stanley Frankel Detroit Observatory
A version of this video with audio descriptions is available here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6s40uzTNEU
密歇根大学历史菜单揭示:宴会曾在餐饮短缺时期凝聚学生纽带
在大学修建宿舍之前,面对严重的食物匮乏,学生组织依靠供应蛋糕与冰淇淋这一罕见搭配的多道菜宴会,来建立对学校的归属感和专业人脉网络。
借助Bentley Historical Library馆藏的学生剪贴簿、菜单及历史食谱档案,Lisa C. Young探讨了在宿舍尚未提供集体餐饮之前,密歇根大学(University of Michigan)的校园饮食文化。面对当地寄宿公寓餐饮极度匮乏且单调应付的现状,学生组织举办了多道菜的正规宴会,提供牛排、奶油禽肉以及被视作珍贵奢侈品的“蛋糕配冰淇淋”等丰盛菜肴。Young分析了这些具有严格性别隔离特征的聚会如何提供专业指导、社交认同与仪式性的社群构建,同时探讨了20世纪初餐饮服务背后的劳动力、季节性农业以及机械冷藏普及前的挑战。讲座还将一战时期的校园节粮倡议与当代由学生主导的可持续发展及餐饮行动联系起来。
对20世纪初密歇根大学学生剪贴簿的档案分析表明,在校园宿舍稀缺且日常餐饮分散在私人寄宿公寓的时期,多道菜宴会成为了至关重要的社群构建仪式。 (7:20)
蛋糕与冰淇淋的搭配构成了“奢华”宴会的决定性标志;在家庭机械冷藏技术普及前,家用冰淇淋制作极度罕见且难度极大,因而更显珍贵。 (38:17)
印制菜单展现了学生生活中严格的性别划分:牛肉几乎只出现在男学生联谊会的菜单上,而女学生组织则偏爱奶油禽肉菜肴和耗费人力的蔬菜沙拉。 (28:27)
一个多世纪以来,校园饮食文化经历了一轮又一轮有组织的节约与倡导活动,从一战时期的自愿无肉和无糖誓约,转变为21世纪的本地食材采购以及由学生运营的U-M Campus Farm。 (50:19)
Reading summary
Before dormitory dining halls became standard at the University of Michigan, student organizations relied on formal, multi-course banquets to foster community and belonging, according to research by anthropological archaeologist Lisa C. Young. Drawing on archival scrapbooks and period menus from the 1910s, Young demonstrates how shared meals compensated for an otherwise fragmented housing and food landscape.
Housing Shortages and Fractured Student Dining (7:07)
In the early twentieth century, Michigan lacked centralized student dining infrastructure. When the university opened its first residence halls in 1915—Helen Newberry Hall and Martha Cook Building—they accommodated only roughly 200 women, representing about 20% of the female student body. Fraternities and sororities housed another estimated 1,500 students in 1914, while the majority of the student body lived scattered across private boarding and rooming houses throughout Ann Arbor. Because many rooming houses provided lodging without meals, rapidly surging enrollments strained local food supplies, requiring an estimated additional 4,500 loaves of bread and 1,500 pounds of meat per day. With daily dining largely uncoordinated, students often ate in isolation or rotated among commercial eateries.
Banquet Programs as Artifacts of Belonging (15:01)
To build social cohesion, campus societies organized elaborate, gender-segregated banquets preserved in over 120 student scrapbooks at the Bentley Historical Library, clustered heavily between 1910 and 1920. Scrapbooks from students like Karl Brandt and Gertrude Benson show that freshmen frequently attended banquets early in their first year to anchor their campus networks. Programs featured structured ceremonial toasts, speeches, and multi-course meals adhering to formal dining standards popularized by figures like Sarah Caswell Angell.
These events also bridged generational and academic divides. At an off-campus 1919 Alpha Chi Sigma chemistry fraternity banquet at the Delta Cafe, the speaking roster seated rising postdoctoral researcher Edgar C. Britton alongside the Dean of the College of Pharmacy, Professor Henry Kraemer. Young notes that breaking bread across academic ranks turned these dinners into deliberate exercises in professional mentorship and institutional inclusion.
The Logistical Luxury of Double Desserts (39:44)
Banquet bills of fare highlighted regional agricultural abundance and upscale indulgence. Around 1920, 88% of Washtenaw County was active farmland across 3,500 operations, supporting roughly 2,600 dairies and widespread strawberry and vegetable production. While men's events favored heavy cuts like broiled sirloin, women's gatherings—such as the 1915 Michigan Women's Luncheon serving 350 guests in Barbour Gymnasium—featured creamed chicken, potato soufflé, and meticulously diced Macédoine salads.
The defining mark of banquet luxury lay in the dessert course. In Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer’s benchmark 1905 household menu book, ice cream appeared on only 20 Sundays and cake and ice cream were paired together on just three Sundays all year. Student banquets routinely bypassed this either-or restriction by offering both. Because mechanical refrigeration was not yet established, churning and serving ice cream to hundreds of seated diners required tubs of salted ice and rapid table delivery, transforming items like strawberry shortcake à la mode or caramel ice cream with frosted cake into rare domestic luxuries.
A Century of Student Food Activism (44:31)
Student dining habits also served as an avenue for civic responsibility. During World War I, collegiate organizations signed voluntary food conservation pledges for Meatless Tuesdays and sugar reductions, and female students organized as "farmettes" to harvest regional fruit orchards facing wartime labor shortages. Local student newspapers actively scrutinized wasteful dining, even criticizing an Ann Arbor restaurant for offering an extravagant eight-course Thanksgiving meal during wartime.
Young connects these historical mobilizations directly to modern campus initiatives. Student campaigns pushing for dining hall composting in the late 1990s, alongside protests over industrial wholesale sourcing in East Quad during the early 2000s, culminated in the student-led launch of the University of Michigan Campus Farm in 2012. Both eras demonstrate how collective student choices around food have pushed the institution toward broader civic and environmental commitments.
Young emphasizes that archival records present significant research gaps, particularly regarding the uncredited labor of kitchen workers who prepared these multi-course feasts. Marginal notes in period artifacts—such as a recipe book kept by local Black boarding house owner Ella Hall—suggest student groups frequently contracted outside cooks and town bakeries. In addition, student scrapbooks preserve troubling campus rituals alongside celebrations, including derogatory linguistic parodies produced by groups like Michigamua, highlighting the layered social complexities documented in campus culinary history.
Source quotes
[3:17] Lisa C. Young: I sit at a table with new people, so I can get to meet them.
[3:17] Lisa C. Young: you belong here.
[11:45] Lisa C. Young: Because I know that thinking about the past helps us think about where we are and where we're going in the future.
[24:22] Lisa C. Young: to snoop on the people who are in the banquet programs.
[24:22] Lisa C. Young: I think I said this was law. I think this is the chemistry one. I apologize. Too many Greek letters for me to keep them all straight
[35:55] Lisa C. Young: Did they put them in the little individual cups or did they—how did they do that? The logistics are, I'm thinking about it a lot.
[37:23] Lisa C. Young: There's no way I'm cutting these things into perfectly cut squares. So we're having the salad, just my knife skills aren't that good.
[37:23] Lisa C. Young: the Martha Stewart of her time.
[44:31] Disloyalty in little things gives aid to the enemy.
[48:05] students growing food for students
[61:59] Lisa C. Young: It's desserts that we need to celebrate.
[73:28] Lisa C. Young: here I am on this campus
[79:13] Andrew Rutledge: Fill the ranks: The Civil War and the University of Michigan
Original transcript
[0:00] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: Welcome to
Making Michigan, the Bentley
[0:03] Historical Library's
series on the history
[0:05] of the University of Michigan.
[0:07] I'm Andrew Rutledge, the
Bentley's in-house historian,
[0:10] and I'm very pleased to
welcome you all tonight,
[0:12] either in person or virtually,
to the historic Judy and Stanley
[0:15] Frankel Detroit Observatory,
a division of the Bentley.
[0:19] I'd also like to extend
a special welcome to all
[0:22] of the U of M alumni
who have joined us
[0:24] and want to thank the Alumni
Association of the University
[0:27] of Michigan's Lifelong
Learning Program
[0:29] for co-sponsoring
tonight's program.
[0:31] Welcome.
[0:33] This evening,
despite the weather,
[0:35] I think we have a really
exciting and really timely talk.
[0:39] For the fall semester started
here at the University
[0:41] of Michigan just
over three weeks ago,
[0:44] and students have been
settling into classes,
[0:46] learning how to navigate
a campus that's just full
[0:48] of construction, and
perhaps most importantly,
[0:51] starting to build friendships
and communities among the more
[0:54] than 50,000 fellow
students here in Ann Arbor.
[0:58] And doing all this, they
are walking the footsteps
[1:01] of hundreds of thousands
of fellow Wolverines
[1:04] who have come to this town
since the university first
[1:06] opened its doors here in 1841.
[1:10] But across the years,
one of the few constants
[1:13] is the striking
central role that food
[1:16] has played in this
community here in Ann Arbor.
[1:19] For many conversations
over dinners in dorm
[1:22] cafeterias and late night snacks
with friends and roommates
[1:26] as they talk about
classes or just life
[1:27] in general, among the most
treasured of college memories.
[1:31] And that's true regardless
of where you went to school.
[1:34] Here, Michigan State, Western,
anywhere in the country
[1:40] or really in the world.
[1:41] And that near universal
importance of food and fostering
[1:45] relationships, both on campus
and across societies more
[1:48] generally, is a really
well-known phenomenon.
[1:52] But the nature of those meals
has changed dramatically
[1:54] over time.
[1:56] At Michigan, in the late 19th
and early 20th centuries,
[2:00] long before the first
dormitories were built,
[2:02] the most memorable meals of
the academic year were formal
[2:05] banquets hosted by
student organizations.
[2:08] These carefully
choreographed evenings
[2:10] brought students together
over multiple courses
[2:12] in elaborate outfits,
and not only did
[2:15] they help create a
sense of belonging
[2:17] for Michigan students that
lasted long after graduation,
[2:21] they also left a rich
archival legacy that
[2:23] lets us learn about them today.
[2:26] And there is no
one better suited
[2:27] to tell the story of these
banquets than Professor Lisa
[2:30] Young, the Volney H.
Jones collegiate lecturer
[2:33] in the Department
of Anthropology
[2:35] here at U of M. Long interested
in the history of food
[2:40] systems and human cultures, she
has worked on archeological digs
[2:43] in the Southwest,
exploring the subject there
[2:45] before becoming interested
in the history of food
[2:48] here at U of M as part
of the university's
[2:50] bicentennial celebrations.
[2:52] Since then, she has researched
evermore at the Bentley
[2:55] and across campus, and has
taught a number of classes
[2:58] on the subject.
[3:00] She attended the
University of Michigan,
[3:02] first as an undergraduate,
experiencing
[3:03] many of these phenomena herself
and then received her PhD
[3:07] at the University of Arizona.
[3:09] Please join me in
welcoming Professor Young.
[3:11] [APPLAUSE]
[3:17] LISA YOUNG: Thank
you, everybody,
[3:18] for coming out tonight.
[3:20] I'm excited to
share some of what
[3:23] I've learned about
food at U of M,
[3:26] and it's actually
through a class
[3:28] that I teach, in
particular, a first year
[3:31] seminar that I've been teaching
over the last several years.
[3:34] So I want to warn you
about this because it's
[3:36] very much a work in progress.
[3:39] And in fact, my students
were at the Bentley library
[3:41] today looking at some
of the banquet menus.
[3:44] So I'm going to show you one of
them that they're researching.
[3:47] So if you have
any questions, I'm
[3:49] going to tell you to contact
them in a couple of weeks.
[3:53] As Andrew mentioned,
my background
[3:54] is actually in archeology,
not in history.
[3:57] And to study food
as an archeologist,
[4:00] we have to put together so many
bits and pieces of information.
[4:06] And I realized, when I started
looking at the historic record
[4:09] and thinking about food, I
was doing the same thing.
[4:14] So one of the
things I'd like you
[4:16] to watch for as
I'm talking tonight
[4:18] is just all the different
sources of information
[4:22] that I'm using.
[4:23] Don't worry.
[4:23] I won't quiz you at
the end, but I want
[4:26] you to just be aware of that.
[4:28] I do my archeology within the
Department of Anthropology.
[4:32] And in anthropology,
we've realized
[4:35] for a long time how important
and how essential shared meals
[4:40] are to what makes us human.
[4:42] That's what we study
as anthropologists.
[4:45] And so in this class,
we are thinking
[4:49] about how food at
U of M has changed
[4:52] because we want to think
about the food system
[4:54] and sustainability
on campus today.
[4:57] But I also am always
encouraging students
[5:00] to think about
their shared meals.
[5:03] And these last few weeks
with the first year students
[5:06] have been really exciting
because their lives
[5:09] are changing so much in
terms of their meals.
[5:11] And it's been fun
to get them to think
[5:14] about the transition from
their homes to the dorm
[5:19] and what that meant in terms
of when they were eating,
[5:22] who they were eating with,
all the choices that they had
[5:25] in the dorms, and it
wasn't their family
[5:28] fixing their food
for them anymore.
[5:30] It was somebody behind the
scenes that was doing that.
[5:36] And I really was struck
by the students talking
[5:40] about how one of the
students even said to me,
[5:43] every time I go
into the cafeteria,
[5:44] the tables are often full.
[5:46] So I sit at a table
with new people,
[5:48] so I can get to meet them.
[5:50] And it made me think
about how the dorms create
[5:54] that community when you
first come to Michigan
[5:58] and how it's in the dining Hall
that you get to meet people.
[6:02] And in fact, a few
weeks ago, I was
[6:04] having a Zoom meeting
with some of my friends
[6:07] who are U of M alumni.
[6:08] And I was like, what do you
remember about food at U of M
[6:11] when we first started?
[6:12] And of course, there was a lot
of complaining about the dorm
[6:16] food and mystery meat.
[6:18] And why did we have
hamburger, so many meals,
[6:21] and all those different forms?
[6:23] But there was also a recognition
that even though several of us
[6:28] were in Couzens Dorm
right out there,
[6:30] that that's the space
where we hung out together,
[6:33] at least until we explored
other places on campus.
[6:38] So that really made
me think about,
[6:39] as I walked on campus
during move-in week,
[6:42] and everybody was
wearing these t-shirts
[6:45] that say you belong here.
[6:47] And so there was the
dorms in that food,
[6:51] creating that sense
of belonging here
[6:53] at Michigan during
those first few weeks
[6:55] before people found their
footing and their smaller groups
[6:59] and things like that.
[7:01] So as we begin, I'd
like you to just think
[7:03] about that sense of belonging
and what happens now.
[7:07] Because one of the
things that's so
[7:09] interesting about the
University of Michigan,
[7:12] a little over 100 years ago,
is that that experience was not
[7:17] common at all.
[7:20] So here's a picture of one
of the first dorms on campus.
[7:24] This is Helen Newberry
dorm, and this is actually
[7:27] from one of the scrapbooks
the students have researched.
[7:31] And this really got me thinking
about what types of shared meals
[7:36] helped create that sense of
community and sense of belonging
[7:41] for U of M students in
the early 20th century.
[7:48] So as many of you might
know that in 1915,
[7:51] the university decided to open
Helen Newberry Hall and then
[7:55] Martha Cook.
[7:56] And between those
two together, it
[7:59] housed about 200 women
students on campus.
[8:04] These were only for women.
[8:06] And that was, by my
calculation, only about 20%
[8:11] of the women that
were on this campus
[8:14] at that time, plus or minus.
[8:18] So then the question is where
did the other several thousand
[8:23] University of Michigan students
live, and more importantly,
[8:27] where did they eat?
[8:30] So some of you may have
seen this map coming up
[8:33] in advertising this week,
because there's a presentation
[8:36] on it on September 24th about
the history of this map,
[8:41] which I just learned about.
[8:43] It's from 1926, so it's a little
bit later than the time period
[8:48] that I'm going to
be talking about.
[8:50] But can you see the cursor
on here a little bit?
[8:53] So if you look very
carefully at this map,
[8:55] and I know you can't
see it in detail,
[8:57] all these houses have
Greek letters on them.
[9:01] So the university was
surrounded by blocks
[9:05] of particularly fraternities
but also sororities.
[9:10] And so this was one
of the other places
[9:13] that people got together
and shared meals.
[9:16] Often, some of the
fraternities are fairly small.
[9:20] I'd say average size is
maybe around 50 sororities
[9:24] plus or minus and that amount.
[9:28] And so those created places
for that small community.
[9:32] And many students were actually
rushing in their first semester
[9:36] or their second semester
at University of Michigan
[9:40] in the early 20th century.
[9:42] But recently, my students
actually in my class,
[9:46] helped me find an article from
1914 in the Michigan Daily that
[9:49] was only again estimating that
that was 1,500 students that
[9:54] were living in there.
[9:55] So again, that means
of the students
[10:03] from University of
Michigan were living
[10:05] in fraternities and sororities.
[10:07] Where else were they living?
[10:09] Well, Ann Arbor was full of
boarding houses at this time.
[10:14] This one was run by a
woman named Minnie Wallace
[10:21] in the early 20th century.
[10:24] And if anybody's driven
on North State Street,
[10:26] you can still see it today,
but it's painted purple.
[10:31] It's Minnie's Co-op.
[10:33] And they kept the
name in honor of her.
[10:36] But she was running it as a
boarding house, providing meals
[10:40] in this space for University
of Michigan students.
[10:45] And boarding houses
were of various sizes,
[10:48] but they don't have
tons and tons of rooms
[10:51] in an old house like this one.
[10:55] And the estimates are
that, again, maybe--
[11:00] well, I'm not sure.
[11:02] I can't remember how many
boarding houses there
[11:04] are in town, but
it still doesn't
[11:06] hold all of the University
of Michigan students.
[11:09] So where else were they living?
[11:13] So you've seen
historic pictures.
[11:16] Now we're going to go to the
next source of information,
[11:18] which is an amazing
source of information,
[11:20] which is the Michigan Daily.
[11:22] And this is an article
from October of 1914.
[11:26] And this is when the
university is starting
[11:28] to add more and more students.
[11:30] We now talk about how oh, we've
got hundreds of more students.
[11:34] And indeed, the same
thing was happening then.
[11:37] And what's happening
is people are really
[11:40] worried in town about the
enormous number of rooming
[11:45] houses that are needed.
[11:46] And I want to point out,
these do not provide food
[11:49] for the students in most cases.
[11:51] And so then they're
saying, look.
[11:54] Look at how many
more loaves of bread,
[11:57] 4,500 more loaves of bread and
1,500 pounds of meat are needed
[12:02] each day, they're predicting,
for the number of students
[12:07] on campus.
[12:09] So the picture I'm painting for
you is that groups of people
[12:14] that are coming together
to share a meal is not part
[12:19] of the Michigan experience,
except for those few people who
[12:22] can live in the dorm or to
get into their fraternities
[12:24] and sororities during
the early 20th century.
[12:30] So with that, what meals were
really important to students.
[12:35] What gave them that
sense of community,
[12:39] not just sharing
a boarding house
[12:41] or finding meals somewhere at
some place that offered meals,
[12:45] and there were a lot
of them in Ann Arbor
[12:47] because they were living
in the rooming houses.
[12:52] So this whole context
has really led
[12:56] me to appreciate what I've
been seeing in the Michigan
[13:00] scrapbooks.
[13:01] And so that's what I want to
turn to now and just tell you
[13:05] a little bit about
this amazing collection
[13:08] that the Bentley library has.
[13:10] And I didn't know
about this until I
[13:13] was asked to teach a
class for the bicentennial
[13:15] called Food at U of
M. And I said, great,
[13:18] but I'm an archeologist.
[13:19] We got to start in the past.
[13:21] Because I know that thinking
about the past helps
[13:24] us think about where we are and
where we're going in the future.
[13:28] And so this led me to start
thinking about special meals,
[13:33] too.
[13:34] Not just everyday
meals, but those meals
[13:37] where you have an
intentional gathering,
[13:39] and maybe you have
some nicer food,
[13:42] and how that must have been
so important for University
[13:45] of Michigan students.
[13:47] So let me tell you a little bit
about this amazing collection.
[13:51] There's over 120 U of M student
scrapbooks in the Bentley
[13:56] Library collection.
[13:59] The earliest ones that
I've seen are from 1870.
[14:03] So about 30 years after the
University is established.
[14:07] And then they go
up into the 40s.
[14:09] Is there one in the 50s?
[14:11] Was that the one you showed me?
[14:12] There may be just a few.
[14:14] But this first decade
of the 20th century.
[14:20] And actually by that, I
mean from 1910 to 1920.
[14:22] So I guess it's
the second decade.
[14:25] Is a time when lots of students
seem to be scrapbooking
[14:29] and lots of students
donated their scrapbooks
[14:31] to the Bentley Library.
[14:33] So there's at least
50 from this decade
[14:36] that I could use
in this research.
[14:38] And what you can
see here, you can
[14:40] see how somebody's written the
years on the block M there.
[14:43] And many of them are
in these type of books.
[14:46] So it looks like
it was something
[14:47] that the bookstores in
town were selling as part
[14:50] of your momentos of Michigan.
[14:55] So these scrapbooks
are kind of a goldmine.
[15:01] And one of the things that I
realized that I needed to do
[15:05] is I start this started
this project was
[15:07] to start going through them.
[15:10] And oh, my gosh, they can
turn into such a rabbit hole.
[15:13] But I was like,
you're just looking
[15:15] for the banquet programs.
[15:16] Just look for the
banquet programs.
[15:18] And so I've been through
quite a few of them
[15:22] and looking for information for
my students to use in the class.
[15:27] And of the approximately
40 that I've looked at,
[15:34] the vast majority
of them actually
[15:35] have banquet programs in them.
[15:38] So that should
tell you that these
[15:43] were important to students.
[15:45] They actually were saving
them for their scrapbook.
[15:48] And unlike now, where students
are taking pictures and posting
[15:51] them on their social media as
their memories, the scrapbooks
[15:55] or their memories
of what they wanted
[15:57] to keep from
University of Michigan.
[16:00] So banquet programs are popular.
[16:05] Some scrapbooks only
have one, and some
[16:08] have as much as 14 banquet
programs saved in them.
[16:13] Lots of times, they're
from the same organization.
[16:17] And I have to say, it's the
men who are saving more banquet
[16:22] programs than the women.
[16:24] Some of that, I
think, is because they
[16:26] had more organizations
that they were
[16:28] belonging to and more
organizations that
[16:30] were hosting banquets.
[16:34] So the organizations that
were hosting the banquets
[16:37] are what you'd expect,
fraternities and sororities.
[16:41] But there's also some
religious organizations around.
[16:45] There's a young
Baptist Guild that
[16:47] regularly holds some banquets.
[16:50] And then there's also just
general organizations,
[16:57] and I'll give you some examples,
like the Women's League
[17:00] at the University of Michigan.
[17:02] The other thing that
I want to point out
[17:04] is the fraternities
at this time for men.
[17:08] They're both
professional fraternities
[17:10] and then what we'd think
of as now fraternities.
[17:14] And some of those professional
fraternities have had houses
[17:19] and some did not.
[17:22] But what's important
for you to also know
[17:24] that I've been hinting at
is that these banquets are--
[17:30] there's women's banquets,
and there's men's banquets.
[17:33] I have not found any
examples of co-ed banquets.
[17:36] There are a few co-ed
clubs on campus,
[17:40] but the banquets
themselves are not co-ed.
[17:45] All right.
[17:46] So here's what some
scrapbook pages look like.
[17:49] And the one on your left
is from Karl Brandt,
[17:54] and it gives you the
dates that he was here
[17:56] at the University of Michigan.
[17:57] And you can see Karl
really loved his banquets.
[18:00] And so you can actually
see four of them on top.
[18:04] And actually, under that
purple piece of paper
[18:06] is yet another banquet there.
[18:08] And you can also get an idea
of the different organizations
[18:12] that he was part of.
[18:14] Alpha Nu was what the yearbook
called an oratory association.
[18:21] And it actually focuses on
debate and speech-making
[18:25] and things like that.
[18:27] And it actually has 70 members
when I went in the yearbook
[18:31] and counted the number
of members in 1920.
[18:34] So a lot.
[18:34] They don't have a house.
[18:35] It's just an organization.
[18:37] But they have banquets twice
a year, at least twice a year.
[18:42] So he has several of them
from this organization.
[18:47] And then you can also
see delta theta phi,
[18:50] which is known at that
time as the law fraternity.
[18:53] They do have a
house, and there's
[18:56] about 45 members in
that house in 1920,
[19:00] so overlaps with Carl's time.
[19:03] And then the other one on your
right is from Gertrude Benson.
[19:07] And Gertrude actually
loved her scrapbook.
[19:10] She kept names of people that
she saw, that she regularly
[19:14] visited with in the front.
[19:16] And the other thing is she has a
sort of her years of calendars,
[19:20] and she marks down
important things on it,
[19:24] like Armistice Day from World
War I is marked in there.
[19:29] And you can see
on there, and I'll
[19:31] talk about these
a little bit more.
[19:33] The banquets with
the flags on them
[19:35] are from the Michigan women's
luncheon, which is once a year,
[19:40] and it's sponsored
by the league, when
[19:44] it was an organization that then
led to building the building.
[19:49] That's the league
on campus today.
[19:51] So it was for all women at
the University of Michigan.
[19:55] And then she also has
the YWCA on there.
[19:59] Very, very, very active
on campus at this time.
[20:04] And in fact, the
YWCA banquet programs
[20:10] are the most frequently
collected by women that I've
[20:14] looked at their scrapbooks.
[20:16] And then the second is
the Michigan League,
[20:19] the women's luncheons.
[20:21] All righty.
[20:23] And the other thing I want
to point out about Gertrude
[20:26] is she's an example of someone
who went to YWCA banquet
[20:32] during her freshman year.
[20:34] And many of the students who
kept multiple banquet programs
[20:39] went to a banquet during their
first year here at Michigan.
[20:43] So again, you can see, they
were creating special places
[20:47] with these banquets.
[20:50] All right.
[20:51] I've been talking a
lot about banquets.
[20:53] And anthropologists
have actually
[20:55] thought about how do
you define a banquet.
[20:58] So let's think about that.
[21:00] With a student banquet.
[21:01] And the Michigan
banquets are not
[21:03] nearly as elaborate or
entertaining as the Harry Potter
[21:07] banquets are, but
you can think about
[21:10] the general characteristics of
a banquet using that picture.
[21:14] And student banquets in
particular, it's a gathering.
[21:18] It's usually a large gathering
of people coming together.
[21:21] And it has a purpose.
[21:23] And that purpose is
to honor something
[21:27] or to be together for something.
[21:29] For the fraternities.
[21:31] There's usually a banquet
for initiation, and actually
[21:33] the sororities too.
[21:35] So there is a purpose
of coming together.
[21:39] And then it's not just like
sitting down and eating
[21:42] Thanksgiving dinner.
[21:43] It's not just a big feast.
[21:45] They're actually events that
happen at these banquets.
[21:49] And lots of times, what's
happening is there's toasts.
[21:53] Sometimes, there's speeches.
[21:54] Sometimes, there's performances
happening, depending
[21:57] on how big the banquet is.
[21:59] And then the other thing
is there's sumptuous
[22:03] food is one of the definitions.
[22:05] And I asked my
first year students
[22:07] what they thought
about a sumptuous.
[22:09] And for them, it was plentiful.
[22:11] Well, that's important.
[22:12] But I was like, I also
think of it as luxurious.
[22:17] Luxury food or expensive or
at least looking expensive.
[22:23] So that should tell
you that not only do
[22:25] we have lots of
food and nice food,
[22:29] but it can be food that's
presented in a certain way
[22:32] to look nicely.
[22:35] All right.
[22:36] With that introduction,
let me now
[22:38] move to showing you some
of the banquet programs
[22:44] and what I've learned from them.
[22:46] And this is where we will get
into a little bit of thinking
[22:49] about the context of food here
within the greater Ann Arbor.
[22:55] And I'm going to ask a
little call and response.
[22:58] We don't need the mics
for this because I'll
[22:59] repeat the answers on
that because they'll just
[23:02] be shouting out.
[23:04] All right.
[23:05] So here is another
student, Stanley Lowe.
[23:08] And again, his years at
University of Michigan.
[23:11] And this banquet is
the alpha chi sigma.
[23:18] And then again, this is
a law-focused fraternity.
[23:22] They do have a house.
[23:23] And in 1920, right
before this banquet,
[23:27] there were about 53 members.
[23:30] I don't know if all of them
were living at the house.
[23:32] What's interesting about
this one is at the bottom,
[23:35] you can see that it wasn't
being held at the house.
[23:39] It was being held
at Delta Cafe, which
[23:42] is one of the institutions,
sort of the eating institutions
[23:46] around campus that had rooms
big enough to hold a larger
[23:49] party at them, and I can't
remember exactly where
[23:52] it is, I apologize.
[23:54] This banquet is in May of 1919.
[23:58] So World War I has
recently ended,
[24:02] and life is getting
back to normal.
[24:05] And let me show you
first the events that
[24:08] happened at the
banquet, and this
[24:09] is very typical for
the banquet programs,
[24:12] is there's a list of names of
people that are there and toast
[24:18] that they're giving.
[24:20] And this is pretty
interesting to look at these.
[24:22] This is pretty bare minimum.
[24:24] Sometimes, they give
titles of toast,
[24:25] and there's little quotes
that are used underneath them.
[24:30] But even from this
bare minimum, you
[24:33] can see that the first person
up there, who's the toastmaster,
[24:38] is Dr. Britton.
[24:41] And then the last person down
there is Professor Kraemer.
[24:46] The two people in between,
the two top people I think
[24:51] are, I know at least
one of them was
[24:53] one of the members of the
fraternity at the time.
[24:56] And then I think the other
people that are on there
[24:59] are members of other
chapters of the fraternity.
[25:02] So I can't tell you
exactly how many people
[25:04] were at this banquet,
but there were probably
[25:10] a lot of people from the
fraternity and then these people
[25:14] who were giving
speeches and toast.
[25:18] Well, I looked up
Dr. Britton because I
[25:20] like to snoop on the people who
are in the banquet programs.
[25:23] And he had just received his PhD
from the University of Michigan
[25:30] in chemistry, and he
came to this event.
[25:34] He was a fellow, a
post-doctoral fellow,
[25:36] and he was teaching at the
university at the time.
[25:38] And it was just
about before he was
[25:40] about to go off and get a
great job at Dow Chemical.
[25:43] So here we have a fraternity
that then allows--
[25:52] and actually, I think
I said this was law.
[25:54] I think this is
the chemistry one.
[25:55] I apologize.
[25:57] Too many Greek letters for
me to keep them all straight.
[26:01] But here's a postdoc that's
about to get a great job.
[26:07] That's at this banquet.
[26:09] And then Dr. Kraemer
was the Dean of Pharmacy
[26:13] during this year.
[26:15] So again, think about this.
[26:18] This is a fraternity where
there's lots of guys there,
[26:22] and they're having
dinner and listening
[26:25] to toasts from a postdoc and
the Dean of the Pharmacy school
[26:30] here.
[26:31] So immediately creating
this sense of belonging
[26:35] and sharing a meal together.
[26:39] So what was on the
meal that night?
[26:41] Well, this is pretty typical for
banquets, especially the dinner
[26:48] ones, where you start with
soup and then the celery
[26:51] and radishes that are out there
are a cold plate that's probably
[26:54] on the table.
[26:55] And then you have
broiled sirloin steak
[26:59] with potatoes, early June peas.
[27:02] And then you have
some hot rolls,
[27:04] and then you have the
salad is the next course.
[27:07] This is very standard.
[27:09] So it's a fruit salad with
Saratoga chips, which are
[27:12] the precursor to potato chips.
[27:15] And then for dessert, you have
strawberry shortcake a la mode
[27:21] and then coffee.
[27:23] And at this time,
at this time, one
[27:29] of the people who has been
hosting events on campus
[27:32] is Mrs. James Angell.
[27:34] And in the front of
the Ann Arbor cookbook
[27:40] that was published in 1904,
I'll show you a copy of it,
[27:43] this is kind of laying out what
she views as a nice dinner.
[27:46] The soup and the cold
plates and then the
[27:49] entrees with potatoes and
then the salad and dessert.
[27:53] And she says, and of course,
you always end with coffee.
[27:58] And clearly, here you end
with coffee and cigarettes.
[28:01] And that's very common on
the fraternity banquets.
[28:05] But I like to imagine
what's happening.
[28:08] And Mrs. Angell said,
you really should
[28:10] have coffee like in
the sitting room,
[28:12] if there's another place for
people to get up from the table.
[28:14] And so again, imagine
the conversations
[28:18] that are happening
after this meal
[28:20] that you've had
together with toasts
[28:22] and chatting with people
and things like that.
[28:26] All right.
[28:27] One of the things I want to
tell you that we've looked
[28:31] at probably close to 30
banquet programs now,
[28:37] and they're split about
50/50 men and women.
[28:41] And beef really only
occurs on the men's menu.
[28:48] So it was clearly
something that men
[28:51] at the University
of Michigan thought
[28:52] should be part of
a special meal,
[28:54] and this even looks like it
might be a nice cut of beef.
[28:59] And then this is a may menu.
[29:02] And one of the other things that
I've noticed for spring menus
[29:08] in particular is that
they're highlighting
[29:11] things that are in season.
[29:15] What on this menu
is in season in May.
[29:18] And our early June
peas are coming in.
[29:21] And I want to point out that
May 1919 is when the Ann Arbor
[29:26] Farmers Market opened.
[29:27] So I don't know if they were
shopping at the Ann Arbor
[29:30] Farmers Market, but
they could have been.
[29:33] So we have peas.
[29:34] What else would be in season?
[29:37] Potentially strawberries.
[29:38] It's a little early
for strawberries,
[29:40] but many of the May menus
have strawberries on them.
[29:43] So if they weren't
around in Ann Arbor,
[29:45] I wonder if that was
a special thing that
[29:46] was being shipped in from just
a little bit further south.
[29:50] So fresh strawberries.
[29:52] And then the other thing is
probably radishes, all right?
[29:56] And I want you to think
about this time period
[29:59] in terms of why they call
them early June peas.
[30:03] Because this is not
the only banquet
[30:06] menu that I've seen them on.
[30:08] It's because the alternative
to peas at this time
[30:13] was canned peas.
[30:15] There are no freezers to
put birdseye frozen peas
[30:19] in because they haven't
been invented yet.
[30:22] All right.
[30:23] So what I want you to see is
that one of the things that
[30:26] can make this meal
sumptuous is that you
[30:31] have beef on it for
the guys, and then you
[30:34] have this fresh produce on it.
[30:36] And then some of these things
are prepared in a nice way too.
[30:39] So here's where I have to get
a little food geeky on you.
[30:43] So I have been thinking a lot
about changes in the food system
[30:47] here in Ann Arbor.
[30:48] And so this is yet another
document that I've used.
[30:51] Because the USDA has
an agricultural census
[30:57] that goes out every five years.
[30:59] And so around the
time of that banquet,
[31:02] they should have
done one in 1920,
[31:04] but because they were just
coming off World War I,
[31:08] they were still
recouping from it.
[31:11] So they don't have a full one.
[31:12] But the amazing thing is they've
got a breakdown of the farms
[31:17] by county.
[31:19] And not only the number of
farms but the size of the farms
[31:22] and what they were
growing on those farms.
[31:25] So Washtenaw County had about
3,500 farms at this time.
[31:32] The average size was
about 100 acres-ish.
[31:36] 88% of the county
was in farmland.
[31:41] Pretty impressive.
[31:42] And of those 3,500 farms, 126
of them were actually producing
[31:49] strawberries.
[31:51] Lots of strawberries being
produced in Ann Arbor.
[31:54] And I don't know about the
vegetables, but over 200 of them
[31:58] list that they're producing
sort of green vegetables,
[32:01] the specific vegetables.
[32:03] The other thing that constantly
blows me away is 2,600 of those
[32:09] farms were producing dairy.
[32:13] So the milk for that
ice cream on there
[32:16] and the butter that I might
have gone on the potatoes
[32:20] may have also been local.
[32:22] All right?
[32:23] So I just want you to think
about that farming system.
[32:27] And how lucky we are,
back then and still today,
[32:32] to have local food that
could be potentially served
[32:35] on one of these banquets.
[32:38] All right.
[32:39] So this is pretty typical
of fraternity sorority
[32:42] type of banquet.
[32:44] Let me now turn to some
of the other banquets.
[32:49] And the one I chose was the
Michigan Women's Luncheon.
[32:53] So this is a luncheon now.
[32:55] And this one is a little bit
special because it's the 25th
[32:59] anniversary of the founding
of the Women's League here
[33:03] at Michigan.
[33:05] So again, this is April of 1915.
[33:10] So the Women's League, which is
an organization for all women
[33:15] on campus and alumni.
[33:18] You had to pay some dues,
but it was standard.
[33:21] People were expected to join.
[33:25] It's founded in 1890, 20
years after the first woman
[33:30] is admitted into the
University of Michigan.
[33:34] Michigan women
realized that they
[33:36] needed to create a
sense of community,
[33:38] and they're pretty
forthright about these guys,
[33:44] they got fraternities,
and they've
[33:45] got other places
they can hang out.
[33:47] There's nothing for women.
[33:49] This is the
organization that fights
[33:51] for a women's dorm on campus.
[33:54] And that's at Barber Gym, where
they could have large events
[33:57] and have their sports too.
[34:00] And also, they eventually
fight for the creation
[34:04] of the league, the
beautiful building
[34:06] that we have on campus now.
[34:10] All right.
[34:10] 25th anniversary.
[34:12] And I can tell you--
[34:14] now I'm going to forget how many
women are on campus at the time.
[34:17] It's definitely over 2,000 women
were on campus at the time.
[34:21] So this doesn't give, it doesn't
tell me who's at the banquet.
[34:26] So once again, we have to do a
little research in the Michigan
[34:30] Daily.
[34:31] And sure enough, two
days after the banquet,
[34:36] here's what shows up
in the Michigan Daily.
[34:39] 350 women.
[34:43] University of Michigan.
[34:44] Current students and
alumni are at this banquet.
[34:50] And the article even
tells me that there
[34:52] are 16 tables laid out in a
special birthday table, too,
[34:55] and that they're
decorated with pink
[34:57] and purple and Easter lilies.
[35:02] So what you can see
is this was probably
[35:05] one of, besides
the football games,
[35:07] were one of the bigger
events on campus
[35:09] and probably the biggest
social event for women
[35:14] on campus at this time.
[35:16] And they invited a few men to
come to this luncheon and speak.
[35:21] And I want to say that
Madeleine Stockwell was
[35:26] one of the speakers--
the first woman
[35:28] to be admitted to the University
was one of the speakers
[35:31] at this event, if
I remember right.
[35:33] I might be mixing that
up with another one.
[35:35] But people that are
speaking is the president
[35:37] of the university at the
time and James Angell,
[35:40] who had retired a few
years before as president
[35:43] and is well-known
for encouraging
[35:48] women's organizations and
encouraging women on campus.
[35:53] What did these
ladies have at their.
[35:55] Their luncheon.
[35:56] And this menu is a
little harder to see.
[36:00] So I wrote it out.
[36:01] We've got a creamed
chicken and potato souffle.
[36:05] I'm trying to imagine
potato souffle for 350
[36:09] people in a big gymnasium.
[36:11] Did they put them in the little
individual cups or did they--
[36:14] how did they do that?
[36:15] The logistics are, I'm
thinking about it a lot.
[36:19] And the rolls and
jelly, and then we
[36:21] have the Macedoine
salad, which is a finely
[36:25] chopped up salad,
wafers and olives again,
[36:29] probably on the table.
[36:31] Caramel ice cream
and cake and coffee.
[36:35] All right.
[36:35] So this menu has got
me thinking about,
[36:39] for 350 people, the
preparation that was going
[36:42] into it and the presentation.
[36:44] And so to do this,
we take a field trip
[36:49] to the special collections here
at the University of Michigan
[36:53] to the Janice Bluestein
Longone Culinary Archive.
[36:57] And look at cookbooks there.
[37:01] I have fallen in love
with old cookbooks,
[37:03] and this is actually
one that I found online.
[37:06] So I purchased it.
[37:08] You can see it digitally.
[37:10] It's on the Ann Arbor District
public library website.
[37:13] So if you're curious, this was
published in 1904 by one of the,
[37:18] I think it's the
Methodist church in town.
[37:20] Again, I'm not remembering
my details really well.
[37:23] But it has some great recipes.
[37:25] And this is the one for
the Macedoine salad.
[37:29] And it doesn't look like much.
[37:31] It's got carrots and
turnips, and you wash them,
[37:34] and you peel them,
and you cut them up.
[37:36] And then you mix a
lot of vegetables
[37:38] together with either French
dressing or mayonnaise.
[37:44] And you can do a lot of
different types of vegetables.
[37:47] I decided to try to
make this one time,
[37:50] and the name means that
you have perfectly cut
[37:53] squares of these vegetables.
[37:56] That's how it's
supposed to look.
[37:58] After about 10
minutes of that, I
[37:59] was like, there's no way
I'm cutting these things
[38:02] into perfectly cut squares.
[38:04] So we're having the salad.
[38:05] Just my knife skills
aren't that good.
[38:07] But again, it's thinking
about that presentation
[38:11] that would have come out as this
beautifully presented salad.
[38:17] So the other thing I've
been thinking about
[38:19] is these meals look
nice, but they don't
[38:23] look super, super elaborate.
[38:26] And so how do they differ
from everyday meals?
[38:31] And so to figure that out, I
turned to another book from
[38:36] the early 1900s.
[38:38] And this is Mrs. Rorer's
Everyday Menu Book.
[38:43] Mrs. Rorer was like the
Martha Stewart of her time.
[38:48] Cookbooks, cooking classes.
[38:51] She creates the
Philadelphia Cooking School.
[38:54] She is in charge of meals
at two world's fairs
[38:58] in one of the houses.
[39:00] She is like a big deal
with cooking at this time.
[39:05] She publishes this book in 1905.
[39:07] And the beautiful thing
about Mrs. Rorer's is
[39:10] she has a menu for
every day of the year.
[39:17] Which sometimes, I think,
oh, I would love this,
[39:20] but oh, my gosh, there are a
lot of things on those menus.
[39:23] But Mrs. Rorer, her goal for her
audience is East Coast folks.
[39:30] She's in Philadelphia.
[39:31] And she's catering towards
middle class, upper middle class
[39:37] women, and she's setting
the standards for what
[39:41] people are aspiring to.
[39:44] So let's take a look at
one of her menu pages.
[39:49] And I picked April because you
saw a menu-- because the women's
[39:54] banquet was from April.
[39:56] And so what you're seeing,
this is just one page,
[40:00] and this is the
first Sunday in April
[40:02] and the first Monday in April.
[40:04] And you can see she has
recommendations for breakfast.
[40:06] I don't know what all
these things are on here,
[40:08] but stick with me as an example.
[40:11] And then I want you
to see that Sunday,
[40:13] dinner is in the
middle of the day.
[40:16] So this is, sort of larger meal,
probably after you came home
[40:20] from church.
[40:21] That's there.
[40:22] And can see that order.
[40:24] She has a soup,
she has an entree,
[40:27] which is duck and stuffing
with some vegetables,
[40:32] the stewed turnips.
[40:33] Then she has celery.
[40:35] Then she has peach ice cream.
[40:36] That's from canned peaches.
[40:38] And she actually really
is advocating people using
[40:41] fresh produce and fresh fruit.
[40:44] So this is a big deal for
her to put canned on there.
[40:47] She seems to think like
canned peaches are OK.
[40:49] And then she has a
sponge cake, and then you
[40:51] have a lighter dinner.
[40:54] So I like to count things.
[40:56] So I went through every single
of her-- well, first of all,
[41:02] I did a scan on this book
because it's digital,
[41:05] and looked at how
many places ice
[41:07] cream was served on the menu.
[41:11] And it was served on 20 Sundays,
so a little less than half
[41:16] of the year, and
only eight weekdays.
[41:20] And one of them was
because it was left over
[41:22] from the Sunday ice cream.
[41:24] Because she also liked
to encourage people to do
[41:27] leftovers.
[41:29] But then I was like, hmm,
most of the banquet menus
[41:35] have cake and ice cream.
[41:37] The one you saw at
the Women's League
[41:39] had the caramel
ice cream and cake.
[41:42] And then the one I
showed you of the men's
[41:44] had strawberry shortcake a la
mode with the ice cream on it.
[41:50] And there are only
three sundaes where
[41:54] you get cake and ice cream.
[41:58] OK.
[41:58] So this is making me
think about the meals that
[42:01] were served at the banquets.
[42:03] They were like a nice Sunday
meal at home with a family.
[42:07] But it had special desserts
because you got cake and ice
[42:11] cream together.
[42:14] And so I also want you to think
about, this is prior to 1920.
[42:20] And there are a lot of
ice cream stores in town,
[42:23] and they've got the
electric ice cream makers.
[42:26] But there's no freezers.
[42:30] There may have been freezers
here at the university.
[42:32] I don't know how much
advanced technology.
[42:35] But in the smaller
ice cream shops
[42:37] and definitely in people's
homes, there's no freezers.
[42:41] So when you're making
that ice cream,
[42:44] you've got the buckets
of ice and salt,
[42:47] and then you've got the mixture
of the ice cream in the middle.
[42:51] And you might have electricity
to churn it now in the 19 teens.
[42:57] But you're making ice
cream, and it's not
[43:00] lasting more than very long.
[43:05] All right?
[43:05] So now think about a gymnasium
in April with 350 women in it,
[43:13] and you've got ice cream going
out to each of those tables.
[43:17] And you don't have ice cream
that has the stabilizers in it
[43:20] today.
[43:21] I mean, our ice
cream still melts.
[43:23] But that ice cream
is going out fast.
[43:25] Or the other thing is it's
going out in little bowls.
[43:29] It's nested bowls with
ice in it to keep it cold.
[43:35] But cold desserts are really,
really special at this time.
[43:40] Going out for ice cream is
one of the favorite things
[43:43] that University of
Michigan students do.
[43:45] And I can tell you because
I see so many ads for ice
[43:49] cream in the Michigan Daily.
[43:51] So ice cream was
a favorite thing.
[43:53] And here, we have it
on the banquet menus.
[43:58] So what have I learned
from the banquets?
[44:00] Creating this sense of community
was this group together.
[44:04] Coming together because
they had a purpose.
[44:09] They wanted to be in
that community together.
[44:12] Lots of times, people were doing
this during their freshman year.
[44:16] They had a nice meal
together, and it
[44:19] was like a home cooked Sunday
dinner with two desserts.
[44:24] So cake and ice
cream were helping
[44:26] create that sense of community.
[44:31] So that's all I'm going to
talk about the banquets,
[44:33] but I have a couple
other things that I've
[44:35] learned from this class that
I just want to share with you.
[44:38] One of the things that I like
to do as an archeologist is
[44:41] think about what I
learned from the past
[44:43] and how I can see
things that help inform
[44:49] where we're living now,
and potentially where
[44:51] we're going in the future.
[44:53] And one of the absolutely
unexpected things
[44:56] about teaching this class was
learning about the other things
[45:01] that students were thinking
about in terms of food.
[45:05] In terms of not just
what they were eating
[45:08] and where they were
getting their meals
[45:10] and who they were eating
with, but they were also
[45:14] thinking about the
interconnections of food
[45:18] and other things
that were happening
[45:19] in their lives, especially
the students in 1917 and 1918.
[45:28] So let me show you
something else I found
[45:30] in Gertrude Benson's scrapbook.
[45:32] Oh, sorry.
[45:33] That's the cake and
ice cream thing.
[45:35] You again probably
can't read this,
[45:37] but it says disloyalty in little
things gives aid to the enemy.
[45:42] Keep this pledge.
[45:44] Eat sufficient food
to maintain health
[45:46] but observe meatless
Mondays and Wednesdays
[45:50] and one meatless meal every day.
[45:53] Meatless Tuesdays and one
meatless meal every day.
[45:57] And also Saturday, be porkless.
[46:00] Don't waste the sugar
we ordinarily use
[46:04] twice as much as is necessary.
[46:08] This was a pledge that was
going out during World War I.
[46:11] Because the US
was sending troops
[46:14] over to Europe that
had been involved
[46:17] in a war for several
years before,
[46:19] and there wasn't much food.
[46:22] And so they were asking
people in the United States
[46:25] to conserve food so that it
could be sent to the troops.
[46:29] And one of the
things that's amazing
[46:32] is that it's the students
driving this change here
[46:37] in Ann Arbor.
[46:38] There are article after
article in the daily
[46:41] about, oh, this
many fraternities
[46:43] have now signed the pledges.
[46:46] Signed a pledge to not be
eating meat one day a week
[46:51] at least and maybe
some other meals.
[46:54] And the sororities
join, and then
[46:58] also the women's dorms join.
[47:01] And the articles are about like
everybody should be doing this.
[47:06] We need to support our troops.
[47:09] And one of the things that's
also interesting for me
[47:12] is how the federal
government was rolling out
[47:15] these recommendations.
[47:17] And this is one of
their flyers that's
[47:20] talking about if you
look at 1, 2, 4, and 6,
[47:25] those are all about
don't waste food.
[47:28] And then 3 is about
eating less meat and meat.
[47:32] And then 4 is buy local.
[47:36] Students, again, were
driving this change
[47:38] and doing these
things voluntarily.
[47:41] In fact, many students in
terms of the local food system,
[47:45] there are pictures again and
articles in the Michigan Daily
[47:50] talking about how women's groups
called farmettes are going out
[47:54] to help pick with the cherries
and the apples and things
[47:57] like that because a lot of
the men have gone off to war.
[47:59] And so they aren't there to help
with the agricultural labor.
[48:05] When I saw this flyer, I
felt like I had deja vu.
[48:11] Because if you know
anything about what's
[48:13] been happening on this
campus in the last 20 years,
[48:18] you will know that there's a
lot of conversations about food.
[48:24] And they actually
parallel what's
[48:26] happening during World War I.
[48:29] For example, there's
a big effort on campus
[48:34] now to do a lot of composting
and a lot of recycling.
[48:37] It's in Ann Arbor in general
because that's the kind of town
[48:40] we're living in.
[48:41] But this is a graphic from
the Office of Sustainability.
[48:45] And the dining halls start
thinking about composting
[48:50] in the late 1990s because
of a student sustainability
[48:55] organization.
[48:57] So here we have students
driving the don't waste food.
[49:02] Or if there's going
to be waste, let's
[49:03] turn it into beautiful soil
that we can then grow things in.
[49:10] And then in the early
2000, their students
[49:14] living in East
Quad, and they start
[49:15] talking to one of the
chefs, and they're
[49:17] like, where are you
getting your produce from?
[49:20] And he's like, well, I'm just
ordering it like from Cisco
[49:22] and places like Gordon Foods.
[49:24] And they're like, wait, we
live in this place with all
[49:27] these farms around?
[49:29] Why can't we have some-- well,
sorry, I'm jumping ahead.
[49:35] I'll go right there.
[49:36] Why can't we have
some local food?
[49:38] And this starts
the conversations
[49:41] about the campus farm and
that we should have a campus
[49:44] farm, which started in 2012.
[49:46] And then the goal
of the campus farm
[49:49] is for students to
grow food for students.
[49:54] Students growing
food for students.
[49:56] And then they came up with this
idea of having a farm stand,
[50:00] which is on campus every
Thursday afternoon from noon
[50:05] to 3:00, providing fresh
produce from the campus farm,
[50:10] and students get a 30% discount.
[50:13] So you can get fresh produce.
[50:15] And then the other
thing, and this
[50:17] was the East Quad story
that I was starting to tell
[50:19] and got things intertwined,
is that it was at East Quad
[50:23] where they were also
saying, you know what?
[50:25] Why don't we think about
eating more sustainably.
[50:28] And so they actually had
Meatless Mondays for a while.
[50:31] Unfortunately, a lot
of students on campus
[50:34] decided they weren't going
to go to Meatless Mondays
[50:36] at East Quad.
[50:37] But that started a
conversation about how can we
[50:40] encourage students to
think about the carbon
[50:42] footprint of their diet?
[50:45] And so now, there's
plant forward
[50:50] days, sustainable
days, sustainable
[50:53] meals in the dining halls.
[50:58] So here we have an example of
100 years of student activism
[51:05] on this campus, really driving
a conversation about food
[51:10] and what food should happen
on campus that we can still
[51:13] see in these initiatives today.
[51:16] And the emphasis in
World War I, the students
[51:20] were doing it for the troops.
[51:22] It was their patriotic duty.
[51:23] But today, the students
are now thinking about it
[51:26] in terms of sustainability
and the future of this planet.
[51:30] So that's been a really
inspiring thing for me
[51:34] to just learn about the power of
student activism on this campus.
[51:41] So with that, I want to
thank you for coming,
[51:43] and I want to acknowledge a few
people, a few organizations.
[51:47] I am so grateful to be teaching
at the University of Michigan
[51:52] that preserves a lot
of its resources.
[51:55] This beautiful building,
the scrapbook collection
[51:57] at the Bentley Library, and then
the Janice Bluestein Longone
[52:02] Culinary Archive.
[52:04] The archivists at
the Bentley Library
[52:07] have been working with me to
help me develop this project
[52:10] for almost 10 years now.
[52:12] And this afternoon, Caitlin
Moriarty and Sarah McCluskey,
[52:17] they're helping
me with the class
[52:19] and are always so
welcoming to me when
[52:21] I go to look at the scrapbooks.
[52:25] A few years ago, it was
only a temporary program,
[52:27] but the Bentley Library also
had a teaching with the Archives
[52:30] Fellowship, and I got to be
part of that for one semester
[52:35] and with a cluster
of faculty members,
[52:38] where we got together
and talked once a month,
[52:40] and then the archivists
were there to help me.
[52:42] And it really
transformed this class
[52:45] by being able to
be part of that.
[52:47] And then if you have never been
to the Janice Bloustein Longone
[52:50] Culinary Archive, I highly
encourage you to go.
[52:54] In fact, there is an event
next Monday that's going to be
[53:00] about-- they're starting an
exhibit that's about cooking
[53:04] in the 1920s and all the changes
in technology that was going on.
[53:09] And they're going to have
special chocolate cake.
[53:12] And I'm definitely going
because I've been wanting
[53:15] to try this cake for a while.
[53:17] And it's the Wesleyan
College fudge chocolate cake.
[53:21] So it's in the graduate
library, the Hatcher Library.
[53:27] It's afternoon, and I
didn't write down the times.
[53:31] I think it starts at
4:00 in the afternoon,
[53:33] 4 o'clock in the afternoon.
[53:35] Yeah.
[53:35] And it's on the library website.
[53:39] So you can look it up.
[53:41] And then finally, I want
to thank the students
[53:43] from the class
because I couldn't
[53:45] have gone through all
these banquet programs
[53:47] without them and
their questions.
[53:49] And me thinking about how to
engage them with the archive
[53:52] has really been pushing
me in ways that I never
[53:56] thought I'd be pushed before.
[53:58] So thank you very much, and I'm
happy to answer any questions.
[54:01] [APPLAUSE]
[54:06] We want to start with you.
[54:08] Andrew's going to start.
[54:09] So save that question.
[54:11] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: So as the
host, I'm going to be rude
[54:14] and use my power to ask a couple
questions that I think are I'm
[54:16] really curious about.
[54:17] Because this is
absolutely fascinating,
[54:19] and it's so great to see the
material, like reality of these
[54:25] through these menus.
[54:27] But I'm curious about--
[54:29] well, many things.
[54:30] But the first thing
I'm curious about
[54:32] is you have a sense who is
actually preparing these meals.
[54:34] I mean, you mentioned the
Delta Cafe as a restaurant.
[54:37] It was a restaurant staff?
[54:39] Was it something else?
[54:40] LISA YOUNG: Yeah, it's
a fascinating question,
[54:42] and I haven't been able to crack
that nut yet because that sort
[54:49] of information is not recorded,
except the library just
[54:55] published Ella Hall's recipe
book that's from the 1930s
[55:00] and '40s.
[55:01] Ella Hall was an African
American woman who lived in town
[55:05] and had several boarding houses.
[55:07] One of which is right by the
Ann Arbor Farmer's Market.
[55:10] Every time I walk
past it, I'm like, oh,
[55:12] somebody needs to buy this
house and just love it
[55:14] because it needs some work.
[55:17] And you can see that
this was a lovely house
[55:20] and that she was
probably proud of.
[55:22] This recipe book was a notebook,
and it has clipped out recipes.
[55:28] It has some handwritten recipes.
[55:30] But the beautiful thing is
it has Ella's notes in it.
[55:34] And so her devil's
food cake says
[55:38] that it comes from a recipe
from the Ann Arbor cookbook.
[55:41] There are only two
devil's food cake recipes
[55:43] in the Ann Arbor cookbook.
[55:45] So I can even tell you that
the recipe's on page 313
[55:49] because I looked it up.
[55:50] But it also says
kappa gamma on it.
[55:55] I'm pretty sure it's Kappa
Gamma or Gamma Kappa.
[55:58] Kappa Gamma, I'm pretty sure.
[55:59] And there's another
recipe that's specifically
[56:02] lists a sorority.
[56:04] That's again, a pastry.
[56:06] And so I think Ella
Hall may have been
[56:09] making some of the pastries.
[56:10] So they may have been
bringing in people
[56:13] from these boarding houses
to help with the meal
[56:16] preparations stands
for the banquets
[56:19] or possibly for every day.
[56:20] I'm kind of thinking that
devil's food cake was
[56:22] something special on a menu.
[56:25] So I really don't know.
[56:27] The University doesn't have
a dining catering staff
[56:30] like they do now.
[56:31] So who's cooking for those
women, those 350 women?
[56:36] And I just, actually,
I wish I knew.
[56:38] But there are a lot of
restaurants in town,
[56:40] so I wonder if people
were brought in that way.
[56:43] But I'm thinking
about the food system,
[56:45] and we're thinking about
where the food comes from
[56:48] and how it gets to
people's plates,
[56:50] that middle is really,
really missing.
[56:53] So yeah.
[56:55] If anybody's got any ideas
of how to look into that,
[56:58] I would love to know.
[56:59] Because in archeology,
we always have things
[57:03] that we can't figure out.
[57:04] So I'm OK with that.
[57:05] But I leave it as
a question that's
[57:07] open and hoping that something
shows up, somebody's diary,
[57:10] or I don't know what
that would show up.
[57:13] So yeah, thanks.
[57:15] ANDREW RUTLEDGE:
Sort of thinking
[57:17] about the other end of
the meal, particularly
[57:19] in the context of all these sort
of pledges not to waste food,
[57:22] do you have a sense of did
they take leftovers home?
[57:26] Did whoever was preparing
them take them home?
[57:28] Again, that might
not be something
[57:30] available in the scrapbooks.
[57:31] LISA YOUNG: It's not available.
[57:33] What I do see, there
is one menu that I
[57:37] saw that doesn't have
cake and ice cream.
[57:41] It only has one of the things on
it, and it's during World War I.
[57:45] So I think there was some
restrictions at that time.
[57:50] If they're following
Mrs. Rorer, they're
[57:54] using all the leftovers
in other meals.
[57:57] So that was one of her things
that she was promoting.
[58:01] The other thing that actually,
that the students that
[58:04] are in my class
now just found, I
[58:07] asked them to do a search on the
Michigan Daily for this decade.
[58:12] And one of them found an
article about one of the places
[58:17] in town that was
offering a Thanksgiving
[58:20] menu that had eight courses.
[58:22] And they were railing them
for that was wasteful.
[58:26] They shouldn't be offering
eight-course Thanksgiving dinner
[58:30] during the war.
[58:31] And you can see that
the sacrifices were--
[58:36] what they were asking
them to give up
[58:38] was just like one day a week
or one meal during the day.
[58:42] So there was still
plentiful food to be eaten.
[58:46] It was just thinking
about eat beans
[58:49] instead of always
having meat for dinner
[58:51] and that sort of thing.
[58:52] So yeah.
[58:53] Yeah.
[58:54] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: Interesting.
[58:55] I have one more question, then
I'll open it up to the audience.
[58:57] I'm just particularly struck.
[58:59] You said there was the big
25th anniversary dinner
[59:02] at the Women's League.
[59:04] And 350 students
and alums attend.
[59:08] But you said at the time,
there were about 2,000 women
[59:10] on campus.
[59:12] I'm kind of curious.
[59:14] Do you have a
sense of, was there
[59:15] a class element of who
ended up at these banquets?
[59:19] LISA YOUNG: I think
everybody's invited,
[59:21] and they can choose to come.
[59:24] I don't think they have
to pay for this one
[59:27] because they are
paying like $1 in dues.
[59:30] So I think it's just a choice
whether you want to come or not.
[59:33] But my sense is
that they are open.
[59:37] But I don't actually have the
documents to back that up,
[59:41] except that in some of
the women's scrapbooks,
[59:45] they'll have the information
saying that they're going.
[59:50] And that's an
interesting question.
[59:51] I don't know if in
any of the scrapbooks,
[59:54] I've seen a ticket to say that
you're going to the luncheon.
[59:58] ANDREW RUTLEDGE:
Invitation even?
[60:00] LISA YOUNG: Yeah.
[60:01] The invitations that I've
seen are just in the Daily.
[60:04] It's like we're
having this luncheon.
[60:07] But that is something if I
go back, Gertrude has a lot,
[60:13] and we're looking
at her scrapbook,
[60:16] so we could take a
closer look at hers.
[60:18] Lots of programs from the
Michigan women's luncheon.
[60:24] So yeah.
[60:25] ANDREW RUTLEDGE:
I actually lied.
[60:27] I have one more question.
[60:29] So the scrapbooks are
such a focus of your talk.
[60:31] It's such a wonderful resource
for learning about banquets.
[60:35] But have you seen
anything else that really
[60:36] has piqued your interest?
[60:37] Like I'd love to look into
this if I had more time.
[60:41] LISA YOUNG: I mean, what's
really piqued my interest is
[60:43] just thinking about
the Michigan League
[60:46] and how important it was
to creating the connections
[60:51] with the women that were here
at a time when less than 25%
[60:57] of the student body
was women and maybe
[61:00] even far less than that.
[61:03] I mean, there's football
programs in there.
[61:05] If I was into thinking about
the history of theater,
[61:08] there are so many theater
programs in there too.
[61:13] The other thing that's
interesting about the banquets
[61:16] and I decided to
avoid is that there
[61:19] are pictures of Michigamua
with the hazing that
[61:25] goes on with those programs.
[61:28] And this is only a
small part of the class,
[61:31] so we didn't have enough time to
unpack that problematic history
[61:36] of the University of
Michigan, but there's
[61:39] an interesting record of that.
[61:42] The other thing
related to the banquets
[61:44] that I've seen that I
don't have the students
[61:47] research because
they're hard is there
[61:50] was a lot of playing around
with words on the menus.
[61:53] So one of the Michigamua
menus, somebody
[61:57] got a hold of an
Ojibwe dictionary.
[61:59] And all the things
are listed in Ojibwe
[62:03] on that program based
on that dictionary.
[62:08] And there were published
dictionaries at the time.
[62:10] So this is an
Indigenous language.
[62:12] There's one from an
organization that's
[62:15] affiliated with one of
the musical societies,
[62:19] organizations, and
all the courses,
[62:23] the things on the courses
do this funny play
[62:26] of words with
musical instruments
[62:29] or movements or
things like that.
[62:31] And there's one that's
related to law, to mostly
[62:35] of the men's organizations.
[62:36] But that thinking about how
you play with the words of food
[62:41] on a menu I've been
very intrigued with.
[62:44] But I need a linguist to
help me with some of that.
[62:48] So yeah.
[62:51] I just love to touch
them and think,
[62:53] these are the memories that
these students saved over
[62:56] 100 years ago.
[62:58] So for me, it's also, I really,
really-- the chefs from dining,
[63:04] I used to give them recipes.
[63:07] This was before COVID.
[63:08] And they would make
some of the dishes.
[63:10] And I really loved doing that.
[63:13] But we never ate
very much, and I just
[63:15] felt like there was
a lot of wasted food
[63:17] after that, although
a couple of years,
[63:19] we offered it to anybody
in the dining halls.
[63:21] And then COVID hit, and
they were so short staffed,
[63:24] and this project evolved
into different things.
[63:28] But I do have to say, I
always bring a historic cake
[63:31] in for the students to
eat because after they've
[63:34] given their presentations,
because it's desserts
[63:39] that we need to celebrate.
[63:40] So I often make them Lazy Daisy
cake, which is a lovely cake.
[63:45] All right.
[63:45] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: OK, we'll now
open it up to our audience.
[63:48] Please raise your hand
if you have a question,
[63:50] and we'll call on you.
[63:51] But please just wait for
one of our wonderful docents
[63:53] to bring you a microphone
if you're here.
[63:55] So that way, our online
audience can hear you.
[64:02] Please wait for the
microphone, sir.
[64:08] AUDIENCE: If I
remember correctly
[64:09] from Mrs. Rorer's
everyday menu, you
[64:12] said that on a
couple of Tuesdays,
[64:14] they served ice cream that
was left over from Sunday.
[64:16] LISA YOUNG: Yeah.
[64:17] One Monday.
[64:18] AUDIENCE: Therefore, Mrs.
Rorer from Philadelphia
[64:20] must have had freezers.
[64:21] LISA YOUNG: No.
[64:21] You can store the ice cream if
you keep it on ice, you can.
[64:27] And I was checking
this out before I came.
[64:29] There's a couple places.
[64:30] There's suggestions for shops
that are making ice cream,
[64:36] that you can make
it the day before,
[64:39] but you need to keep it
packed in ice and with salt.
[64:45] So you're right.
[64:46] It's that type of freezer.
[64:48] I should have said a
mechanical freezer.
[64:50] AUDIENCE: In Ann Arbor also.
[64:52] LISA YOUNG: Absolutely.
[64:53] As long as the ice supplies--
[64:55] I think they were doing
it here in Ann Arbor.
[64:58] It's all that putting
the pieces together.
[65:01] And what I also didn't
have a chance to check
[65:04] is that there's a
company that is also
[65:12] able to make mechanical
ice here in town.
[65:15] I remember seeing the ads
in the Michigan Daily.
[65:17] And there's some
history about it.
[65:19] What I can't remember is if
it's from the 19 teens or if it
[65:23] starts in the '20s.
[65:24] So there's a lot of things
that start changing.
[65:28] And that's part of
the other reason
[65:29] I chose this decade,
one, because there's
[65:32] lots of scrapbooks.
[65:33] There are lots of banquets.
[65:35] There's so many interesting
things happening
[65:37] in the world with
World War I. And then
[65:40] I was teaching this class
right after the COVID pandemic.
[65:44] There was a 1918
flu pandemic too.
[65:47] So yeah, very meaningful
for the students
[65:52] to see that information.
[65:54] I forgot to check
one of the students,
[65:57] they had the scrapbook today
that have the instructions
[66:00] of how to put on a mask, And.
[66:01] I don't know if they saw that.
[66:05] So that's interesting,
but it's also
[66:07] really interesting
in terms of what's
[66:09] happening with our food system.
[66:11] Because we've got things
being imported on trains.
[66:14] We're just starting to see a
little more, like electricity
[66:19] and gas are coming in.
[66:21] So they're right at the
beginning of doing more
[66:26] appliances in the kitchens.
[66:30] The students this year
found some advertisements
[66:33] in the Michigan Daily
for electric plates
[66:36] to heat things up on, which
was like this new invention
[66:40] at the time.
[66:41] But still, I think a lot of
the things that are on the menu
[66:47] are probably still coming from
what we could consider today,
[66:50] fairly local areas and
not being shipped in,
[66:54] especially anything
that has to be kept cold
[66:56] because the only way you can
keep it cold is with ice.
[66:59] So they haven't gotten to
the mechanical refrigeration
[67:03] and the mechanical freezers yet.
[67:06] So electric
refrigerators are coming
[67:10] in the '20s, but they're
hugely expensive.
[67:13] So go to the opening of
the exhibit next Monday,
[67:17] and you can learn
with me on that.
[67:20] So thank you for
asking that question.
[67:22] So the ice cream,
when they made it,
[67:24] probably could last
for a day or two,
[67:26] but it wasn't
something that could
[67:30] sit in your freezer for
a long period of time,
[67:33] your freezer at home.
[67:39] AUDIENCE: I know that a lot
of the period of time that you
[67:42] kind of covered or that the
students were at Michigan, when
[67:45] you were looking at the
scrapbooks, a lot of them
[67:48] included the beginning of
prohibition and the time right
[67:51] before it.
[67:52] I was wondering if you
saw kind of a change
[67:54] in menus, if menus
before prohibition
[67:58] served alcohol and
then stopped doing it
[68:00] and if there was some
kind of student reaction
[68:01] or that was like uncouth,
and students never did.
[68:05] LISA YOUNG: I've never seen
any alcohol on the menus, just
[68:08] the cigars and cigarettes.
[68:10] And actually,
Andrew, you probably
[68:12] know better than I do because
I think James Tobin talked
[68:15] about this at his talk, that
the university was basically
[68:18] saying there couldn't be
any alcohol on campus.
[68:21] So I think being part of
these student organizations,
[68:26] they couldn't be serving alcohol
at their official banquets.
[68:29] And I know it's
also a discussion.
[68:31] The other thing that's
happening at this time
[68:33] is the unions being
built. And there's
[68:36] a lot of discussion
about how this is not
[68:38] going to be a place where
we serve alcohol on campus.
[68:42] So people had to go
head towards Main Street
[68:45] to get their alcohol.
[68:47] And there's lots of
conversation in the Daily about
[68:50] what's happening with
fraternities and things
[68:52] like that.
[68:52] I was like, some things
don't change very much.
[68:56] But anyways, there doesn't seem
to be any alcohol on the student
[69:04] organization menu.
[69:05] Thank you for asking that.
[69:08] AUDIENCE: Division
Street [INAUDIBLE]
[69:11] LISA YOUNG: Named,
yeah, Division Street.
[69:13] So you can have alcohol
west of division
[69:16] but not east of division.
[69:18] AUDIENCE: And also the
VFW in the South Division.
[69:22] LISA YOUNG: It
did serve alcohol.
[69:23] AUDIENCE: That was
after World War II.
[69:25] LISA YOUNG: Yeah.
[69:26] And things start to change
a lot after World War II.
[69:29] Yeah.
[69:31] It's another one up front here.
[69:32] Thanks.
[69:36] AUDIENCE: You mentioned a
gymnasium with a B initial.
[69:40] LISA YOUNG: Barber.
[69:41] AUDIENCE: Where was that?
[69:43] LISA YOUNG: I think it's
right next to Waterman,
[69:45] which is where the now, the
chemistry buildings are.
[69:48] They were right where the
chemistry building is now.
[69:51] It was in that space
right on the corner.
[69:53] And Waterman was
the men's gym and--
[69:56] AUDIENCE: Northview and church?
[69:58] LISA YOUNG: Yeah.
[69:58] Or where Geddes
comes onto campus
[70:01] or across from the Ruthven
Building, where the Natural
[70:04] History Museum used to be.
[70:05] AUDIENCE: Also, I've been
interested in the development
[70:09] of how the Michigan League was
built by the women's league.
[70:16] And what I've heard.
[70:19] I don't know if any
of this is accurate.
[70:21] What I've heard
is that women were
[70:24] in such a strongly
oppressed minority
[70:27] that their professors would
not call on them generally.
[70:31] They were treated as
they didn't exist here.
[70:36] In order to go to
the Michigan union,
[70:39] they had to be
escorted by a man.
[70:42] So they went to that gym.
[70:47] What was it called?
[70:47] LISA YOUNG: Barber.
[70:48] AUDIENCE: Barber.
[70:49] They went to the Barber Gym.
[70:51] And the hours of
the gym coincided
[70:54] with their best classes, so
there was some conflict there.
[71:01] But the fact that
they got the gym
[71:04] and they could form
the Women's League
[71:06] led to them having
community and coming up
[71:11] with the idea of bake sales
and buying cloth and hemming
[71:17] it to make handkerchiefs
and sewing things,
[71:20] and ultimately raising the
money to build the Women's
[71:23] League, which ultimately was
ready to open in '29 when
[71:31] the depression hit, and they
couldn't afford to keep it up.
[71:34] So they gave it
to the University.
[71:36] LISA YOUNG: Yeah.
[71:36] So I think there's a bunch
of things going on there.
[71:39] That not calling on
women, I can definitely
[71:41] see that happening early
on, when women are admitted.
[71:45] My sense is by the teens, that
women have a pretty strong voice
[71:52] on campus.
[71:53] And the other thing
you need to realize
[71:55] is that there's a lot of
organizing for suffrage,
[71:59] and suffrage is past
here in Michigan
[72:02] before it's passed
nationally in 1920.
[72:05] And including some of the
women leadership on campus,
[72:13] Like is it Eliza Mosher was
involved in the suffrage
[72:17] movement.
[72:18] That's who Mosher Jordan
Dorm is named after
[72:22] and was dean of students.
[72:23] This is, I'm pulling out my--
[72:25] dean of women, female students.
[72:28] Yeah.
[72:32] And that the league
is formed in 1890,
[72:36] and they actually fight to
have Barber Gymnasium created
[72:41] as a space for women.
[72:42] And that becomes a space where
also has place for the league
[72:47] events to meet.
[72:50] And then they start really
going to fundraise for building
[72:57] the Michigan League.
[72:59] And this map that I showed
with all the fraternities
[73:03] and sororities on it.
[73:05] Go, go, go, go, go.
[73:06] My understanding, and
you can go to the talk
[73:09] to learn more about it, is that
this map was created and then
[73:12] sold to do some fundraising to
raise the funds for the Michigan
[73:17] League.
[73:18] So there are lots of women
doing very creative things
[73:21] to get money to create
their own space on campus.
[73:25] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: Let's turn
to our online audience,
[73:27] see if there are
any questions there.
[73:28] STAFF: There is an
online question actually.
[73:32] What are some observations that
have impressed or surprised
[73:35] your students?
[73:41] LISA YOUNG: What are
some observations?
[73:43] So one of the things the
scrapbooks often include,
[73:47] like they were selling pictures
of buildings on campus.
[73:52] And some of the scrapbooks
have so many of them.
[73:57] And I said to the
students, why do you
[74:01] think they would have picked--
[74:03] to kept those in
their scrapbooks?
[74:05] And they were like,
well, they wanted
[74:06] to remember what the
campus looked like.
[74:08] I was like, yeah, they
could have done that,
[74:10] and they may not have
had their own camera.
[74:12] But why some of the buildings?
[74:15] And many of the
students, almost all
[74:19] the students whose
scrapbooks we've looked at
[74:21] are actually Michigan students.
[74:23] And some of them are coming
from pretty rural areas.
[74:27] Ludington, Tecumseh,
other places.
[74:31] And so when they come
onto this campus,
[74:33] those are the biggest buildings
they've ever seen in their life.
[74:37] And so saying, here I am on
this campus, that that I think
[74:43] is an important thing.
[74:45] The other social
things, like there's
[74:47] dance cards and calling
cards in these scrapbooks.
[74:51] And so it's a really
fun way to help
[74:54] students think about how do you
create your social network when
[74:59] you don't have a cell
phone, and there aren't even
[75:01] any telephones.
[75:02] So how do you do
those sorts of things?
[75:08] Yeah.
[75:08] Just the things
they were saving.
[75:10] And then football is
important at Michigan
[75:13] for a very long period of time.
[75:15] So it's nice because
the big house hasn't
[75:18] been built during
this time period,
[75:20] but you can still see the
excitement about the Michigan
[75:24] football.
[75:25] And that, again, is one
of those things that
[75:27] creates those connections
between then and now.
[75:32] And I always, when we're
walking around places,
[75:37] I'd be like, there's
the president's house.
[75:39] Remember, this has been
there since the 1840s.
[75:43] So be thinking about that.
[75:45] And so the other thing I think
they're just surprised at
[75:49] is that Michigan has
spent a lot of time
[75:53] collecting its history too.
[75:56] And then like I
said, I was surprised
[75:59] by thinking about the
student activism around food
[76:03] that you can see
with World War I
[76:06] and then how it relates to
students actually driving
[76:13] the University of
Michigan to be its better
[76:15] self in many ways, especially
around issues related
[76:19] to food now and sustainability,
and the University
[76:22] is doing great things.
[76:23] But that nudge to
get going was really
[76:26] driven a lot by the students.
[76:27] So thank you for that question.
[76:30] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: I think we
have time for one more question.
[76:39] AUDIENCE: This is maybe
a bit off the wall,
[76:41] but do you have any sense in
these early boarding houses,
[76:47] when baking of things like
cakes switched from coal
[76:53] to some other power source?
[76:55] LISA YOUNG: I don't
have any idea,
[76:58] but gas is rapidly
replacing coal, especially
[77:02] in cities at this time.
[77:04] And one of the things when I
originally started the project I
[77:07] was wondering about
electricity here in Ann Arbor.
[77:11] And the old pictures that
I find of State Street.
[77:17] There's the wires
for the trolley that
[77:19] used to run down State Street.
[77:22] But gas is replacing coal,
especially in cities.
[77:27] Not in the rural
areas but especially
[77:29] in cities at this time.
[77:32] But you've still got ice
boxes and everything else.
[77:36] This is my husband.
[77:37] So I can look it up when
we get home for you.
[77:40] AUDIENCE: I mean, you know where
that question is coming from.
[77:43] One, I was a kid
living in Pennsylvania,
[77:46] and I'll date myself, this would
have been in the early 50s.
[77:51] My mother ran a hotel
during the summer,
[77:54] and all her oven was
entirely fired by coal.
[77:58] And baking was a very
different proposition.
[78:02] LISA YOUNG: Because you don't
have that steady temperature.
[78:05] And it's interesting
because Mrs. Rorer published
[78:08] in 1905, and actually, even
in her earlier publications,
[78:12] she's really recommending that
women switch to gas stoves
[78:17] because it's going
to save them time
[78:19] and they're going to get
a better product out to.
[78:22] And she's really about you need
to do all these amazing things
[78:26] at home, do those amazing
menus, and you can do it
[78:30] if you're very efficient
about the way you work
[78:34] and planning and
things like that.
[78:36] So she's a big proponent of gas.
[78:39] So in places like Philadelphia
and even cities in Ann Arbor,
[78:47] that transition to
gas is happening.
[78:49] But I think like places
out in the rural towns,
[78:55] it wasn't happening as fast.
[78:56] And I think I was reading,
somebody can correct me,
[78:59] that sort of reliable
electricity really didn't get
[79:02] out into the Dexter town
until the 1920s and '30s.
[79:07] So again, why this time
period is so fascinating
[79:11] because there's such
an interesting change.
[79:13] So I got one trivia question
for you all since we
[79:16] were talking about amenities.
[79:18] Does anybody know where
the first indoor plumbing
[79:22] was in Ann Arbor?
[79:24] Where was it?
[79:26] The president's house.
[79:27] Because Sarah Angell said
I'm not moving to Ann Arbor
[79:33] unless we have indoor plumbing
because I got it in Vermont.
[79:37] So 1871.
[79:39] The first indoor
plumbing in this town
[79:43] was in the president's house.
[79:46] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: On
that note, that's
[79:48] a good way to end the banquet.
[79:49] Thank you all.
[79:50] LISA YOUNG: Thank you.
[79:51] Thank you for coming.
[79:54] And there's cake outside.
[79:56] ANDREW RUTLEDGE: Thank you all
for joining us this evening.
[79:59] Thanks as well to Greg Parker,
the director of the Detroit
[80:01] Observatory, for
monitoring our live stream.
[80:04] Thanks as well to the
Michigan visuals team
[80:06] for recording our
session this evening.
[80:09] Tonight's session will be
available online in about a week
[80:12] and will be shared with
everybody who registered,
[80:14] both in person and virtually.
[80:16] Keep an eye out for an email.
[80:18] And then it will be
there permanently.
[80:20] Our next Making Michigan
will be on October 15th,
[80:23] when historian Jack Dempsey will
be joining us for a conversation
[80:26] about Michigan's pivotal role in
the American Civil War and its
[80:29] various lasting
legacies in the state.
[80:31] And that session will
actually coincide with
[80:34] the observatory's new exhibit
that's opening next week,
[80:38] "Fill the ranks, the Civil War
and the University of Michigan,"
[80:41] which will focus on how the
campus and community of Ann
[80:44] Arbor debated the issues
that tore the country apart
[80:47] in the 1850s and 1860s, how
students and alums served
[80:51] in the conflict, and how U of
M emerged from the Civil War
[80:54] as the largest university
in the country.
[80:56] Now, for those of you
in the observatory
[80:58] tonight, we do indeed have
cake but sadly no ice cream
[81:00] despite modern technology.
[81:03] And the original observatory
will be open upstairs
[81:06] for about half an hour if
anybody's interested in a tour.
[81:09] Our amazing docent team could
show you around and tell you
[81:12] all sorts of fascinating
things about these telescopes
[81:14] and other things.
[81:15] If you can't stick
around tonight,
[81:17] I highly encourage
you to come back.
[81:20] We are open Thursday
afternoons, Friday afternoons,
[81:23] and select Saturdays.
[81:25] Other than that, have
a wonderful night.
[81:27] Please get home safe.
[81:28] Thank you so much.
[81:29] [APPLAUSE]