Dr Dray Rebuffs Vitamin C 72-Hour Depot Rule Over Porcine Data Gap

Dr Dray

Claims that topical vitamin C creates a 72-hour tissue reservoir stem from pig models rather than human clinical trials, which require daily application to stimulate collagen.

AI-assisted summary of Enlarged Pores? The Best In-Office Treatments | Dermatologist Q&A — original source. Check the original for full context.

Source published: 2026-10-10

Key ideas

Snow mushroom provides strong topical hydration and anti-inflammatory benefits, but consumers should check current formulations before paying a premium for trendy standalone products. (0:04)
Buffered 12% ammonium lactate uniquely increases dermal thickness in clinical trials, providing an evidence-based, low-cost option for addressing dermal atrophy. (1:36)
Radiofrequency microneedling and fractional lasers are the premier in-office options for enlarged pores because thermal dermal injury restores the collagen scaffolding that keeps pore walls taut. (7:09)
The persistent belief that vitamin C serums last 72 hours in human skin stems from porcine studies, while human clinical trials for collagen stimulation tested daily or twice-daily dosing. (8:25)

Detailed notes

## Background Published on YouTube by dermatologist Dr. Dray on October 10, 2026, this Q&A video addresses common skincare and dermatological questions submitted by her followers. The video covers the science behind hydrating ingredients like snow mushroom and electrolytes, compares over-the-counter chemical exfoliants, explores clinical options for spider veins and enlarged pores, reviews cartilage piercing aftercare, and clarifies proper vitamin C serum usage.

## TL;DR Dr. Dray breaks down popular skincare topics, validating snow mushroom and electrolyte-PCA complexes for surface hydration while cautioning viewers against inflated marketing claims. She highlights that 12% ammonium lactate in AmLactin uniquely stimulates dermal thickness compared to standard multi-acid peel pads, recommends sclerotherapy and compression stockings for spider veins, and points to RF microneedling and fractional lasers for restoring pore-supporting collagen. Finally, she debunks the popular belief that vitamin C only needs to be applied every 72 hours, explaining that this reservoir concept stems from pig skin studies rather than human clinical trials.

## Atmosphere & style The video delivers Dr. Dray's signature no-nonsense, evidence-based approach, blending clinical authority with dry, candid humor—most memorably when answering whether vitamin C stays active for three days with a blunt 'If you're a pig, yes.' Her delivery is methodical, relaxed, and conversational, transitioning effortlessly from personal anecdotes about cooking snow mushroom to rigorous breakdowns of percutaneous absorption. Watching the Q&A feels like an empowering, myth-busting consultation that demystifies viral cosmetic trends and replaces marketing hype with clear, practical guidance.

## Bulletin - [00:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=4s) Snow mushroom provides strong topical hydration and anti-inflammatory benefits, but consumers should check current formulations before paying a premium for trendy standalone products. - [01:36](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=96s) Buffered 12% ammonium lactate uniquely increases dermal thickness in clinical trials, providing an evidence-based, low-cost option for addressing dermal atrophy. - [07:09](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=429s) Radiofrequency microneedling and fractional lasers are the premier in-office options for enlarged pores because thermal dermal injury restores the collagen scaffolding that keeps pore walls taut. - [08:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=505s) The persistent belief that vitamin C serums last 72 hours in human skin stems from porcine studies, while human clinical trials for collagen stimulation tested daily or twice-daily dosing.

## Key takeaways - [00:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=4s) Snow mushroom delivers significant hydration and anti-inflammatory properties, though its presence in expensive skincare lines is frequently driven by marketing rather than exclusive efficacy. - [01:36](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=96s) Twelve percent buffered ammonium lactate lotion offers a distinct advantage over standard chemical exfoliants by provenly increasing dermal thickness to combat atrophy. - [02:20](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=140s) The two-step multi-acid and retinol synergy found in high-end peel pads can be replicated affordably by layering an over-the-counter AHA/BHA gel with a retinol serum. - [04:58](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=298s) Spider veins are treated primarily via sclerotherapy injections, followed by consistent use of graduated compression stockings to prevent vessels from refilling. - [05:57](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=357s) Cartilage piercings take 6 to 12 months to heal and should be cleansed gently with saline; picking crusts or applying alcohol, peroxide, or antibiotic ointments impedes wound healing. - [07:09](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=429s) Pores appear enlarged when aging and cumulative UV damage degrade surrounding collagen and elastin, allowing the structural pore lining to dilate outward. - [07:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=445s) RF microneedling and fractional laser resurfacing reduce visible pore diameter by stimulating neocollagenesis to rebuild structural support around the pore opening. - [07:49](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=469s) Topical electrolytes like calcium and magnesium bound to pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) support the skin barrier by mimicking natural moisturizing factors in the stratum corneum. - [08:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=505s) The 72-hour vitamin C depot theory relies on pig skin models, which absorb hydrophilic molecules far more readily than human skin and synthesize vitamin C endogenously. - [09:24](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=564s) Human clinical evidence confirming collagen synthesis and wrinkle reduction from topical L-ascorbic acid requires daily or twice-daily use rather than intermittent application. - [11:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=664s) Common vitamin C derivatives provide general antioxidant defense but lack clinical validation for penetrating human skin to trigger collagen remodeling.

## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=0s) Snow Mushroom for Skin Hydration and Culinary Texture

Dr. Dray kicks off the weekend Q&A by addressing whether snow mushroom (*Tremella fuciformis*) is truly effective as a hydrating skincare ingredient. She confirms that it is remarkably hydrating and naturally contains beneficial anti-inflammatory compounds. While she loves seeing it appear on ingredient lists, she warns against falling for clever marketing hype. Brands often highlight snow mushroom as a miraculous hero feature to justify an expensive price tag. Dr. Dray emphasizes the value of reading product labels carefully: if you check the formulas you already use and love, you may discover it is already in your routine, saving you from buying a costly new release just for the buzzword. She personally has used countless snow mushroom products over the years, starting with a serum from The Inkey List that she reviewed years back.

Beyond topicals, Dr. Dray shares an enthusiastic aside about eating snow mushroom. She initially encountered it in the context of traditional cold dessert soups and wondered, "what the heck is that?" After experimenting with making it at home, she fell in love with it, declaring it "delicious." Though edible snow mushrooms are somewhat expensive, preparing them is fascinating: they are sold as small, dried, white mushroom balls that bloom massively when soaked in water, completely filling the bowl. While they do not taste like anything on their own, their texture transforms dishes, imparting a thick, gelatinous consistency that she thoroughly enjoys.

[01:36](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=96s) Dr. Dennis Gross Peel Pads vs. AmLactin and Affordable Alternatives

A viewer asks whether the cult-favorite Dr. Dennis Gross Peel Pads are comparable to AmLactin lotion. Dr. Dray breaks down how the two-step peel pad system functions: Step 1 uses chemical exfoliants—primarily glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and occasionally other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)—to buff away rough skin and clear comedones. Step 2 applies an antioxidant blend (including coenzyme Q10) alongside retinol, which converts to retinoic acid in the skin to support collagen synthesis and smooth fine lines. Dr. Dray notes that the universal version contains fragrance, which sensitive users should keep in mind.

When evaluating AmLactin as an alternative, Dr. Dray specifies that 12% buffered ammonium lactate offers clinical benefits that rival high-end anti-aging products. While the Dennis Gross pads primarily thicken the epidermis and speed up cell turnover, clinical studies demonstrate that 12% buffered ammonium lactate uniquely increases *dermal* thickness. This makes AmLactin a powerful, evidence-based option for dermal atrophy stemming from aging, deep wrinkles, or past topical steroid use—even outperforming popular anti-aging ingredients like copper peptides.

For those who want the exact multi-acid and retinoid synergy of the Dennis Gross pads without the roughly ninety-dollar price tag, Dr. Dray suggests an over-the-counter pairing: applying CeraVe Acne Control Gel (which contains an AHA and BHA blend like Step 1) followed by a retinol serum from the same line (matching Step 2). While pre-soaked pads provide precise, controlled application that prevents product from migrating toward delicate eyelids, they also waste product because pads are often overly soaked with liquid that gets thrown away.

| Product Option | Active Ingredients | Primary Benefits | Considerations & Pricing | |:--- |:--- |:--- |:--- | | **Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads** | Step 1: Glycolic, Lactic, Salicylic Acids<br>Step 2: Retinol, Antioxidants (CoQ10) | Epidermal exfoliation, pigment clearance, collagen stimulation | Pre-soaked pads allow precise application but cause product waste; contains fragrance; expensive (~$90+) | | **AmLactin Daily Lotion (12% Ammonium Lactate)** | 12% Buffered Ammonium Lactate (Lactic Acid salt) | Exfoliates epidermis AND uniquely increases dermal thickness; reverses dermal atrophy | Backed by strong clinical trials; budget-friendly body/face lotion; hydrating and smoothing | | **CeraVe Routine Alternative** | Step 1: Acne Control Gel (AHA/BHA)<br>Step 2: Resurfacing Retinol Serum | Clears pores, smooths texture, promotes cellular renewal and collagen | Bottle/tube formats; identical net functionality to two-step peel pads at a fraction of the cost |

[04:58](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=298s) Spider Veins: Causes, Sclerotherapy, and Prevention

Addressing a 50-year-old former athlete whose spider veins are spreading up their legs and quads, Dr. Dray explains the practical realities of managing them. The standard medical treatment is sclerotherapy, an in-office procedure where a provider uses a fine needle or cannula to inject a chemical sclerosant directly into the vessel. This solution irritates the vessel walls, causing the prominent vein to clot off, collapse, and gradually be reabsorbed by the body.

Following the procedure, patients must wear graduated compression stockings consistently to prevent the treated veins from refilling and to suppress new vein formation. Dr. Dray urges anyone dealing with spreading veins or lower leg swelling to talk with their physician about medical-grade compression stockings, especially if their daily routine involves prolonged standing or sitting. She also notes that the condition might not just be caused by a recent sedentary lifestyle: - Historical or current use of oral contraceptives and estrogen-based medications significantly increases the prevalence of lower-extremity spider veins. - Past pregnancies frequently trigger vein dilation and spider vein flare-ups due to hormonal shifts and increased pelvic vascular pressure.

[05:57](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=357s) Cartilage Piercing Aftercare and What to Avoid

When caring for a new ear piercing—specifically a cartilage piercing—Dr. Dray outlines a gentle, low-intervention routine. She advises cleansing the front and back of the piercing twice daily using sterile saline solution. Crust and scabs inevitably develop around the wound, but Dr. Dray warns against peeling or picking at dry crusts, which damages healing tissue. Instead, soak the piercing thoroughly with saline until the dried crust rehydrates and softens, allowing it to be gently wiped away without force.

Patience is essential, as cartilage heals far more slowly than earlobes due to lower vascularity, routinely requiring 6 to 12 full months to heal completely. Dr. Dray outlines critical precautions to avoid infection and prolonged inflammation:

- **Do not sleep on the pierced ear**: Pressure and friction irritate the tract and can alter the angle of the piercing. - **Avoid harsh antiseptics**: Skip hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, and drying antibacterial soaps; alcohol and peroxide are cytotoxic and actively slow wound healing. - **Skip topical antibiotic ointments**: Avoid Neosporin or triple-antibiotic ointments, as ingredients like neomycin frequently induce allergic contact dermatitis. - **Keep out of natural bodies of water and pools**: Do not submerge your head in swimming pools, lakes, or the ocean ("who knows what's swimming around in there?"), though running tap water in the shower is perfectly acceptable.

[07:09](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=429s) Best In-Office Treatments for Enlarged Pores

When asked for the single best in-office procedure for prominent, enlarged pores, Dr. Dray highlights radiofrequency (RF) microneedling and fractional lasers. She explains that pore size is fundamentally tethered to structural dermal integrity. As skin experiences cumulative ultraviolet sun damage and chronological aging, the collagen and elastin supporting the surrounding tissue degrade.

Without sufficient structural scaffolding, the pore wall sags and dilates outward, making the pore opening appear significantly wider and deeper. Both RF microneedling and fractional laser resurfacing deliver controlled thermal injury into the dermis, triggering robust neocollagenesis. Rebuilding this collagen matrix restores structural tension around the pore lining, pulling the pore taut and reducing its visible diameter.

[07:49](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=469s) Electrolytes and PCA in Skincare Formulations

Dr. Dray addresses the trend of electrolyte-infused skincare, validating that mineral ions such as calcium and magnesium play a real role in skin health. Applied topically, these minerals deliver hydration to the surface layers of the stratum corneum, which subsequently fortifies the skin barrier.

She points out that these minerals are most commonly formulated as mineral salts bound to pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, such as magnesium PCA or calcium PCA. Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is an integral component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which regulates water retention and barrier equilibrium. Formulating electrolytes with PCA enhances skin compatibility, boosts mineral absorption, and provides reliable surface hydration.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Electrolyte and PCA Skin Hydration Mechanism accDescr: Flowchart illustrating how mineral PCA complexes support the skin barrier and moisture retention.

subgraph Formulation ["Skincare Complex"] A["Electrolytes<br>(Calcium & Magnesium Ions)"] B["PCA<br>(Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid)"] end

subgraph BiologicalAction ["Physiological Mechanism"] C["Mimics Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF)"] D["Optimizes Mineral Uptake in Stratum Corneum"] end

subgraph ClinicalResult ["Skin Benefits"] E["Surface Hydration"] F["Barrier Function Maintenance"] end

A --> D B --> C C --> E D --> E E --> F ```

[08:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=505s) Vitamin C Serum Frequency and the 72-Hour Pig Skin Myth

The viewer asks whether L-ascorbic acid remains active in the skin for 72 hours post-application, suggesting that one only needs to apply vitamin C every two or three days. Dr. Dray delivers a blunt reality check: "If you're a pig, yes."

She explains that the widely cited claim that topical ascorbic acid builds a 72-hour reservoir in tissue comes directly from historical percutaneous absorption studies performed on porcine (pig) skin rather than human skin. While pig skin is a standard, reputable model for transdermal penetration testing, it has significant biological differences that distort real-world human skincare claims:

- **Hydrophilic permeability**: Pig skin is significantly more permeable to hydrophilic (water-soluble) molecules like L-ascorbic acid than human skin. As a result, pig skin models easily overestimate how deeply and extensively ascorbic acid absorbs in human tissue. - **Endogenous vitamin C synthesis**: Unlike humans—who lack the enzyme L-gulonolactone oxidase and cannot synthesize vitamin C—pigs naturally manufacture their own vitamin C internally from glucose. This difference complicates baseline tissue measurements and retention timelines.

[09:24](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=564s) The Vitamin C Depot Effect: Animal Studies vs. Clinical Reality

Dr. Dray addresses the persistent theory that vitamin C serums only need to be applied every two to three days due to a biological "depot effect." She traces this idea back to porcine research, which demonstrated that topically applied ascorbic acid can remain active within pig skin for up to 72 hours, essentially forming a reservoir. While this suggests in theory that an individual could apply vitamin C every second or third day and still receive adequate protection, she cautions that there is no clinical data testing this specific dosing schedule in humans.

A major caveat when interpreting these findings is the physiological divergence between species. Humans cannot synthesize their own vitamin C and must obtain it entirely through diet, whereas pigs synthesize it endogenously. Furthermore, pig skin is considerably "more welcoming" to hydrophilic (water-soluble) compounds than human skin. While pig models were instrumental in optimizing the formulation parameters and systemic absorption requirements for ascorbic acid, human clinical trials demonstrating stimulated collagen production evaluated daily or even twice-daily applications. Dr. Dray acknowledges that applying it less frequently might still offer benefits—and admits she "wouldn't be surprised" if it works—but emphasizes that no published human citation exists to confirm its efficacy at that reduced frequency.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Vitamin C Depot Effect Comparison accDescr: Flowchart contrasting the pig study model with human clinical realities regarding topical ascorbic acid.

subgraph PigModel["Pig Model Findings"] A["Endogenous Vitamin C Synthesis"] B["Skin More Welcoming to Hydrophilic Actives"] C["72-Hour Depot Effect Observed"] A --> C B --> C end

subgraph HumanReality["Human Clinical Evidence"] D["Diet-Dependent (No Endogenous Synthesis)"] E["Tested Strictly on Daily / BID Applications"] F["Proven Collagen Production & Wrinkle Reduction"] D --> E E --> F end

C -.->|"Theoretical Extension (Unproven in Humans)"| E ```

[11:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=664s) Pure L-Ascorbic Acid vs. Derivatives for Collagen Stimulation

Dr. Dray warns consumers about assuming that every vitamin C product on the shelf behaves like pure L-ascorbic acid. She jokingly refers to the endless derivatives flooding the market as "all the lottie dotties," pointing out magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate as common examples. While these derivative forms are not bad ingredients, they typically only deliver surface-level antioxidant activity. In that respect, they provide little distinct advantage over any other basic antioxidant serum on the market.

The primary reason dermatologists and consumers prize true L-ascorbic acid is its dual functionality: in addition to broad antioxidant protection against oxidative stress, a properly formulated ascorbic acid serum actually penetrates the skin to stimulate dermal collagen synthesis and reduce visible fine lines and wrinkles. By contrast, everyday antioxidants like green tea and niacinamide simply do not trigger that same collagen-boosting cascade. Therefore, if collagen stimulation is the primary skincare goal, only correctly formulated ascorbic acid carries the clinical weight to achieve it.

- **Porcine vs. Human Skin Differences:** Pigs naturally synthesize vitamin C and have skin that absorbs hydrophilic substances more readily, meaning their 72-hour depot effect cannot be directly mapped onto human skin without dedicated human trials. - **Human Clinical Protocol:** The clinical studies confirming boosted collagen synthesis and wrinkle reduction required daily or twice-daily human application. - **Ascorbic Acid vs. Derivatives:** Ingredients like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate work as antioxidants, but they lack clinical backing for direct collagen stimulation. - **Other Common Actives:** Ingredients such as green tea and niacinamide offer antioxidant defense, but neither triggers collagen remodeling like properly formulated L-ascorbic acid.

[12:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=720s) Video Wrap-Up and Final Reminders

Dr. Dray brings the Q&A session to a close, expressing her appreciation for the community's engaging questions. She encourages viewers to give the video a thumbs up if they found the discussion helpful, share it with friends who might benefit from the advice, and subscribe to the channel. As is her signature sign-off, she leaves her audience with a quick reminder: "don't forget sunscreen and subscribe," before signing off until the next day.

## Notable quotes > [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=0s) what the heck is that? — Dr. Dray

> [00:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=0s) delicious — Dr. Dray

> [05:57](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=357s) who knows what's swimming around in there? — Dr. Dray

> [08:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=505s) If you're a pig, yes. — Dr. Dray

> [09:24](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=564s) more welcoming — Dr. Dray

> [09:24](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=564s) wouldn't be surprised — Dr. Dray

> [11:04](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=664s) all the lottie dotties — Dr. Dray

> [12:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60&t=720s) don't forget sunscreen and subscribe — Dr. Dray

## Mentioned Dr. Dray, The Inkey List, Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads, AmLactin Daily Lotion, CeraVe Acne Control Gel, CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, Neosporin, Snow Mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), Ammonium Lactate, L-Ascorbic Acid, Coenzyme Q10, Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid

## Video description Dermatologist Dr. Dray answers skincare questions from her followers in this Q&A, covering hydrating skincare ingredients, chemical exfoliants, spider veins, piercing aftercare, enlarged pores, electrolytes in skincare, and vitamin C serums.

Can snow mushroom improve skin hydration? Are Dr. Dennis Gross Peel Pads comparable to AmLactin? What is the best in-office treatment for enlarged pores? Dr. Dray discusses the science behind popular skincare ingredients and treatments, explains what to consider when choosing skincare products, and shares practical advice for maintaining healthy skin.

This video also covers how to care for new ear piercings, including cartilage piercings, treatment options for spider veins, and whether vitamin C serum needs to be applied daily to support skin rejuvenation and collagen production.

TIMESTAMPS 0:00 Intro 0:04 Snow Mushroom for Skin Hydration 1:36 Dr. Dennis Gross Peel Pads vs. AmLactin 4:58 Spider Veins: Treatment Options 5:57 How to Care for New Ear Piercings and Cartilage Piercings 7:09 Best In-Office Treatments for Enlarged Pores 7:49 Electrolytes in Skincare: Do They Help the Skin Barrier? 8:25 Vitamin C Serum: Can You Apply It Every 2 to 3 Days? 12:00 Outro

Watch for dermatologist insights on skincare ingredients, exfoliating acids, skin hydration, collagen stimulation, pore appearance, and practical skincare routines.

Subscribe to Dr. Dray for more dermatologist skincare advice, ingredient reviews, skincare Q&As, and evidence-based tips for healthy skin.

#DrDray #Dermatologist #Skincare #SkincareQandA #SnowMushroom #AmLactin #DennisGross #SpiderVeins #EarPiercingAftercare #EnlargedPores #VitaminCSerum #SkinBarrier #SkincareIngredients #skincaretips

FTC: This video is not sponsored. Links are commissionable, meaning I may earn commission from purchases made through links.

💜Shop my Amazon store https://o.bttn.io/0BwiPWFIZLG 💜Follow me on liketoknowit https://www.liketoknow.it/drdrayzday 💜Social media Instagram @drdrayzday Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/drdrayzday/ Facebook @DrDrayzDay Twitter: @drdrayzday Tiktok: @drdrayzday

Disclaimer: This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this Youtube channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this Youtube channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.

[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0cXvfQ8h60)

中文简报

Dr Dray驳斥维生素C“72小时储存库”说法：数据仅源自猪模型宣称外用维生素C可在组织中形成72小时“储存库”的说法源自猪模型而非人体临床试验，而促进胶原蛋白生成的人体试验均要求每日涂抹。 Dr. Dray解析了多个热门护肤话题，肯定了银耳提取物和电解质-PCA复合物在表层补水方面的功效，同时提醒观众警惕夸大的营销宣传。她强调，与常规多酸去角质棉片相比，AmLactin中12%的乳酸铵在增加真皮厚度方面具有独特优势；她建议针对蛛网状静脉曲张采用硬化疗法并穿戴压力袜，并指出射频微针和点阵激光是恢复毛孔支撑性胶原蛋白的有效手段。最后，她打破了维生素C只需每72小时涂抹一次的流行观点，解释称这一储存库概念源于猪皮研究，而非人体临床试验。银耳具有强大的局部补水和抗炎功效，但消费者在为热门单品支付溢价之前，应先确认现有产品的配方成分。 (0:04) 临床试验显示，缓冲型12%乳酸铵能独特地增加真皮厚度，为改善真皮萎缩提供了基于循证依据且低成本的选择。 (1:36) 射频微针和点阵激光是改善毛孔粗大的首选院内项目，因为真皮热损伤能重建胶原蛋白支架，使毛孔壁维持紧致。 (7:09) 关于维生素C精华在人类皮肤中可留存72小时的固有看法源于猪体研究，而以促进胶原蛋白为目标的人体临床试验测试的均为每日一次或每日两次的用量方案。 (8:25)

Reading summary

In this Q&A session, Dr. Dray evaluates common skincare trends and clinical interventions, emphasizing that treatment efficacy depends on dermal physiology, formulation chemistry, and species-specific evidence rather than marketing claims. Exfoliants, Retinoids, and Dermal Thickness (1:36) When comparing multi-step luxury products like the roughly $90 Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads to drugstore formulations, Dr. Dray notes that the underlying active ingredients can be replicated or even outperformed at lower price points. While the peel pads use alpha and beta hydroxy acids alongside retinol to stimulate cell turnover and epidermal renewal, a multi-acid acne gel paired with an over-the-counter retinol serum offers equivalent biological functionality. Furthermore, clinical trials demonstrate that 12% buffered ammonium lactate (found in AmLactin) uniquely enhances dermal thickness rather than solely exfoliating the epidermis. This makes ammonium lactate particularly beneficial for addressing deep wrinkles, aging, and dermal atrophy caused by past topical steroid use. Structural Interventions for Enlarged Pores and Veins (7:09) Dr. Dray clarifies that visible pore dilation stems from a breakdown of structural dermal support caused by cumulative ultraviolet radiation and chronological aging. Because pores widen when surrounding collagen and elastin sag, topicals alone have limited impact; she identifies radiofrequency microneedling and fractional lasers as the most effective in-office treatments because their controlled thermal injury triggers neocollagenesis to restore dermal tension around the pore walls. For lower-extremity spider veins, which often proliferate due to estrogen therapy, past pregnancies, or prolonged standing, the standard clinical remedy is in-office sclerotherapy injections to collapse the vessel, followed by consistent use of graduated compression stockings to suppress recurrence. Low-Intervention Wound Care for Cartilage Piercings (5:57) Due to reduced vascularity, ear cartilage piercings heal substantially slower than standard lobe piercings, typically requiring six to twelve full months to fully resolve. Dr. Dray recommends a low-intervention routine consisting solely of twice-daily cleansing with sterile saline, advising individuals to soak crusts until soft rather than picking at them to avoid tearing regenerating tissue. She advises against applying cytotoxic antiseptics such as rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, warning that they impair wound healing. She also cautions against topical antibiotic ointments like Neosporin due to their high risk of inducing allergic contact dermatitis, and warns against submerging the head in pools or natural bodies of water. Debunking the Vitamin C 72-Hour Depot Myth (8:25) Dr. Dray addresses the common claim that topical L-ascorbic acid only needs to be applied every two to three days due to a 72-hour tissue reservoir, noting that this theory originates from percutaneous absorption studies conducted on pig skin rather than humans. Unlike human skin, porcine tissue is significantly more permeable to hydrophilic molecules like ascorbic acid, and pigs synthesize vitamin C endogenously from glucose, which can distort retention timelines. Human trials confirming stimulated collagen synthesis and wrinkle reduction have evaluated daily or twice-daily application. While derivatives like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate provide basic surface antioxidant protection, Dr. Dray emphasizes that properly formulated pure L-ascorbic acid remains the only variant clinically backed to stimulate dermal collagen remodeling. Barrier Hydration: Snow Mushroom and Mineral PCAs (0:00) Addressing hydrating ingredients, Dr. Dray confirms that snow mushroom (Tremella fuciformis) is genuinely hydrating and naturally anti-inflammatory, though she warns that brands frequently overprice products by marketing it as a novel miracle ingredient when it already exists across many basic formulations. Similarly, trending electrolyte formulations deliver genuine surface hydration when calcium and magnesium ions are paired with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA). Because PCA is an endogenous component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor, these complexes integrate well into the stratum corneum to reinforce moisture retention and skin barrier equilibrium. Dr. Dray concludes by reminding patients that less frequent vitamin C dosing remains clinically unproven in humans, and reinforces basic daily photoprotection alongside evidence-based skincare choices.

Source quotes

[0:00] Dr. Dray: what the heck is that? [0:00] Dr. Dray: delicious [5:57] Dr. Dray: who knows what's swimming around in there? [8:25] Dr. Dray: If you're a pig, yes. [9:24] Dr. Dray: more welcoming [9:24] Dr. Dray: wouldn't be surprised [11:04] Dr. Dray: all the lottie dotties [12:00] Dr. Dray: don't forget sunscreen and subscribe

Original transcript

[0:00] Well, hey guys. Welcome back to the [0:02] weekend Q&A. Let's get into it. What are [0:05] your thoughts on snow mushroom as a [0:06] hydrating ingredient? Yes, snow mushroom [0:09] Tremella fuciformis is very hydrating. [0:11] Very good. Also has some potentially [0:13] anti-inflammatory compounds in it. I [0:15] love it when it appears in skin care [0:17] products as it frequently does. [0:19] Sometimes they market the snow mushroom [0:22] as a feature of the product. That's why [0:23] reading ingredients can be helpful [0:25] because you know, like I'm already using [0:27] something that I like with that. So, I'm [0:28] not going to fall for this new expensive [0:31] thing that is marketing the the snow [0:33] mushroom when I already know I have [0:35] something that I has that and I like it. [0:37] That's why knowing what your ingredients [0:39] are, I think can be helpful on, you [0:40] know, reading your labels. I actually do [0:43] really like the ingredient. I I tried a [0:45] serum several years ago and reviewed it [0:47] from the Inkey List and I mean, I've [0:49] since used tons of stuff with snow I I [0:51] couldn't I have lost count of all the [0:53] things with snow mushroom that I've used [0:54] and liked over the years. I also enjoy [0:56] eating snow mushroom. At first, I was [0:58] like, what the heck is that? It's like a [1:00] soup, cold soup they eat for dessert. [1:02] Um, so I experimented with making that [1:04] myself and it is delicious, okay? But, [1:07] uh, the snow mushroom, you know, the [1:09] edible snow mushrooms, they're [1:10] expensive. So, I don't I don't eat them [1:12] that often, but I really enjoy They [1:14] actually don't taste like anything, but [1:16] they're kind of fun because it comes it [1:18] looks like this little white ball, [1:20] mushroom ball. It's dry, right? And you [1:22] soak it in water and it just like fills [1:24] the bowl with this massive blooming [1:26] mushroom thing. It kind of is almost [1:28] like the consistency of like it doesn't [1:30] have any It doesn't have any taste, but [1:32] it sort of thickens things and gives [1:34] stuff like a gelatinous texture. What do [1:36] you think of the Dr. Dennis Gross peel [1:38] pads um, or do you think AmLactin can do [1:40] the same net job? So, the peel pads are [1:44] two pads that you do sequentially. The [1:46] first is a combination of glycolic, [1:49] lactic, and salicylic acid. There may be [1:51] some other alpha hydroxy acid in there, [1:53] which is going to exfoliate and that can [1:54] improve dry rough skin texture, cut down [1:57] on comedone formation. And yeah, [1:59] AmLactin can do all of that. The second [2:01] step is um another pad that uh has a [2:05] variety of antioxidants like I think it [2:06] has coenzyme Q10 in it, but it also has [2:09] retinol. So, that you put on and it's [2:12] going to, you know, retinol is a [2:13] cosmetic ingredient that improves the [2:15] look of aging skin and um there's [2:18] evidence that it can, after it converts [2:20] that is to retinoic acid, improve [2:22] collagen production. Um so, this prod- [2:24] product product um is very popular and [2:26] there are a couple of different [2:27] renditions of it that they sell um from [2:30] this brand, Dr. Dennis Gross. The [2:32] universal one at least is the one I [2:33] tried. It does have fragrance in it. So, [2:36] you know, there's that, but um how does [2:38] it compare to uh to AmLactin? Well, [2:40] which AmLactin, right? Cuz AmLactin [2:42] makes a couple of different lotions, but [2:44] if we're talking about the 12% ammonium [2:46] lactate buffered ammonium lactate, we [2:48] know from clinical studies that 12% [2:50] buffered ammonium lactate works beyond [2:52] just the improvement in epidermal [2:54] thickness, which um you know, this [2:56] product from Dennis Gross likely could [2:59] do as well the epidermis, but 12% is [3:02] unique in that it also [3:03] results in improvement of of dermal [3:05] thickness. So, if you've got any atrophy [3:07] of the dermis related to age, wrinkles, [3:10] topical steroid use, you know, 12% [3:12] buffered ammonium lactate is an [3:14] ingredient that is a lot more [3:16] evidence-based than a lot of ingredients [3:18] out there like copper peptides, for [3:20] example. Uh you know, as far as [3:22] improving texture, pore clogging, [3:24] uh s- smoothing out the skin, improving [3:26] skin radiance, helping to hasten the [3:28] clearance of epidermal unwanted [3:30] pigmentation. Uh the Dennis Gross thing [3:32] will do that, but the Dennis Gross [3:34] product is not the only kid on the [3:36] block. There are a ton of products out [3:38] there that are a combination of alpha [3:40] hydroxy acids plus salicylic acid. [3:43] CeraVe's acne control gel is pretty much [3:45] the same thing as step one pad. Use [3:48] that. CeraVe also has a retinol in that [3:50] acne control line. That's pretty much [3:52] step two. You know, instead of little [3:54] pads, you got bottles, okay? You know, [3:57] serum pump bottles and a tube a tube and [3:59] a bottle. It's up to you what you [4:00] prefer, what you like, but they can all [4:02] do pretty much the same thing. You know, [4:05] if one is truly objectively superior, we [4:07] need the study to show that, which we'll [4:09] never get. Cuz there's no one's going to [4:11] do a an objective peer-reviewed a [4:13] non-industry study comparing the [4:16] clinical outcomes of using what I just [4:18] said, the CeraVe acne control gel [4:20] followed by uh their uh retinol versus [4:24] the Dennis Gross two pad thing. The two [4:26] pad thing, you know, is kind of nice [4:28] because I will say when it comes to [4:30] pads, I sort of like them because they [4:31] allow for very precise application of a [4:34] thin layer. But, you ultimately do end [4:36] up wasting probably some of the product, [4:38] too, because sometimes they're like [4:40] really heavily soaked, and you're not [4:41] going to squeeze that much, you know, [4:43] that's kind of annoying. So, it kind of [4:45] all depends, but I do like them for [4:46] precise application, cuts down on [4:48] running around the eyelids and [4:49] everything. So, I like that. But, yeah, [4:51] I don't know. I think the Dennis Gross [4:53] thing is like ninety-something dollars. [4:54] So, I'm like, [4:55] uh you could get these two CeraVe [4:57] products for much less than that. I am [4:59] 50, and I was an athlete all my life [5:01] until my recent job made exercising [5:03] hard. I've developed spider veins, not [5:05] diagnosed, as they seem to keep [5:06] spreading up my legs to my quads even, [5:08] and I know being sedentary is bad, but [5:10] can they be removed or treated? This uh [5:12] can be treated with something called [5:14] sclerotherapy, uh where they basically [5:16] go in with a you know, like a cannula, [5:19] and they inject a sclerosant, clots off [5:21] the prominent spider vein. Um and and [5:24] they die off and go away, your body [5:26] absorbs them. Uh and then you've got to [5:28] wear a compression stockings a lot right [5:31] afterward to keep them from coming back, [5:33] but therefore, you know, moving forward, [5:35] you got to do that, too. If you're on [5:36] your feet a lot, I do suggest um you [5:39] know, if it's [5:40] talk to your doctor about compression [5:41] stockings, especially if you have lower [5:43] leg swelling. A history of oral [5:45] contraceptives, estrogen-based [5:48] medications can also make spider veins [5:51] on the legs more common. Pregnancy, [5:53] they'll pop out. So, it may not all be [5:55] related to your history as an athlete. [5:58] Could you please share how to properly [5:59] care for a new ear piercing, namely a [6:02] cartilage piercing? So, I would suggest [6:04] getting some sterile saline, and you can [6:07] apply it, you know, initially twice a [6:10] day. Just use it to clean the area, [6:13] front and back. If you you know, if you [6:15] develop scabbing, don't pick the dry [6:17] scab off. Instead, you want to soak the [6:20] area really well and allow the dried [6:22] crusty stuff to just naturally hydrate [6:25] up and come off on its own to gently rub [6:27] it away. Don't pick the dry stuff off, [6:30] in other words. But, cartilage piercings [6:32] do take a lot longer to heal than your [6:34] earlobes. They usually take 6 to 12 [6:36] months to fully heal. I wouldn't sleep [6:38] on that side if you can avoid it, and I [6:40] also would not use anything like [6:42] hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or any kind [6:45] of antibacterial soap, no Neosporin, cuz [6:48] that can trigger a contact dermatitis. [6:50] And then, alcohol and peroxide can slow [6:53] the healing process down for you. I also [6:55] would not submerge my head under water [6:58] at a pool or in a lake or the ocean, cuz [7:02] who knows what's swimming around in [7:03] there? And you know, I wouldn't I [7:06] wouldn't do that. But, you know, your [7:07] regular tap water in your shower is [7:09] probably fine. What is the best [7:11] in-office treatment for enlarged pores? [7:13] Probably radio frequency microneedling, [7:17] as well as fractional laser. These are [7:19] technologies, treatments that are going [7:21] to result in an improvement in collagen [7:24] production, and that's going to help [7:26] support the pore lining, the pore you [7:28] know, the pore wall. What happens with [7:31] prominent pores often is they can be [7:33] obvious or brought out or worsened by a [7:35] lot of sun damage and aging, because as [7:38] you lose that dermal support around the [7:40] pore, dilates out and becomes more [7:42] prominent. So, yeah, those things can [7:44] help. What do you think of skin care [7:45] based on electrolytes? So, mineral ions [7:49] can like calcium, magnesium for example, [7:52] they can in theory help to [7:54] hydrate, you know, provide surface [7:55] hydration that ultimately would help the [7:57] barrier. Oftentimes you'll see these [7:59] ingredients as part of something called [8:02] like magnesium PCA or calcium PCA and [8:06] these are commonly used in skin care. [8:09] They actually mimic natural moisturizing [8:11] factors in your skin that are [8:12] responsible for moisture content in the [8:15] skin and barrier maintenance and they [8:17] allow for you know, better uptake of [8:19] those electrolytes as well. So, yeah, [8:22] they're commonly used and and and [8:24] they're good for hydrating basically. Is [8:25] it true that vitamin C is active in the [8:28] skin 72 hours after application so that [8:31] we only have to use it every third or [8:33] every other day. If you're a pig, yes. [8:36] Cuz the absorption studies were done on [8:39] pig skin not human skin for ascorbic [8:41] acid. But that being said, pig skin is [8:44] actually a very good typical the [8:45] typically the model for doing topical [8:48] absorption studies. But it does have [8:50] some limitations that I think are [8:51] especially worth knowing about when [8:53] you're thinking about ascorbic acid and [8:55] interpreting ascorbic acid claims [8:58] because one thing about pig skin is it's [9:00] a lot more accepting of hydrophilic [9:03] water loving aka ingredients like [9:05] ascorbic acid in comparison to human [9:07] skin. So, in other words, it could [9:09] overestimate the extent it can easily [9:11] overestimate the extent of absorption of [9:13] ascorbic acid in comparison to what it [9:16] would be like actually for human skin. [9:18] And then one thing about pigs in [9:20] contrast to people is they actually can [9:22] make vitamin C themselves from glucose. [9:24] Humans can't. We have to get vitamin C [9:26] from our diet. We don't make it and so [9:29] that's a you know, that definitely could [9:31] have an influence on the results of this [9:33] depot effect which yeah, that was shown [9:35] in the pig studies that ascorbic acid in [9:39] the skin, you know, that it can remain [9:41] active for up to 72 hours, has this [9:43] depot effect. And in theory, based off [9:46] of that, based off of the pig model, in [9:48] theory you could get away with using it [9:50] every second or third day, but we don't [9:52] have any clinical data on that dosing [9:54] frequency. So, you got to be careful [9:56] because we have pig data showing that [9:59] there's a depot effect, but the pig has [10:01] some unique features about it that are [10:03] different from humans that you would [10:05] question, is that truly relevant to [10:07] humans? You know, it's still a [10:09] convincing model for the systemic [10:11] absorption and the formulation features [10:14] of ascorbic acid needed to get it into [10:16] the skin. Based on the pig data, they [10:18] were able to optimize vitamin C [10:20] formulation and then take it into a [10:22] clinical study and show benefits in [10:24] collagen production. But the clinical [10:25] study on actual human beings, not pigs, [10:28] they were applying it daily, sometimes [10:29] twice a day. So, we don't have any [10:31] clinical data showing that ascorbic acid [10:33] applied every third day, you know, how [10:36] that compares, okay? To answer the [10:37] question, okay? So, yeah, if you're a [10:39] pig at least we know that there's a [10:41] depot effect, but pigs do make their own [10:43] vitamin C, that could influence it, and [10:44] pig skin is a lot more welcoming, if you [10:47] will, of hydrophilic ingredients. So, [10:49] that also could influence things. And [10:50] so, you want to be careful with just [10:52] assuming that getting you'd be able to [10:54] get away with using it less frequently. [10:56] I imagine you can, okay? Like, you know, [10:58] I wouldn't I wouldn't be surprised, but [11:00] I can't, you know, give you a good [11:02] citation that that's actually going to [11:03] do anything. We're talking specifically [11:05] about ascorbic acid. have any of this [11:08] kind of information for all the lottie [11:09] dottie's out there, okay? Which more [11:12] often than not, unless you read the [11:13] ingredients on your vitamin C serum, you [11:15] could be buying a lottie dottie. [11:16] Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium [11:19] ascorbyl These aren't bad ingredients, [11:21] but they probably are just doing [11:22] antioxidant stuff. Cool, that's [11:24] beneficial, okay? Not saying it's not, [11:26] but how how much more beneficial is that [11:29] in comparison to any other antioxidant [11:31] serum out there. The The catching you [11:34] know the The attractive thing about [11:36] vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is that [11:39] antioxidant effect, but also if it gets [11:42] in there like it did the pig, clinical [11:43] studies suggest yeah, it can if it's [11:45] formulated correctly, then it's going to [11:47] improve collagen production, we're going [11:48] to get a reduction of wrinkles. [11:49] Niacinamide and green tea and stuff like [11:53] that, it doesn't do the collagen [11:54] boosting thing. That ascorbic acid can [11:57] if it's correctly formulated or yeah. [12:00] All right guys, that about wraps it up. [12:01] Thank you so much for your fantastic [12:03] questions. I hope you guys enjoyed [12:05] today's Q&A. Give it a thumbs up, share [12:07] it with your friends, and as always, [12:08] don't forget sunscreen and subscribe. [12:10] I'll talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye. [12:12] >> [music] [12:26] [music]