c90adventures
Western governments and media intentionally demonize Iran to condition public support for foreign military intervention, obscuring pervasive grassroots hospitality.
AI-assisted summary of Riding through Iran on a small motorcycle as British person. — original source. Check the original for full context.
Source published:
Key ideas
- Riding overland on a Honda C90 from Malaysia to the UK, Ed March entered Iran via ferry from the Persian Gulf, directly challenging mainstream Western travel warnings and media portrayals. (0:01)
- Everyday Iranian hospitality repeatedly defied expectations, with locals refusing payment for meals and petrol, handing fresh fruit to moving vehicles, and offering tea at police checkpoints. (3:42)
- March argues that lightweight, low-displacement bikes like the C90 outmatch heavy adventure tourers such as the BMW GS in dense urban traffic, maneuverability, and field recovery. (10:26)
- Concluding his transit toward the Turkish border, March declared Iran his favorite destination of the journey, calling it the friendliest and safest country to find oneself stranded without resources. (16:15)
Detailed notes
## Background Published on YouTube by c90adventures on June 5, 2012, this video documents rider Ed March traveling across Iran on a Honda C90 during an overland journey from Malaysia to the UK. The channel's description notes that the update aims to showcase how awesome the country truly is, encouraging viewers not to avoid it based on newspaper and government warnings.
## TL;DR Embarking on the journey with deep apprehension due to negative Western portrayals, Ed crosses into Iran and discovers an astonishing standard of generosity and warmth from nearly everyone he encounters. Riding his small Honda C90 alongside German companions and later solo, he receives free meals, tea, fruit, motorcycle fuel, and endless gifts from strangers, while marveling at cultural treasures like Persepolis and vibrant desert-to-mountain landscapes. Along the way, he humorously champions the virtues of lightweight commuter bikes over expensive adventure motorcycles like the BMW GS, especially when navigating dense traffic. As he approaches the Turkish border, he concludes that Iran is the friendliest country on earth, starkly contrasting lived reality with geopolitical media propaganda.
## Atmosphere & style The presentation carries a charmingly irreverent, self-deprecating British humor blended with earnest, wide-eyed wonder. It feels like an intimate, gritty home movie made by an adventurous mate who relies on slapstick wit—such as setting up a folding drum kit on a mountain roadside or deadpan cutaways—to ground the awe of his encounters. What begins with lingering dread swiftly transforms into an affectionate, joyous celebration of human kindness, leaving the viewer with an overwhelming sense of warmth, relief, and infectious wanderlust.
## Bulletin - [00:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=1s) Riding overland on a Honda C90 from Malaysia to the UK, Ed March entered Iran via ferry from the Persian Gulf, directly challenging mainstream Western travel warnings and media portrayals. - [03:42](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=222s) Everyday Iranian hospitality repeatedly defied expectations, with locals refusing payment for meals and petrol, handing fresh fruit to moving vehicles, and offering tea at police checkpoints. - [10:26](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=626s) March argues that lightweight, low-displacement bikes like the C90 outmatch heavy adventure tourers such as the BMW GS in dense urban traffic, maneuverability, and field recovery. - [16:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=975s) Concluding his transit toward the Turkish border, March declared Iran his favorite destination of the journey, calling it the friendliest and safest country to find oneself stranded without resources.
## Key takeaways - [00:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=1s) A stark divide existed between non-travelers who viewed Iran as hostile and experienced overlanders who universally praised it as safe and welcoming. - [00:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=45s) Navigating initial language barriers required nonverbal methods such as hand-drawn sketches to communicate with local taxi drivers. - [01:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=90s) Local motorcyclists routinely formed welcoming escorts to practice English and show off street riding stunts alongside arriving travelers. - [02:16](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=136s) Roadside fuel in rural areas was often dispensed from plastic containers at small shacks rather than formal petrol stations. - [03:42](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=222s) Spontaneous hospitality frequently resulted in hosts refusing payment for food, drinks, and motorcycle fuel provided to travelers. - [05:34](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=334s) Persepolis left a profound impression on March, surpassing major European monuments like Stonehenge in masonry detail and architectural grandeur. - [07:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=428s) Urban Iranian bazaars and boutique windows revealed striking contrasts between public dress codes and private, vibrant fashion choices. - [08:30](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=510s) Polite street culture was exemplified by local motorists pausing and waiting patiently to avoid ruining outdoor video shots. - [09:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=558s) Iran's domestic motorcycle fleet relies overwhelmingly on Honda C100 and CG125 clones, making spare parts widely available and cheap. - [10:26](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=626s) Spontaneous kindness extended to open highways, including a transport lorry driver handing an orange directly to March at cruising speed. - [14:19](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=859s) Lightweight commuter bikes proved superior to oversized adventure tourers when filtering through gridlocked traffic or maneuvering tight doorways. - [14:19](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=859s) The sole unfriendly interaction during the entire trip was with a foreign tourist on a BMW adventure bike rather than an Iranian local. - [16:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=975s) Military and police checkpoint officers regularly transformed routine passport checks into relaxed social visits involving hot tea and cigarettes. - [16:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=975s) March compared the warmth of the Iranian population to an attentive grandmother constantly fussing over a guest's comfort and well-being. - [17:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=1020s) March criticized Western media narratives, alleging they deliberately demonize Iranian society to lessen public resistance to geopolitical conflicts.
## Detailed walkthrough ### [00:01](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=1s) Preconceptions and Arriving by Sea
Iran was the destination that inspired the greatest dread before the journey began, purely because of the stark divide between those who had visited and those who had not. While mainstream media coverage and people who had never set foot in the country painted it as hostile and dangerous, every single traveler who had actually been there insisted it was wonderful. Deciding to lean into risk, the journey pushed forward across the Persian Gulf to document the reality without prejudice. As the author notes: “Iran was the country I was most apprehensive about before getting there because everybody who hadn't been there said it was bad and everybody who had been there said it was good so I didn't know who to believe so I decided that the risk-taking part of me said okay we'll go through there see what happens and hopefully we'll make it out the other end um and this is my attempt at showing you guys what it was like you know it's factual it's unbiased and if a country is bad then I will show it as being bad.”
The arrival happened by ferry, accompanied by two German motorcyclists riding Suzuki DR350s all the way from Dubai back to Germany. The language barrier became an immediate hurdle, as local taxi drivers spoke no English whatsoever, forcing the travelers to communicate through quick hand-drawn sketches to navigate back to the ferry port. In exchange for translating broken English, the German riders let him crash on their hotel room floor for free. Stepping out onto the street, the travelers were greeted by friendly crowds eager to chat and practice English, with local youths quickly assembling miniature motorcycle posses to show off wheelies, burnouts, and street-stunt prowess alongside the travelers.
- **Companions:** Two German riders traveling overland from Dubai to Germany on Suzuki DR350s. - **Communication:** Navigating towns and taxi rides through hand-drawn sketches due to the absence of English-speaking drivers. - **Reception:** Instant, impromptu welcoming committees of local motorcyclists performing riding tricks in the street.
---
[02:16](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=136s) Entering the Desert, Roadside Fuel, and Unexpected Red Bull
Leaving the coastal settlements behind, the ride pushed out into the vast Iranian desert, winding through isolated desert settlements for two hours before encountering the first taste of local generosity. While stopping to grab an energy drink, the German companions were suddenly gifted a massive haul of fresh fruit by a friendly roadside vendor who wanted nothing in return. From there, the barren sandscapes gradually gave way to rugged mountain ranges, surprisingly linked by immaculate, velvety tarmac roads that defied expectations.
Fuel stops along these rural stretches were reminiscent of rural Cambodia, where riders had to pull up to simple roadside shacks to see if fuel was stored inside plastic containers. As the route wound further north, arid slopes transformed into lush, rolling green hillsides. Despite extensive international trade embargoes and strict economic sanctions, global commerce still found a way: one dusty shack far out in the countryside was somehow fully stocked with English-imported Red Bull, complete with a mystery red-flavored can suspected to be strawberry.
```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Roadside Encounters Across Iran accDescr: Flowchart illustrating the recurring hospitality and generous encounters during the motorcycle journey across Iran.
subgraph Route["Desert to Mountains"] A["Arrive via Persian Gulf Ferry"] --> B["Ride into Arid Desert & Mountains"] B --> C["Roadside Huts for Bottle Fuel"] end
subgraph Encounters["Everyday Hospitality"] C --> D["Invited into Hut for Lunch"] D --> E["Offered Doogh, Food & Cigarettes"] E --> F["Host Refuses Payment for Gas & Meal"] end
subgraph EncountersOnTheRoad["Highway Interactions"] F --> G["Lorry Driver Hands Orange at Speed"] G --> H["Motorcyclists & Drivers Waving Daily"] H --> I["Reaching Persepolis & Ancient Ruins"] end ```
---
[03:42](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=222s) Lunch with Strangers, Doogh, and Free Fuel
After replenishing the Honda C90's tank from a plastic container, the shack owners warmly beckoned the lone rider inside to share a spread laid out on the floor. With neither party speaking the other's language, the traveler had to navigate local dining customs through sheer observation and trial and error, fumbling to manage flatbread and side dishes using both hands. The meal was accompanied by coffee and a chilled white liquid resembling chicken soup, which was revealed to be *doogh* (a traditional yogurt-and-herb milk beverage).
At the end of the feast, rather than offering a single cigarette, the host extended a whole spread of cigarette brands to choose from. When it came time to settle up, the hosts flatly refused to take any money—not for the lunch, and not even for the petrol poured into the motorcycle. Departing under the first menacing raincloud seen in four months, the rider was astonished when, four hours down the road, he bumped right back into the same lunch companions, who immediately stopped to hand him a fresh cup of hot tea. The day's riding also offered an odd roadside encounter with giant desert ants measuring an inch long, earning an impromptu nature spotlight titled "Wildlife on One Cylinder."
> “And they wouldn't take any money from me at all and that included the petrol so me and 90 said our thank you and goodbyes and we headed off and saw our first raincloud for 4 months and I wasn't too happy about it.” — *Ed March*
---
[05:34](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=334s) Persepolis, Overwhelming Kindness, and Free Souvenirs
A major cultural detour led straight to the ancient ceremonial capital of Persepolis. Admiring the colossal monuments, intricately carved reliefs, and cliffside royal tombs carved directly out of solid bedrock, the historical masonry left a far deeper impression than European counterparts like Stonehenge. Even for someone who typically avoids standard tourist sightseeing, the breathtaking precision of the ancient stonework proved undeniable.
Every stop produced warm, spontaneous human connections. A local passerby engaged him with earnest, openhearted praise, declaring: “I hope you return to England safely... You are clear, happy, and relaxed, and really kind. You are a kind and affectionate human.” The surrounding countryside frequently mirrored the rolling vistas of the south of France. Not a day passed without a free gift: after a meal at a roadside diner, the owner simply gifted him a pen because he had none. Passing cars consistently honked, waved, and called out greetings, while the little Honda C90's single-cylinder engine began to develop an increasingly concerning, ominous rattle.
- **Historical Wonder:** Persepolis, featuring monumental stone arches, detailed bas-reliefs, and hillside royal tombs cut from solid rock. - **Local Sentiment:** Heartfelt roadside blessings from locals wishing safe travels back to Britain. - **Daily Giveaways:** Free fruit, hot tea, and even pens handed over by restaurant owners.
---
[07:08](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=428s) City Encounters, Architecture, and Bazaar Wonders
Entering a major urban center provided a dose of lighthearted humor. Playing on the pun of seeking out attractive local sights in a society where women dress modestly, the camera panned deadpan to a working donkey grazing by the road, followed shortly by an encounter with a local man bearing an uncanny resemblance to Pierce Brosnan. The stream of roadside presents continued unabated, with locals gifting a new foot bag and fresh strawberries at a stoplight.
The urban environment revealed remarkable visual elegance. Soaring blue-tiled arches, cavernous vaulted bazaars, towering conical piles of colorful spices, and crystalline mounds of local sugar filled the sensory landscape. Modest exterior clothing regulations stood in stark contrast to the vivid, edgy styles sold inside women's boutique shop windows. The defining character of the country revealed itself in small, polite street moments: while filming alongside a road, an approaching local motorcyclist stopped and waited patiently off to the side just to avoid ruining the shot. As the narrator remarked: “What is about to happen is a moment that summed up Iran perfectly for me: I was filming something and somebody on a motorbike stopped to let me finish filming... You wouldn't get that in India.”
---
[09:18](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=558s) Iranian Motorcycles, Camels, and Music Video Drums
Iran's domestic motorcycle fleet consisted almost entirely of two distinct workhorses: Honda C100 step-through clones and Chinese-built copies of the classic Honda CG125. The Honda Cub design blended seamlessly into everyday traffic, to the point where the traveler's own loaded C90 was practically camouflaged whenever it was parked next to rows of local bikes. Between joyrides on camels and watching local youths pull off standing wheelies on tiny commuter bikes, there was constant motion.
The journey also served as a backdrop to capture final scenes for a spoof music video set to the tune of "Always on My Mind," dedicated entirely to the little Honda C90. A folding drum kit was set up beside a mountain highway for a fast-paced performance, with one of the German riders looking on in total confusion from the background. On the open road, the friendly curiosity never tapered off: passing drivers continuously pulled alongside to yell "English!" out the window, flashing broad smiles and thumbs-up signs.
> “And when I say everybody wants to talk to you and be friendly, I mean that... Even these guys had a smile.” — *Ed March*
---
[10:26](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=626s) The Flying Orange, Stereotype Buick, and Small-Bike Superiority
Highway interactions reached peak warmth when a large transport lorry pulled up alongside the moving C90. The driver blew his air horn, leaned out of the cab window, and handed a fresh orange directly across into the rider's gloved hand at cruising speed for no reason other than goodwill. The traveler was left peeling the fruit with one hand and his teeth while riding down the highway, grinning broadly with pure joy. Motorized oddities were everywhere, from commuter bikes piled perilously high with towering towers of plastic jugs to a vintage American Buick rolling through a service station. Driven by an Iranian man in white leather shoes and dark sunglasses, the car looked like it had driven straight out of an American foreign-office stereotype reel.
``` HONDA C90 vs. BMW R1200GS (Lightweight Touring Test) ┌─────────────────────────────────┬───────────┬──────────────────┐ │ Capability / Scenario │ Honda C90 │ Heavy Touring GS │ ├─────────────────────────────────┼───────────┼──────────────────┤ │ Squeeze through doorway with │ YES │ NO │ │ panniers attached │ │ │ ├─────────────────────────────────┼───────────┼──────────────────┤ │ Lift upright single-handed │ YES │ NO │ │ after falling over │ │ │ ├─────────────────────────────────┼───────────┼──────────────────┤ │ Peel & eat fruit handed from a │ YES │ Doubtful │ │ passing truck while riding │ │ │ └─────────────────────────────────┴───────────┴──────────────────┤ ```
After lending a simple screwdriver to an Iranian motorist stranded by the roadside with a loose coolant hose clamp, the trip paused to poke fun at oversized adventure motorcycles. Demonstrating that the featherweight C90 with loaded panniers could slip right through a standard doorway—and could be hauled upright effortlessly with one arm if dropped—the comparison highlighted the absurdity of massive adventure bikes like the BMW R1200GS. The segment wrapped up with the little bike climbing into a landscape of vibrant, multicolored layered hills, resembling childhood glass bottles packed with layers of decorative colored sand.
[13:36](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=816s) Off-Roading for the Perfect Shot and Vivid Northern Landscapes
Ed March explains his secret to capturing some of the most spectacular footage of his journey: taking his small Honda C90 off-road. Coaxing his small bike up steep, rugged dirt paths with a cheerful "come on, little beauty," he manages to reach vantage points that overlook vast, multi-colored landscapes.
As he travels further north through Iran, the colors of the terrain become increasingly vivid and striking. The clay and rock formations display brilliant, shifting hues that look almost artificial.
“That's where they got the idea from is from here, you can see all the different colors, and also here's a how-to on how I get some of the best available camera shots by off-roading.”
---
[14:19](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=859s) Tractor Tea and Filtering Past a Snobby BMW Rider
In Iran, hospitality is never far away, and Ed quickly finds himself invited for tea by a group of local workers after stopping to take photos of their tractors. However, his streak of meeting incredibly friendly locals is briefly interrupted by his first and only unfriendly encounter in the country—not with an Iranian, but with a fellow tourist. Ed pulls alongside a Polish rider on a massive, expensive BMW GS adventure motorcycle and waves to him in traveler solidarity. Instead of returning the greeting, the BMW rider looks down on Ed's tiny C90 and speeds off.
Ed decides to get his own back using the unique advantages of his small bike. When they hit heavy traffic, the bulky BMW GS gets stuck, while Ed easily filters through the tightest gaps on his nimble Honda C90. He repeatedly squeezes past the stranded traveler, looking increasingly smug, and eventually whips out his camera to film the defeated rider turning off the road.
“I pulled alongside and waved to him, you know, because we're both traveling, he just looked down on me and sped off, so thus I decided to get my own back.”
- **The Filtering Revenge:** Ed repeatedly filters past the BMW GS in heavy traffic, proving that a £3,000 adventure bike is no match for a Honda C90 in a traffic jam. - **Local Tractor Drivers:** Ed is invited for hot tea just for stopping to admire and photograph some local farm tractors.
---
[15:07](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=907s) Motorcycle Accessories, Theme Parks, and C90 Window Shopping
Ed points out the massive, highly impractical-looking windscreens that local Iranian riders fit to their motorcycles. Despite thinking they look incredibly uncool, Ed cannot resist buying one for himself for a mere £3, noting with amusement that the viewing window in the middle is made of actual glass. On his final day in Iran, a local named Behzad, his daughter Tina, and his brother-in-law take Ed out to an Iranian theme park. Ed jokes that the giant, airtight plastic water walking balls at the park are a brilliant tool for parents who want to silence their children, as they are left completely helpless floating on the water.
Before leaving, Ed does some "window shopping" at a local motorcycle shop packed to the brim with spare parts for small-displacement bikes. The shelves are stocked with clutches, carburetors, and crankshafts that would easily fit his C90. True to the spirit of Iranian hospitality, when Ed buys some basic engine oil from the shop, the shopkeeper hands him a free slice of cake as he is about to leave.
“During this update you might have seen these screens that Iranians fit their motorcycles and I think they look crap and really uncool, so I bought one and it cost me £3 and the window in the middle is actually glass.”
```mermaid flowchart TD accTitle: Ed's Final Day in Iran accDescr: A flowchart showing the sequence of events on Ed's final day in Iran, highlighting local hospitality and shopping. A["Buys £3 glass-window motorcycle screen"] --> B["Visits Iranian theme park with Behzad & family"] B --> C["Window shops for Honda C90 spare parts"] C --> D["Buys engine oil at local shop"] D --> E["Shopkeeper gives him free cake as a parting gift"] ```
---
[16:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=975s) The Road to Turkey: Why Iran is the Friendliest Country on Earth
As Ed rides toward the Turkish border, he reflects on his time in Iran, declaring it his absolute favorite country of the trip by far. He compares the relentless, overwhelming friendliness of the Iranian people to "your friend's Nan"—the kind of grandmother who constantly fusses over you, offering cake, tea, a comfortable seat, and asking if you want to change the TV channel. This hospitality is not just limited to ordinary citizens; even at military and police checkpoints, officers who ask to see Ed's passport end up bringing out tea and cigarettes, spending up to an hour chatting and looking at his travel photos.
Ed concludes his update with a sharp critique of how Western media and governments portray Iran. He suggests that the public is intentionally conditioned to view the country as evil so that there will be little public opposition if a military invasion ever takes place. He emphasizes that the real Iran is a beautiful, incredibly welcoming place that he would return to in a heartbeat.
“If I could choose any country in the world to basically, you know, wake up naked in the middle of nowhere with no money and I had to try and find my way back to, you know, civilization and help, it would be Iran.”
- **The "Friend's Nan" Analogy:** Ed describes the hospitality as relentlessly polite, comfortable, and constantly offering food and drinks. - **Checkpoint Hospitality:** Police and military guards regularly turn passport checks into hour-long social visits with tea and cigarettes. - **Media Skepticism:** Ed expresses a cynical view that Western media demonizes Iran to prepare the public for a future US-led invasion.
## Notable quotes > [16:15](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc&t=975s) If I could choose any country in the world to basically, you know, wake up naked in the middle of nowhere with no money and I had to try and find my way back to, you know, civilization and help, it would be Iran. — Ed March
## Mentioned Ed March, Honda C90, Suzuki DR350, BMW R1200GS, Red Bull, Persepolis, Stonehenge, Pierce Brosnan, Honda C100, Honda CG125, Always on My Mind, Buick, Behzad, Tina
## Video description This is the video update for me riding through Iran, on my journey from Malaysia to the UK on my Honda C90.
This video may be long-winded but it needs to be to truely show just how awesome Iran is!
I'm so glad I went through there and not avoid it like the newspapers and government try to make you do.
Don't forget to go to www.c90adventures.co.uk for all my other video updates, pictures and spoof comedy videos.
Enjoy
[Source](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LEgowbzSc)