Dr Dray Warns Powder Sunscreens Fail as Standalone UV Defense

Dr Dray

Powder formulations cannot achieve the density required to match labeled SPF ratings, restricting their effective use to setting liquid sunscreens and absorbing surface shine.

AI-assisted summary of Can Powder Sunscreen Really Protect Your Skin? | Dermatologist — original source. Check the original for full context.

Source published: 2026-10-11

Key ideas

Facial exercises cannot eliminate a double chin because spot fat reduction is physiologically impossible, leaving procedural treatments like deoxycholic acid, cryolipolysis, or liposuction as the only clinically proven solutions. (0:08)
Powder sunscreens are unreliable as standalone photoprotection due to the impracticality of applying the required 2 mg/cm² density, but they work effectively as cosmetic mattifiers to set liquid sunscreen. (1:32)
Routine potassium monitoring is no longer considered necessary for young, healthy patients taking oral spironolactone with normal kidney function. (2:41)
Dedicated UV-blocking umbrellas block 99% of direct overhead radiation, yet users can still burn due to diffuse UV rays reflecting off surfaces like concrete, sand, and water. (4:00)

Detailed notes

## Background Published on YouTube by dermatologist Dr Dray on October 11, 2026, this Q&A video addresses common skincare questions submitted by her followers. The video description outlines discussions covering double chin interventions, the effectiveness and limitations of powder sunscreens, side effects and potassium testing associated with spironolactone, copper peptide irritation, UV-blocking umbrellas, and the emerging hyperpigmentation ingredient KT-939.

## TL;DR Dr. Dray debunks the myth that facial exercises can reduce a double chin, clarifying that submental fat is genetically influenced and requires targeted clinical procedures or systemic fat loss. She explains that powder sunscreens are inadequate as standalone sun protection due to application density issues, though they serve well as mattifying cosmetic powders to lock in liquid sunscreens. Addressing dermatological medications and topicals, she notes that routine potassium testing is unnecessary for healthy patients on oral spironolactone, details the recent reformulation of CeraVe Healing Ointment, and attributes copper peptide irritation to overall formulation vehicles rather than the molecule itself. Finally, she examines the physics of UV-blocking umbrellas, noting that diffuse ground radiation still necessitates sunscreen, and reviews preliminary research on the novel tyrosinase inhibitor KT-939.

## Atmosphere & style The video maintains Dr. Dray's characteristic clinical, no-nonsense, and evidence-based demeanor, delivering practical medical advice with matter-of-fact transparency. The presentation feels intimate and casual yet deeply informative, reminiscent of an unhurried consultation interspersed with relatable personal anecdotes, such as her own trials with irritating skincare serums. It closes on a lighthearted, self-deprecating note when a glitch in her phone's Notes app disrupts her filming outline, humanizing the polished dermatological guidance.

## Bulletin - [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) Facial exercises cannot eliminate a double chin because spot fat reduction is physiologically impossible, leaving procedural treatments like deoxycholic acid, cryolipolysis, or liposuction as the only clinically proven solutions. - [01:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=92s) Powder sunscreens are unreliable as standalone photoprotection due to the impracticality of applying the required 2 mg/cm² density, but they work effectively as cosmetic mattifiers to set liquid sunscreen. - [02:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=161s) Routine potassium monitoring is no longer considered necessary for young, healthy patients taking oral spironolactone with normal kidney function. - [04:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=240s) Dedicated UV-blocking umbrellas block 99% of direct overhead radiation, yet users can still burn due to diffuse UV rays reflecting off surfaces like concrete, sand, and water.

## Key takeaways - [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) Facial exercises are completely ineffective for reducing submental fullness because localized muscle activity does not mobilize adjacent fat stores. - [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) Submental fat distribution is heavily dictated by genetics and anatomy, often persisting even when an individual loses weight elsewhere. - [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) Clinically proven options for reducing submental adipose tissue are limited to procedures such as deoxycholic acid injections, cryolipolysis, and surgical liposuction. - [01:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=92s) Powder sunscreens should not be relied upon as primary sun protection because achieving the labeled SPF requires an impractically heavy application of two milligrams per square centimeter. - [01:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=92s) Powder sunscreens serve a functional cosmetic role by absorbing excess shine and physically anchoring emollient liquid sunscreens to prevent migration into the eyes. - [02:27](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=147s) Topical spironolactone carries a small risk of breast tenderness in clinical practice due to potential low-level systemic absorption, though at far lower rates than the oral formulation. - [02:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=161s) Healthy patients with normal baseline renal function taking oral spironolactone for acne do not require periodic laboratory monitoring of potassium levels. - [02:57](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=177s) The reformulated CeraVe Healing Ointment increased its petrolatum concentration to 49.5% and introduced glycerin and hyaluronic acid while phasing out dimethicone and ozokerite. - [03:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=205s) Irritation or peeling from copper peptide serums in retinoid-tolerant skin is typically driven by vehicle components, preservatives, or penetration enhancers rather than the peptide molecule alone. - [04:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=240s) Dedicated sun umbrellas block up to 99% of overhead UV rays and reflect infrared heat, whereas standard dark rain umbrellas block 70% to 90% but trap radiant heat underneath. - [04:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=240s) Overhead umbrellas do not protect against diffuse, scattered UV radiation reflecting upward from ground surfaces, necessitating sunscreen and UPF apparel. - [05:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=318s) Methyloxetanecarbamido thiazolyl resorcinol (KT-939) is an emerging tyrosinase inhibitor chemically related to Thiamidol being investigated for hyperpigmentation. - [05:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=318s) While in vitro studies show strong tyrosinase inhibition for KT-939, comprehensive human clinical data and direct head-to-head comparisons against Thiamidol remain lacking.

## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) Double Chin Treatments and the Myth of Spot Reduction

Dr. Dray kicks off the Q&A by addressing a common postpartum cosmetic concern: whether facial exercises can effectively banish a double chin that developed after childbirth, or if invasive interventions like plastic surgery or Botox are the only true options. Her response is direct and uncompromising: "facial exercises are not going to get rid of a double chin." She explains that fullness under the chin is driven by submental adipose tissue. While some individuals can decrease this fat through overall weight loss and lifestyle management, genetics and individual anatomy play a decisive role. Many people naturally accumulate stubborn fat deposits under the jawline, meaning that even if they diet, exercise, and lean out everywhere else, they still retain prominent submental fat.

When genetics keep that tissue in place, non-invasive exercises remain useless, leaving cosmetic interventions as the only clinically proven pathways. Dr. Dray highlights established dermatological procedures, such as deoxycholic acid injections (widely known under the brand name Kybella), cryolipolysis (fat freezing), and surgical liposuction.

She also dismantles the enduring fitness myth of targeted fat loss. Just as countless crunches will not selectively burn visceral or subcutaneous abdominal fat, grimacing or working facial muscles will not selectively melt away neck fat. Weight loss occurs systemically rather than locally. She notes the frustrating reality many people face when trying to diet down: fat often vanishes fastest from areas where they want to retain fullness, such as the face, while stubborn pockets persist.

- **Non-Surgical & Surgical Alternatives for Submental Fat:** - Deoxycholic acid injections (Kybella) to chemically break down fat cells. - Cryolipolysis to freeze and eliminate localized adipose tissue. - Surgical submental liposuction for mechanical fat removal. - **Key Takeaway on Spot Reduction:** Fat distribution and loss patterns are biologically and genetically predetermined; working specific localized muscle groups has zero correlation with localized fat mobilization.

---

[01:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=92s) Efficacy and Practical Uses of Powder Sunscreens

When asked to review powder sunscreens, Dr. Dray cautions against using them as primary photoprotection. She categorizes powder sunscreens as "very unreliable" when relied upon for standalone UV defense. The primary issue stems from physics and dosing: achieving the labeled SPF value requires a standardized density of two milligrams of product per square centimeter of skin. With powders, it is virtually impossible to deposit an even, contiguous, and sufficiently thick film across the face without caking on an absurd, impractical amount of powder.

Despite their inadequacy as standalone sunscreens, Dr. Dray does not write them off entirely; she finds immense value in using them as functional cosmetic adjuncts. In her own routine, she utilizes SPF powder primarily for "camouflaging the shine" and mattifying the heavy, greasy residue left behind by emollient chemical or mineral liquid sunscreens.

Beyond cosmetic de-shining, she notes that dusting powder acts much like a makeup setting powder, physically locking the underlying liquid sunscreen in place. This technique proves especially handy around the forehead to prevent sunscreen from migrating, sweating off, and burning the eyes during warm weather.

---

[02:27](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=147s) Spironolactone: Topical Side Effects and Potassium Monitoring

Turning to prescription dermatological therapies, Dr. Dray fields a pair of targeted questions regarding the anti-androgen medication spironolactone. First, addressing whether topical spironolactone can trigger breast tenderness, she confirms that while formal clinical literature on topical spironolactone remains relatively sparse, breast tenderness has indeed been observed in clinical practice. Because topical formulations still carry a slight risk of low-level systemic absorption, side effects can happen, although they occur at a significantly lower frequency compared to the oral route.

She then tackles the enduring clinical question of laboratory monitoring: do patients taking oral spironolactone need routine, periodic blood draws to monitor potassium levels? For an otherwise healthy individual, the short answer is no. While dermatologists routinely ordered frequent potassium panels in past decades out of concern for spironolactone's potassium-sparing diuretic effects, modern clinical studies have consistently demonstrated that routine monitoring is unnecessary in young, healthy populations with normal baseline kidney function and no concurrent potassium-elevating medications.

---

[02:57](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=177s) CeraVe Healing Ointment Reformulation Breakdown

Responding to curiosity surrounding the "new and improved" packaging for CeraVe Healing Ointment, Dr. Dray details the formula tweaks made by the manufacturer. The core occlusive engine remains petrolatum, but its overall concentration was bumped up slightly from roughly 46.5% in the legacy version to 49.5% in the revised formula.

She rattles off the specific additions and deletions that constitute the rest of the reformulation, pointing out several newly incorporated humectants, emollient waxes, and preservatives, alongside ingredients that were phased out:

---

[03:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=205s) Retinoid Tolerance vs. Copper Peptide Irritation

Dr. Dray reads an inquiry from a follower whose skin handles high-strength prescription retinoids (tretinoin 0.1%) without issue, yet inexplicably becomes dry, flaky, and irritated when applying copper peptides. Dr. Dray completely validates this confusing paradox, confessing that she recently had the exact same frustrating reaction while testing the Remedy copper peptide serum: "I have no explanations here because, you know, a lot of people will say that."

Having previously used other copper peptide products without experiencing flaking, and maintaining excellent tolerance to prescription topical tretinoin herself, Dr. Dray suspects the culprit is rarely the copper peptide molecule in isolation. Instead, unexplained irritation of this nature almost always stems from the overall formulation architecture—such as penetration enhancers, preservatives, solvents, or secondary active ingredients within that specific brand's vehicle.

---

[04:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=240s) UV-Blocking Umbrellas and Diffuse Radiation

Analyzing the real-world utility of sun umbrellas, Dr. Dray clarifies what they can and cannot accomplish. A dedicated, lab-tested UV umbrella does indeed offer exceptional direct shielding, blocking upwards of 99% of overhead ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, specialized sun umbrellas often incorporate specialized heat-blocking fabric treatments that actively reflect infrared energy to keep the user cool underneath—a feature standard dark rain umbrellas lack. While standard dark rain umbrellas (such as a basic black umbrella picked up at a gas station) can physically block a respectable 70% to 90% of UV rays, they absorb radiant heat rapidly, turning the canopy into a sweltering heat trap. Clear plastic rain umbrellas, conversely, offer almost no UV defense.

However, Dr. Dray emphasizes the critical limitation of any overhead canopy: umbrellas do not provide comprehensive protection because they do not account for diffuse and scattered UV radiation. Sun rays bounce off surrounding environmental surfaces—such as concrete sidewalks, sand, and water—and strike the skin from the sides and below. As a result, an individual can easily sustain a sunburn while sitting directly beneath an umbrella if they do not wear broad-spectrum sunscreen and UPF-rated protective clothing.

```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: UV Radiation Exposure Under an Umbrella accDescr: Diagram illustrating direct overhead UV radiation being blocked by an umbrella while diffuse scattered UV reflects from ground surfaces onto the skin.

subgraph Sun["Solar Radiation Source"] UV["Incoming UV & Infrared Radiation"] end

subgraph Canopy["Dedicated UV Umbrella Canopy"] Direct["Direct Overhead UV (99% Blocked)"] HeatCoat["Heat-Reflective Coating (Reduces Trapped Heat)"] end

subgraph Environment["Ground & Surrounding Surfaces"] Surfaces["Pavement, Sand, Water, Concrete"] Reflected["Scattered / Diffuse UV Rays"] end

subgraph ExposedSkin["Skin Surface"] Skin["Face & Body (Requires Sunscreen & UPF Clothing)"] end

UV --> Direct UV --> HeatCoat UV --> Surfaces Surfaces --> Reflected Reflected -->|"Reflects upward & sideways"| Skin Direct -.->|"Blocked from overhead"| Skin ```

---

[05:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=318s) Methyloxetanecarbamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol (KT-939) for Hyperpigmentation

Dr. Dray takes a close look at an emerging cosmetic ingredient being investigated for uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation: methyloxetanecarbamido thiazolyl resorcinol, commonly referenced by its developmental code KT-939. She categorizes it as a novel resorcinol derivative designed to inhibit tyrosinase, the foundational rate-limiting enzyme responsible for skin melanin synthesis.

To give viewers a familiar benchmark, Dr. Dray likens KT-939 to Thiamidol (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol)—the patented tyrosinase inhibitor popularized by Eucerin in their anti-pigment line. She characterizes KT-939 as essentially another chemical sibling in that same functional resorcinol family.

Evaluating the current scientific backing, she notes that the data is largely preliminary. Early in vitro bench research on cultured cells in Petri dishes suggests KT-939 might exhibit even higher inhibitory potency than Thiamidol. However, robust in vivo clinical trials are scarce. While early human testing indicates the ingredient is cosmetically well-tolerated and visually improves skin discoloration, there are currently no robust head-to-head clinical trials pitting KT-939 directly against Thiamidol. Given the early stage of the science, Dr. Dray advises against rushing out to spend premium prices on products boasting the ingredient until more clinical data emerges.

---

[06:21](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=381s) Scripting Notes Mishaps and Video Wrap-Up

Wrapping up the session, Dr. Dray shares a humorous, self-deprecating behind-the-scenes tangent about her recording workflow. She explains that she collects viewer questions and scripts out detailed reference notes inside her phone's Notes app beforehand to avoid the agony of editing video footage and realizing she missed critical context that viewers will subsequently ask about.

Despite leaning on this system for several years to keep her thoughts structured, technology still trips her up: while filming, her Notes app abruptly jumped across the screen, unexpectedly bringing her prepared answer list to an end. Laughing off the glitch, she draws the weekend Q&A to a close, encouraging viewers to like, share, subscribe, and offering her signature parting reminder: "don't forget sunscreen."

## Notable quotes > [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) facial exercises are not going to get rid of a double chin. — Dr Dray

> [00:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=8s) Weight loss occurs systemically rather than locally. — Dr Dray

> [01:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=92s) very unreliable — Dr Dray

> [01:32](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=92s) camouflaging the shine — Dr Dray

> [02:41](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=161s) For an otherwise healthy individual, the short answer is no. — Dr Dray

> [02:57](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=177s) new and improved

> [03:25](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=205s) I have no explanations here because, you know, a lot of people will say that. — Dr Dray

> [04:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=240s) umbrellas do not provide comprehensive protection because they do not account for diffuse and scattered UV radiation. — Dr Dray

> [05:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=318s) there are currently no robust head-to-head clinical trials pitting KT-939 directly against Thiamidol. — Dr Dray

> [06:21](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A&t=381s) don't forget sunscreen. — Dr Dray

## Mentioned Dr Dray, Kybella, Botox, Spironolactone, CeraVe, CeraVe Healing Ointment, Tretinoin, Remedy, Remedy copper peptide serum, Eucerin, Thiamidol, Methyloxetanecarbamido thiazolyl resorcinol (KT-939), Petrolatum, Notes app

## Video description Dermatologist Dr. Dray answers skincare questions from her followers in this Q&A video, covering double chin treatments, powder sunscreen, spironolactone side effects, tretinoin and copper peptides, UV-blocking umbrellas, and a new ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation.

Can facial exercises reduce a double chin? Are powder sunscreens effective enough to protect your skin from UV radiation? Dr. Dray discusses treatment options for submental fat, explains the limitations of powder sunscreens, and answers questions about breast tenderness with topical spironolactone and potassium monitoring with oral spironolactone.

She also shares her experience with copper peptide serums, explains how UV-blocking umbrellas can help protect your skin from the sun, and reviews the emerging evidence for methyloxetanecarbamido thiazolyl resorcinol (KT-939), a topical ingredient being investigated for skin brightening and hyperpigmentation.

Watch for evidence-based skincare advice from a dermatologist, practical sun protection tips, and insights into ingredients and treatments for common skin concerns.

TIMESTAMPS

0:00 Intro 0:08 Can Facial Exercises Reduce a Double Chin? 1:32 Are Powder Sunscreens Effective for Sun Protection? 2:27 Can Topical Spironolactone Cause Breast Tenderness? 2:41 Do You Need Regular Potassium Testing With Oral Spironolactone? 3:25 Why Can Copper Peptides Cause Dryness When Tretinoin Doesn't? 4:00 Do UV-Blocking Umbrellas Protect Your Skin From the Sun? 5:18 Methyloxetanecarbamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol (KT-939) for Hyperpigmentation 6:51 Outro

#DrDray #Dermatologist #SkincareQandA #SkincareTips #DoubleChin #PowderSunscreen #Spironolactone #Tretinoin #CopperPeptides #SunProtection #UVProtection #Hyperpigmentation #SkinBrightening #KT939 #skincareingredients

FTC: This video is not sponsored. Links are commissionable, meaning I may earn commission from purchases made through links.

💜Shop my Amazon store https://o.bttn.io/0BwiPWFIZLG 💜Follow me on liketoknowit https://www.liketoknow.it/drdrayzday 💜Social media Instagram @drdrayzday Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/drdrayzday/ Facebook @DrDrayzDay Twitter: @drdrayzday Tiktok: @drdrayzday

Disclaimer: This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this Youtube channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this Youtube channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.

[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bB4rw_Wy2A)

中文简报

Dr Dray警告：防晒散粉无法作为独立的紫外线防护手段散粉配方无法达到标称SPF值所需的涂抹密度，其实际用途仅限于为液体防晒定妆及吸除面部油光。 Dr. Dray破除了面部运动可以消除双下巴的迷思，阐明颏下脂肪受遗传影响，需要针对性的临床治疗手段或全身减脂。她解释称，散粉防晒由于涂抹密度的限制，不足以单独提供防晒保护，但很适合作为控油散粉辅助液体防晒定妆。在谈及皮肤科药物和外用产品时，她指出肾功能正常的健康患者口服螺内酯无需常规监测血钾，详细说明了CeraVe Healing Ointment近期的配方调整，并将蓝铜胜肽引起的刺激归因于整体配方基质而非该分子本身。最后，她从物理学角度分析了防紫外线伞，指出地面漫反射辐射仍要求涂抹防晒霜，并探讨了新型酪氨酸酶抑制剂KT-939的初步研究。面部运动无法消除双下巴，因为生理学上不可能实现局部减脂，脱氧胆酸注射、冷冻溶脂或吸脂等临床医疗手段是目前唯一经证实有效的解决方案。 (0:08) 防晒散粉无法作为可靠的独立光防护手段，因为实际上难以达到2 mg/cm²的涂抹密度要求，但可以有效用作控油散粉辅助液体防晒定妆。 (1:32) 对于肾功能正常的年轻健康患者，口服螺内酯时不再被认为需要进行常规血钾监测。 (2:41) 专用防紫外线伞可阻挡99%来自头顶的直射辐射，但混凝土、沙滩和水面等反射的漫反射紫外线仍可能导致使用者晒伤。 (4:00)

Reading summary

Dermatologist Dr Dray addresses common skincare misconceptions and practices, cautioning that powder sunscreens cannot replace primary liquid sunscreens and clarifying the realities behind localized fat loss and topical ingredient reactions. Limitations and Practical Uses of Powder Sunscreens (1:32) Dr Dray characterizes powder sunscreens as very unreliable for standalone photoprotection. Because labeled SPF values require a standard density of two milligrams of product per square centimeter, depositing an even, continuous, and sufficiently thick film across the skin using powder requires an impractically heavy, cakey application. Consequently, powders should not serve as a primary defense against ultraviolet radiation. Powders remain useful as cosmetic adjuncts rather than sole protectors. In practice, Dr Dray uses them to mattify greasy residues left behind by emollient chemical or mineral liquid sunscreens. Applied like setting powder, they also help physically secure underlying liquid sunscreen, particularly on the forehead to prevent migration, sweat-off, and eye stinging in hot conditions. Sun Umbrellas and Diffuse Radiation (4:00) Dedicated, lab-tested UV umbrellas provide direct overhead protection by blocking over 99% of UV radiation, often incorporating reflective coatings to limit trapped infrared heat. Standard dark rain umbrellas offer a respectable 70% to 90% UV blockage but absorb radiant heat quickly, whereas clear plastic models offer minimal protection. Regardless of canopy quality, Dr Dray emphasizes that umbrellas cannot offer total protection due to diffuse and scattered UV rays bouncing off surrounding surfaces like pavement, concrete, sand, and water. Because reflected radiation strikes the body from the side and underneath, sunburns remain possible under an umbrella unless supplemented by broad-spectrum sunscreen and UPF-rated clothing. Myths of Targeted Submental Fat Reduction (0:08) Addressing concerns regarding postpartum double chins, Dr Dray states that facial exercises cannot eliminate submental fullness. Adipose tissue distribution is governed biologically and genetically, meaning that working localized muscle groups does not trigger localized fat mobilization. Weight loss occurs systemically, often reducing volume in desirable facial areas while stubborn genetic deposits persist under the jawline. For persistent submental fat resistant to general weight management, clinically proven interventions are limited to dermatological and surgical procedures. Established options include deoxycholic acid injections (Kybella) to chemically destroy fat cells, cryolipolysis to freeze adipose tissue, and surgical submental liposuction for direct removal. Clarifications on Dermatological Formulations and Medications (2:27) Regarding spironolactone, Dr Dray notes that while clinical literature on topical formulations is limited, mild systemic absorption can occasionally cause breast tenderness in clinical practice, though at lower rates than oral delivery. Conversely, for oral spironolactone, she notes that routine potassium blood monitoring is no longer considered necessary for young, healthy patients lacking baseline renal issues or interacting medications. Addressing product tolerance, Dr Dray explains that irritation from copper peptide serums—even in patients accustomed to prescription tretinoin 0.1%—is usually driven by the formulation's vehicle, solvents, preservatives, or penetration enhancers rather than the peptide itself. Additionally, reviewing the updated CeraVe Healing Ointment, she highlights that petrolatum was increased from approximately 46.5% to 49.5%, with newly added ingredients such as glycerin, synthetic and microcrystalline waxes, and hyaluronic acid replacing removed components like dimethicone, ozokerite, and phenoxyethanol. Evaluating Emerging Hyperpigmentation Actives (5:18) Dr Dray evaluates methyloxetanecarbamido thiazolyl resorcinol (KT-939), an emerging resorcinol derivative targeting the tyrosinase enzyme to inhibit melanin synthesis. Functioning as a chemical relative of Thiamidol (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol), early in vitro cell studies suggest it may exhibit greater inhibitory potency. However, human clinical evidence remains in its infancy. While preliminary testing suggests KT-939 is well-tolerated and visually lightens hyperpigmentation, there are no robust head-to-head clinical trials directly comparing it to established ingredients like Thiamidol. Dr Dray advises against paying premium prices for products featuring the active until more rigorous clinical validation is published. Dr Dray highlights that effective skincare relies on understanding formulation limits, physiological constraints, and clinical evidence rather than marketing claims, whether assessing novel pigment inhibitors or the physical realities of sun protection.

Source quotes

[0:08] Dr Dray: facial exercises are not going to get rid of a double chin. [0:08] Dr Dray: Weight loss occurs systemically rather than locally. [1:32] Dr Dray: very unreliable [1:32] Dr Dray: camouflaging the shine [2:41] Dr Dray: For an otherwise healthy individual, the short answer is no. [2:57] new and improved [3:25] Dr Dray: I have no explanations here because, you know, a lot of people will say that. [4:00] Dr Dray: umbrellas do not provide comprehensive protection because they do not account for diffuse and scattered UV radiation. [5:18] Dr Dray: there are currently no robust head-to-head clinical trials pitting KT-939 directly against Thiamidol. [6:21] Dr Dray: don't forget sunscreen.

Original transcript

[0:00] Well, hey guys. Welcome back to another [0:02] skin care Q&A. Picking up where we left [0:05] off in yesterday's skin care Q&A. Do any [0:08] of those exercises really help with a [0:10] double chin? I formed one after I gave [0:13] birth or could I only treat that with [0:15] plastic surgery, Botox, or something [0:17] like that? Exercise facial exercises are [0:20] not going to get rid of a double chin. [0:21] Submental fat, some people, you know, [0:24] they're able to reduce that through [0:26] weight management, but some people just [0:27] genetically, you know, their makeup, [0:29] their body type, or whatever, they store [0:31] a lot more and for whatever reason they [0:33] they store fat there, okay? And so, they [0:36] lose weight and they you know, they [0:37] still have prominent submental adipose [0:39] tissue. And that's going to be cosmetic [0:42] procedures. So, deoxycholic acid [0:45] injections, aka Kybella. There's [0:46] cryolipolysis. You can also have [0:49] liposuction as well, surgical [0:51] liposuction. But yeah, I mean, [0:53] exercising there is not going to spot [0:55] reduce. First of all, I mean, you can't [0:57] spot reduce fat anywhere. You can't just [1:00] work out your abs and lose the fat just [1:02] in your abs, right? It tends to be you [1:06] know, you need to do exercise and you [1:08] lose fat everywhere, but some people [1:10] lose fat more quickly from certain [1:12] areas, but you can't like target a a [1:14] specific area where you've got excess [1:17] body fat and and and get rid of the fat [1:18] there. Like some people, you know, [1:20] they'll have excess body fat, they lose [1:22] weight, and they lose it fastest in [1:23] their face and they're like, [1:25] "I just want to get rid of this one, you [1:27] know, problem this one area that bothers [1:29] me and now I'm losing it in my face [1:31] where I didn't want to." Can you review [1:33] powder sunscreens? I have. So, powder [1:35] sunscreens are very [1:37] unreliable as far as sunscreen coverage [1:40] because they don't put down like a even [1:43] consistent layer. You actually need to [1:45] use a ton of powder to get the milligram [1:48] per centimeter squared dose amount [1:50] needed to achieve the SPF. So, I don't [1:52] recommend ever relying on an SPF powder [1:55] alone, but they are really good for [1:57] camouflaging the shine for mattifying [1:59] the shine of a sunscreen. Um, that's how [2:01] I use them. Um, and I also use them they [2:04] kind of help the sunscreen stay in place [2:06] a little bit better, I have found. I [2:08] don't know, you know, kind of like a [2:09] setting is to set the sunscreen a bit. I [2:11] don't know if that was all in my head, [2:13] but if you find that you have a problem [2:14] with sunscreen running into your eyes, [2:16] you might try that like if it's you [2:18] know, if it's coming from your forehead [2:19] for example, and it's real shiny when [2:21] you first put it on there, you might try [2:23] that, but I wouldn't rely on it a [2:25] sunscreen powder for sunscreen. Can [2:27] topical spironolactone cause breast [2:29] tenderness? Yes, that that has been [2:32] observed um, clinically. We don't have a [2:34] lot of studies on topical [2:35] spironolactone. That being said, it's [2:38] it's much less likely in comparison to [2:40] oral, but it could still happen. Do you [2:42] have to check potassium regularly when [2:45] you're taking um, spironolactone? Uh, if [2:48] you're otherwise healthy, no. So, in the [2:49] past um, regular potassium checks were [2:52] kind of done. Studies have now shown [2:54] that that's not necessary. What is new [2:57] and improved about CeraVe healing [2:59] ointment? It's got a little bit more [3:01] petrolatum in it. I think it was like 40 [3:03] What did I put down? 46.5 before, now [3:06] it's 49.5. And then they also added some [3:08] things. They added uh, I believe [3:10] glycerin, microcrystalline wax, [3:12] synthetic wax, triethyl citrate, sodium [3:15] hyaluronate, caprylyl glycol, and [3:17] benzoic acid. Uh, they removed [3:20] ozokerite, dimethicone, proline, [3:22] phenoxyethanol, pantolactone, which is [3:25] panthenol. Doesn't make sense that my [3:26] skin can tolerate a very good very good [3:29] retinoid 0.1. I'm not sure what that [3:31] says it says maybe a tretinoin and I [3:33] just have a typo there like auto correct [3:35] did me wrong, I don't know. But copper [3:36] peptides makes it dry and flaky. You [3:38] know, I personally have had this exact [3:40] experience very recently with the remedy [3:42] copper peptide serum and I I have no [3:45] explanations here because you know, a [3:47] lot of people will say that. I've used [3:48] other copper peptide serums before and [3:50] never had that problem. I don't have any [3:52] with topical tretinoin, but um I have [3:54] heard that of the same thing happening [3:56] to people. It may be some formulation [3:58] thing rather than the copper peptide [4:00] itself, though. Does my UV umbrella [4:02] really protect my skin? Yes, a dedicated [4:04] UV umbrella will protect your skin by [4:06] blocking 99% of UV radiation, but it [4:09] does not give you comprehensive [4:11] protection in that it can't um you know, [4:13] it doesn't block rays that are scattered [4:15] up off of surfaces. So, you can still [4:17] burn under an umbrella. A lot of people [4:19] don't realize this. Um now, a regular [4:21] clear plastic umbrella only a clear [4:23] plastic's not going to block much, but a [4:25] regular rain umbrella meant to keep you [4:27] dry, it'll block a good amount of UV for [4:29] sure, like 70 70 to 90%. Like you go [4:32] into the the gas station, for example, [4:34] and you get a little cheap umbrella, [4:35] that'll give you some protection for [4:37] sure that's black, you know, a black [4:38] umbrella um for sure. But the actual UV [4:41] blocking umbrella, the material, you [4:43] know, it's gone through a lab test to [4:44] confirm that it truly effectively blocks [4:47] 99% of UV coming through. And oftentimes [4:50] these UV umbrellas, they also have some [4:52] sort of heat blocking um application as [4:54] well to keep you cool under there [4:56] because like I said, the black is pretty [4:57] good, but it gets really hot, you know [4:59] what I mean? What's important to know is [5:01] you you still need to wear sunscreen and [5:03] sun protective clothing because you get [5:06] sunlight coming up off of like [5:07] sidewalks, sand, water, um and you know, [5:10] on a bright day, it's going to come in [5:12] from all sides, but it does reduce quite [5:14] a bit, like the overhead um for sure, [5:17] like on your face, definitely. What are [5:19] your thoughts on methoxeton [5:22] carbamido [5:26] So, that's KT939. [5:28] All right, this is a cosmetic [5:29] ingredient, a resorcinol derivative. [5:31] Resorcinol derivatives are really [5:33] common, and they work by inhibiting the [5:35] enzyme tyrosinase, so they're pursued [5:37] for hyperpigmentation. You may have [5:39] heard about thiamidol, which is in like [5:42] the Eucerin anti-pigment serums I've [5:44] reviewed here before. So, this is kind [5:46] of like another variant of Thiamidol, if [5:48] you will. Most of the the clinical [5:50] research on it is is small. It it's [5:54] mostly in vitro stuff showing, yeah, it [5:56] does reduce pigmentation by inhibiting [5:59] tyrosinase. The in vitro stuff, meaning [6:01] cells in a dish, suggests that it may be [6:03] more potent than Thiamidol, but we don't [6:05] have clinical studies comparing it to [6:07] Thiamidol. We do have a clinical study [6:09] showing that it is helpful for [6:11] discoloration, uneven skin tone, and [6:13] well tolerated, but that's about it. Um [6:15] so, promising, but the research is still [6:17] very preliminary. So, I wouldn't I [6:19] wouldn't go spending big bucks just yet. [6:21] I hate it when I do this. I have this [6:23] long list here on the notes app of every [6:25] single question you guys asked, and I [6:26] write out answers so I don't forget [6:28] anything cuz the most annoying thing is [6:30] when I film YouTube videos and then I go [6:32] to editing and I'm like, "Oh, I forgot [6:34] to say this, and people are going to ask [6:36] about it now." So, I started taking [6:38] notes a couple of years ago and writing [6:40] writing everything out beforehand, and [6:42] it's helped quite a bit, but sometimes I [6:44] still forget. I still skip over stuff, [6:46] but then like I'm on this notes app, and [6:48] what do you know, the next thing you [6:49] know, it jumps up in the air, and that's [6:51] the end of that. All right, guys, that [6:53] wraps up another weekend Q&A. But, thank [6:56] you so much. If you enjoyed today's [6:57] video, give it a thumbs up, share it [6:59] with your friends, and as always, don't [7:00] forget sunscreen and subscribe. I'll [7:02] talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye. [7:24] >> [music]