Collagen Peptides vs. Gelatin: Which Is Better for Skin?

Dr Dray

AI-assisted summary of Collagen Peptides vs. Gelatin: Which Is Better for Skin? — original source. Check the original for full context.

Source published: 2026-10-04

Key ideas

Hydrolyzed collagen peptides provide intact signaling fragments that can cross the gut barrier to stimulate dermal fibroblast activity, whereas dietary gelatin breaks down into basic amino acids that cannot trigger targeted collagen synthesis. (0:13)
Topical protease enzymes offer enzymatic exfoliation at skin-compatible pH levels to reduce irritation, but their sustained penetration and risk of barrier degradation make them unsafe for eczema-prone skin. (3:30)
"Acne-safe" is an unscientific marketing buzzword rather than a regulated medical standard; scar camouflage is better approached via DHA self-tanners, makeup, or medical tattooing on fully remodeled scars. (6:51)
The physiological scent associated with aging is driven by the lipid oxidation product 2-nonenal starting around age 40, and premium persimmon or green tea soaps lack clinical proof of efficacy over standard cleansing. (10:00)

Detailed notes

## Background This skincare Q&A video was published by board-certified dermatologist Dr Dray on YouTube on October 4, 2026. According to the page description, Dr Dray addresses viewer questions covering the differences between collagen peptides and dietary gelatin, the mechanics and safety of topical protease exfoliants, camouflage techniques for scars and discoloration, the reformulated CeraVe Healing Ointment, and whether expensive specialty soaps can treat age-related body odor.

## TL;DR Dr. Dray clarifies that while collagen peptides and gelatin share the same amino acid profile, hydrolyzed peptides can be absorbed intact to stimulate fibroblast receptors, whereas gelatin is fully dismantled during digestion. She evaluates protease enzymes as gentle, neutral-pH exfoliants that break down stratum corneum keratin, while warning that their continuous activity makes them hazardous for compromised skin barriers like eczema. After dismissing binary 'acne-safe' marketing labels and outlining camouflage options such as sunless tanners and medical micropigmentation, she reviews the formula tweaks in CeraVe Healing Ointment. Finally, she explains that 'old person smell' stems physiologically from the lipid oxidation byproduct 2-nonenal rather than poor hygiene, noting that pricey persimmon or green tea soaps lack clinical evidence to support their anti-odor claims.

## Atmosphere & style The presentation is candid, analytical, and distinctly no-nonsense, characterized by Dr. Dray's trademark dry realism and straightforward delivery. Rather than indulging in wellness trends or cosmetic marketing hype, she anchors every answer in fundamental biochemistry, relying on relatable analogies like locks, keys, and scrap brass to demystify complex digestive and dermatological pathways. The resulting experience feels like an approachable yet unvarnished clinical consultation that leaves viewers grounded in scientific reality rather than consumer anxiety.

## Bulletin - [00:13](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=13s) Hydrolyzed collagen peptides provide intact signaling fragments that can cross the gut barrier to stimulate dermal fibroblast activity, whereas dietary gelatin breaks down into basic amino acids that cannot trigger targeted collagen synthesis. - [03:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=210s) Topical protease enzymes offer enzymatic exfoliation at skin-compatible pH levels to reduce irritation, but their sustained penetration and risk of barrier degradation make them unsafe for eczema-prone skin. - [06:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=411s) "Acne-safe" is an unscientific marketing buzzword rather than a regulated medical standard; scar camouflage is better approached via DHA self-tanners, makeup, or medical tattooing on fully remodeled scars. - [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) The physiological scent associated with aging is driven by the lipid oxidation product 2-nonenal starting around age 40, and premium persimmon or green tea soaps lack clinical proof of efficacy over standard cleansing.

## Key takeaways - [00:13](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=13s) Collagen peptides and dietary gelatin share the same amino acid profile, but peptides are pre-hydrolyzed into short chains capable of crossing the gut wall intact. - [00:13](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=13s) Intact collagen peptides act as signaling molecules fitting dermal fibroblast receptors, stimulating new collagen production in a lock-and-key mechanism that digested gelatin cannot replicate. - [03:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=210s) Proteases like papain, bromelain, and microbial enzymes exfoliate the stratum corneum by cleaving keratin proteins rather than dissolving cell bonds through acidity. - [03:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=210s) Because proteases function closer to the skin's physiological pH, they avoid the sensory stinging and burning associated with low-pH alpha hydroxy acids. - [03:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=210s) Unlike chemical acids that lose strength as they penetrate, proteases maintain enzymatic activity inward, presenting a risk of deeper irritation if overused. - [03:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=210s) Applying proteolytic enzymes to eczema or an impaired skin barrier can exacerbate barrier degradation, itching, and burning. - [06:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=411s) Categorizing skincare products as strictly 'acne-safe' or 'acne-unsafe' lacks scientific validity, as comedogenicity is determined by overall formulation and individual biology. - [06:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=411s) Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) self-tanners offer a semi-permanent camouflage option for hypopigmentation and scars by forming melanoidin pigments that last for several days. - [06:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=411s) Medical tattooing can blend white scars and hypopigmentation, but must only be performed on fully mature scars that have finished tissue remodeling. - [08:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=521s) CeraVe Healing Ointment raised its active petrolatum concentration from 46.5% to 49.5% alongside preservative updates, though manufacturers have published no head-to-head clinical efficacy data comparing the two versions. - [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) The characteristic odor associated with aging is caused by 2-nonenal, an unsaturated aldehyde produced by the natural oxidation of altered skin surface lipids starting around age 40. - [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) 2-nonenal production is an unavoidable biological process unrelated to poor personal hygiene, meaning frequent washing cannot permanently halt its generation. - [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) High-priced persimmon tannin and green tea soaps marketed to eliminate nonenal odor lack independent clinical evidence demonstrating superior results over gentle, conventional cleansing.

## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=0s) Collagen Peptides vs. Gelatin: Which Is Better for Skin?

Picking up from a previous skincare Q&A session, Dr. Dray addresses a viewer who asked whether her older video comparing the absorption of collagen peptides versus dietary gelatin is now outdated. Dr. Dray confirms that the findings remain completely up to date. While popular online narratives frequently claim that buying collagen peptide supplements is a waste of money because someone could simply go to the grocery store, buy a box of Jell-O, make some "jigglers," and eat them every day to get the exact same skin benefits, the actual biological reality is far more nuanced.

Dr. Dray makes her baseline stance on supplementation clear right away: "Listen, when it comes to supplements, I don't mess around. I don't recommend supplements. Talk to your doctor about supplements if they are indicated." However, from an objective scientific perspective, there is promising research showing that collagen peptides can improve skin moisture retention and boost collagen production. Nutritionally speaking, gelatin and collagen peptides are practically identical—they share the same profile of amino acids, and Jell-O provides little more than a tiny bit of protein. The critical divergence lies in their molecular size, digestion, and systemic absorption.

Collagen peptides are hydrolyzed collagen, meaning the protein has already been broken down into small, short-chain fragments. Gelatin, by contrast, consists of much larger protein chains that your gastrointestinal tract must laboriously digest and dismantle. Because collagen peptides are already so small, evidence suggests they can be absorbed across the gut wall intact rather than being degraded by digestive enzymes. Once in the bloodstream, these intact peptide fragments travel directly to the skin, where they act as signaling molecules that stimulate dermal fibroblasts to produce new collagen. Gelatin cannot deliver that rapid, concentrated spike of intact signaling fragments.

To illustrate this, Dr. Dray uses an analogy of a lock and key. Dermal fibroblasts have specific receptor sites—the "keyholes." When the key enters and turns, it unlocks collagen synthesis. Collagen peptides are small enough to serve as the intact key that travels through circulation directly into the keyhole. With gelatin, the digestive system dismantles the key into raw brass scraps before it ever reaches the bloodstream. Even though both substances are made of the exact same raw brass materials, the melted-down fragments from gelatin can no longer slide into the lock to trigger the response.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Absorption Pathway of Collagen Peptides vs Gelatin accDescr: Flowchart contrasting how hydrolyzed collagen peptides reach fibroblasts intact versus how gelatin is broken down into simple amino acids.

subgraph Peptides["Collagen Peptides (Hydrolyzed)"] A["Hydrolyzed Collagen Peptides"] --> B["Absorbed Intact in the Gut"] B --> C["Enter Blood Circulation"] C --> D["Fit Fibroblast Receptor ('Lock and Key')"] D --> E["Stimulates New Collagen Production"] end

subgraph Gelatin["Dietary Gelatin (Jell-O)"] F["Large Collagen Chains"] --> G["Digested by Gut Enzymes"] G --> H["Broken into Basic Amino Acids ('Raw Brass')"] H --> I["No Intact Signaling Key to Fit Receptors"] end ```

[03:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=210s) Protease in Skincare: Enzymatic Exfoliation and Clinical Uses

When asked whether the skincare ingredient protease is a type of exfoliant, Dr. Dray explains that proteases are proteolytic enzymes whose scientific and clinical applications are divided between cosmetic skincare and medical wound care. In topical skincare, plant-derived proteases such as papain (from papaya) and bromelain (from pineapple), as well as specialized microbial proteases, act as gentle biological catalysts for exfoliation. They function by targeting and hydrolyzing keratin proteins within the stratum corneum—the outermost layer of dead skin cells—leading to smoother skin texture, improved radiance, and refined overall tone.

Topical proteases offer a distinct theoretical advantage over traditional chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid). AHAs require a low, acidic pH to work effectively, which frequently causes stinging, burning, and irritation. Proteases, however, operate optimally at a higher pH that sits much closer to the skin's physiological baseline. Because of this, clinical studies demonstrate that proteases can promote effective cellular turnover and even reduce visible redness without the aggressive sensory irritation common to chemical acids, making them an attractive alternative for sensitive skin types.

Beyond cosmetics, proteases have a long, well-researched history in clinical medicine for enzymatic wound debridement. Formulations such as topical collagenase are applied directly to chronic or severe wounds to liquefy and slough off non-viable, necrotic tissue. This accelerates wound healing while sparing patients the physical trauma and pain of surgical scrapings.

Despite these advantages, Dr. Dray emphasizes significant formulation challenges and safety caveats:

- **Extreme Instability:** Proteases are delicate, fickle proteins that only function within a narrow pH and temperature window. If a cosmetic product is not expertly engineered, the enzymes will denature and become completely useless. - **Unrelenting Penetration:** Unlike AHAs, which naturally lose their exfoliating potency as they penetrate deeper into the skin's layers, proteases maintain their enzymatic activity as they travel inward. If left on too long or formulated at excessively high concentrations, they can cause unexpected deeper irritation. - **Barrier Breakdown Hazard:** Protease exfoliants should never be applied to eczematous skin or during an active eczema flare-up. Adding proteolytic enzymes to an already impaired skin barrier accelerates barrier degradation and significantly intensifies burning, itching, and stinging.

[06:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=411s) Debunking "Acne-Safe" and Cosmetic Camouflage Options for Scars

Addressing a viewer's inquiry regarding safe cosmetic camouflage for scars and discoloration, Dr. Dray first dismantles the popular marketing buzzword "acne-safe." She firmly states that "acne-safe" versus "acne-unsafe" is not a clinically validated or scientifically legitimate concept: "Stop thinking about things as acne safe or unsafe." Whether a product exacerbates an individual's acne depends entirely on the comprehensive formulation, the patient's underlying skin biology, concurrent skincare routines, and broader personal triggers—not a blanket, binary marketing label.

When approaching the camouflage of scars, post-inflammatory hypopigmentation, or uneven discoloration, Dr. Dray details several practical approaches:

- **Sunless Tanners:** Self-tanners containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) provide a durable camouflage effect. DHA interacts chemically with amino acids on the surface of the skin to produce melanoidins, which impart a natural-looking brown tint. Dr. Dray compares this to "long-wear makeup" that stays put for days up to a week without washing off. - **High-Coverage Cosmetic Foundations:** Traditional pigmented makeup formulations offer immediate, adjustable daily coverage for focal areas of discoloration. - **Medical Tattooing (Micropigmentation):** For persistent hypopigmentation or white scars, medical tattooing can deposit matched pigment directly into the dermis. However, Dr. Dray cautions that this procedure requires a fully mature scar that has completely finished its internal remodeling phase. Tattooing an immature scar too early can lead to distorted or unnatural results as the tissue contracts and shifts. She notes this utilizes the exact same micropigmentation principle commonly used on the scalp to disguise thinning hair.

[08:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=521s) CeraVe Healing Ointment: Formula Changes and Reformulation Realities

Dr. Dray reviews the updated formulation of the classic CeraVe Healing Ointment. The primary structural shift is a slight increase in the active skin protectant, petrolatum, which rose from 46.5% in the original version to 49.5% in the new formulation. Alongside this increase, several functional and preservative ingredients were rotated out in favor of new additions:

| Status in Formula | Ingredients | |:--- |:--- | | **Added / Increased** | Petrolatum (increased to 49.5%), Glycerin, Microcrystalline Wax, Triethyl Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzoic Acid | | **Removed** | Ozokerite, Dimethicone, Proline, Phenoxyethanol, Pantolactone (Panthenol component), Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (swapped for Sodium Hyaluronate) |

Dr. Dray addresses the inevitable question of whether the product is genuinely "improved." While brands routinely slap "new and improved" onto packaging, she notes that manufacturers never publish head-to-head clinical trial data demonstrating whether a new formula delivers faster barrier repair or a greater reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to the old one. Ultimately, "improved" boils down to individual user perception and texture preferences: online reactions are predictably split between loyalists who claim the formula is ruined, previous detractors who now love it, and everyday users—including Dr. Dray herself—who used the product without noticing any perceptible difference until reading the fine print on the ingredient deck.

[10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) Soap for "Old Person Smell" and the Science of 2-Nonenal

Addressing a viewer's inquiry regarding viral, expensive soaps marketed for eliminating "old person smell," Dr. Dray identifies the biological culprit as a compound known as 2-nonenal, which produces the characteristic "nonenal odor." This natural chemical compound forms as human skin ages due to shifts in skin surface lipids and sebum composition. The production of 2-nonenal typically kicks off around age 40 and progressively intensifies over time. Dr. Dray emphasizes emphatically that this scent is entirely distinct from hygiene: "It's not a hygiene issue, okay? It has nothing to do with hygiene." A person could bathe repeatedly, and the body will continue to generate it regardless of whether one uses a $2 soap, a $20 soap, or a $40 specialty cleanser.

However, routine bathing does help lower the overall accumulation and perceived strength of the scent on the body and clothing. The practical issue is that many older individuals struggle with daily bathing because mature skin has difficulty retaining moisture, rapidly becoming uncomfortably dry, itchy, and irritated from frequent washing. When washing frequency drops, 2-nonenal accumulates on the surface of the skin, clothing, and bed linens. Scent descriptions vary widely from person to person; some describe it as "musty" or "grassy," while others find those adjectives inaccurate but still "know it when I smell it."

Marketing for high-end cleansers—particularly those formulated with persimmon tannins or green tea extract—claims that topical polyphenol antioxidants prevent the lipid oxidation that generates 2-nonenal. Dr. Dray clarifies that while the theory sounds neat on paper, it completely lacks clinical validation: "Right now, it's not evidence-based. It works well for selling $20 persimmon soap, but whether or not it makes a difference, we don't have any objective evidence." Similarly, while maintaining a healthy diet rich in dietary antioxidants from fruits and vegetables is beneficial for general health and might theoretically blunt oxidative processes, high-priced persimmon bars remain purely marketing-driven. Dr. Dray recalls reviewing one of these heavily advertised persimmon soaps about a year prior and invites viewers to watch that video for her hands-on experience, reiterating that hard data behind the product claims does not exist.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Mechanism of Nonenal Odor Formation and Cleansing Limitations accDescr: Diagram showing how aging skin lipids oxidize into 2-nonenal and the limitations of specialized soaps versus bathing.

subgraph AgingProcess["Biological Aging (Starts ~Age 40)"] A["Shift in Sebum & Skin Lipids"] --> B["Lipid Oxidation"] B --> C["Formation of 2-Nonenal ('Nonenal Odor')"] end

subgraph SoapClaims["Persimmon / Green Tea Cleansers ($20+)"] D["Topical Polyphenols"] -.->|"Unproven Clinical Efficacy"| B end

subgraph PracticalHygiene["Skin Care Realities"] C --> E["Accumulation on Skin & Linens"] F["Routine Bathing"] -->|"Temporarily Reduces Odor Load"| E F --> G["Risk: Dryness & Irritation in Fragile Aging Skin"] end ```

- **Underlying compound:** 2-nonenal (an unsaturated aldehyde formed by the oxidative degradation of skin lipids). - **Typical onset:** Begins around age 40 and intensifies with advancing age. - **Hygiene reality:** The odor is physiological rather than bacterial or dirt-driven; no specialty soap cures or stops its production permanently. - **Commercial claims:** Persimmon tannin and green tea extracts claim antioxidant neutralization, but lack objective, peer-reviewed clinical support.

[12:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=752s) Q&A Wrap-Up and Channel Information

Dr. Dray closes out the weekend Q&A session by thanking viewers for watching to the end and encouraging them to leave their skincare questions in the comments section for upcoming segments. She explains the production schedule for newcomers: Q&A videos air every weekend on Saturdays and Sundays at 11:00 a.m. Central Standard Time. She pulls all featured questions directly from the comment sections of past Q&A videos and notes that viewers do not need to comment immediately when a video premieres, as she checks the comments for roughly a full week after posting. She signs off with her customary community reminder to like, share, subscribe, and never skip sunscreen.

## Notable quotes > [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=0s) Listen, when it comes to supplements, I don't mess around. I don't recommend supplements. Talk to your doctor about supplements if they are indicated. — Dr. Dray

> [06:51](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=411s) Stop thinking about things as acne safe or unsafe. — Dr. Dray

> [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) It's not a hygiene issue, okay? It has nothing to do with hygiene. — Dr. Dray

> [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY&t=600s) Right now, it's not evidence-based. It works well for selling $20 persimmon soap, but whether or not it makes a difference, we don't have any objective evidence. — Dr. Dray

## Mentioned Dr. Dray, Jell-O, CeraVe Healing Ointment, CeraVe, 2-nonenal, Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), Papain, Bromelain, Collagenase

## Video description In this skincare Q&A, dermatologist Dr. Dray answers questions from her followers about collagen supplements, protease exfoliants, skin camouflage, CeraVe Healing Ointment, and skincare products marketed to address age-related body odor.

Are collagen peptides better than gelatin for skin health? Is protease a type of exfoliant, and how does enzymatic exfoliation work? Dr. Dray explains the differences between collagen peptides and gelatin, discusses the potential benefits and limitations of topical proteases, and shares safe ways to camouflage skin discoloration and scars.

She also reviews the updated CeraVe Healing Ointment formula, including changes to its petrolatum concentration and ingredients, and discusses whether expensive soaps marketed for "old person smell" are actually effective. This dermatologist skincare Q&A offers practical skincare advice, ingredient education, and evidence-informed insights into popular skincare products and claims.

TIMESTAMPS

0:00 Intro 0:13 Collagen Peptides vs. Gelatin: Which Is Better for Skin? 3:30 Protease in Skincare: Is It an Exfoliant? 6:51 Safe Skin Camouflage Tips for Scars and Discoloration 8:41 CeraVe Healing Ointment: What's New and Improved? 9:56 Soap for "Old Person Smell": Is It Worth $20? 12:32 Outro

Subscribe for more dermatologist skincare Q&As, skincare ingredient explanations, product reviews, anti-aging advice, and practical tips for healthy skin.

#Dermatologist #DrDray #SkincareQandA #SkincareTips #CollagenPeptides #Gelatin #Protease #EnzymaticExfoliation #SkinCamouflage #CeraVeHealingOintment #CeraVe #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincareIngredients #BodyOdor #PersimmonSoap

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Disclaimer: This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this Youtube channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this Youtube channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.

[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQRjOlA-gjY)

中文简报

胶原蛋白肽与明胶：哪种对皮肤更好？ Dr. Dray澄清道，虽然胶原蛋白肽与明胶具有相同的氨基酸组成，但水解肽可被完整吸收以刺激成纤维细胞受体，而明胶在消化过程中则会被完全分解。她评估了蛋白酶作为温和的中性pH去角质成分能分解角质层角蛋白，但同时警告其持续活性会对湿疹等受损皮肤屏障构成危险。在否定了绝对化的“致痘安全”营销标签，并梳理了美黑剂和医疗微色素沉积等遮瑕手段后，她点评了CeraVe修复膏的配方微调。最后，她解释了“老人味”在生理上源自脂质氧化副产物2-壬烯醛而非卫生欠佳，并指出高价柿子皂或绿茶皂缺乏支持其去味宣称的临床证据。水解胶原蛋白肽能提供穿过肠道屏障的完整信号片段，以刺激真皮成纤维细胞活性，而膳食明胶会降解为基础氨基酸，无法触发定向胶原蛋白合成。 (0:13) 外用蛋白酶在贴合皮肤的pH值下提供酶解去角质作用以减少刺激，但其持续渗透和破坏屏障的风险使其不适用于易患湿疹的皮肤。 (3:30) “致痘安全”是不具科学依据的营销噱头而非规范的医学标准；疤痕遮盖更适宜在完全重塑的疤痕上通过DHA仿晒美黑剂、化妆或医疗纹绣来实现。 (6:51) 与衰老相关的生理体味大约从40岁起由脂质氧化产物2-壬烯醛引起，昂贵的柿子皂或绿茶皂缺乏优于普通清洁功效的临床证据。 (10:00)

Reading summary

Dermatologist Dr. Dray examines common skincare queries, contrasting the receptor signaling of collagen peptides against dietary gelatin, analyzing enzymatic exfoliation and scar camouflage, and critiquing unsubstantiated marketing claims behind barrier creams and aging-related body odor. Collagen Peptides Versus Gelatin for Skin Fibroblasts (0:00) Although dietary gelatin and collagen peptides share identical amino acid profiles, Dr. Dray emphasizes that their molecular sizes, digestion, and systemic absorption diverge significantly. Collagen peptides are hydrolyzed into short-chain fragments that research indicates can pass intact across the gut barrier into systemic circulation. Using a lock-and-key analogy, Dr. Dray explains that intact peptides fit receptor sites on dermal fibroblasts to stimulate new collagen synthesis and improve skin hydration. In contrast, gelatin consists of large protein chains that gastrointestinal enzymes break down into individual amino acids before absorption. While gelatin supplies identical basic raw materials, it cannot deliver intact peptide chains into circulation to trigger fibroblast receptors. Despite promising research on peptides, Dr. Dray emphasizes her general baseline stance against recommending dietary supplements, advising patients to consult their physicians instead. Enzymatic Exfoliation Mechanics and Formulation Risks (3:30) Proteases, such as plant-derived papain and bromelain, act as proteolytic catalysts that hydrolyze keratin within the stratum corneum to refine skin texture and tone. Unlike chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which require an acidic pH that frequently provokes stinging and sensory irritation, proteases operate near the skin's physiological pH. This allows them to promote cellular turnover with less sensory irritation. Additionally, topical proteases like collagenase are used in clinical wound care for enzymatic debridement, liquefying necrotic tissue without surgical scrapings. However, Dr. Dray highlights significant formulation and application hazards. Proteases are structurally fragile proteins that denature outside strict pH and temperature ranges. Unlike AHAs, which naturally lose potency as they penetrate deeper, proteases remain enzymatically active as they travel inward, risking deeper irritation if overused. Dr. Dray also warns that proteases must never be applied to eczematous skin or active flares, where they accelerate barrier breakdown and worsen itching and stinging. Scar Camouflage Strategies and the "Acne-Safe" Myth (6:51) Dr. Dray dismisses marketing labels classifying cosmetics as "acne-safe" or "acne-unsafe," asserting that the distinction lacks scientific or clinical validity. Whether a product provokes breakouts depends on comprehensive formulation, individual skin biology, routines, and personal triggers rather than a binary marketing label. For disguising scars and post-inflammatory hypopigmentation, Dr. Dray outlines three options: traditional high-coverage foundations, self-tanners containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA)—which bind with surface amino acids to create melanoidin pigments lasting up to a week—and medical tattooing (micropigmentation). For micropigmentation, she cautions that scars must be fully mature and finished with internal remodeling, as tattooing an immature scar risks visible distortion as tissue contracts. Barrier Ointment Reformulation and Clinical Ambiguity (8:41) Evaluating an updated formulation of CeraVe Healing Ointment, Dr. Dray notes a modest increase in the active skin protectant, petrolatum, from 46.5% to 49.5%, alongside ingredient adjustments such as adding microcrystalline wax, glycerin, and sodium hyaluronate while removing ozokerite, dimethicone, and proline. Despite commercial packaging claims of being "improved," Dr. Dray points out that manufacturers do not publish comparative clinical trial data measuring barrier restoration or reductions in transepidermal water loss. Consequently, product reformulations primarily reflect subjective consumer preferences regarding texture and sensory experience, with user responses predictably split. Aging Lipids, 2-Nonenal, and Specialty Cleansers (10:00) The distinct scent commonly referred to as "old person smell" is caused by 2-nonenal, an unsaturated aldehyde produced through the oxidative breakdown of altered sebum and surface lipids starting around age 40. Dr. Dray stresses that the odor is a normal physiological byproduct rather than a hygiene issue, meaning bathing cannot permanently halt its continuous endogenous production. Moreover, excessive washing often causes severe dryness and irritation in fragile aging skin. Commercial cleansers formulated with persimmon tannins or green tea extracts claim that topical polyphenols prevent nonenal formation by neutralizing lipid oxidation. Dr. Dray clarifies that while this antioxidant theory exists, these expensive specialty products lack objective, peer-reviewed clinical evidence. Regular bathing with standard, affordable soap temporarily manages surface accumulation on skin and textiles without the need for unproven specialty bars. Dr. Dray emphasizes that while physiological mechanisms like peptide signaling and lipid oxidation are genuine biological phenomena, commercial skincare marketing frequently distorts them into unproven claims, ranging from "acne-safe" labels and miraculous reformulations to specialty anti-odor soaps.

Source quotes

[0:00] Dr. Dray: Listen, when it comes to supplements, I don't mess around. I don't recommend supplements. Talk to your doctor about supplements if they are indicated. [6:51] Dr. Dray: Stop thinking about things as acne safe or unsafe. [10:00] Dr. Dray: It's not a hygiene issue, okay? It has nothing to do with hygiene. [10:00] Dr. Dray: Right now, it's not evidence-based. It works well for selling $20 persimmon soap, but whether or not it makes a difference, we don't have any objective evidence.

Original transcript

[0:00] Well, hey guys, welcome back to another skincare Q&A. Picking up where we left off in yesterday's skincare Q&A, let's get into it. These are all saved in a playlist called skincare Q&As. A video you made a while ago comparing the amount of collagen absorbed from either collagen peptides or gelatin. Could you please comment as to whether the information on that old video is outdated or not? Still up to date. that you're wasting your money on collagen peptide supplements just to eat jello. And listen, when it comes to supplements, I don't mess around. I don't recommend supplements. Talk to your doctor about supplements if they are indicated. But objectively, there is some promising research on the collagen peptides for improving moisture retention in the skin, as well as improving collagen. And so you'll come across videos online or claims online, like, because collagen peptide you can go into the grocery store and buy a box of Jell-O and make yourself some jigglers and eat that every day. And like, surely that's the same thing. It's all collagen, right? Well, the difference is not, um, yes, nutritionally speaking, they're probably very similar. They have the same types of amino acids. Um, so nutrition, you know, from just like, I want to take in micro and macro nutrients. I mean, they're, they're pretty similar, right? I mean, Jell-O doesn't really have a whole lot going on, like a little bit of protein, I guess. Gelatin is going to be digested and absorbed than these peptides. So the main difference here is that the collagen peptides, they are hydrolyzed collagen. So they take the collagen basically and break it up into these small little fragments. Gelatin, on the other hand, your body has to break down in the gut, digest, right? It's much larger and you're going to get much larger chains of collagen that need to be broken down. The thing about the collagen peptides is because they are so small, they can absorb very that that happens intact. They're not just broken down by the digestive enzymes. They're absorbed intact and make their way to the skin and they stimulate fibroblasts in your skin to make collagen. That's their proposed mechanism. And there's some evidence that that actually happens. Gelatin, it's not going to absorb those small peptides. Okay. You're not going to get that increase in those small fragments that you get that concentrated increase, very quick absorption with the collagen peptides. So that's really how they differ. I mean, think about it like this. The cells in your skin, the fibroblasts, they have a keyhole on them. And when the key goes in the keyhole and the key turns, well, it unlocks an increase in collagen production, right? So what do you need? You need the key to get there. Collagen peptides are these tiny little things that are absorbed. They are the key that goes in the lock on the fibroblast and unlocks the mechanism to make collagen, okay? collagen fragments, proteins, and you don't get that concentrated dose in the key that is absorbed intact like you do from the collagen peptide. Both keys might be made up of brass. The difference is the collagen peptide supplement key form actually makes its way intact because it's so small to the keyhole so it can go in and unlock it. Whereas the key in the jello, the gelatin, it gets broken down. key in front of the lock. Yes, all of the ingredients are the same that went into making the key, but it's not going to go in the lock. Okay. So that's kind of how they differ. Can you discuss the skincare ingredient protease? Is it a type of exfoliant? The scientific and clinical evidence supporting proteases, which are proteolytic enzymes. As far as topical use, it's basically split between cosmetic indications. So exfoliating and anti-aging and medical therapy, In skincare, topically applied plant-derived proteases like papene, bromelain, or even specialized microbial proteases. These can be used as gentle exfoliating catalysts, like they allow for exfoliating reactions to happen. Topical proteases applied to the skin, they target and hydrolyze keratin in the outermost dead layer, the stratum corneum. for the purposes of cosmetic reasons, does result in smoother skin, an improvement in texture, and an improvement in radiance. They are an attractive option because unlike alpha hydroxy acids, like lycholic acid and lactic acid, which require usually a low pH that can be irritating, topical proteases function at a higher pH that is closer, we'll say, to what your skin's actual pH is. And studies have shown that topical proteases can facilitate [5:00] effective skin turnover, and a reduction in redness. So the proposed benefit here is that you have an ingredient that can help improve skin cell turnover, but may be less likely because of the pH differences to lead to burning, stinging, and might be better suited for people who have sensitive skin. In clinical medicine, topical proteases are used and well-researched for wound debridement. They basically remove damaged dead tissue, which facilitates better healing and collagenase. It basically liquefies a non-viable tissue and allows it to slough off. That's really helpful for wound healing and cutting down on the need to do these like more painful surgical scrapings of the wound. But one thing to keep in mind with proteases is that they're very sensitive proteins. While they, you know, in theory have that pH advantage, they're also very, very fickle and they only operate within a certain narrow range of conditions. So in other words, formulation, matters 100%. Formulation has to be highly engineered to maintain the optimal pH range for the enzyme to function because if those protease enzymes destabilize they're not going to do anything. Now in theory proteases would be less irritating but another note about them unlike alpha hydroxy acids which as they penetrate down into the skin they start to lose their strength as far as exfoliating. Proteases don't so as they penetrate down into the skin they can keep if they're applied at too high a strength or they're left on too long. And then you also have to worry about them specifically in patients who are having a flare-up of an eczema. They have an impaired skin barrier. Adding them to examinous skin, skin in the midst of an eczema flare-up, is discouraged because they can really aggravate burning, stinging, irritation, itch, and just worsen the underlying damage to the skin barrier. Are there any skin camouflage tips you have for thing that's clinically validated, we'll say. There's not acne safe and unsafe. All right. Like there's not, that's not a thing at all. Okay. Stop thinking about things as acne safe or unsafe. Whether or not something aggravates, irritates someone's skin who has acne and worsens the acne boils down to the overall formulation of that thing. What it is they're doing, what all else have going on, their acne, them. I mean, so many little factors that this As far as cosmetic camouflage, you have a couple of options. Namely, you have sunless tanners, which can be great because they produce melanoidins through the interaction of dihydroxyacetone on the surface of the skin. Those melanoidins tint the skin. Basically, it's like long wear makeup. It doesn't come off for a couple of days, weeks, a week or so. So that's an option. coverage foundation. But for areas where you have a scar or hypopigmentation, medical tattooing might also be an option for you. It's got its limitations, of course, and you want to make sure in the case of a scar, that scar has matured fully and has been there for a while. Otherwise, you know, you get remodeling within a scar. And so if you tattooed it too early on, it can look odd. But that's certainly an option to deposit pigment into the skin and offer some camouflage. Like a lot of lessen the appearance, we'll say, of thinning hair. So they'll do that as well. That's another, you know, way in which that can be used to camouflage. So those are definitely options for sure for camouflage. What is new and improved about Cerebi Healing Ointment? So it's got a little bit more petrolatum in it. I think it was like 40, what did I put down? 46.5 before. Now it's 49.5. And then they also added some things. They added, I believe, glycerin, microcrystalline wax, I wrote all this down. Triothal citrate, sodium hyaluronic, which I thought was in there before. Oh, maybe it was hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid before. Anyway, sodium hyaluronic, capryl, glycol, and benzoic acid. They removed ozacarite, dimethicone, proline, phenoxyethanol, pantolactone, which is panthenol, the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, which was replaced by the sodium hyaluronic. It's new, but whether or not it's improved, I mean, that's going to boil down to the true improvement here. They're not going to show you data of their old formula versus their new formula as far as rapidity of skin barrier repair, reduction in trans epidermal water loss. We're not going to ever see that. So improved. Is it improved? You're going to find people on the internet who have tried it out and they claim that it's awful now. You'll find other people who are like, I used to hate it. Now I love it. And then you'll find some people like myself who are like, oh, I didn't even realize that. I've been using it and I didn't notice a difference. Soap for old people smell that costs $20. [10:00] What do you have to say about that? I think what you're referring to is something called the nonial odor. This is due to two noninal. So what the heck is this? This is a natural compound that people tend to produce more of as they age with changes in the lipids, the sebum of the skin surface. It starts around the age of 40 for a lot of people and then, you know, intensifies thereafter. Over time, it's something that, it's not a hygiene issue, okay? It has nothing to do with hygiene. bathe and bathe and you can never get rid of it. It doesn't matter if you're using a $20 soap, $40 soap, a $2 soap. But what bathing does is it does cut down on the overall accumulation and intensity of the smell. Because your body will keep making it, your skin will keep making it, and if you don't bathe every day, which a lot of older adults, they don't tolerate daily bathing anymore because their skin doesn't hold on to moisture as well, so it gets dry and irritated for frequent bathing. They have this nonial odor, it's going to just accumulate on the skin and be as well, bed linens, etc. Now, the working tagline, idea, concept here is that a couple of things. First of all, if you use skincare products or body washes that have polyphenol antioxidants, it might actually help cut down on the oxidation of these fatty acids that leads to that nonial odor, which some people describe as musty, grassy. I mean, everyone has their own. Some people say it really smells like any of those things, but I know it when I smell it. It's hard to say whether or not those things that work like persimmon, tannin, green tea extract. Right now, it's not evidence-based. It works well for selling $20 persimmon soap, but whether or not it makes a difference, we don't have any objective evidence. There's also some idea that eating antioxidant rich foods, I mean, that's good for you, right? Eat your fruits and vegetables, that might help potentially cut down on the formation of two noninol compounds. But yeah, I would say, you know, I reviewed one of these soaps about a year ago at this point already. So you can watch that if you want to know more. Chances are the soap I reviewed is the same soap that you got an ad for that spurred you leaving this question. So yeah, I'll let you check that video out if you want to know more about the persimmon soap I tried, my experience with it. But can't tell you if it's data for it. Okay. I mean, it's just marketing claim at this point. All right, guys, that wraps up another weekend Q and A. Thank you so much for making it to the end of the video. Um, I hope you all enjoyed it. Drop your questions in the comment section for future Q and A videos. They always go up Saturdays and Sundays, 11 a.m. Central Standard Time. And I always pull the questions from the Q and So that's kind of how that works if you're new here and you're not too late if you're wondering, okay? Because I check the comment section within a week of it going live. So, uh, you know If it's the next day from the video going live, you can still leave your question I'll probably see it. But thank you so much. If you enjoyed today's video, give it a thumbs up share it with your friends and as always Don't forget sunscreen and subscribe. I'll talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye Thank you.